Earthling789

The purpose of this label is to classify the product (juice) as a tobacco product so the Federal Government can list the sale of each 15ml bottle of e-liquid as a pack of cigarettes (equivalent) so they can force the tobacco companies to pay more $$ to each state, based on sales, to comply with the Tobacco Settlement Act. All of the Nicotine I use is produced chemically, not derived from tobacco plants... which by their own classification system should exempt it from any of these regulations; however, by broad classification of Nicotine as a "product of Tobacco", they ensure being able to equate any Nicotine containing product to smoking/chewing/snuff tobacco. Also, the Deeming classifies ALL e-cig equipment (which is combined in part or whole to produce vapor of a liquid for inhalation) to be classified as a "Tobacco Product"... therefore, yes, any e-liquid used in an APV by definition is a "Tobacco Product". They would classify matches, lighters, and ashtrays as "tobacco products" if they thought for a moment they could get away with it.... This is all this is... regulation to reclassify a product as tobacco to ensure the government continues to receive billions of dollars from Big Tobacco. Ensuring the 2007 grandfather date guarantees Big Tobacco as the only player in the game (profits) so they can PAY those settlement checks!! One hand washes the other... as usual in our Big Brother Government

I think at this moment, I'd call it DefCon 3... It looks bad, and while it won't go crashing down around us tomorrow, "something" will happen as early as November. I've read through the first 200+ pages, and if they get this passed/implemented as expected, the first wave of pulling things off the shelves could/should occur in November this year! Yes, there may be injunctions, and there is still a House Bill which, if passed, will grandfather everything already on the market through August of this year... lets HOPE that passes, which overrides the FDA overreach!! Otherwise, there will be a lot of "going out of business" fire-sales in October/November to unload stock, and there may not be much to pick from by then if retailers begin to reduce inventory in anticipation of regulatory action? In the meantime, I plan to pick up those TC Mods, and other hardware, I've been holding off purchasing, as well as a couple more Subtank Minis, a case of extra coils, and sometime between now and DefCon 5 (November), I'll stock up on my Nicotine base... enough to keep me in juice for the next decade I do hope the grandfather date can be changed, so the market is not stripped of existing, reliable, helpful products, but I see the FDA (backed by Big Tobacco $$ and Lobby pressure towards Congress) to really buck hard against moving the date. 2007 will put Big Tobacco as the only player in the game, and the FDA will be under zero obligation (based on the Deeming) to approve ANY product for market, which will ensure market monopoly by Big Tobacco! The FDA should be disbanded... as well as a few other "alphabet agencies"... their regulatory power is as bad as the EPA, whereas they can make arbitrary mandates which pick winners and losers in the free market, generate taxation without representation (illegal), and apply fines to punish those that aren't paying their dues (Lobby money) to ensure favoritism/protection... can we say "government organized crime syndicate"?

Yeah, there's no need to purge the bottle and refill it with Argon each time... if you transfer the Nicotine base to glass bottles, as full as possible, and store them in the freezer, they'll last a long time. The one you're "using" can be left with air in the bottle because you'll likely use it before it will go bad? The last liter I bought, I transferred it all into 120ml bottles with wedge-caps, so I'm not working with large volumes of base that could possibly go bad through Oxygen degradation... The ones in the freezer are full to the base of the wedge-cap, so they should have little-to-zero "air" in them, and should last years like that. Not to mention that "air" is 78% Nitrogen and only 20.9% Oxygen.... Considering Nicotine base in PG will last even longer in storage, I think my next order of Nicotine base will be in PG... although it will limit me to 25/75 PG/VG mixes as my max VG... but I mostly mix 50/50 and 40/60 for "me" anyway. I won't be able to mix 20/80 like some of my family prefers, but they'll have to live with it or do without

For the most part that is true... PG in the freezer lasts pretty much forever, and the lower the concentration of Nicotine in that PG means it will not go bad as fast as 100% pure Nicotine. 100mg/ml is 10% mixture, so it will degrade faster than 24mg/ml (2.4%) mixture... that is logical, but the real key is 10% is still diluted Nicotine, not pure, so it should stay viable in the freezer for many, many years as long as it is free of Oxygen, which is it's worst enemy. The shelf-life of PG is 10yrs at room temp according to most sources. VG is lower, about 5-7yrs at room temp. Nicotine is even lower, about 2yrs at room temp. Placing them in the freezer extends their life considerably... PG lasts forever, VG for decades, and Nicotine for 5-10yrs, but the catch for nicotine is it must be Oxygen-free (preferably in colored glass bottles), so placing it into smaller bottles, filled to the brim will ensure it degrades very slow, if at all in the freezer. When they say e-liquids have a life of 2-yrs, they are going by the shelf-life of the fastest degrading component... Nicotine... but the lower the Nicotine %, the longer it will last.

4ml per 100ml of juice made... so 1500ml will make you 37.5 liters of juice.... 1500/4=375 100ml bottles or 37.5 liters (9.9gal) of juice If you vape 30ml/week, that will keep you vaping for 1250 weeks, or 24 years, lol... 50ml/week is 750 weeks, or just shy of 14.5 years.... I just did the same math on my stockpile of Nicotine I have enough to make 25L, and will be ordering another batch soon, so I can have enough to keep me and my SO in juice through 100L (25+ gal).... which should hopefully outlast these insane regulations, or until we give up the need for Nicotine?

Cigalikes? yes... cartomizers? probably not even going to allow those, unless they were on the market prior to 2/15/07. There is also a provision for "child proof" and "tamper resistant" cartridges. So, new vapers won't even be able to refill refill the cartridges that will be available on the market, thus killing the consumer e-liquid market in the US, effectively. Yes @Compenstine there will still be DIY and build-your-own, but only until they figure out how to squash that avenue too. Thankfully, I have enough VG/PG/Nicotine/Flavorings to last me a couple years... and I still will have time to stock up on coils, and building materials.

Reading through this hurts my head... The FDA assumes all nicotine to be a "tobacco product", and is proposing regulations that only large companies (like Big Tobacco) can afford to weather through.... I know this is no time for panic-mode, but if this goes through as stated... the black-market for vaping will be thriving! The Fed thought prohibition was good until it brought the rise of bootleggers, organized crime, and black-markets.... just you wait...

Thanks for the info, @jasonculp .... I was about to purchase some new LG's but now I think I'll hold off for a while The few HG2's I have were purchased months ago, so I'm safe from the defective batch. Right now the vast majority of batteries I am using are HE2's, and my last ones were bought in January. I guess if I decide to get anymore in the near future, I'll pick up some 30Q's instead, until LG gets their production issues cleared up?

FXRich is on to the answer... the SMY60 will not fire below 0.3 Ohms, and if the coil is built to exactly 0.3 Ohms, as you heat it up (fire it), resistance DROPS. The moment it drops below 0.3 Ohms, the MOD circuitry kicks out a "fault". Try a coil built to 0.4 Ohms and you'll not have this issue. As for the battery, please use a quality battery rated (and tested) at 20A minimum. Here are a few tried-and-true to use... LG HE2, LG HG2, Samsung 25R5, Samsung 25R, Samsung 30Q. Be sure to buy from reputable sellers (not eBay), so you can ensure you're not getting re-wrapped knock-offs or Chinese garbage!! Safety First... and your battery is the heart and soul of your vaping equipment!

It took me several tries to get a handmade Ni200 coil I could live with... and you're right, Ni coils do have a "taste" on the initial few hits, but it goes away. I'm sure its the coating and oils from your hands being burned off? Torching them may help with that flavor, but I've heard that was not a good idea to do for Ni coils? Even the factory pre-made Ni200 coils I've bought for my Subtank Mini have a slight "taste" for the first few hits, but after that, the flavor really opens up. I really wish they pre-made Titanium coils for the mini... Ti is easier to work with, and SS is even easier than that, but most TC mods under 100W won't work with SS (correctly).

The links to the other articles were VERY informative... I've booked marked them for future reference when arguing my points

The 40W-TC recognizes (works with) any wire in VV/VW mode, but in TC mode, it will only recognize Ti or Ni200 wire to regulate temp properly. Some mods will recognize SS as Ti wire, some won't, so I'm not sure if the iStick will or won't, but I do know it will work with Ni200 wire, so changing your order will guarantee the coils will work properly.

Oops, I just saw that... the 40TC may not work well with SS coils, but they may function on Ti-mode. You might want to snag a pack of Ni200 coils to be 100% sure they'll work with this mod

YAY! I think I just set a new record, too!

Eleaf iStick 40W-TC has built-in 2600mAh battery :D... and VapeNW has them for $28.99

Oh, I can help you there... Ni200 = 0.15 Ohm and SS = 0.4 Ohm You can also use the RBA deck and build any Ni/Ti/SS coil you want :P

It took me a year to get you to try a Russian... so I guess I have to beat that record to get you try TC?

Not as much as you'd think... My Ni200 coils are 0.15 Ohm, but dialed-in for flavor, the heat is not much different (and sometimes cooler) than my 1.2 Ohm horizontal Kanthal coils in Wattage-mode. You also have the options of SS and Titanium wire, too, but to use SS, your TC mod has to work with SS, and not all of them do.

I do what I can to help, Tam! Seriously... I didn't think I'd like TC, and don't use it 100% now (maybe 25% of the time), but once you dial it in, the flavor really comes out, and it's not ruined by the heat. I think if you pick up a cheaper TC Mod (iStick, Wismec, Cloupor), you'll find a new toy, and a new love for rich, fuller flavor that you didn't even get from your HH.357 and your Triton 2... Although you should be able to get TC coils for your Triton? And don't you have a Subtank Mini, too? So, all you'd need is a decent TC mod... I got my last two Cloupor Mini Plus for ~ $25 each, and my Wismec 75W-TC was only $30...

Tam is correct... back when the only tanks you could get were CE4's and some of the simple top-coil versions like the iClear, dripping was the only way to go for flavor (and exceeding 20W or going sub-ohm), but with new tanks, different coil configurations, wicks, and resistances on the market, tanks have exceeded RDA's for flavor in my opinion. I've not used my dripper for more than testing out a new flavor mix, in probably a year, and even then, I've changed my RDA over to single-coil @ 1.2 Ohm to replicate my favorite coil in my subtank mini or my favorite coil configuration in my Russians. Even my older Russian 91% RTA's have superior flavor over my RDAs, but obviously less vapor production. TC gives me even better flavor, and allows for a cooler vape, too, which I do like. It seems I get far better flavor if I can remove the heat which is generally an issue with any flavor over 30W or below 1 Ohm, and TC is the way to get that "full" flavor without all the heat...

Thorazine ( Chlorpromazine): Chlorpromazine is an anti-psychotic medication in a group of drugs called phenothiazines (FEEN-oh-THYE-a-zeens). It works by changing the actions of chemicals in your brain. Chlorpromazine is used to treat psychotic disorders such as schizophrenia or manic-depression, and severe behavioral problems in children. It is also used to treat nausea and vomiting, anxiety before surgery, chronic hiccups, acute intermittent porphyria, and symptoms of tetanus. While Thorazine is "sometimes" given to treat chronic hiccups, it should not be the physician's first choice because of it's side-effects and chemical alterations of the brain... Furthermore, vaping is not known to CAUSE chronic hiccups in vapers.... Hiccups are caused by the irritation of the Phrenic Nerve (which regulates the diaphragm, and breathing). If vaping is causing hiccups, it could be an allergic reaction to something in the vapor, which leads me to ask... WHAT IS HE VAPING?

I have several mech Mods, but don't use them any more... actually not used one in over a year. I always liked a regulated device after buying my MVP 2.0 (a month into vaping), but I actually tried mechs (and dripping) for a while... it just didn't appeal to me as a go-to daily thing. Jason hit the nail on the head with a mech, and that's the battery being constantly less power from each hit to the next. I liked my RTA @ 3.9V, so a fresh battery was a bit harsh, and once I dropped below 3.9V, it was time to change the battery again, lol. A decent VV/VW device was far better (and consistent) for my vaping style, which is mostly tanks, RTA's, and yes, the occasional bout of dripping. I can't offer more for achieving a "thicker" vapor, but having good airflow, drawing slower, and exhaling slower seems to provide thicker vapor for me, even on my daily rig (Subtank Mini with 1.2 Ohm coil and 18W, 30/70 PG/VG). Slowing down the draw seems to be the real key for me to increase the thickness (volume) of my vapor cloud?

VG is what makes vapor... PG is a flavor carrier and makes VERY LITTLE vapor on it's own. Now matter how you build a coil, with max PG, you're looking at poor vapor and heavy throat-hit. My personal favorite for RBA/RDA is Kanthal, either single strand or twisted two-strand. I tried Clapton coils and didn't care for them either. I've tried Ni200 for TC, and they were okay, but Titanium is better and SS316L is even better still.... for TC devices anyway.

Once again, FXRich is right... for better clouds, you need more surface area (and airflow, too), which is achieved by using lower gauge wire, which gives you more wraps. There is a point where you can have too much wire, though... which is why I believe Rich suggested 24ga wire over 20ga? Type of wick (Organic cotton, Japanese cotton, square, round, braided, twisted, etc.) can also make a difference, as well as micro-coil vs macro-coil (micro have coils squeezed together, macro allows spacing between coils). I've gotten great clouds out of a 0.5 Ohm build using 24ga macro coil and Japanese organic cotton... moreso than going lower in my resistance... plus the lower you go, the hotter the vape, which I do NOT prefer! You kinda have to play with your set-up... coil wire type/style (single, twisted pairs/triple/quad, Clapton, tiger, etc.), gauges, resistance, spacing, wick material/thickness... to find what works best for YOU. One last thing to consider is many people you see on youtube that are billowing massive clouds are also using PURE VG with no flavorings, for maximum cloud. Any PG, water, or flavor will reduce the amount of cloud possible, when compared to pure VG in your rig. Personally, I can't vape pure VG as it tastes like sucking on a hot glycerine bar (or brings back memories of my mouth being washed out with hand-made soap, by my grandmother, lol).

FXRich is right... most firmware updates aren't reversible. This is one reason I never update firmware on anything until after I see how it affects others first, lol. Jumping/dropping 0.1W isn't a horrible thing... yeah, it shouldn't do that, but I would report the "bug" to Wismec and hopefully they'll release V3.10.1 or 3.11 soon, which will fix those issues? On a personal note, I've been considering an RX200 (for the battery power/longevity), but keep talking myself out of it because I rarely go above 30W, and every mod I have is capable of those outputs... and when I want to go higher, I have several mods that do 75W+, including TC mods, so I have no real use for anything that exceeds 75W I'll probably pick one up on sale, though, someday, lol