Earthling789

The consensus seems to be 20-30ml/week about the norm, give or take a few ml on a bad week, and as long as you're not chasing ginormous vapor clouds, lol That's good to know!

Sweet! Good info to have... now the VTR is tops on my list of next battery MOD purchase, since I have two KPT2, and one each of the KPT3 and AeroTank! I doubt I'll actually "carry" it in my pocket, but would be nice to have something pocket-sized for quick stowing to have your hands-free, or something that will fit in my vest or chest pocket of my MC gear (upright, without an "antenna" to worry about)!

Speaking of what fits IN the VTR, rather than ON it (with adapter)... Does the Kanger ProTank 2, PT3, or AeroTank fit properly in the VTR, or do they require the adapter? I'd really like to get a VTR for it's compact, pocket-size, but I'm not a fan of the iClear 30 tanks that come with them, other than the swivel drip-tip that is...

Since switching to vaping and completely tossing my analogs (48 days ago, and counting)... I found it didn't take me long to find a couple of favorite flavors and my preferred nicotine level - 18mg. Now that I've found my favorites and not "experimenting" with strange flavors and different nicotine levels, I've leveled my e-juice usage to roughly 20-25ml/week over the past 3-weeks. 25ml was the high, and total use for the past 3-weeks was two 30ml bottles and about a tank-full left-over in a 10ml bottle... so about 68ml used during the period. I also use BCC and BDC tanks about evenly at the moment, and I realize dual coils burn a bit more juice... I just bought 360ml of my favorite juices - 180ml of Sweet Cuban (Cuban cigar mixed 4:1:1 with Vanilla and Black Cherry), and 180ml of my favorite candy treat (Dark chocolate, peanut-butter, and caramel, mixed 1:1:1). I expect this order to last me 14-16 weeks. I know it's a matter of personal need for the nicotine, flavor, and the act of "puffing", but since I smoked a carton a week for 30 years, honestly I feel that my e-juice intake @ 18mg of nicotine seems "light" compared to my previous nicotine intake with analogs (Swisher Sweets Little Cigars, full flavor, PLUS a Churchill size Maduro wrapped Cuban-seed cigar per day). But I guess my body and mind are getting what they need? And, if I dropped to 12mg of nicotine, I'd probably increase my e-juice intake, although that is my next step! So, my question... is 20-25ml/week about "normal", less than most people, or am I hitting the tank more than most? In other words... What do you use a week?

Yeah, with pressure changes, I would assume tanks would leak a bit, but a good reminder to seal them in a ziplock or pack them empty. I don't think I'd have enough guts to vape on the plane... my luck my tank would leak profusely and I'd be seated next to an Air-Marshall TSA at my local airport is probably the worst I've ever experienced... The rivets and brass button on my Levi's once caused a "private search", so I only travel in jogging suits (with plastic zippers) now, lol. Depending on where I'm going and how long I'd be gone, I'll likely only be carrying my eGo-style batteries, a couple of tanks and a few small bottles of juice... but if I'm going to be gone for two weeks, I'll want to take my MVP, larger tanks, and plenty of juice Thanks for the tips... I guess if all the e-juice is in an approved-size ziplock, and the batteries / tanks are secured in my backpack, I shouldn't be too worried about strip-searches....

^^ NICE ^^ Where did you get it? That would be perfect for carrying a week's worth of supplies!

3.5V on a 1.5 ohm dual-coil should be pulling 8.2W, which is within the sweet-spot for your battery. A 2.0 ohm coil at that Voltage should pull 6.1W, and that is still within the operational limits of your battery. I have no suggestions on the function issues you're seeing. If the battery is charged fully, based on the Voltage setting you're using, everything should be fine... unless of course the coil has died. Have you tried another coil? Have you tried higher Voltage settings? Say 3.7 - 4.2 range, especially if you're using a 2.0 ohm coil? As for the tank leaking issue... coils are the usual suspect, but I had a ProTank 3 mini leak because the upper/lower rings were not screwed tightly down on the Pyrex tank. This created an air leak (minor one) that allowed the vacuum seal to break, and the wicks were able to constantly wick juice and drip it down onto the battery contact... eventually flooding the entire tube (overnight). This was a horrible surprise on my first hit of the morning I took the tank apart, cleaned it, checked all the o-rings, assembled it snug, replaced the coil and not had a leak since then.

I've not had this issue yet, but I frequently travel for business, and I was wondering how the airlines (TSA) are with vaping equipment and e-juices in carry-on or checked luggage? I know some airports don't think twice about shampoo and toothpaste, but freak-out if they see some liquid in a bottle that does not appear to be personal-hygiene-related... or go nuts over something that looks like a barrel (like an eGo-style battery would). Has anyone had experience going through TSA checkpoints with vaping equipment or e-juices, and could lend some helpful hints on how to properly pack them... and what to expect from TSA?

I picked up my MVP 2.0 kit w/iClear 30 tank for $40... so $90 seems way overpriced, even for a B&M shop. Even the ones I've seen online are in the $39-49 range. I didn't think I'd like the "box" form-factor either, but it's quite nice in your hand, really... and the battery lasts for days! The only complaint I've heard is that the button is stiff and takes some effort to push, but has not been a real issue for me, personally. You can also get "wraps" for them, and change the look from the basic blue/black/steel. Oh, and the newest versions/styles of the MVP is called "MVP 2.0 Energy", and they have one that looks like Oak wood (with matching tank), and they run the same prices as the standard blue/black/steel MVP's... just a thought, since you mentioned you like the wood-look... The spinners are excellent batteries, too... so I guess it will boil down to what you want to spend and the portability factor... the spinners are lighter and take up less space, obviously Some people vape for years only using eGo-style batteries and one style/brand of tank... nothing says you have to move up to larger MODS or APV... which is what makes this so great... kinda like your choice of car, you don't have to have a Ferrari, when all you "need" (or want to spend $ on) is a Ford... both will get you where you want to go, and nobody will ever dog your choice... because it is what works for YOU....

When I'm out and about, I'm carry my spare eGo battery and at least one Kanger mini tank with a spare 10ml bottle of something tasty (along with spare charger, q-tips, etc) inside my small eGo case. I carry a fully-assembled eGo unit inside a re-purposed plastic tube from a Garcia & Vega Double-Lonsdale cigar (roughly 6.5" long and 18mm diameter). On the motorcycle, the eGo case fits perfectly into the leather case on my tank-bib or in my tail-bag. If I have to go into the office, the case is in a large front-pocket of my laptop backpack, and in the car, the case is generally in the storage pocket under my armrest or the pocket below the stereo (depending on which car I'm driving). The assembled e-cig in the cigar tube fits perfectly next to my checkbook or cellphone in my larger jacket pocket, or my main MC riding-jacket has large "pen-pockets" with elastic loops which are almost made for it. This way,it stays upright and is well protected (and the tube is leak-proof in the event of catastrophic tank failure). When I'm in the car, my "active" unit is sitting upright in a $3 silicone "cell-phone cup-holder" I bought at the dollar store. The round unit has a cut-out for a cell-phone and two ink-pen holes, which just fit an eGo-size battery... and the whole unit fits nicely inside one of my cup-holders, without being too tall to be in the way, and my vape is always handy, without having to hold it or have it rattle around loose in a cup-holder. I've not had to think about longer trips (than day-trips or weekend), but I think for those, I'll be looking to invest $10 in the cosmetics case from Walmart that Compenstine suggested on another thread.... all metal and has elastic loops for eGo batteries/tanks and a large net pocket in the lid... and a carry handle too Add in some foam and I think this would be an excellent solution for carrying "more" of your stuff.

I'm beginning to lean this way as well. The BDC's produce a slightly warmer vape, but they use more battery, burn juice faster (obviously), and tend to make more noise. Vapor production on the dual's is a little better because you're pulling more juice, but I'm not after huge clouds.... The single coils also seem to last a little longer, but that might be my imagination, too

I upgraded to the Innokin MPV 2.0 kit for $40 at my local retailer. It came with an iClear 30 BDC (dual coil) tank, and it is okay, but I prefer my Kanger PT2 or AeroTank with it because they seem to produce a better tasting vapor and decent volume (but no smoke-screens, lol). I'm not after huge clouds, only taste and satisfying my nicotine needs without having to light-up an analog. I know the feeling about dropping $200 on an expensive MOD, but the MVP would be a very reasonably priced upgrade. If you're looking for a MOD with a replaceable battery, the VTR or VAMO will be a "next step up", and still reasonably priced, but still have limits on their Voltage/Wattage capabilities. I have no experience with the MODs that produce insane Wattages, because I can't afford them, lol. But, I've seen some massive vapor clouds produced by people using a decent tank/coil combo and an intermediate battery (like an MVP or Vamo). Also, from what I understand, pg/vg ratio also has a lot to do with vapor production, but I'm sure someone else will be able to provide better insight to e-juice ratios as they relate to vapor production.

My genuine 1100mAh batteries charge in about 3 hours, give or take, using a 420mAh charger, but my 950mAh clones seem to take forever... I've seen them take 6 hours to reach full charge, even if they are far from dead.... So, it really depends on the quality of battery too.

I've bought several things from eBay, including tanks and coils, without any problems. You just have to read the descriptions carefully (checking for genuine, sealed products, not clones), check feedback, and "tread lightly". A lot of B&M shops also have a presence on eBay, so I look for those as well. To the OP, if you paid with PayPal, you are covered for a refund if the seller does not refund or replace defective merchandise, but you only have a limited time to make a claim after the auction ended. If you recently received them, let the seller know of the problem and ask for a refund or replacement.... especially if they were "genuine coils", or advertised as such! Receiving a defective item sucks, I know... I recently ordered an AeroTank from an online vendor, and received a factory-sealed defective unit (missing center pin on the base). The retailer shipped a replacement same-day... before I could even have a chance to return the defective one... so some sellers will work to make it right.

If I'm not mistaken, I saw the Kanger Aerotank Mega has two tanks in the package, one Pyrex, one stainless steel? I've also seen the stainless replacement tanks available for Kanger minis and standards, but at extra costs, not included. I was thinking hard about the SS options for my minis as they are my "traveling" tanks, and I know it's only a matter of time before I drop one on concrete!

I made the mistake of ordering several 30ml bottles of 12mg juice a couple of weeks ago, when I wanted 18mg, so I re-ordered the same exact juices in 24mg and mixed them 1:1 in empty 60ml bottles, as Compenstine suggested you do... the nic level is now at 18mg, and the flavor did not suffer at all. Bonus points that I now have double my juice at the perfect nic level, so I won't have to re-order for a couple of months! As Tam indicated, and Compenstine implied, mixing anything with unflavored nic juice would "water-down" the flavor... like pouring 12oz of water and a12oz cola into the same glass...

I started out with a single eGo-T 950mAh battery and Ce4 clearomizer kit from my local retailer ($20 w/ free e-juice starter). I picked up a second "kit" so I could have an extra battery, tank, case, bottle, and charger. I wasn't fully excited about the disposable clearomizers, so I quickly picked up a pair of bottom-coil "tanks" from Kanger (mini ProTank3's), and then added in two more 1100mAh batteries, so I could always have batteries ready to use. From there it ballooned to an MVP 2.0 kit and larger Kanger tanks (two ProTank2, a ProTank3, and an AeroTank - and was gifted two mini ProTank2's). I stayed with Kanger because I liked the fact that I only had to keep up with two coil types (single or dual). I bought all of my tanks but one (not counting the ones that came with kits, or the gifts) from eBay, and paid less than half retail prices. The two 1100mAh batteries also came from eBay ($7 shipped for the pair). Just be careful buying from eBay, and make sure you're buying "genuine" items. BTW, my local retailer is/was selling clone batteries and claiming them to be genuine... so be careful even at B&M stores. If I had to do it again, I would have approached things differently, and my advice to anyone with a budget of $100 would be to pick up a pen-style battery "kit" with two batteries (eGo-style, twists are nice), two disposable Ce4 tanks, case, and charger... (The Kanger EVOD kits are nice too, as well as the Innokin LEO kits).... you'll use those daily and are very portable for work or in the car. From there, I'd add in an MVP 2.0 battery and a package of iClear's replacement coils, or if you prefer another tank brand, buy one or two of those and a 5-pack of coils at a minimum. With a twin-pack eGo-style kit under $25 from most online sources, MVP starter kit for ~$40, and additional tank/coils for $15-30, you're under $100 for enough equipment to keep you vaping for a LONG time!

I built these as a reference/guide only. The graph and charts are based on Ohm's Law calculations and the physical limitations of the MVP 2.0's circuitry, which limits Voltage and Power (Watts), presumably to increase the battery's life-span, and to prevent stress damage or catastrophic failure. From what I understand from all the reading I've been doing, the battery is capable of MORE, but the device's internal circuitry is what limits Voltage/Wattage minimum and maximum to maintain operation within "safe" limits; thus increasing it's effective life and functionality. This makes good sense, because if you look at the Voltage chart, running a 1.2 Ohm coil at 5.0V would produce/require/draw 20.83W of power (and 4.2Amps), which the battery is capable of, but could not be healthy for the battery, coil, or possibly even the safety of the user.... I did not take the time or effort to run extensive metered tests against every Coil Resistance and every Voltage/Power combination. There are several metered analysis on YouTube already (trust them if you will), and the few I've viewed show Voltage/Power readings to be very close to the calculated values, at least for standard-production Coil Resistance they were testing. Perhaps one day I'll invest in a VTR (and maybe a VAMO) and run physical tests against different batteries... I too would like to see the difference between high-end batteries and cheap-o's... But at this time, I don't own a VTR or any replaceable-battery-MOD.... although, I have high hopes for Christmas

I've had mine for less than a week, and loving it! I switch back and forth between BCC KPT2 and BDC KAT, and both perform perfectly. Just like Charlie said, you generally have to bump the Wattage up for BDC tanks, but only a notch or two, plus different e-liquids will vape differently and require different settings. I like the rotating drip-top of the iClear30, but I'm not loving the very airy draw... personal choice, I know, but you asked for an opinion I generated some charts/graph showing the power/voltage settings compared to different coil resistances. You might get some useful info from it... You'll see from the charts how different settings affect Voltage/Power combos... I hope it helps you out.

MVP 2.0 w/ KPT2 and Aerobase or BDC AeroTank (home) For portability, I like my eGo-T w/ KPT3minis @1.5 Ohm or KPT2minis @2.0 Ohm I haven't decided if I prefer the single-coil or dual-coil tanks yet, but I've got plenty of time to decide before I'm out of coils for either one My all-day vape is my home-blended Cuban cigar with a little vanilla and fruit (or bubblegum) for "sweeteners" to cut the dry hazelnut aftertaste. My treat vapes are grape-bubblegum, wintergreen, apple-pie, or home-blended "Reece's Cup" (chocolate/vanilla/peanut-butter).

Based on another thread's discussion regarding the Innokin MVP 2.0's Voltage and Wattage limitations, I thought I'd post this up as a separate thread. Hopefully, it will help people out when choosing / selecting which Voltage / Wattage settings will properly function with their choice of Coil Resistance. This graph shows the Power-curve across the range of Coil Resistance and useable Voltage of the device: As you can see from the graph, there are some telling limitations of the device... being that (based on Coil selection), there are operational highs/lows or minimum/maximums for Voltage and/or Wattage, regardless of setting selections. Simply put, regardless of Voltage or Power selection (mode), based on the resistance of the Coil you are using, there are thresholds where the subsequent Voltage or Wattage minimum or maximum cannot be exceeded. Based on excessive selections, the device will default, up or down, to the closest Wattage (if in Voltage-mode) or Voltage (if in Power-mode) within it's operational parameters. Examples: A 1.0 Ohm coil will only fire at 3.30V in Voltage mode, providing 10.89W of power, or 11.0W in Wattage mode, using 3.32V maximum A 4.0 Ohm coil will only fire at minimum of 4.90V, up to 5.0V, and can only operate at 6.0W to 6.25W (max) A commonly used 1.5 Ohm coil cannot be operated at a Wattage setting below 7.5W, or exceed a Voltage setting above 4.1V A 2.4 Ohm coil will operate from 3.8V (@ 6.02W) to a maximum of 5.0V (@ 10.42W) or Wattage selection range from 6W (@ 3.79V) to a maximum of 10 Watts (@ 4.9V) A commonly used 2.2 Ohm coil is capable of operation from 3.63V through 4.92V, allowing for any Wattage selection Coils ranging from 1.9 Ohms to 2.2 Ohms are capable of operation at any Wattage setting of the device, but NOT all Voltage settings No Coil resistance is capable of operating across ALL Voltage settings without exceeding the minimum or maximum Wattage capabilities of the device Chart legend for charts below: RED numbers are outside the physical, operational limitations of the device, regardless of setting parameters higher or lower (example: A 1.0 Ohm coil set at 5.0V cannot physically fire more than 3.32V due to 11W maximum power restriction) BLUE shaded areas are within the physical, operational limitations of the device GREEN shaded areas are a middle-ground, sweet-spot of the operational parameters (not too high/low, but should not be considered "optimal" settings) Here is the chart which shows operational Voltage of the device, based on Wattage/Coil selection: Here is the chart which shows operational Wattage of the device, based on Voltage/Coil selection:

I have a "generic" 420mAh charger that came with my original kit, and it behaves the same way as yours... solid red, then blinking red/green, then blinking amber/green, then finally moving to solid green once the charge is completed. I thought this was "normal" operation... UNTIL I bought my second kit... The generic charger only behaves this way ONLY when charging my 950mAh batteries. When I charge my 950mAh batteries on the charger that came with my larger batteries (also a 420mAh charger, but not generic), they do the exact same blinking-routine, most of the time...but not every time. The 1100mAh batteries charge like they should on EITHER charger... solid red > solid green (when charge completes). My only explanation/guess is that the 950mAh batteries are clones and not genuine JoyeTech/Vision batteries? The 950's work, and don't get warm or hot while charging (although they take forever to charge), but I never charge them "unattended" because I don't want any surprises... I also plan on building a shielded-charging-station for them, just in case any of them have explosive discharge or decide to leak in the future. What I can say about the 950's, even if they are clones, is that they seem to last as long as they should during use, but charge one up and put it in the rack for a few days and it's charge is constantly dwindling away... completely dead in a week or so. The genuine 1100mAh batteries can sit for a week on the shelf, with negligible loss of charge.

I have Kanger BCC and BDC tanks, and use both styles (mini's, PT2/3, aero)... at the moment, I'm starting to lean in the direction of BCC because they tend to burn less juice and produce nearly the same vapor/flavor, at least on the juices I'm vaping, but mostly because they are easier on the battery drain! Fortunately, I've got more than a dozen of each coil-type still unopened, so I don't have to decide quite yet Maybe I'll just learn to build my own and save a ton of money that way? Hey, I'll have plenty of the bases to work with, right? I haven't dropped any cash on Aspire (yet), so don't count me in with "everyone", lol

Funny! In all seriousness, I've always had issues with cartoonish or childish advertising on adult-specific or "deadly" products... As for the OP's post... I agree there's a lawsuit waiting to happen because I'm sure Quaker Oats (Pepsi is their parent co) is not manufacturing e-liquids (at least not yet)!

Well, I've not heard anything back from Innokin yet, but I didn't expect to get a rapid response either. I know several OHM charts have been posted on here in the past, and there are several OHM's Law calculators out there, but I thought it would be interesting to see a chart based solely on the MVP 2.0 capabilities... so I made these while bored at work this morning They read fairly straight-forward... anything with RED numbers is outside the capability/ratings of the unit. Everything in the BLUE is within the device's capabilities, and those in GREEN are what I deemed to be the Sweet-Spot (3.7V - 4.2V or 7.0W - 9.0W) The first chart is showing Wattage outputs based on Voltage selection and Coil Resistance being used: The second chart is showing Voltage outputs based on Wattage selection and Coil Resistance being used: The last graph shows the Wattage curve based on Voltage selection and Coil Resistance. You can see from the graph, IMO, 1.5/1.6 Ohm coils, up to 2.4 Ohm coils have the greatest range of functionality with the MVP 2.0... and the most versatile coils being 2.0 or 2.1 Ohm coils, which is probably why Innokin supplies 2.1 Ohm rated tanks with the kit?.... but again, just my opinion: