Earthling789

I hadn't taken a chance to welcome a fellow Kentuckian... sorry 'bout that! I was born in Letcher Co and spent my first few years there on the VA border... now live in East-Central KY (about an hour SE of Lex)

Incorrect... Higher resistance coils draw more Amps to fire the coil, per Ohm's Law. For example, a 2.5 Ohm coil cannot be fired at a Wattage higher than 10W because of the 5.0V limitation on the MVP, as this maximizes the output. But, a 1.5 Ohm coil at 10W will only be firing at 3.9V, thus drawing fewer Amps, and depleting the battery slower. Think of resistance in terms of weight... and you're the battery... It's easier to lift a lighter weight, longer, than it is to lift a heavy weight... both will exhaust you, but the heavier one will do so much faster. On a VW MOD, the Wattage is set, and will be achieved (up to a limit), regardless of the coil resistance used. The MOD only varies the Voltage to achieve the Wattage selected. There is no increased output, only savings to your battery life by using a lower resistance coil. Now, a lower resistance coil can achieve a higher Wattage (up to 11W limit), whereas a higher resistance coil (over 2.3 Ohms) will max out the Voltage limiter before reaching the 11W limit, due to the increased resistance. Here's a chart to show the relationship between Wattage selection and Coil choice, and the Voltage required for those settings:

Well, this has happened 3 times today. At first I thought the button had stuck, but now I'm thinking something else is going on. I changed tanks to rule out that being an issue (coil problem), but since changing tanks, it's happened twice more. Each time, the light starts blinking almost immediately after I press the fire-button, and continues to blink for about 4-5 seconds after I release it. I don't take long draws, probably 4-6 seconds average, and I'm currently using a 1.5 Ohm coil at 8.5W, so it's definitely not problem with settings outside the sweet-spot for performance. I'm going to power it off and re-charge tonight, and see what happens tomorrow!

No, the dual-coils are taller and won't fit properly (too tall from base to bottom of center-tube of tank). The PT3 is exactly like the PT2, but designed for dual-coils... and then there's the AeroTank... which is a slightly different "industrial" look, but essentially the same as a PT3, with the addition of an Air Flow Control base.

I'd never seen that before, because I rarely take a puff longer than 5-6 seconds (maybe my button stuck?)... According to the manual, the light is supposed to flash RED, not Green... But, I just tried it by holding the button until it flashed, and it did flash Green, so the manual is incorrect! Thanks for the sanity check grailhunter!

I checked the manual, but it says nothing about the green light blinking 10 or more times (or I overlooked it?)... Shorts or puffs over 10-sec will blink the red LED... nothing about blinking green... Today, I was using my MVP, and it was (and still is) working fine, but I noticed the green light blinking about 10 or 15 times. When I noticed the light blinking, I released the fire-button, and it continued to blink. I turned it off and back on, self-test was fine, and it seems to be working fine. Voltage is 3.8V, coil is good (1.7 Ohm), and even when it was blinking, the vapor production was normal. Anybody know why the green light blinked, even though it apparently was working fine, and still is?

I received a "free" 5-pack (no markings, not genuine) with the purchase of a tank a few months ago, and finally got nerve enough to try a couple... they were supposed to be 2.2 Ohm, but the two I've tried so far, tested at 2.0 Ohm, and both lasted a very long time, without any taste or vapor production issues... so apparently they were well-built knock-offs?

LOL, not a "pale ale"... 91% Isopropyl Alcohol I clean all my new tanks by full dis-assembly, washing with dish-soap, hot water rinse, a few minutes in 91% IPA, then another hot-water rinse, then I bring a pan of water to a near-boil, and drop the parts into that water to soak until it's cool enough to pull them out by hand... air-dry, reassemble, use! I like my new tanks to be clean, germ-, and oil-free, lol

In my experience, patina only affects the price of an antique... such as the patina on the brass hilt or steel of a Civil War era sword.... it serves to show the age. You wouldn't want to remove 150 years of "history" from it by shining it up and making it look like a brand-new reproduction. Those selling chemically treated MODs, which have an accelerated patina, are probably charging extra for the chemicals and effort to force a patina on them? Personally, I know the chemicals used to force patina are not good for the metal, and can (in some cases) damage them permanently by etching the metal, causing pitting and permanent discoloration. Yes, that's worse-case, but if not done properly, degrees of damage can occur. If you like patina, it's best to let it build-up and occur naturally... and natural patina is far easier to shine-up (remove) if you so choose.

I gotta agree with mvince and fishguy... a good vape experience can be had with a good quality tank, good juice, and a VV or VV/VW battery. Move up to dripping and MODs once you have some experience, or are willing to put in the time to learn the in's and out's of it... and be safe doing it... BTW, Welcome!

Welcome... No problem using whatever equipment that works for YOU... we don't judge anyone by what they use (although there is a bit of envy some times, lol)... When you're ready to upgrade or need an opinion, feel free to ask... we've got lots of opinions, One thing to be aware of, though... if you're using Plastic tanks, such as a Ce4, with your menthol juice, it will eventually cloud the tank or cause it to crack and leak. Pyrex glass tanks (like the AT mini) will perform MUCH better with menthol, cinnamon, mints, and heavy citrus juices.

Well, I said I was through buying any tanks for a while, but I lied... Stopped by my preferred B&M to pick up a bottle of Sour Apple and they had an AeroTank (open box) for $12.50... soooooo... it's now soaking in IPA

Ahhh, pictures are worth a thousand words... What you were calling "short", I was calling "stubby" What you were calling "standard", I was referring to as "short-stems". That was confusing me too Yes, the short-stems (that barely stuck above the caps) were on the dual-coils... I've not seen any of them in the single-coils. The standards and longs are what I have in my single-coil stockpile, and thankfully, I've gotten rid (used-up) all the short-stem dual-coils... man, I hated those things...

Another dozen boxes and you'll have almost as many coils on the shelf as me :P

Short-stems were on single-coils too... I've got a box of 1.8 singles with short-stems... and the original EVODs I got from Brian all had 2.5 Ohm short-stems in them Agreed, you can always swap the stems, but I've not had a leakage issue with the short-stem coils... and a couple of the long-stems have given me leakage... so I guess it's a coin-toss on leakage and can happen to either?

I recently opened an entire box of 1.5 coils and not ONE of them was actually even close to 1.5. Do you have a coil meter or digital multi-meter to check them? If they are actually 2.2 or higher... that may explain the cooler vape and less vapor production... they're too high of a resistance to produce acceptable Wattage from your eGO battery @ 3.7V. Higher resistance will also wear down your battery faster!

^^ THIS ^^ Make sure your battery can handle low Ohms and sub-Ohms... and always check your coils with a good meter before you fire them up on your MOD (which it sounds like you're doing this already)!

Yep, I have a short-stem coil in one of my KPT2's right now... working perfectly, just like the longer-stem coils. BTW, I've somehow ended up with a few of the stubby ones early on in my vaping experience... while they work fine, the are a PITA to screw in and get out... without getting juice all over your fingers or having the urge to grab a pair of pliers Thanks for the sanity-check Tam... And, yes, I think the longer stem ones are more prone to getting loose in the coil-head because the longer fulcrum-point (takes less effort to bump them loose)... perhaps that is why they have more leakage issues?

If I remember correctly... the short-stem (stubby-stem) coils were the "original" Kanger single-coils... and the stem barely stuck above the silicone cap. The ones in the store are longer than the originals, but shorter than the current single-coils (second-generation?). There is no difference between the stubby stems, short-stems, or long-stems... other than the obvious ability to have more grip to screw them into place? The silicone cap is what seals the center tube to prevent flooding/leaking, so the length of stem should not matter. However, you are needing dual-coils for your AeroTanks... and the short-stems you're referring to are single-coils. Yes, you can modify them to make them fit and work in the AT, PT3, PT3-mini, T3'd, and EVOD2 Glass... I've used single-coils in my AT before by sliding the cap up the stem to seal the tube (or use a second silicone cap upside-down on the stem to seal), but there's still a chance of leakage because the caps may not maintain that seal because there is nothing below it to maintain pressure/seal between the coil unit and the center tube.

Hey, keep 'em coming... that's how we all learn

I agree with mcquinn... I'm vaping to stay of analogs (for good), and get perfectly good vapor and flavor from my Kanger AeroTanks, ProTank2's, EVODs and ProTank3-minis... using static-voltage 3.7V eGo batteries and an MVP 2.0 VV/VW MOD. I'm not a cloud-chaser, and too old for "tricks", lol If you're looking to vape to do "tricks"... the only suggestion I have is to use 100% VG juices... that will give you the maximum vapor production... from there, it will be up to you to decide what battery/MOD, or what tank/RDA to use. Now for my rant.... I also feel that I must add... Vaping is a tool in the arsenal to stop smoking - A VERY EFFECTIVE ONE, and it irks me to no end when the first statement/question from a new vaper is "I started vaping to do tricks" or "what equipment will give me clouds that make everyone think I'm on fire?". It is highly annoying, and detrimental to our fight with the FDA, to see youth picking it up solely as a device to do tricks or to blow massive vapor clouds because they "look cool" or solely to annoy others (because there are few regulations on doing so in public)... It is those people that are doing the most damage in our fights to avoid insane taxation and regulations on the industry. The media prey upon your exploits for every news-story they can air, to cast horrible light upon "vapers" as "menaces to society" or "look, see, kids are just doing it, and next they'll be smoking cigarettes and driving on the sidewalk while huffing paint... we need regulations!". Now, I'm not saying that is you... and maybe I'm just getting old, but I'm just saying that you should be considerate of others, and if you want to blow vapor-rings, squares, triangles, and room-filling clouds that make a northwest fog appear like a little mist... PLEASE do so in the privacy of your home! I now return you to your regularly scheduled forum....

Can't blame a guy for trying

You are correct... the standard EVOD tank only breaks down by removing the bottom ring and extracting the coil... but that is far enough for a cleaning. A good hot water rinse, Vodka rinse, and again with hot water (or let it soak for a few minutes) will do nicely for cleaning an EVOD. Don't worry much about tap-water, because unless you're using Pharma-grade distilled and filtered water, there will always be trace minerals... but nothing I'd worry with... straight out of the tap works just fine for me

Does she have a sister?? LOL

What kind of tanks? For my Kanger tanks (which are all Pyrex tanks and SS bodies), a GOOD cleaning involves full disassembly, and a soak in hot soapy water (light scrub with a bottle brush), then a rinse in hot water... a soak in 91% IPA, rinse in hot water, and then a soak in near boiling hot water (not on the stove) until the water reaches a temp where I can dig out the parts without burning my fingers For a quick cleaning... hot water rinse, IPA rinse/soak, and rinse/soak in near boiling water... let dry, assemble, use. Coils can be soaked in Vodka, then rinsed in very hot water and allowed to dry ... which will remove "most" of the old flavor. You can use 91% IPA as a soak too, but rinse, rinse, rinse, soak and rinse again in hot water, then allow to dry for at least overnight, prefer 24 hours to remove all remnants of IPA.... you don't want to vape that which is why a lot of people use Vodka to clean/soak... safer to vape if you have some residue on the coils/wicks.