Earthling789

I just call 'em like I see 'em, lol... and you're welcome!

Hey, I bought mine for $40, which is less than half what a VTR, charger, and a couple of good batteries will run!! Oh, and they come in this thing called "variety"... not just Jungle Camo and fingerprint-magnet Although a VTR will be my next MOD... if I don't pull the trigger on a Tesla first, lol... but I'm holding out for the next versions... I'm hoping they will release them this fall or winter?

I'm running 950 mAh and 1100 mAh batteries, and the 1100's will last all day plus some, whereas the 950's just can't make it all day. I've not picked up a new spinner yet... and I'll probably be ready for one by the time the V3's come out, lol Love my MVP 2.0 for sitting around the house or working at my desk... that thing is a work-horse, and will last 2-3 days on a charge!

I'd worry far more about my kids or animals getting in to my raw juices, than any nicotine they'd pick up second-hand from my vaping... which is why all my juices are kept on a higher-shelf in my office... away from the dogs and any young children (not that any are running through my house these days). Like I said, I've no proof on how much nicotine is exhaled, but knowing what I do know about absorption rates of nicotine in the body... it has to be very little. Second-hand smoke does contain a lot of crap, but even the CDC and FDA don't list nicotine as a major by-product of second-hand smoke (it's way down the list), so I'd worry far less about vaping around little ones than smoking around them... by comparison. I'm not advocating doing it, just saying I'd worry less about, compared to smoking.

Yep, I use my eGo-style/EVOD batteries with a ProTank3 mini tank when out-and-about... when at home, I use my MVP box-mod more than anything, simply because it has more "life" for a couple day's of vaping before re-charge, and my slim batteries are good for a full day, maybe a bit more.

Yeah, Tam's right... smaller batteries look more "normal" with a smaller tank... ProTank2 mini, ProTank3 mini, EVOD, EVOD2, Davide mini, etc. Basically 1.5-2.0 ml size tanks fit best, so they're not top-heavy.

Water, water, water... and then more water... you'll feel MUCH better Yes, the battery will not matter for the coil, single or dual... what matters is Ohm's Law... The higher the resistance of the coil, the lower the wattage (power), considering the Voltage of the battery to be constant @ 3.7V (standard battery). For a eGo-style battery, the sweet-spot will be 1.5 or 1.8 Ohm coils. 2.0 work well too, but anything higher gives weak vapor/flavor, IMO, due to lower power

Interesting... the bottom-thingy... sad, but I know what you're talking about I use both dual and single-coils, but my daily-use tanks are single-coil tanks... and they vape a bit cooler, yes, which is good since I tend to chain-vape while working I've been buying my dual-coils in bulk, so they are only a tiny bit more expensive, and although they burn a tiny bit more juice, the added flavor/vapor production (to me) seems worth the extra expense. I just don't use them with my all-day juices, to cut down on expense... if that makes sense?

The jury is still out on that one, but it could be determined quite easily by getting someone to exhale a few times into a gas-chromatograph and simply measure it... but that would be too easy for our government nannies to do Seriously, if you worry about it, don't do it, and you'll sleep better at night. It's that simple.... One thing I can tell you is that vaporized nicotine is absorbed quickly by the soft-tissue of your mouth, tongue, throat and lungs. My best (scientific/medical) guess is that the vast majority of nicotine from each "hit" is absorbed by the body, and VERY little makes it back out into the atmosphere on exhale. Also, if your kids eat tomatoes, eggplants, cauliflower, green peppers (and scores of other fruits/vegetables) they are ingesting natural nicotine (in very small quantities).... Nicotine is a naturally occurring insecticide, produced by the plants, themselves... perfectly natural, perfectly safe, perfectly NORMAL!

I'd love to get my hands on a couple of the older Davide's, before they changed over to using Aspire coils... I've got enough single-coils to hold me over to NEXT summer, and really don't want to invest any more money for another tank/coil type Gee, I think we just hijacked this thread

I tried that in an AT before, but they leaked. Taking one of the silicone caps from another coil, and flipping it upside-down sealed the gap caused by the shorter coil, and let me use a single in it just fine. Yeah, the dual-coils cost a bit more and burn a tiny bit more juice... but it's not bad since I mostly use my KPT2's as my daily tanks.

Yes, dual-coil... I've not tried a single-coil like the full-size, but I don't think they'll work because the center-tube barely sticks below the bracket... and the full-size has a longer bit of tube below the bracket, which allows you to flip another silicone gasket upside-down to seal over the tube.

EVOD is plastic tank, plastic tip, and single-coil (cheaper) EVOD2 is plastic tank, removable metal tip and dual-coil EVOD2 Glass is glass tank, removable metal tip and dual-coil Dual-coils burn a tiny bit more juice per "hit", and produce a tiny bit more vapor... they're also a bit more expensive (50% to 100% more cost). The EVOD2 Glass are basically the same as a ProTank3 mini, with the difference of a metal shield around the tank on the EVOD version, and the PT3 mini is capable of full disassembly

Yes, the EVOD2 and EVOD2 Glass have stainless tips, and are removable. The plastic tips on the EVOD are not removable. EVODs are single-coil, EVOD2s are dual-coil. Either are great tanks, but I like the Glass versions better because you don't have to worry about what juice you put in them I can't provide links for any because I've not looked for any lately, but I know I've seen both the original Kanger EVOD and EVOD2 kits in many different places... just be careful of the ones from eBay... unless the shop is very reputable (read the reviews), you may end up with clones / knock-offs. I've seen authentic kits range from $25 all the way to $45, depending on the site. Be cautious of the ones that have EVOD and MT3 in the description... chances are good at that point they are clones.

I've not tried it, but I've tried other "cola" flavors like Mt. Dew, Dr. Pepper, Cherry Coke, etc.... and they all tasted like garbage to me... then again, it may have been the brands I tried, or the fact that I have very discerning taste-buds for drink-flavors? Root-beer was probably the closest, but it was closer to dum-dum suckers than the actual drink flavor. Honestly, taste is subjective, so what I hate, you may love... it can't hurt to give it a try, but if it were me, I'd try to find a B&M with samples before I'd drop big bucks on a bottle.

I went out for a little ride today, and stopped by a sidewalk sale at the local mall... mostly to snag a fresh lemonade, lol... Apparently a new vape-shop has opened up at the mall, and they had a few mods out on the tables, and their prices weren't horrible. I didn't see a Magneto, but the Tesla M1 (Copper), and M5 (brushed Aluminum body w/ Copper rings/rods) really caught my eye! Maybe one day soon I'll pull the trigger on one of them? I had looked at the Tesla Lava(?) VV/VW before, and wasn't impressed with the look/feel of them, and for the money, I think the VTR would be a better choice (for me) on a VV/VW device, but the Tesla Mechs are really nice designs.

Well, skin-effect has more to do with frequency degradation over distance, and less to do with an actual "skin" or coating. The patina (or paint or other coating) add resistance, just like any insulator on a wire, but that resistance is negligible for what we're talking about (again, short distance and large area). Patina, or any insulator may cover the upper surface, but always remember, directly below that layer is "clean" Copper, which now becomes the "outer" layer, whether it be outside where you touch, or inside next to the battery. Patina is oxidation which forms over the outer layer and is microns in thickness... and is always there, even after you clean it... and the build-up of it, to where it is visible does not fundamentally change the outer-layer (or internal) conductivity of the Brass/Copper. So, yes, enjoy the beautiful patina!

Yeah, you nailed it for hollow cables... they're just not "practical" for everyday use. But rest-assured that a little patina on your MOD will not adversely affect it's performance, because beneath that patina is still unencumbered Copper, capable of conducting electricity! Yes, oxidation over miles may reduce the ability to conduct by tenths of a percent, but still, we're talking about a few inches in length, more than an inch in diameter, and 3-4" in circumference?? (That's a lot of area) And, if patina were a real problem, painted or coated MODs would have even more issue, right? Like I said earlier, your biggest point of failure will be your contact-points... patina is negligible, and the weathered-look should be enjoyed, at least I enjoy the look of good patina on Brass and Copper

Lubricating the o-rings above and below the glass tank makes sense... I had a KPT2 that leaked first time I tried it, right after cleaning, right out of the box. When I disassembled it and inspected everything, I found I had damaged the o-ring at the top of the tank by over-tightening it. A little juice would have helped that "slide" instead of grip-and-rip. A new o-ring fixed the issue, and now I'm much more careful when assembling tanks... actually, I may even start using a q-tip with a drop of juice as a lube-applicator from now on... It can't hurt...

Well, due to what is called "skin-effect", electrons do move faster along the outer skin of a conductor, but that movement is not restricted to only the outside edge, and patina will not stop that flow, as it is essentially an insulator. Think of any conductor (wire, strip, plate, etc.) as a water-hose, and the water is electricity... water uses the whole hose to move, just like electricity uses the whole wire, but even water moves faster along the outer edge of a column, due to resistance created inside the column... electricity is very similar. I think what he is referring to is "skin-effect", but this has far more to do with signal degradation of frequencies, such as audio and video, and occurs over GREAT distances (hundreds of feet, or even miles) to degrade high-frequencies. This is not an issue when we're talking about 6-inches of MOD length, and not when your talking about movement of electrons from negative to positive along/through the body of the MOD's (primarily) Copper tube, where frequency is not a factor. I've seen solid Copper cable, non-insulated, completely covered in thick, green oxidation, still conducting power just like it did when it was new...

DC current flows from Negative to Positive, along the path of least resistance... yes, electrons will flow along the outer edge of the metal, but not ONLY along the outer edge... and even if this were true, there are TWO, distinct outer surfaces... the one you touch, and the inner-wall. Patina will not conduct electricity, as it is oxidation... think of it as insulation on a wire, which does not prevent a wire from conducting electricity, it actually increases it's load capacity. When looking at the thickness of your MODs wall, think of all the molecules of Copper that are contained within that width... Electricity will flow from molecule to molecule, across the entire thickness of the wall, not just the molecules along the outer surfaces. Bottom-line, his statement that electricity is ONLY flowing along the outer edge of the MOD is incorrect.... otherwise, power wires would be thin-walled tubes, rather than solid-core or stranded wires, because there is far more surface-area in a tube than a solid strand, and per cubic-inch, solid and stranded wire conducts the same. Since solid-core and stranded wires of the same gauge conduct the same, clearly the "surface only" flow concept is already incorrect, as there is a lot more surface area in stranded wire cables than the same gauge of solid-core! We only see more stranded wire cables because they are more flexible and less subject to breakage than solid-core cables.

Electricity 101... Electrons flow in the path of least resistance, just like water. Just like a Mag-light flashlight, the negative side of the battery contact makes the contact at the base of the tube, and conducts the electron flow along the tube... not the painted outside, not the coated inside, the whole tube. Patina, just like paint on the outside of a Mag-light, does not affect the flow of electrons in the least. The flow is (and will be) directed along the path of least resistance, which will utilize the entire tube, just like house-current utilizes the WHOLE wire. Patina is on the exterior surface of the tube only, and even heavy patina is only hundreds of thousandths of an inch thick (which is why it can be cleaned off so easily). It does not penetrate through the whole wall, like rust, and does not have any significant impact to electron flow. Clean contact points are FAR more important to good power flow. EDIT: I guess I should also point out that Brass is technically a Copper/Zinc alloy, and sometimes has other metals to make it more resistant to extreme weather (naval brass), etc. Copper is extremely conductive, Zinc... well, it does conduct electricity, it's not nearly as good as Copper or Aluminum... Most of the Brass MODs are 60/40 or 70/30 mixes, and the really reddish colored ones could be as high as 80/20. The more Copper content, the better they are at conducting electricity; however, even with a 50/50 content, there is more than enough Copper to "spider-web" conductivity of electricity from one end to the other. Highly desired Brass, which will not patina as quickly, and will hold up to the "elements" better than most are Naval Brass or Admiral Brass... which contain 1-2% Aluminum or Tin (respectively), which makes them far better for use around salt-water, and thus hold up well to the oils and salts in your hands. Brasses that patina faster (more greenish blue colored patina) have higher Copper content. Most of the patina I've seen in MODs are likely 60/40 mixes or 59/40/1 (with added tin or Aluminum), and have a very pretty dark-blue-to-grey patina.

Fancy or simple, expensive or cheap, decorative or plain... it makes no difference as long as it works for you. Many people on here are quite satisfied with an eGo-style VV battery and a few tanks they like. You just have to decide what you want, try it, and when you find what you like you're in good shape! One thing I will say, from personal experience, is that you suddenly will find yourself spending more on vaping gear than you did on smokes Fortunately, for me, I found my "happy-place" and started actually saving money in month #3. I'm one of those that have a few batteries, one MOD, and yes, 15 tanks (along with a ton of atomizers and cartomizers), lol Juice is your biggie... you may get lucky and find your "one" quickly, but the quest to find your favorite flavors, vg/pg ratios, manufacturer, etc. is part of the fun....

Welcome to the club! Hand-to-mouth satisfaction is one of the hardest things to kick when you stop smoking... glad to see you've found a better alternative to satisfy those cravings, instead of going back to smoking! As many on there will tell you, Nicotine is not the enemy, but since you know you no longer crave the nicotine, sticking with 0mg is fantastic!

Grailhunter, you sound a lot like me... a few months ago, I couldn't tell you the difference between an eGo and an Eggo, and I thought an Atomizer was something to spritz purfume but all the info and friendly assistance on here has really helped me to define and refine my vaping needs. If not for the folks here on this forum, I'd still be buying over-priced knock-offs and weak juices from the local B&M, or I'd be back on analogs.... So, I'd like to join you in saying, "Thank You!" to everyone... for your support, your knowledge, and your friendship!