Earthling789

I've used juices that were at or just beyond the 1-yr life (those gifted to me with close expiration date on bottle), and they tasted as good as one that was only a couple months old... but as stated, that will vary by juice contents, flavor, and manufacturer. One year is a good rule, IMO For me, personally, I've not been vaping for a year yet, so anything I've bought, and not yet used, is still well within it's birth-year so to speak. For those flavors that I vape daily (~20ml / day), I have no issues buying in bulk (180-360ml bundles). It saves costs, and there is no danger of any of those bottles sitting around longer than 3-6 months. Every other flavors I vape "occasionally" are purchased in 30ml quantities (again, cost factors).... Some see 1-2ml per week use... some a bit more... but even at 1ml per week, it will be used easily within a year. If I buy something new to try and I don't like the flavor (or tire of it too quickly), it gets gifted away, so I don't have those sitting around either. Oh, sure, 100 bottles of juice look awesome on the shelf... until they are covered in dust

I like all my Kanger tanks, but daily use is KPT2 with AeroBase or KPT3-mini I tried the iClear that came with my MVP... didn't care for it's flavor, vapor, and it just felt/looked cheap.... didn't use it long enough to incur any flooding

PT3 is a dual-coil, and I frequently run my MVP with dual-coils 9W and higher, so yes, they can handle it nicely. Your variable is either your base is not allowing enough air-flow (easy fix by adding a $4 Air Flow Control base), or your juice is too thick to wick efficiently. Thus, giving you a burnt-taste at such a low Voltage or Wattage. Factory coils really start to gum-up with high VG juices (30/70) or really sweet juices, and the wicks take a few seconds to "re-load". Also, once you burn a wick, it rarely recovers it's ability to wick juice, which compounds the problem even more... best to toss it, or re-wick it with organic cotton (if you have the desire). I would highly suggest an Air Flow Control base! I have them on my KPT2's (single-coils) and they really make a difference in the vapor and flavor, and I can adjust the air-flow based on the PG/VG ratio of the juice I'm using.

Looks like you rescued it from a sunken ship in the ocean!

By pure chance, today marks 4-months since my last analog! My last physical (three weeks ago) shows me to be in FAR better physical condition than I was in February, and my wallet is a tiny bit fatter by saving 80% over the cost of analogs (compared to vaping). My doctor said my lung capacity has more than doubled... like growing another lung... and my bronchial wheezing (and cough) has completely vanished. My blood tests show "healthy" numbers normally seen in a 20-yr old. I've even lost a few pounds, too! I use to have issues just walking to the mailbox or a walk to the car in a long parking lot, but now I feel I can do back-flips all the way there and back (or at least jog the distance). A few weeks ago, I did a 12-mile hike with my sons and didn't feel the need for an ambulance or Oxygen tank... I felt like I could do another 12-miles (and the 23-yr-old was worn out).... So, yes, smoking is polluting your body with hundreds if not thousands of toxins/carcinogens... The jury is still out on what long-term issues we'll suffer from vaping. The ingredients in juices are perfectly safe, but nobody knows for sure what happens at a molecular level when you burn them into an aerosol. That being said... in my book vaping is the ONLY successful method for me to quit analogs, and a far safer (and cheaper) method than Chantix, patches, etc... Remember also that nicotine is not the enemy... nicotine occurs naturally in nearly every fruit or vegetable you eat (albeit much smaller doses)

I really like the 1.5 Ohm coils (over 2.0 Ohm) with my AeroTanks, especially when using a static-Voltage battery. I've used the 2.0 in them and vapor is "anemic" by comparison (again, static-Voltage). Now, if you are using a VV/VW device there is little difference because Wattage can get set constant, or Voltage can be varied to achieve similar results between the two. If I set my MVP on 9W, the difference between 1.5 and 2.0 Ohms is not noticeable. But, on a static voltage device like your Panzer (or even an eGo), there will be a difference between the two because Voltage is constant and Coil Resistance is the variable.

I think you're getting it, lol... Wattage is the measure of power Amps is the measure of current Voltage is the measure of electricity (in DC) Ohms is the measure of resistance of the coil They all work in concert, based on the ratios prescribed by Ohm's Law: Voltage = Current * Resistance Power (watts) = Voltage * Current A static battery or a replaceable battery are no different, as their "life" is based primarily on charge capacity, measured in Milli-Amp-Hours (mAh). A 2600mAh battery has twice the capacity (life) of a 1300mAh battery... which means the bigger battery will last longer (up to twice) than the smaller one. As for "complicated"... THAT comes into play when you're using a mechanical MOD and building your own coils. But, using a factory, 1.5-3.0 Ohm coil in a tank should be little issue for virtually any static, 3.7V battery!

Well, the term "mod" came from the original builds which were cobbled together from other pieces and parts... such as "modifying" a flashlight to handle a head with 510 threads, rather than a "bulb"... but the general consensus is, if the battery comes out, it's a MOD Many will also refer to an MVP or VV-V3 as a MOD, because they are variable voltage and/or wattage devices (I'm guilty of this too, sometimes, lol)... but they are sealed-battery devices. You are correct... a MOD (mechanical MOD) does require a bit of knowledge of electricity, especially Ohm's Law, but if using factory coils with a tank (like an Aspire or Kanger) it's not much different than using a standard, static-voltage eGo. When you move up to building your own coils... Safety and Ohm's Law knowledge REALLY comes into play, because you tend to move well outside the sweet-spot of factory coil resistances (sub-ohms) because the battery can generally handle it.

"MOD" by definition is one that takes a replaceable battery. Anything that takes an 18650 will be in the 1" diameter size, minimum, because the first two numbers determine the diameter of the battery, last set of numbers determine the length... A tube-mod that takes an 18xxx battery will be 22mm diameter (24.5mm = 1") at a bare minimum. The vast majority of MODs are mechanical, which means no circuitry, no regulation, no VV or VW capabilities. Now, there are some like the Innokin VTR or Tesla (VV) that are... but something like a Magneto is purely mechanical. If you're wanting VV/VW, and still small, eGo-ish, perhaps you might find an Innokin VV V3 to your liking? If you want a rock-solid box-style, I highly recommend the Innokin MVP 2.0! If you just want VV, any of the 1100mAh or larger spinners/twists from Joyetech, Vision or Kanger will do very well (and what many of us here use daily as a go-to battery). I suggest the larger mAh VV batteries because they last longer and tend to be a little larger diameter than the 14mm standard eGo size.

Welcome!

Lower resistance coils draw more Amps, which is why they will not fire on a cheap battery... and if you go too low, on a battery that cannot handle it (without protection circuitry), you get a dangerous situation! Using the battery you are using, circuitry protects the system and regulates the load/current to prevent explosive situations. If you're using a static Wattage... say 9W... a 1.5 Ohm coil is using 3.67V @ 2.45A... the same Wattage and using a 2.5 Ohm coil is using 4.74V @ 1.90A... So, yes, a lower resistance coil will heat faster (less resistance), but will also deplete your battery faster, too, as it draws more Amps from your battery's capacitance. One thing about a higher resistance coil is that they do take a fraction of a second longer to heat up, but they also cool down slower... so perhaps some of the perception of "heat" is residual dissipation?

I don't use Aspire tanks, but for me "standard" size -vs- "mini" size is more about what battery I'm using it with. I'll use my mini tanks primarily on a slim (eGo-style) battery so they aren't so bulky or top-heavy... more portable, if you will. On my MVP, I'll primarily use my standard-size tanks. Now, will I put a KPT2 on my eGo? Sure... same for using a Mini on my MVP... Capacity also has a lot to do with it... but I vape about 3ml/day... so a standard tank will last me almost all day... a mini has to be filled at least once or twice (or I'll carry a couple extras with me if I'm away from home).

^^ This ^^ If you're building coils, definitely use a dedicated coil meter or at least a quality DMM (digital multi meter) to get an accurate read on the coil. The meters on the devices are close, but never "accurate", at least in my experience comparing a coil-meter to my MVP 2.0...

Welcome to VT! Nice looking set-ups!

Congrats on the conversion, and welcome to VT!

I use 50/50 in my Kanger tanks (singe-coil and dual-coil styles) with zero issues. When I vape my 30/70 juices, the Kanger coils have no problems keeping up as long as I give it ~3 seconds between hits, so the wicks can catch-up, because of the thicker juices. As the others have said, I don't know any tank that cannot handle 50/50 juices, and should handle 70% VG without issue, too.

I wouldn't worry about it then... as long as it still works, I'd keep using it until the battery no longer provides a reliable charge.

Are you rebuilding them as dual-coil heads or as a single-coil? The KPT3 is a dual-coil tank. I've been using factory 1.5 Ohm dual-coils in my AeroTank (same as KPT3, but with Air Flow Control Base already there), and in my KPT3-minis... I get really good flavor from my 80/20 down to 50/50 juices and no wicking issues. Now chain-vaping a 30/70 juice can sometimes be an issue, as it takes a few seconds to wick in more juice, but usually no more than 3-5 seconds and I'm ready for another hit.

LED's are good for tens of thousands of hours, but they can and do fail... It could be the LED just gave up the ghost, or perhaps the circuit board blew a resistor to the green LED... hard to say. As long as it works as it should... you can still check the voltage remaining with the buttons on the side, and it will still show yellow/red when you get below 3.6V, right?

I don't run any replaceable battery MODs at the moment, but I do use Sony and Panasonic 18650's for other high-drain applications. My real go-to's for vaping are my MVP 2.0, and my non-VV 1100mAh eGo-T batteries (in that order) over my VV eGo's, but I'm enjoying "simplicity" these days

I've tried some 80/20 (PG/VG) mixes with 0-nic which still had a decent throat hit. PG = Throat hit, VG = Vapor... as you change the ratio, you get more of one, less of the other.

$25 for a basic bottom-coil EVOD kit... decent starter. I have no clue on the "brand", which appears to be a knock-off of the Kanger EVOD starter, but I'm sure it will be just as reliable. I would recommend you pick up another battery so you can have one charging or charged while you use another because 650mAh will sometimes get you through a day, but not if you really use it Picking up a second kit, or just another, decent battery (check the VT store here) will keep you going. It also never hurts to have extra tanks and coils as Bebob suggested. The EVOD tanks are really good tanks, but they are plastic, so you'll want to keep cinnamon, menthol, mints, and heavy citrus flavors away from them, as they will crack plastic... use Pyrex tanks for those flavors. Figure it this way... for the price of a carton of analogs, you can get a decent starter kit (or two) and be on your way to kicking the analog habit! Congrats on your purchase, and welcome to VT!

I can see the benefit of perhaps a category-base sub-forum, but I think even a manufacturer-based or device-based sub-forum would be too cluttered and there would be such a great deal of cross-posting there would be a blur across lines. But, I'm with McQuinn and BCarter... in the fact that tanks and non-MOD batteries are in my wheel-house... maybe someday I'll pick up a Tesla or Magneto or something shiny and copper... but to find that info in a single "replaceable battery MOD" sub-forum (or not) would be fine with me.

I don't own a Nautilus, and won't unless the Tank-Fairy shows up at my house, lol... I have roughly 2-dozen Kanger tanks... KPT2's with Aerobases, AeroTanks, KPT3-minis, and EVODs... so I only have to keep up with two types of coils at the moment. If I had a Nautilus, I'd have another coil to keep up with, so that is one thing to consider as you stock up on tanks! So, that being said... you can never have too many tanks I have a couple of favorite flavors that stay in the majority of my tanks, and the rest have things to keep my pallet happy and so things don't get boring. Unlike BCarter, I've not committed to one flavor yet Batteries are a personal choice. If you like the eGo style, stick with them (spinners or not), although I do recommend the Innokin MVP 2.0 battery. Yes, it's a box, but it will sit on the table without the need for a stand, and the battery is 2600mAh, so it will last twice as long as a 1300mAh Spinner (on paper)... I get 2, sometimes 3 days out of it before recharging. Between the MVP, my four 1100mAh eGo batteries, and stockpile of tanks and coils, I'm well set, and only spending money on juices these days, lol

Welcome! Beautiful in Alaska... can't wait to get back there someday...