Earthling789

Not knocking it, because I've never tried one... but it always strikes me as funny when the description lists "Internal 4500mAh Battery" and "Protection: Reverse Battery..." and my personal favorites... "Adjustable Power Output from 7-100 Watts" in the first line... and the next to the last lists "Can adjust from 7-50 watts" I find contradictions a red-flag in the QC department if they can't even get their spec-sheet correct...

How many more times you gonna ask this question without a response the ones you've already opened? Your other thread is generating some good answers to this same question...

Plus, the OP was asking about a "kit" (tank and battery) for under $60, not just the MOD/battery. For a good all-around kit, the Kanger Subtank Mini 50W starter kit can't be beat, and you can find them online for as little as $35. Their 75W TC MOD kit, with top-fill tank is running $50-60 online. EVIC also has some nice kits, as well, but I'm not sure on their current pricing. Nothing says you have to go with a kit, either... you can find the MOD/battery you like and match it to a good tank that you like (which is what most of us do).

Why do you want to vape? Were you ever a smoker, or do you just want to join the "cool kids" and blow clouds?

I know the feeling, Tam... in the past week, I've changed a Triton coil twice, and in the same period, only one SubTank coil... The Triton lasted maybe 4 tanks, and I pushed it through #5 despite the insanely tight draw and poor flavor... At least the horizontal SubTank coils are holding out a lot longer... averaging ~12 tanks, but I have switched to ONLY 1.2 Ohm horizontal coils or the RBA (built to 1.0-1.4 Ohm). The RBA seems to hold out very well, too? I have the original and PLUS RBA decks, and I've not yet decided which I like better.... both have their advantages. BTW, I smoked/toasted/fried a 1.5 Ohm ST Vertical coil (came with the ST-mini kit) the other day... I was vaping it at 15.5W and must have changed the Wattage when I pulled it from my pocket... it didn't like 43W very well... LOL... and it sucked too, as I had just filled the tank, so 3.5ml wasted along with a coil. I do love MODs that have a "lock" to prevent this from happening... unfortunately, the Kangertech 50W MOD doesn't have a lock

Welcome to Vapor Talk! What are you using today? Some good (and affordable) TC devices in the 40-75W range are the Wismec Presa 75W-TC ($35), Cloupor Mini Plus 50W-TC ($30), and the newest Kangertech SubBox Mini (kit) 75W-TC ($50). There are others out there, but these are the ones I have, so I'm familiar with them. I'm sure others will chime in with their favorites....

Essentially, yes... 0.2 Ohms or higher will fall within the 20-21Amp range (and lower). Breaking in coils is not a necessity, but it sure does make them last longer and taste better! Also, starting out lower in Wattage lowers the risk of burning up (destroying) "partially wet" coil/cotton, although it doesn't eliminate the chance... I've toasted brand new coils at only 12W before I think once you try a regulated MOD for a few hours, you'll put your Mech's on the shelf and let them collect dust (I did, lol)

In an unregulated MOD, Ohm's Law is the only way it works, lol... Coil resistance and battery voltage determine the Wattage (output) and Amp-draw. A 0.2 Ohm coil fired at 4.1V (fully charged single battery or two batteries in parallel-mode) will draw 20.5A (minimum) and output 84W. This is safe as long as your battery (or batteries) are good batteries and rated 20A, like the Samsung 25R, Sony VTC4, or LG HE2/HG2. Now, in series, two batteries are capable of double Voltage (8.2V), so at that power level, the Amp draw will be 41A and 336W of output at the coil Your batteries won't handle that load, and @ 336W, neither will your lungs In a Mech MOD, there's now way to "dial it down" either... It's either full on, or full off, and the Wattage is solely determined by the coil's resistance and the Voltage provided by the battery/batteries! A regulated box MOD will make your vape more consistent and controllable, than dealing with the constant Voltage drop of a draining battery in a Mech MOD. I don't own either of the two regulated MODs you mentioned, but I've heard many positive things about the Wismec rx200. @jasonculp will be along shortly to give you more info on larger box-mods like the rx200. Let me add in this as well... Wattage ratings stamped on the factory coils mean very little... I frequently use a coil stamped 30-60W (for example) at a "comfortable" vaping range around 16-18W... to me, cranking it up to even 20W gives me a burnt taste, so you MUST also consider what your juice can handle... As I like to say... just because your car's speedometer registers 150mph, doesn't mean you HAVE to pull out of your driveway at 150mph!!

The Samsung 25R is still one of the best batteries out there for the money... The Tiffany Blue ones or the new Green 25R5's are the same specs, and should be fine for your SubBox (I'll assume 50W version, but will also be fine in the 75WTC MOD). I've had a couple Samsung's go south on me in the past year, but that can happen to any Li-Ion cell... Of the more than a dozen I regularly rotate through, even the ones I purchased 18-months ago are still going strong. For me, I cannot recommend the 25R enough, although I also regularly recommend LG's HE2 and HG2 as well, but for the price, you cannot beat Samsung. I'd like to know about these as well... independent test results, etc.... to my knowledge, no battery has been independently tested to provide higher than 30A continuous discharge, so I'll assume 40A is the pulse-rate? There are plenty of other batteries out there with higher pulse-rates, and that is not an indication of of their sustained discharge or safety. Furthermore, as mAh increase, discharge-rate (Amps) decrease... it's just a fact of physics, so my guess is these 3000mAh batteries are likely 20A (or lower) continuous discharge....

When the Kanger Subtank mini came out, their 1.5 Ohm coils were "meh" to me (and their 0.5 Ohm were horrid)... but I have noticed that their horizontal coils have gotten better since they came out with the vertical coils. Either that, or the vertical coils are so bad (poor wicking, low flavor, and don't last long) that the horizontal ones "seem" better? I will agree that the Triton's coils appear to have gotten worse over time... the last batch I bought barely last 4 tank-fulls before they are toast, and the ones I bought months ago last 10+ tanks, and have better flavor through their life... so yeah, I kinda have to agree

^^ This ^^ I've tried coils built down to 0.1 (Kanthal), and I must say, these days, I prefer 0.8 Ohm as the lowest I can tolerate... 1.2-1.5 is my sweet-spot for flavor, which is what I'm after... not trying to be a freight-train, lol

9.4W is adventurous? Well, I'm not much better... I mostly run 1.2 and 1.5 Ohm factory coils, and build my RBA's to 1.0-1.4 Ohm, which means I hover my MODs between 12 and 20W for the most part No wonder you love those iStick 50W boxes... at 8W, I bet they last you 4 days between charges

Been a long week for me too, Tam... I totally empathize If Wattage is held the same, the lower resistance coil will draw more Amps, because it has less resistance. At 10W of power, a 2.2 Ohm coil draws 2.1A, and the 1.8 Ohm coil draws nearly 2.4A. The lower resistance coil will heat and cool faster, which is great if you chain-vape, so you aren't cooking the juice with a coil that stays hot longer. For a casual hit with a long draw, the higher resistance coil is better suited, IMO. Both are so close to not really have much difference in power consumption, but the 1.5-1.8 Ohm coils are a good starting point for the new vaper... Most people will use a higher Wattage with the lower resistance coil, to achieve a better vape (flavor, vapor production, warmer), so the lower resistance coil will require even more Amps (power) because you'd likely dial it up to 12-13W (if 10W tasted good on the 2.2 Ohm coil).

Looks like more than a few, Jason... you'll be making juice until the cows come home Nice to see they've gone to all glass bottles at Wizard Labs... I'm sure the flavors will taste even better now!

"Each time" Tam is referring to is each time you change coils, or change to a different juice. Lower resistance coils like 1.5 or 1.8 will require a little more power (Wattage) than the 2.2 Ohm coil you're using now. The one you're using now is a cooler coil... it takes a little longer to heat up, but is good for long draws because it heats slower. If you want a little more heat, you may want to try a 1.8 Ohm coil... most of us prefer those in the KPT2. Also, adding a Kanger air-flow-control base to your tank will give you more air-flow and is adjustable to make the vape more personalized. The bases can be found online or at most shops for $3-7, and make your KPT2 that much better! Welcome to Vapor Talk!

Received my six boxes of 1.2 Ohm horizontal SubTank OCC coils ($4.89/each) and Kanger SubTank Mini Kit in white ($34) from GearBest today... Shipped from US warehouse in NY, and still made it in 2-days despite the snow! And, here's some pics of my previous hauls... Sigelei Vr2 50W and Nautilus for the SO, and my Wismec 75W-TC (with black Subtank Mini)

I normally use the 1.2 Ohm coils, but also use the 0.5 and 0.15 Ni200 coils as well... Resistance will affect the amount of power you will use, but the juice is still the key! Despite the range marked on the coil, the juice may not vaporize correctly (ie. burn) at higher Watts. Despite any recommended Wattage, always start low and work your way up until you find the sweet-spot as described above. Some of my juices tolerate 60W @ 1.2 Ohms, but some only tolerate (taste good) at 22W @ 0.5 Ohms. You cannot go by what the coil says, or recommendations from charts or even friends... you have to adjust to suit your juice, and your tastes.

I've had this happen more than once on the new vertical coils, and one of the SSOCC as well. Despite plucking the cotton a bit, priming, and allowing them to soak for hours... I've yet to have one of the older horizontal coils give me this problem, however... First of all, what Wattage are you starting these coils out with? Some juices cannot tolerate high Watts. My all-day-vape likes 12.5-18W, depending on the tank/mod combo, but using the 1.2 Ohm horizontal coils, I can push them to 18W (after the first dozen hits @ 14W). If I'm using the vertical coils, they are toasted if I go above 15W. Your juice has limits, despite what the recommended range of the coil says. Regardless of anything... start low on Wattage, vape, bump Wattage up... vape, repeat... once you get a slight burnt taste, turn the Wattage down 0.5-1.5 Watts, and that is the sweet-spot for that juice. Once you burn cotton/coil, it is shot, and if you continue vaping with a burnt coil, or burn it badly enough the first time... the burnt flavor is transferred to the juice, and you'll taste burnt flavor even with a perfectly good replacement coil. BTW, Welcome to Vapor Talk!

Heat in the center of the tube could be the battery, and could also be dirty threads... dirt and corrosion add resistance. Take it apart, clean it well, inside and out... clean the threads with a stiff brush (toothbrush, wire-brush, etc.), and use a good metal polish/cleaner on the entire MOD. Lubricate the threads with a low-resistance anti-seize compound... or use a tiny bit of Vaseline if you have nothing else for the threads. If it still heats up after that, the battery is the most likely cause. Either get a better battery, or build your coils to a higher resistance so the Amp draw is less!

O.22Ohms @ 4.1V is 18.6A... @ 4.2V is 19.1A... (and this is assuming zero-loss of power across the MOD, which is not possible, so add a couple Amps to the overhead). The VTC5 is only rated to 20A continuous discharge (<100C), and most tests I've seen rate them lower than this. For proven 20A performance, I'd look at the Samsung 25R or the VTC4. Both are proven to perform consistently at 20A, with a margin of safety for higher loads... and the Samsung can usually be found for about half the price of the Sony, even on the Liion site! If you're not exceeding 20A with your coil, then your Nemesis Fire-button spring is likely the culprit (heating up like a coil as you make contact). I would suggest upgrading to magnetic fire-button connection, or at the very least, upgrading to a heavier spring. Also, be sure to clean ALL the threading and the components of the fire-button. Dirt can also create a situation where heat is generated.

Liion Wholesale? Yes, then it should be guaranteed authentic. So, that only leaves the MOD or the coil resistance... The quickest one to check is the coil resistance... pop it on a meter and report back the resistance you're using.

Either your Mech's firing-button spring is too weak (heating up like a coil), or your battery cannot handle the load you're asking of it. Are you 100% certain your battery is an AUTHENTIC VTC5? There is a very high possibility it is a knock-off or re-wrapped cheap-o. What is the resistance of your coil? Are you using a proper Ohm Meter to test it, or just going by the # of wraps and guessing? The VTC5 has a higher mAh capacity than the VTC4, but it is NOT rated to 20A... so I'd not build anything lower than 0.5 Ohm on an authentic VTC5, and that would be pushing MY personal level of safety.... Either way, find out what is causing the issue... coil resistance too low, battery not authentic, or Mod's firing button/spring requires repair/replace... Do this BEFORE YOU USE IT AGAIN, or you'll become another statistic the media will use to tell everyone how evil and dangerous e-cigs/vaporizers are!

^^ This ^^ Cheaper can sometimes be found from Chinese vendors, but you'll be risking items being knock-offs/clones, and you'll always be looking at LONG delivery times... anywhere from 2-10 weeks, depending on the vendor. A good way to spot if an item is a knock-off is the item description... key works like these will be evidence... "type" or "style"... Genuine articles will say "Authentic", or "Original" in the description, but even that doesn't guarantee anything, even at your local B&M shops... even they can be taken-in by knock-offs and not realize what they are selling is fake. Sales, coupon codes, and first-time-buyer discounts are available on some sites, too... so take advantage of those when you find them.

@jasonculp listed a lot of good links from a reputable site, VapeNW.com... There are also good deals from other reputable sites, such as VaporDNA.com, 101Vape.com, codevape.com, and Sweet-Vapes.com. Some people have had issues with Sweet-Vapes, but I've not personally had any problems with them for the few orders I've made in their direction. VaporDNA has the SubTank Mini (top-tank) kit for $50 right now on sale, and 101Vape runs battery sales every 3-4 months, where you can pick up pairs of LG or Samsung batteries for as little as $7. I'll also recommend the i4 or d4 charger from Nitecore... extra charging capacity is good, and you'll eventually need it, lol

Drip tips are for the most part interchangeable, if they are removable... and I'm pretty sure the MT3 clone you have does not have a removable / changeable drip tip. For tanks with removable drip-tips, you can get tips in stainless steel, brass, copper, plastic, acrylic, delrin, Pyrex, and wood. Most all of them are 510 size... that is pretty much the standard.