Earthling789

@Tam The office I use to work at tried that crap of "not in your personal vehicle, while on our property", but 500+ employees reminded them that we can park in a city lot (a mile away), and walk or take the bus to work, and let the homeless or circus set up tents in "their" parking lot... or all quit... They saw the light and backed off, but they were pushing for more totalitarian control... no smoking in your car, no eating your lunch in your car, no weapons in your car, and the most egregious of the list... random inspections of your car (interior/trunk) while on their property... which is a total violation of our Constitutional Rights! This state drives me nuts sometimes... The whole of the state is mostly conservative, yet they keep electing Utopian Totalitarian Nanny-state Hippie Dems/Liberals/Socialists into the state and local governments... and then complain all day about how their rights are continually eroded If I were there, you'd better believe I'd be in the front row... citing my 4th and 5th Amendment rights, and telling the school administration to take a long walk off a short pier!! My property insurance agent recently came out and told me I had to cut down some trees because they posed a threat to the house if they fell... okay, I can see that... but 3-weeks later another guy came out to see if they had been removed... and then proceeded to tell me that I had too many cars in my driveway... the couch-style bench and two chairs on my porch didn't "look good", and that the English Ivy growing up one side of my house didn't "look good" and could be a "potential fire hazard" or "could push the house off the foundation"! Ummm... it's my property and if I want 20 cars on blocks in the driveway and yard it's MY BUSINESS (BTW, the six vehicles and three motorcycles in my driveway all RUN and are driven regularly... I have 4 drivers in my house!), and I reminded him he worked for the insurance company, not Better Homes and Garden nor was he a Botanist... If English Ivy were a hazardous plant, every University and government office in the US and UK would lay in ruins! If they try any crap with my policy, I'll be happy to find another insurance company Crap like this is why I'd NEVER live in an area with an HOA, lol... I'd be the guy with a bright pink mailbox and a Camaro on blocks in the front yard... just to piss them off...

The SS 0.5 Ohm coils are good for Temp-control, but if you're going to use Wattage-mode, the SS coils may be a little warm for you, so I would suggest the 1.2 or 1.5 Ohm Nichrome coils for Wattage-mode use. The 40W-TC mod from eLeaf has a built-in 2600mAh battery and doesn't support SS coils for TC mode (only support Ni200 coils), and I've no experience with them. Their 50W mods are strictly Wattage-mode. So... If you're looking for a mod with TC-mode that supports SS coils, I think you'll need to look at something different, and I think you'll have to move to a higher-power and slightly more expensive mod to find one that supports SS coils in TC mode. Sorry, I don't have a list of those that support SS in TC mode

Great article @Tam... I read it full-length, and felt all warm and fuzzy I'll be sharing it to many people today, including my congressmen and representatives... and forwarding a copy to the brass at the FDA! As for hospitals and corporations outlawing/banning tobacco use... I find it to be a pile of sh*t... Your employer should have the right to fire you if you are doing something that will impair your function (drinking on the job, doing lines of coke in the bathroom, heroine on your luch-break, etc.) but studies on tobacco have NEVER proven it impairs you while using it... furthermore, Nicotine is a stimulant like caffeine, yet most employers provide coffee for FREE to employees all day, every day! All of this boils down to the CONTROL and paranoia created by the the Nanny-State, and ultimately, the ACA. Tobacco is bad, therefore Nicotine is bad, therefore Nicotine use in any form is a bad thing (because Nicotine is apparently the only substance in leaf-tobacco, right?), so you must be a smoker and you're endangering your health and the health of those around you through second-hand and third-hand smoke. You must be fired because you are a danger to yourself and others! Sounds insane and asinine, right? Well, that's the logic of our "betters".... My employer requires us to submit to an annual physical and blood test in order to garner (up to) $1500 discounts on our health insurance. If you don't take the physical, you don't get the discounts... if you fail the blood test (find nicotine, alcohol, drugs, etc) you don't get a portion of the discount (for Nicotine use). If you test positive for drugs/alcohol then you can be fired (or forced to rehab). However if your cholesterol is 2000 (yes, you'd be dead if it were), you can still get full discounts?!? Fortunately, my doctor (when filling out my insurance forms) won't list Nicotine, even if found, on the forms if you're a former smoker and current/fomer vaper... He is a former smoker too, and knows that Nicotine is NOT the problem! Actually, my most recent physical and blood test showed Nicotine to be at the "background" level anyway... no more than if I had just eaten a baked potato and salad with tomato and eggplant in it.... At a town-hall meeting with our governor and a few state representatives a few years ago... they were discussing taxes and budget for infrastructure, etc. ... I spoke up and asked the question regarding tobacco taxes and the illogical stance of "tobacco free society". I was rebuffed and asked to leave (by security) when I posed the question... "I understand it is the goal of this administration to see tobacco use at zero, yet you continue to raise, and rely heavily on taxes from tobacco products, and I see from your budget proposals that you have earmarked several million dollars of the budget to be covered by these taxes... so I ask if your goal is to ultimately rid the state of tobacco use, why are you planning your multi-year budget to rely so heavily on tobacco taxes? Why are you taxing tobacco products at all, if you don't intend on receiving those tax dollars in the very near future?"

For the SSOCC coils... I prefer 1.2 Ohm, which are Nichrome (as well as the 1.5 Ohm coils), and never had any issue with burnt lips, even with higher Wattage and/or short drip-tip. The SS versions (with pink o-rings) are really good for Temp-control, but not great for Wattage-mode. I prefer SS for TC, over Ni200 coils. The Claptons are meh... again, my opinion, lol NAME OF COIL WIRE MATERIAL COLOR OF SEALS AVAILABLE RESISTANCE WRITING ON COIL MODE NiCr Nichrome Red 0.15, 0.5, 1.2, 1.5 NC Wattage Ni200 Nickel Blue 0.15 Ni Temperature SUS316 Stainless Steel Pink 0.5 SS Temperature/Wattage Clapton Kanthal Black 0.5 Clapton Wattage

Yes, the kits are the Subbox mini kit (sorry for the confusion) found HERE... for $29.95, so they've gone up a buck or two since I bought my last one. They are really good kits for the price, and the reason they've gone down in cost is because of the higher power 75W, 100W, etc. kits that are out now, as well as the top-fill versions (Toptank mini and Topbox kits). I have them in all colors, and two of the white ones. The toptank kits are similarly priced, and they also have them in TC version with the 75W mod for a few bucks more... but if you're only looking for a VW mod/tank combo that works... the subbox kit is the one I'd suggest. I personally prefer the 1.2 Ohm coils... good vapor and flavor without being "hot", and most of my juices like 12-20W of power, so you don't run down a 2500mAh battery every few hours... actually, I get about a day out of one before having to swap-out. You may like the 1.5 Ohm coils? The 0.5 Ohm are okay, but to me, they wear out fast and are a bit too hot for my juices... I like flavor, not heat, lol I've been using one of these kits since they came out over a year ago, and my original one is a little banged and scratched, but still works great! I've been using the subtank minis (have 10 minis, and 2 nanos) as my daily-drivers for well over a year now, and if I didn't trust or like them, I'd not have over 200 coils for them, waiting their turn in a box My ONLY issue with the 50W mod is that you cannot lock the screen/buttons... so you can accidentally up/down the Wattage if you're not paying attention. Other than that caveat, they're a winner in my book. The Triton minis are nothing more than a 3ml top-fill Nautilus... they use the same coils as the full-size and original mini Nautilus... they just have more airflow than the original Nautilus (but not a lot more). The full-size Triton2 is a better tank, uses better coils, and has way more airflow and capacity (5ml). I'm not sure why they named the Triton mini after the Triton... it's a top-fill Nautilus mini (not a smaller Triton)... nothing more... Patricia, it just dawned on me... you have subvod kits... so you've been using the younger brother to the Subtank mini already... the Subvods come with Subtank NANO tanks, which are a 1.9ml version of the Subtank Mini, and uses the SAME style SSOCC or OCC coils. They will even work with the RBA decks that are sold separately (or come with the subtank minis), but you lose some capacity if you use the RBA. Yes, the Protanks and Aerotanks will work on the battery that came with your Subvod kits... I have used my Aerotanks on my subvod battery several times. Just like any eGo-style battery, the center pin may be pushed down, preventing contact? Turn it off (5-clicks), then pry the center pin up a bit with a flat-head screwdriver or similar device. I'm guessing the reason they're not working on your batteries is that the subtank nano and Melo tanks have a slightly longer 510 connection and have pushed the pin down on the battery

The Triton 2 Clapton is just a Triton 2 with Clapton coils (that come with it). I think they are 0.5 Ohm. You'll want to get a Triton 2, which comes with 1.8 Ohm coils and ignore the Claptons if you aren't interested in sub-ohm... OR... buy that one and pick up a couple boxes of the 1.8 Ohm coils. The 1.8 Ohm are quite good and produce great flavor and vapor, even with 50/50 juices. Also, don't let the Subtank mini fool you with the name... I use 1.2 Ohm coils all day long (and love their flavor/vapor), and they also have 1.5 Ohm coils as well, so you don't have to sub-ohm with that tank either. For the price of a Triton 2 tank, you can pick up a 50W Subtank mini kit from several sites (Sweet-vapes had them around $28 last time I bought one), so you can get the tank, RBA deck, and a 50W single-18650 mod all in the same box. Some of the kits also include spare drip tip and spare glass and/or o-rings as well.... Just a suggestion

The Pico will only fire a 0.05 Ohm coil in TC-mode... which is a bit more than just "what Wattage?"... I would start at 350F and work my way up (or down) from there to see what works best for the juice you're using.

If you liked the Protanks and Aerotanks, I'll assume you will also like the Protank 4 or the Subtank Mini. Like Tam, I do like the Triton2, but I like the Subtank mini a bit more because they have more coil options! And, they have a top-fill version (like the Triton1 and 2), which is called the TopTank Mini. The Protank 4 is also a top-fill tank. I like a 1.2 Ohm coil, so while I like the Triton2 design and size, if I want a 1.2 Ohm coil, I have to build one on the RBA deck Also, the Kanger coils are usually a bit cheaper and last well beyond 30ml of juice before they need changing. Occasionally, I'll get a coil to last through 60ml of a lighter, no-so-sweet, juice The Triton2 and Subtank mini variants work better, in my opinion, on a VW battery-device, so you can fine-tune the power for the best vape according to your juice, but you can use them on a static-voltage battery (like an eGo) just fine. These tanks are larger than your KPT2's and Aerotanks (18mm)... The Tritons and Subtanks are 22 or 23mm, but also hold 3.5-5.0ml of juice, rather than 2.5ml.

Both the Samsung 30Q and LG HG2 are 3000mAh, but to me, the Samsung seem to last a tiny bit longer... but it may be my imagination If it were me, I'd buy whichever was cheaper, because you can't really go wrong with either

I've been running the 2500mAh Samsung 25R2, 25R5, and LG HE2 for quite some time in my single-battery rigs... I've recently made the switch to 3000mAh batteries just for the life-span (and they were the same prices or close enough to their 2500mAh counterparts), and like @jasonculp said... the Samsung 30Q (pink) are just as good as the LG HG2 (brown)... and cheaper, usually..., and I also believe the Samsung last a bit longer... I also like the color too As to life for each battery... I've not mapped it on a spreadsheet, lol... but I generally get most of a full day from a HE2, the same or "all-day" from a 25R (the green 5's are newer tech and last a tiny bit longer than the blue 2's)... and get a day-and-a-half from the 30Q or HG2. Also, I don't run dual- or triple-batteries in my everyday rigs... and my normal vaping is 15-20W using a Subtank Mini and 1.2 Ohm coil...

I've ran the 0.15 Ohm Ni200 coils on my Subtank mini and Toptank mini without issue of heating up. I did find my juice preferred around 390-deg, so it's not far from your juice, but even juices that like 450-deg, there was no heating-up of the mod or tank. I've not tried the SS coils (with pink o-rings), but run 1.2 Ohm Nichrome without ANY issues, even running higher Wattages from my single-18650 mods. I'm not sure why it's getting hot... and I'm assuming your mod is getting hot, which is a cause for concern... the RX200 shouldn't get hot unless you're running max wattage or really high amps (low ohm coil), and even then, warm would be how I'd describe it. Could your batteries be at the end of their life, or perhaps not genuine name-brand batteries?? Bad batteries would explain more, than an issue with the tank or coil, but then again... strange things happen

Don't go too hard on the Bavarian Cream... it can make it taste bitter if you over-do it I'd add in another 1-3ml in 1ml shots to see how it does... Also, Bavarian Cream will get stronger after mixing...or you'll taste it more after a day or two... so what tastes good right after mixing may be too strong after it steeps a bit?

That Dark Double Chocolate is quite dry and bland... I have used it a couple times and the only way to "creamy" it up was to add equal parts chocolate and Bavarian Cream, and even then it was still "dry" tasting. Have you tried Vanilla Custard in the mix as well? It will often sweeten and add a different dimension to chocolate, especially dark chocolate. This is one reason I like to use Milk Chocolate for my recipies with chocolate... if I want the Dark Chocolate flavor, I'll add it as an addition (about half or less than the volume of Milk Chocolate I use), and then I'll also add in Vanilla Custard and/or Bavarian Cream as needed to soften the flavor.

Like @Adversarious1 I don't mind paying more for premium/quality... I'll pay $60+ for a good bottle of Scotch for relaxing and sipping, but a $20 bottle of Jameson is perfectly fine for "poker night". The same holds true for my juices... I'll drop a few bucks for something top-shelf, for my personal pleasure/enjoyment. That being said, I wouldn't lower the price of Black Label to match prices of low-quality house-brands, just to be competitive... people do expect to pay more for quality, and gladly will pay more if the quality is true quality (not perceived quality). Now, would I buy more of it, if it were $15/30ml, compared to $30/30ml? Umm, YEAH! But I also wouldn't be pushed away or "looking for alternatives" if it were $20/30ml either...

When I use to buy locally, my favorite shop sells (after tax) 30ml for $11, 60ml for $20, and their premium brands (like Mad Alchemist, Suicide Bunny, etc.) generally run $22-30 for a 30ml bottle. I use to buy 240ml at a time, every four or five weeks, and would spend $64-80 every trip in the door, depending on coupons, sales, or earned loyalty points . I made a recent trip into the shop to pick-up a door-prize, and I checked out their juice prices... they've not changed since I started vaping, but at least they offer 120ml bottles now for $35 (house brand, single-flavor stuff, but only in 80/20 PG/VG). When I bought online, my costs would range from $7-15 per 30ml, without bulk discounts or coupons. Shipping is the real drag for online juice purchases... you have to buy ~ 240ml minimum to really break-even for prices. Many of the "basic" juices I would buy online, after shipping was added in, it was just as cheap (or cheaper) to buy it locally.... unless of course I was buying a couple dozen bottles or had a coupon code Which is why I started DIY... for the cost of two months worth of juices locally, I can buy supplies to make 6-10 months of what I want. Now, I DIY, and mix what I like, how I like, when I want... and have saved hundreds of dollars (probably more than $1500) over the past couple of years!

Bebop is right... the older Provari won't fire below 1.0 Ohm, so they won't work with any of the sub-ohm coils you have (or want to use). I have a couple of the Subtank Nano's, and neither has ever leaked unless it was my own fault... doubled-up o-rings, failure to fully tighten a coil, hot car, etc.... I've been using them for more than a year (along with Subtank Minis) and both have been real troopers with the 1.2 Ohm coils. One thing to check on those OCC coils is for "extra" o-rings on the base... I've found several with two or more o-rings attached, which means they won't seal properly (and will leak like a screen door on a submarine). As for the KPT2 (single-coil) and KPT3/Aerotank (dual-coil) coils... I'm quite familiar with the "newer" OCC versions not lasting as long... the older ones with silica wicks would last for weeks, but the newer ones peter-out within 20ml of liquid (about 7-8 tanks) on a good week Since price is a major concern (sorry to hear about your job ), the last 1.2 Ohm BDC I picked up were < $3/box from Sweet Vapes or 101-vape, but I'm sure they were on sale or clearance? Have you tried re-wicking them or rebuilding them (the horizontal versions are fairly easy to re-wick)?

Welcome Louis.... Glad you've joined us! What kind of rig are you vaping on? We like to know what everyone has (so we can be envious, if it is something new/cool, lol)

Spydre... the V1 Tritons had issues with leaking and "failure to flow juice to the coil". Tam's original Triton V1 was a mess... she sent it to me so I could break it apart, lol... which I did... and found it is pretty easy to screw it up without trying, so the juice-control-ring won't properly engage juice-flow. I bought a new "tank section" for the base, and it has worked like a charm since then, with only one leakage instance, but that had to do with a hot car, unattended for an hour The V2 Tritons don't seem to have those issues, and @Tam has been using a couple in rotation for about 8 months, as best as I can recall? The Crown seems to be a pretty good tank... I don't have one, but I believe @jasonculp and several other members use one daily and for the most part they all have great things to say about it.

You hit the nail on the head... Law are supposed to be written to protect us from each other... not from ourselves... The "Nanny-state" has been running amok for FAR too long!

I forgot to mention the new Top-EVOD tanks... they still fit the Ego-style batteries, slightly larger, top-fill, and are Pyrex glass, so you can vape fruits and mints without worrying about cracking the plastic tank. Also, if you like what you are using, you can thin your juice.... a few drops of PG (or distilled water) in the tank (then shake well) will dilute it and thin it out nicely without altering the flavor too much (if at all). Pure PG can be bought online or at most any pharmacy, and distilled water is available by the gallons at any grocery.

You can switch to a hotter coil... say a 1.5 Ohm? Or, better yet, switch to a slightly different tank. The T3D is a work-horse, but still as single-coil, and a small one at that. The Kanger ProTank Mini 3 is the same size, and uses a dual-coil... which are available in many different resistances... 0.8, 1.2, 1.5, 1.8, 2.0... and will give you more variety in coils, while still keeping with the same eGo-style 3.7V battery. Upgrading to a Variable Voltage eGo battery will give you more control too. Furthermore, it might be time to upgrade to more modern mods (variable Wattage)? You can still run them low power... which I like to point out... just because your car can do 100mph, doesn't mean you HAVE to do that pulling out of the driveway You can run a 200W mod at 10W... no laws will be broken, lol. Also, newer tank designs far out-pace the older T3D designs!

For 1.2 Ohm, usually 6/5 wraps of 28ga or 9/8 wraps of 26ga on 3mm mandrel.... I like a larger diameter (2.5-3.0mm) for better wicking of 50/50 or thicker juices. I think my last one was 7/6 wraps (3mm mandrel) of 28ga for dead-on 1.4 Ohm on my Russian 91%? Which was perfect for my Chocolate Raspberry juice For my Subtank Mini RBA deck, 3mm works well too, but I've found 2.5mm and a macro-coil (coils spread out a bit) seems to vape better.

I've got a couple of really dark juices too... and yeah, they rip through coils, compared to my clearer or very light juices But, I've found that if I use dark juices only with my RTA's, and like @Tam stay above 1.2 Ohms with my builds... I can usually get a week or more before I have to re-wick and clean the coil. The coil itself can hold out 4-6 weeks if I dry-burn and re-wick about once a week. If I use a pre-built coil... my 1.5 Ohm coils (12-15W) can last about 10-days on average (if I can re-wick them, I can get about 3 weeks before tossing them or fully rebuilding them). Lower resistance coils don't last as long with dark juices....

Welcome Gunny! I think you'd be best served with a Wismec RX200S. Yes, it uses replaceable/rechargeable batteries, but you have major advantages by using them... first, you don't have to wait for it to recharge (meaning you can't vape while it's charging)... second, you have the advantage of using high-end batteries (like LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q - both 20A, 3000mAh - LG HE2 are also good 20A batteries, but lower capacity at 2500mAh), which will keep you vaping for a couple days on a set of batteries... thirdly... if the Li-po pack of a built-in-battery mod goes bad... the mod is useless... with replaceable batteries, you just buy new ones if they go bad One thing to remember when using multi-battery mods... LABEL the batteries (A1, A2, A3, B1, B2, B3, etc) so you can keep them "married" as groups, and furthermore, change the position of the batteries each time you change a set... so the same battery is not always in the same position in the mod. They'll last MUCH longer that way. You'll also need a good charger... I suggest a NiteCore or Lucfest, four-bay minimum, and a 6-bay preferably. Get two when you can, so you can charge multiple batteries at once, so you'll always have batteries ready! As for tanks... there are dozens of good ones. You mentioned the Kanger Mini... so I'll assume Kanger Subtank Mini? It's a great tank (I have many of them, and love them), but not really a "cloud beast" tank, but do produce satisfying vapor even when using 50/50 mix juices. Something more like the TF-V8, or even the TF-V4 would better suit you, if you just want clouds? If you are okay with building coils, the sky's the limit so to speak, when it comes to tanks, rebuildables, hybrid, etc., and you can get exactly what YOU want out of it that way!

Those non-refillable (throw-away) atomizers pre-date the 2007 cut-off... they're basically the same as the old 808 cartomizers (the disposables used by BLU/VUSE/etc.) in form and function, so I doubt they had any need to file PMTA's for anything they're selling. On a side-note, I'm sure the tobacco and menthol flavors are 90/10 PG/VG and taste like dirt-filled wet-socks, lol... "Proprietary" mixes are probably blended or approved by one of the tobacco companies? And if you think about it, they WANT all e-liquids to taste bad and produce little vapor (and cost a fortune, and work poorly)... if they fail to keep you off analogs, you'll be running back to RJ Reynolds (or any of the Big players) as fast as you can, with open wallet... In other words... you nailed it... it is political and financially motivated... in favor of the Big Tobacco Lobby and Big Pharma Lobby. Since e-cigs evolved to what they are today... Big Pharma's sales of Chantix, patches, gums, and those little nicotine-puffers have been tanking HARD.