Earthling789

I've built several out of scrap wood lying around... My current tank holder is a 5"x5"x1" piece of pine with holes slightly larger than the 510 connection and spaced roughly 1" apart (which makes a grid of 16 holes) for holding tanks on my desk. Here's a few pics of ones I've bothered to take pics of (made from spare closet doorknobs) One I made for a former member here

Fasttech makes sense... as well as some of the other sites that list counterfeits... But I'm at a loss on VapeNW because all the Kanger products I've bought from them have verified "authentic". I've bought plenty from 101Vape as well, but I think the last Kanger products I bought from them were KPT2's, lol

If you were smoking 20-30 cigarettes a day... you should probably stay at 1.6% (or even higher) a while longer, before dropping to half that Nicotine strength... It takes your body 2-3 months to fully clear from all the toxins that cigarettes put into your body, and even longer for you to shake the "habit" of smoking AND the addiction to Nicotine. Staying at a higher Nicotine strength longer, and stepping down SLOWLY by 0.2-0.3% every few months will make it much easier for your body to tolerate.

It's not quite that simple to say there are X-number of puffs to either an analog (cigarette) or a milliliter of e-liquid. Everyone is different. When I smoked, I smoked cigars, which could last for hours... I've seen some people hot-box a 120 cigarette in 4-5 drags, and seen some people take mouse-hits on a standard length and seem to make them last 10-min. As for e-liquids, nicotine strength compared to what your body is use to (along with the equipment you're using, coil style and resistance, airflow, etc) could make a 10ml bottle last a few hours, or a week. There is not a direct correlation of e-liquid volume to analogs, which applies universally. When I first started vaping... a 30ml bottle (or 18-24mg Nicotine strength) lasted over a week (7-10 days), which is about how long a carton lasted for me, also... Today... I can rip through that same 30ml in a day (with zero nicotine) if I'm really trying... or I can make a 30ml bottle (with 6-9mg Nicotine strength) last two weeks.

I snagged a couple of the U20's from an Amazon flash-sale back before summer... best $20 ($10/each) I think I've spent this year!

I'll chime in a little help here... As everyone said earlier, the simple solution is to use your Nautilus Mini on the new mod, switch it to Wattage-mode, and use somewhere between 9-12W, which is probably what you were using on the old iStick 30W? This is the simplest solution and you'll be happily vaping the same as you were before the iStick 30 died. There's no need to sub-ohm or use TC-mode unless you want to, which leads me to this... When you drop resistance of your coil... you also have to lower your Nicotine strength by roughly the same ratio. For example, if you were using a 1.8 Ohm coil and 8mg Nic strength, and want to use a 0.8-1.0 ohm coil... you'd want to drop your Nicotine down to 4 or 5mg. Dropping from 1.8 Ohms down to 0.3 Ohms is a major drop... (over 80%) so you'd want to drop your Nicotine level down to 1 or 2mg to prevent harshness and to maintain your "normal" Nicotine dose-level (Nicotine absorbs faster into the body as it gets hotter). You'll also want to increase your VG ratio to 30/70 PG/VG as a good ballpark for sub-ohm vaping.

Ugg, did that last night... 30-min away from the house... dead battery... back-up mod also had about 20-min left in it... YES, thankfully, I have a U20 in the console to charge them up while we spent an hour plus in the restaurant My fiance had just put a fresh battery in hers, and didn't bring her backup... and she wasn't about to share, lol

^^ This ^^ Exactly! I've Paid Forward (almost) all of my unwanted or excess gear, and made lots of people happy. I have sold a couple of pieces, but they were new-in-package and at greatly reduced price! It makes me happy to do so, too, when I can... especially for someone in need or for a smoker that is wanting to get away from analogs, but has no idea about vaping .

That's me... for $17 it may be a good PIF tank if I don't like it, but like you I have several tanks and mods still in plastic wrap that I've not even touched since they arrived at my door. I'll use them eventually, or sell them for a profit someday?

I'll assume you're using the 316L SS coils since you listed 0.4 Ohms... But, like all coils (and juice), vaping is subjective to YOUR tastes, so I would recommend starting at a lower Wattage, say 15W... vape, bump up the power in 0.5W increments until it tastes better, and once you get a burnt taste, back off 0.5W... then you can fine-tune it in 0.1W increments (up or down) until you find what works best for the juice you are using. All juices will vape differently in different tanks and coil combos... what works great at 20W in a Triton with 0.4 Ohm SS coil may need only 16W in a Subtank mini with a 0.5 Ohm SS coil... or it may need 24W? It's all subjective to your tastes and the juice, so start low and use the trial-and-error approach. BTW, usually once you burn your cotton, the flavor of "burnt" may never go away until you change the coil, dump the juice, and clean the tank

I'm soooo glad I don't live in CA, and I really feel bad for those SANE people that still live there and have to live under this rainbow and unicorn batsh*t crazy SOB...

In Germany (and the EU), their air-freshener propellants can ignite (if concentrated and in a confined space). Our overlords in the FDA / EPA have rendered our air-fresheners to anemic propellants which aren't flammable... which is also why they don't work as well, nor do they last as long as they did 20-30 years ago. They've been trying to do this since the 80's, even going so far as to devise little devices and cow-diapers to capture and monitor the methane and some even refine it into "harmless" gasses such as CO2, which now they say is what is killing the planet (Al Gore, paging Al Gore and his silly crusade...), yet every 3rd-grader knows every leafy-green plant on the planet NEEDS CO2 in order to survive (and create O2 as a by-product, for us to breathe) *shakes head* California government (the tree-hugging hippies they are) would regulate the number of breaths you are allowed to take daily, if they could... According to the state of CA, living is the leading cause of death, and they've determined that no one should be allowed to live

The solar charger would work, but it would be slow, and would rely on "good sun" to be effective. A cloudy day and you're not going to get any love from it. The inverter should work WELL. I have a small one (that plugs into the 12V power port) which I've used to power my laptop and it does that just fine, so it should be able to provide ample power... my only concern is when you say "hook to the battery"... if it is one that uses clamps, that will not be safe/secure enough to use when driving. If it has screw-posts or a way to secure it directly/permanently to the battery, that would be better, but I would make sure it has a way to cut the power (switch of some sort, inline or on the inverter) to be able to turn it off so it won't drain your battery when you're not actually running the engine

Yes, 5000mAh should get you a couple days at 30W Or, at least a day if you chain-vape like crazy, lol... I'd snag two if I were you, so you'd have one to vape while the other is charging... or at least carry a couple of other backups that you can use while the iPower charges. Personally, I just carry several extra batteries when I travel, swap them as needed, and charge them in the evening (at the hotel). You say you don't have a 12V charging plug in your SUV? That's not a huge issue, as you can easily add in a 2A USB plug (many of them look like factory plugs once installed) for about $10-15 and buy a Nitecore U20 charger... it's like the d2, but connects via USB, rather than standard AC plug (although you can use a AC/USB adapter). They work best if you have a 2A or higher USB outlet, and are fantastic chargers... I have two, so there is always one in a vehicle or my travel bag. They're worth every penny of the $15 each I paid for them on Amazon As for tanks, yes the Toptank mini or the original Subtank mini would be good. They have good airflow for lung vaping, hold ~ 4ml of juice, the coils are not "expensive", and I've yet to have one leak that wasn't MY fault... left one in a hot car and I failed to fully seat a coil in the base once

If the landlord weren't your mother, I'd say vape what you wanted, when you wanted... it's not "smoke" and it's not a combustible cigarette... and vapor has yet to set off a smoke-detector (to my knowledge) anywhere... BUT, since it is your mom, I'd honor her wishes and go outside. If you HAD to stealth-vape, stick with a 20/80 PG/VG (low vapor) liquid in small tank (like an eGo battery and KPT3 mini or EVOD) and you'll not produce much vapor, if any, and the smell would be very limited to nothing more than a little spritz of air-freshener in the flavor you're vaping, so you'd need a fruit flavor? And, I hate to be harsh... but perhaps it's time to move out and get your own place, where you can do what you want, when you want?

This is why you don't carry 18650 batteries loose in your pocket/purse/backpack/etc. They make little plastic cases, silicone sleeves, and zipper-pouches for a REASON! LG should tell her "we don't reimburse you for stupidity"... Perhaps someone should tell her 99-cents for a plastic box would have saved her hundreds of dollars for a new purse (and contents)?

To clarify... A 30ml bottle of 30/70 mixture is 9ml of PG and 21ml of VG (based on ratio). To make 50/50, you need to raise the PG to equal the VG, thus adding 12ml to bring PG up to 21ml level (42ml total mixture). Furthermore, the Nicotine will be diluted by nearly 1/3 because you are increasing the volume nearly 50%... simple math tell you how much Nicotine will be affected... 6 * 30 / 42 = 4.28571mg It shouldn't increase TH too much, but adding PG will maintain the flavor (for the most part)... PG is the flavor carrier, so increasing the volume of PG should maintain the flavor fairly well.

@Edna If you cut the juice to 50/50, you would be adding enough pure PG to maintain the flavor, and effectively cut the Nicotine. To cut a 30/70 PG/VG mix to 50/50 (30ml bottle) you'd need to add 12mg of pure PG to give you 42ml of 50/50 mix. The Nicotine level will be cut to 4.2mg (roughly).

Received my two boxes of Nautilus BVC 1.6 Ohm coils from the V|T store! Ordered on Friday, received on Monday (free standard shipping), and they were the cheapest price I've found anywhere in the US Now that the V|T Store has more stuff, and better prices... Chris should expect more regular orders from me in the future...

@Tam I remember talking you into both of them... LOL... The original IPV mini is 30W and the IPV mini V2 is 70W, but they are identical in size and look, with the exception of a smoked-chrome around the buttons on the V2 (mirrored on the V1). The IPV minis are workhorses... I've been using 3 of the V1 in rotation for nearly two years! The two V2 I have are put up... saving them for a rainy day or hoping they become collectible Now, for the price and features of mods these days, you can get a really good device with far more power and features for $30-50.

Interesting, I didn't think the Kanger 75W-TC mod handled SS or NiCr coils? I have one that came with my TopBox Kit, and have only been using it in Wattage-mode, but I guess I need to check the instructions to check on SS and NiCr support @Squid is correct, the IPV4s doesn't support SS unless there has been a firmware update I'm not aware of? I don't have one, mostly because when they came out, they were only supporting Ni200 coils, which don't taste right to me, and they were WAY expensive when they were first released. As for the 1.2 Ohm NiChrome coils, those are great for flavor and produce decent vapor at 14-18W. And if you're using those, TC-mode is not even relevant, as they will work fine on any mod that goes up to 20W (or obviously higher).

Yeah, I've been slacking for the past few months... glad @Edna has been able to take over for me

Could always change the o-ring colors for the ones you use kanthal on the rebuilds?

@FXRich, Drop a 1.2 Ohm horizontal coil into the ST mini and you'll wonder why you're building coils, lol... I use them in my Nanos and Minis and the flavor is actually more pronounced in the Mini, probably because of the larger volume and longer tube? Or, it could just be my imagination I still use the RBA decks from time to time for the convenience of wick change and dry-burn... and I don't waste a factory coil, but since I now have over 200 of them in a box on the shelf, I don't worry about "coil maintenance" as much anymore... swap, prime, vape... lol I do save the old heads, though... eventually I'll get around to rebuilding the 30 or so I have laying in the re-purposed ash-tray on my shelf

Chris... I've gone from cigalikes to eGos with KPT3 mins... to KPT2 to Aerotanks... box mods like the MVP 2.0, mechanicals, micro boxes, high power, TC... big tanks, small tanks, sub-ohm... you name it... and I must say, I prefer my Kanger Subtank minis with 1.2 Ohm coils... flavor is great and vapor is respectable (but not room filling like my RDA's were). So, if you're looking for flavor, I'd give a ST mini a try! As for mods... I LOVE my Wismec Presa 75WTC (and the 100WTC is slightly bigger if you want more grip). The Wismec RX200s is a bit bulky, but I can go 3 days or more without swapping batteries... but I rarely go above 20W, with 16-17W being my average for my ADV. I've tried TC... and it's better with SS coils (flavor-wise)... Ni200 coils just taste funny to me, even after they're broken-in, and they don't seem to last as long as SS (in TC mode) or Kanthal/Nichrome in Wattage-mode. Yes, TC seems hard to master... but you set the temp low, just like you would for Wattage and slowly go up to find your sweet-spot... upping the Wattage only speeds up the ramp-up time to hit the temp, but if Watts are too low, you'll never hit your temperature limit, and if your Watts are too high, the screen goes nuts as it pulses power off/on to prevent over-kill of Wattage-to-temp, so you do have to play a balancing game. These days my daily rigs are Wismec Presa 75W with Subtank mini, Cloupor Mini-plus with Subtank mini, Kanger 50W subbox kit (subtank mini), RX200s with Subtank mini, Subvod 1300mAh (or Cloupor mini) with Subtank Nano or Aerotank2 (used when riding my motorcycle or working in the yard/garage), and lastly my beloved Russian 91% mounted on a Cloupor mini or IPV mini. My coil choice is 1.2 Ohm (horizontal) for the subtanks, and 1.2 or 1.5 Ohm BDC for the Aerotanks... and I build my Russians to hit 1.2 or 1.4 Ohm as well. All of these rigs produce great flavor and enough vapor to know I'm getting a fulfilling mouth/lung-full, and can easily require cracking the window in my car/truck so I can see to drive I have plenty of other tanks and mods, but those are my daily-drivers.... and yes, I also use smaller-bore drip-tips... like the (bore) size of the Kayfun V4... My fiance' rotates two Nautilus (1.6 Ohm coil) and a Triton (1.8 Ohm coil) on her mods (Wismec Presa 40W, Sigelei 50W, and Cloupor mini)... and she has a major preference to the Nautilus (she'd kill me in my sleep if I took them away from her, lol)! She only uses the Triton in the house, and she's not fond of my subtank minis She also has an eGo 1100mAh with a KPT3 mini (filled with chocolate mint) in the bathroom, which she vapes every morning while getting ready for work, lol