Earthling789

You're welcome... 0.5 Ohm shouldn't heat up a tank to "hot", but "warm" is possible if you're chain-vaping (of course, lol). If you go with a Subtank Mini, their 0.5 Ohm coils are quite good for flavor and vapor, but they are a little warm (vapor is warm) for me..., but I find their 1.2 Ohm are even better because they're not as warm on vapor production, and still have excellent flavor and vapor, moreso than the 0.5 Ohm, but that is just my opinion I almost wish they'd make a 0.8 Ohm subtank coil like they do for the Aerotank/KPT3... that seems to be a perfect blend for those that want sub-ohm, but not the heat... I've built a 0.8 Ohm coil on the RBA deck, and was quite pleased with the performance....

I agree, and call BS on that... 0-nic is ZERO... There are no trace amounts of nicotine in any of the flavorings (most are artificial flavors), and PG and VG do not natively contain nicotine! Sloppy manufacturing or cross-contamination is possible, but I'm sure you would be hard-pressed to find even trace amounts in "QUALITY" manufactured juices. You're more likely to get higher "trace" amounts of nicotine from the tomato on your salad or burger... as most fruits and veggies contain nicotine naturally!

I'm not familiar with that tank either, but @Bebop seems spot-on about airflow. What is the coil resistance you are using? Personally, I was never a big fan of sub-ohm tanks, until I discovered the Kanger SubTank Mini... plenty of coil resistances, styles, and wire-types, as well as an included RBA deck for building your own. They vape well, too. I don't do sub-ohm resistances very often, so 1.2 Ohm coils are my preference... plenty of vapor, great flavor, and no "hot" tanks (even when using the 0.5 Ohm coils)... no leaks so far either (and I have 4 of them in regular rotation and another 2 still in the box). I would also recommend the Aspire Triton V2 (top-fill), but be aware the coils don't last long. The Triton Mini is just a top-fill version of the Nautilus Mini (uses the same coils, and is same size), so I'm not even sure if they have sub-ohm coils for it? Another well recommended tank is the TFV4 from SMOK. I don't have one, but many members here do, and other than a bad batch of coils, I've not heard many bad things about them...

Sorry Peanut (always wanted to say that...), but you'll not find much help in the "trick" department here. We focus on safety, reliable equipment, flavor, smoking-cessation, oh, and did I mention SAFETY? The rigs you've listed are sufficient for producing huge clouds, and what you do with them is up to you, but please be mindful of others when not in the confines of your own home or in a venue appropriate for "clouds" and "tricks"...

Today's vape mail contained my 5 packs of 1.2 Ohm Horizontal OCC SubTank coils and 10 SS drip-tips from GearBest... (which I ordered in January, lol) - Still waiting on two Wismec Presa 40W to arrive And my order from Wizard Labs: Bubblegum - Juicy (240ml) Gummy Candy (120ml) Cinnamon ACL (240ml) Peanut Butter (120ml) Sweet-tart Candy (120ml) Champagne (120ml) Vanilla Custard (120ml) Milk Chocolate (120ml) Bavarian Cream (120ml) Two 100ml graduated cylinders Two 50ml graduated cylinders Two 100ml beakers Two 250ml beakers 500ml 100mg Nicotine in VG

From your description, it sounds like the center pin of the coil came out of the bottom of the PT3 base and stuck in the top of the battery. It may have arced and welded itself to the battery top, or possibly some sticky juice just has it held to the battery's top pin. Tam's suggestion of putting it in the freezer will work if it's wedged, but putting a little alcohol (rubbing or drinking) into a small medicine cup (about 1/4 inch of alcohol) and inverting the battery into the liquid to soak will break loose any of the sticky juice residue. Soak it for 20-30 minutes and it should be able to be removed with tweezers or needle-nose pliers. If it arced and welded the pin to the battery top... breaking it free may require brute-force

To get a 70/30 PG/VG mix, for every 10ml you make, 7ml of the composition must be made up by your flavorings, nicotine, and added PG, assuming your nicotine and all flavorings are PG-based. Check the ingredients of your flavorings to ensure they are PG-based. If your nicotine is thick it is most likely VG-based (and possibly mis-labeled?). Another thing to consider is the tank you're using... have you upgraded to a different tank or different coil resistance, compared to the one you were using with the Mr E? Flavors and vapor vary from tank to tank or even when changing coil resistances.... If all things look right... adjust your calculator to mix to 80/20 or even 90/10 to reduce the amount of vapor and increase the throat-hit. Trial and error will make the difference and help you dial-it-in... The flavorings you use will change the taste and throat-hit, even when changing manufacturers... The Flavor Apprentice (TFA) flavors will be slightly different from those made by Capella or Lorann (or others), so you may wish to try your flavorings from another manufacturer as well?

And the largest problem with these studies is that they are ran by groups that already know the results they want, and only hold the "studies" to collect the (skewed) data they wish to back up their claims. I actually signed up for a "smoking study" at the University of Kentucky once (when I was still a smoker), and after I read the prospectus on the survey/study, I laughed out loud at the researchers... Ran by the "Cancer Center", funded by RJ Reynolds, a grant from the FDA, and one of the big pharma companies (Pfizer or Merck). The study was to research the impact of certain drugs on smokers... smh.... nothing at all to do with a "smoking study"... they only wanted lab rats that smoked to test drug interactions with nicotine or one of the other thousands of chemicals so they could put something on their warning labels about the dangers of smoking while taking XYZ drug.... Something they probably already knew but needed data to back them up.

The biggest problem with these FDA studies is the fact they are using people that are cherry-picked from those that complete questionnaire forms that have horribly vague and limited questions, AND they typically only consider cig-a-likes as their study product, thus lumping all e-cig usage to (sub-par) cig-a-like results. Typical questions from these questionnaires: Have you ever tried an e-cig? (shows image of BLU or VUSE cig-a-like) Are you a current or former smoker (smoking more than one cigarette per day)? How often have you purchased these products? Did you purchase a flavored product (cherry, blueberry, etc), menthol, or tobacco? Did use of an e-cig product curb your desire to smoke? Have you ever been in the presence of someone using an e-cig? Does anyone in your family or friends use an e-cig?

I agree with Tam... you guys must be chain-vaping, lol. I run through a battery a day, roughly. Sometimes I have to swap out before the end of the day, but not very often... running 1.0-1.2 Ohm and 15-18W in my Wismec 75TC, Kanger 50W, or Cloupor Mini Plus. I gotta agree, though... that is a nice charger. If one of my NiteCore I4's ever need replacing, that LUC V6 will be on the top of my list

I read about this trick a couple years ago, and once, when I was away from home, I needed to replace my BDC and only had a BCC in my spares... so I tried it, and it worked perfectly. Now, I tend to buy BDC when I find them cheap, but in a pinch, I know I can use a BCC I still have four boxes of BCC (that I bought 2 years ago), but I've not used my KPT2 tanks in many months. I'll probably pay them forward eventually, and just stick with my Aerotanks and KPT3-minis, and only buy BDC from here on? I do like the BDC better for flavor and they have a much wider range of available resistances... not to mention the last 50 I bought were only $0.77 each, which is darn cheap!

@TAM I separated the caps to show the difference, and sorry for the bad pic... it looked better on my phone, lol

Tam, the 1.8 Ohm BCC will work in the KPT3-mini and the Aerotank mini, but unless you add a silicone cap to the shaft of the coil (upside-down, to take up the slack in height difference between BCC and BDC), they are prone to leakage. I've never had a KPT3-mini or Aeorotank mini leak when using the BDC (dual-coils) or BCC with added cap, unless I left it in the heat, and they are available in a much wider range or resistance... 0.8, up to 2.4 Ohm. The last 10 packs of 1.2 ohm BDC I ordered came from 101vape (or was it VapeNW?)... for $3.95/box, so they're just as cheap as the BCC

Nope, those are the biggies Cinnamon and Menthol are the two that will destroy a tank the quickest. You'll notice the plastic going "cloudy" rather quickly, as the juice starts to etch the plastic, eventually breaking it down to the point they crack/break/leak. Really, any fruity juices will mess with a plastic tank, but usually fruits are in a lower concentration and not quite as volatile as Cinnamon, so you could use a fruity flavor longer without issue, but they WILL eventually destroy the tank. So, if you're going to use mint, Menthol, or citrus juices... switch to a Pyrex tank

Thanks Comp, I meant to mention the EVOD-Glass, but honestly, for the price and performance, I would suggest the Kanger ProTank III Mini. They look better, break down more fully for cleaning than the EVOD-glass, and they accept the air-flow-control base from the Aerotank mini. They don't come in pretty colors, sure, but they perform better, IMO, and generally are easier to find. The AeroTank Mini is a KPT3-mini with an air-flow control base, for better air-flow control. Also, the original EVOD is a single coil (BCC), and the EVOD-glass (Pyrex), EVOD2 (plastic tank, covered by stainless steel), AeroTank Mini (Pyrex), and KPT3-mini (Pyrex) are all dual coil (BDC), which again, IMO, perform better.

EVOD tanks are plastic, so don't use any juice that contains Cinnamon, Spearmint, Wintergreen, (other mints), Menthol, and high Citrus content juices. These are considered tank-crackers. Also, CANY is correct... juices with high VG content (probably anything over 60%) may not wick well.

Yeah, I've not had experience with the newer ones... the ones I have are all versions with YiHi boards, which is probably why I've not had any issues with them. The only real complaint I have with my Sigelei boxes are they are just TOO boxy, lol... even the 50W... it's small-ish, but basically still a brick... not something I'd carry around all day, but it works well, and is perfect as a desk-top mod because it is harder to knock over, lol

I'm a big fan of IPV and Sigelei.... But, if you have the Wismec RX200, and you're looking at other 75W MODs, you may also consider the Wismec Presa 75W TC unit. It's a single 18650 MOD, small form-factor, and performs great! And, BTW, it is very inexpensive as compared to the Sigelei or IPV you mentioned

@Tam Yeah, it would be nice if they did... That's why I referred to the Triton Mini as a Top-fill Nautilus Mini (with larger air-flow)... basically, that is exactly what they are... I only wish the Triton Minis were larger in capacity and coils were cheaper! I paid $5/pack for my last 10 boxes of Subtank Mini (horizontal 1.2 Ohm) coils, and the Subtank mini will also use the Aerotank (BDC) coils just fine, if necessary.

Nope, sorry Tam... they do not I didn't realize the Nautilus coils fit the Triton Mini until I got ready to order new coils... and read the notes at the bottom of most seller's info, where they list compatible tanks. From Sweet-Vapes: Compatible With: Nautilus & Nautilus Mini Triton Mini

The Triton Mini is basically a top-fill version of the Nautilus Mini. Both use the same coils, actually. We've not had the Triton Mini long, but I do like the top-fill as well as the rugged design of it... kinda reminds me of the Subtank Nano or AeroTank from Kanger. My only real complaint is the 2ml capacity! I get 2.5ml in my Aerotanks, and they are proven rugged (and the coils are cheaper, too). As for the 1.8 Ohm Claptons, my SO has used them, and says they are pretty good for flavor and vapor production. I prefer the 1.2 Ohm Kanthal, but I like 1.2 and 1.5 Ohm in my Subtanks and Aerotanks too... For right now, the SO is using 1.6 Ohm Nautilus coils just fine it the Triton Mini, but we do have half-a-dozen boxes of those, so why buy more? right? Also, I'm not sure about the Triton Mini specific coils, but if they last as short as the full-size Triton coils, we'll keep using Nautilus coils in it... The full-size Triton coils hold out for 20-25ml of juice before they get tight or burnt-tasting... the Nautilus coils last 50-75ml, consistently!

Gotta love the drive-by misinformation trolls... I wonder if they get paid by some anti-vaping org, Big Tobacco, or Big Pharma to do this? The posts on FB are getting downright insane in both number and ridiculousness... I personally love the one where the person just got back from burying their aunt because she died from oil coating her lungs, or radiation from the coil, or whatever insanity they can think of... And, all I can think of is, Gee, this woman must have had a HUGE family, lol... a few thousand and counting, all attended her funeral

Let's hope the issue is the batteries, and be sure to get Samsung 25R (green) or 30Q (pink) batteries, and that the seller on Amazon has a good rating (99% or higher, with at least 1000 reviews - and NOT from China). Otherwise, purchase from reputable sellers such as 101Vape, VapeNW, etc... or a good battery whole-seller... read the past threads on here regarding batteries (over the past 6 months), and you'll find a huge number of links provided by members such as @jasonculp where you'll find authentic batteries, guaranteed, and at good prices. An average, good price for a 25R is about $5.50 each, so don't over pay, even on Amazon... If new batteries give the same results... that means the MOD has a damaged chip-set, possibly from water-damage, and you're out some cash to an unscrupulous eBay seller

If it is a V1 Triton, this is a known issue, where the juice-control doesn't open fully and allow juice to fully reach the cotton, resulting in dry-hits. Unfortunately, the only solution is to purchase a replacement tank section (because they are not able to be disassembled), then use your original base and drip-tip/air-flow section. Normally, a replacement tank will fix the issue... it did for me!

Glad you're enjoying your new gear!