Earthling789

I had looked up the same info directly from Smok... SS body, but no mention of anything other than Kanthal being used as coil material. This would explain why TC is not working when using the V12.

Are you 100% positive the coils are SS? Many coils are mistaken as SS because the housing is SS and stamped as such, but the actual coil material may be Kanthal, NiChrome, Nickel, SS, or perhaps a blended/woven coil like a Clapton or some of the twisted versions? Even the Kanger coils that I know are Ni200 (blue o-rings) are stamped SS on the body of the coil housing, because that is what it is made of... yet the coils are Nickel.

The "glass" tank is normally Pyrex, which is a tempered glass which perfectly fine to boil... think of your glass baking dishes or a laboratory beaker... they are made of Pyrex glass... BUT, you should boil the water, then set it aside to cool... THEN place the parts in the hot water (after the heat is removed)... allow them to cool with the water so they will not warp or crack due to extreme temperature changes. Putting metal or Pyrex in hot water should not break them, but taking them out of HOT water, into cooler air will cause warping, cracking, or breakage in extreme cases.

Once you burn a coil, the taste permeates the entire tank. The best way to clean it is to take it apart, clean with dish-soap and hot water (tap-hot)... use a brush or small sponge to get into all the crevices and don't forget the drip-tip, too. Rinse well!! Now, take a pan of water and boil it... once it boils, set if off to cool and put the tank parts into the VERY hot water... leave them there to cool with the water. Once cool, you can air-dry them overnight and the tank should be good to go. You can also rinse with rubbing alcohol after you've cleaned and used the boiling water soak, but be aware that you MUST air-dry it for a day to ensure all the alcohol is gone... or you can soak in alcohol for a few hours... then air-dry overnight, then let the parts soak in boiled water again to flush out any alcohol residue. Many of us will soak our tanks in drinking alcohol (Vodka, moonshine, Everclear, etc.) which would be safe to vape any residual that may be left, but being 17-18 years old, I would not advise it for you...

Good point Walt! I have a subtank/coil combo that runs great at 330F and 45W (0.5 Ohm Coil) on my kbox 75W mod, but switch the same tank to another mod and I have to crank it to 60W and 450F to get the same vape. I have one mod that claims TC but it only works "okay" on Ni setting with Ni200 coils... SS, Ti, or TCR settings (using the appropriate SS/Ti/NiCr coils) do nothing but apply max wattage and fry my coils before TC kicks in :(

The subvod blinks 3x to indicate a short or that the atomizer (coil and/or tank base) is not seating properly or making contact with the battery. Remove the tank and take it apart... clean the base where the coil attaches (if it has juice residue, hot water works well... q-tips are great for removing residue/juice/water... let the base dry. Re-seat the coil nice and tight, then look at the base of the tank... there is a center pin which can be pulled out a tiny bit... pull it out with your fingernail or a small screwdriver/knife/etc. Fill and re-assemble the tank. Now look at the battery... clean the center contact and threads (where the tank goes) with a q-tip, then repeat with a q-tip with a little rubbing alcohol on it... let it dry! Put it all back together and it should work. If not, then try a different coil, being careful to seat it fully (and prime it with juice).

I use Subtank minis (and the top-fill versions too)... almost exclusively since they came out with them about two years ago. I've tried others and keep coming back to the subtanks... I have a Baby Beast, which has great airflow, but I'm not fond of the coils... and it is a huge juice-hog without giving flavor on-par with the volume it churns. I use the Subtanks with 316L SS coils in TC mode most often, but also use plenty of the 0.5 and 1.2 Ohm coils in Wattage-mode, too... as well as build my own coils for the RBA insert. They have great airflow (for me), and the flavor is darn good too. The secondary reason I keep coming back to the Subtank Mini (and the smaller version, Subtank Nano) and recommend them so often is the price (and availability)... the tanks are cheap compared to many others, they last for years, parts are easy to get (bases, o-rings, Pyrex tubes), and the coils are available just about anywhere vape-gear is sold (and they have tons of style and resistance options).

Same here... fruity, tart juices tend to make a coil last way longer for me. My heavy vanilla or heavy sweet juices tend to last half as long. On my RTA's, like @Walt, I get a month or more out of the coil, but I may have to re-wick it every 7-14 days? A small price to pay for the convenience of a great vape and long lasting coil... Another thing to consider is the number of tankfulls you're going through, compared to your roommate? Sometimes, when we look at the number of days, we're compare apples to Buicks... If you were a heavy chewer, you may be a heavy vaper... a coil may last you through 10 tanks, but you rip through 10 tanks in 3 days... whereas your roomate may vape a tank a day, thus his coils last 10 days (same 10 tankfulls)?

@Walt I had a good record for not breaking anything for years... and then I bumped a 250ml cylinder with my elbow and shattered it... cracked another while washing it out (just using a bottle brush, so it probably had a defect), and the last one... I sat it down on the counter and the base broke off from the cylinder (cheaply made)... After that I figured I'd give plastic a try since I could buy 3 or 4 for the price of one, good Pyrex one.

The plastics used in good lab plastics should not be a problem with leaching... They should hold up well to the harshest of chemicals and never out-gas. I still use Pyrex for all my beakers, flasks and tubes, but I went with plastic on my graduated cylinders for two reasons... 1) VG and PG don't adhere to the plastic like they do Pyrex... 2) After breaking my third one (one while washing, two bumping over on the counter), I wasn't willing to spend big bucks on graduated cylinders anymore

I like my plastic cylinders... VG just rolls right out of them, unlike Pyrex (where it sticks like glue)

I got my latest from the VT Fire-sale... I picked up the last of the Kanger Top-box minis (a red one), and the last of the Kanger Subox Nano kits (a black one). I also picked up another Kanger Toptank Nano in black because they were cheap and I could always use another. The Subox Nano kit and Topbox mini kit will be Christmas presents Love a good sale price on gifts

Dark and sweet juices are "coil killers"... they gum up the coil quicker than others. I've no experience with the V12, but I've read others saying the coils didn't last more than a couple weeks, and will say that sometimes "bigger isn't better", but I know that doesn't help your situation. You might try thinning your juice a bit with a few drops of distilled water in each tank-full... this will help the juice wick better and prevent burning the coil/cotton due to dry hits. How do these juices do in other tanks? It may just be these juices don't like the V12? I know I have juices that work great, but only in specific tanks or a specific coil/tank combo...

What is the VG % of your juice? Are your juices very dark or sweet (like chocolate, vanilla, etc.)?

It sounds like the coil isn't making good contact in the base of the tank (try loosening the coil a bit in the cap), or perhaps the top cap is cross-threaded or not fully seating (causing the coil to not make good contact)? Overfilling them can also cause the coil and or cap to not seat fully... liquid is not compressable, and you must have a small air-gap in the tank for it to work correctly.

I pulled this (well written) answer off Reddit, where I read it a while back... I know exactly what problem you are having. I have the same unit and I run into this almost every time I refill the tank. The problem is the coil is not making a connection to the base of the unit. There's two solutions to this problem, first one is pushing down and turning the top of the unit left (basically opposite of what you would do if you were taking the top off to refill) as you rotate you will feel a series of grooves. Try stopping in each groove and firing the unit. Second one is loosening the coil a bit. I have always tightened the coil as much as possible, I realized backing out the coil just a rotation or two would make it closer to the metal base of the tank. I'm guessing it is flashing five times rapidly? If so, it means resistance too low. Which would mean you don't have the coil screwed on tight enough to the top or it isn't reaching the bottom of the tank solidly enough. That or the coil is slanted and causing the short circuit warning. The manual here says: Functions: Short circuit protection: 1, When the short circuit occurs before working, the button light flashes for 5 times and then powers off. 2, When the short circuit occurs while working, the button light flashes for 3 times before short circuit (reset). Atomizer protection: eGo AIO has a 15 second run time protection. The light will flash 10 times if the button is pressed for more than 15 second. Low voltage protection: When the battery voltage drops lower than 3.3V, the button light flashes for 40 times and the device will power-off. Charge the device to power device back on. Resistance test: 1, When the resistance at the output end is >5ohm, the light flashes slowly if you press the button. 2, When the resistance at the output end is <0.3ohm, the light flashes quickly for 5 times, suggesting the ohm is too low or potential short circuit.

Thinning it works fairly well, but you can also make a same-size batch (in ml) of 60/40 VG/PG and mix the two together. If it is a flavor you really like, that would be the way I would do it... the resulting mixture between the two would be 70/30 VG/PG

To wrap coil wire, I've used drill bits and even the ink cartridge from a ball-point pen (Zebra metal ink cartridges work great, lol)... as long as it is round and the proper diameter, and you can slide the coil off after you wrap it, you're good to go... As for wire... it is BEST to use proper coil wire, designed specifically for making vaping coils... Kanthal, Ni200, Titanium, or one of the variants of Stainless Steel (SS316L is my preference). I would be cautious of using make-shift wire from a craft or hobby store because you have no idea exactly what is in it or how it would react to heating... or what type of toxins would be released as you heat it....

Bingo! Pure water will not conduct electricity. It is the salts, minerals, and impurities IN the water that conduct electricity through the water.

If you want to mix 10mg strength pure VG juice (no flavor), then you should add 10ml of your 100mg VG-base Nicotine to 90ml of VG. If you want to add 10% water... then your juice will be 10ml Nicotine base, 10ml water, and 80ml VG... which will actually give you 90% VG (because you added 10%water to thin it), but the result will still be 10mg Nicotine strength. @FXRich is correct... Darker or sweeter juices kill coils faster than VG content, but pure VG is very thick, and you should make sure your coil / tank can handle juices that thick... most cannot wick juices with 70% or higher VG content.

Yeah, I had an IPV mini that I stripped to bare metal and then put a coat of Turtle-wax on it... it actually didn't look bad, lol... I'd show a picture of it, but it is one of the ones I paid-forward to a new vaper

I'm with @FXRich... I've only bought unpainted Aluminum, Stainless Steel, or chromed mods in the past couple of years. I have three mods that are painted that haven't chipped, peeled, or faded their coating... One is a Kanger 50W (white) and the other two are Cloupor mini-plus (orange and royal blue). The Cloupor are powder coated, so that is why they hold up so well. These mods get almost daily use for the past two years, so it's not like they sit on the shelf and look pretty. Most of the painted mods these days are Aluminum or an alloy with a lot of Zinc in them. Some are painted Brass... Zinc and Brass don't adhere paint well. One thing you can do is take the mod apart, sand the crap out of it, use a good "etching primer" to get something to stick to it, and then paint it well with an automotive-grade or marine-grade paint. (Sand between coats!) Your basic, household Rustoleum or dollar-store paint won't hold up at all. You can even top-coat it with clear-coat, but that will eventually yellow and peel from the acids in your sweat. Prime, paint, car-wax... clean and wax often... that will work, but it is also a LOT OF WORK :(

Yep, if you ordered on the 5th, they started processing on the 6th... 10 business days from there is the 20th, so that would be about right on schedule Shipping from Hong Kong will take 3 weeks minimum, and if it gets hung in customs, it could take an extra 2-3 weeks on top of that. BUT, at least you know it is on the way!

5-10 days is the time it takes them to pick the order and put it into a bag for shipping. Expect 4 weeks minimum for delivery after ordering... the usual is 6-8 weeks, and don't be surprised if it shows up after Christmas :(

Cany... Here's a quickie way to spot check... Base-strength * Base-volume / Total volume = Final strength For what you have... 24 * 12.5 / 50 = 6.0mg which is what you are looking to get, so your calculation is correct