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Everything posted by ChesapeakeVapor
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Thanks guys! Sounds like I need to make up my own sampler here. Plus, I'm gonna need a little more than 5ml to really give them a good trial. Thanks again for the input and suggestions!
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Kanger Heads
ChesapeakeVapor replied to ChesapeakeVapor's topic in Troubleshooting & Technical Issues
The ones pictured and the ones that both Kevin and I have all have the silicone insulators. That is what I am thinking the main issue is. The silicone is a much softer material and I think thats why they get damaged easily. I can't remember where I read or saw this, but I remember hearing that Kanger switched from rubber to silicone on their heads because people were complaining about being able to taste the rubber. I've pulled one apart before and the silicone does seem pretty soft. I'm glad that others aren't have the same issues because I do really enjoy the Kanger tanks that I have. -
Kanger Heads
ChesapeakeVapor replied to ChesapeakeVapor's topic in Troubleshooting & Technical Issues
Joshua, Kevin was a little confused about the damaged part. The area that seems to be causing the issue is the insulator, the same thing that you sent the link for a replacement for. They get a little tiny puncture or nick in them and then leak. I will try to figure out a way to post a pic of one of the damaged ones once I get home. Thanks again guys! -
Kanger Heads
ChesapeakeVapor replied to ChesapeakeVapor's topic in Troubleshooting & Technical Issues
Also, looking at the link you just sent the insulators that are getting damaged are definitely silicone, I may order a few rubber ones and see if they hold up a bit better. Thanks again! Will do Fish! -
Kanger Heads
ChesapeakeVapor replied to ChesapeakeVapor's topic in Troubleshooting & Technical Issues
Perfect!!! Thanks Joshua!!! I wasn't sure if it was possible to buy those little insulators. I would like to take a run at rebuilding some of these instead of just tossing them and buying new heads. Thanks a ton for the link! -
Kanger Heads
ChesapeakeVapor replied to ChesapeakeVapor's topic in Troubleshooting & Technical Issues
Thats a good thought too Fish, I will recommend that to my buddy who is having the same issue. The only problem is that on the AeroTank the airflow controller is what the head screws into and it is protected from the mod. On the Evod2 and KPT3 Mini this could be an issue though. I'll check it out on my buddy's mod. Thanks!! -
Hey guys, I figured I would use this as a way to introduce myself. I've been on here for a few days so far and made a few posts. Everyone seems to be really friendly and super helpful! I saw today that VT is running a sale on their juices. Anyone have any favorites or recommendations? I only ask because from reading the descriptions they all sound pretty darn good other than the clove one as that is just not one of my flavor preferences. Thanks and glad to be here and looking forward to being an active member of the forum!!!
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Kanger Heads
ChesapeakeVapor replied to ChesapeakeVapor's topic in Troubleshooting & Technical Issues
Thanks for the input! I have had this happen on four separate tanks now. Two Evod 2's, an Aero, and a Protank 3 Mini. Perhaps I just need to be a little more careful. I would post a pic of one of the damaged coils but I haven't figured out how to upload one on here yet. Once I do I will snap a pic of a damaged coil and see if anyone else can shed some light. Thanks again! -
Agreed Sirius, the Fatty has "adjustable air flow" but I wouldn't really call it that. I would call it one small hole that doesn't quite cut it, other than for mouth to lung. Which is fine for my regular relaxing style, but I do like the Trident better and I just picked up a Quasar and a Kayfun 3.1 to try out. I can see the Fatty V3 staying in my rotation just due to the single coil design, but it will probably take a back seat to the Trident, Quasar, and Kayfun.
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Kanger Heads
ChesapeakeVapor replied to ChesapeakeVapor's topic in Troubleshooting & Technical Issues
When you look at the bottom of the head there is an upper white rubber/silicone ring and then the underneath that below the threads there is another rubber "plug" with a metal piece that fits inside of it. The piece that seems to continually get damaged is the rubber/silicone boot that separates the two leads from the coils. This is the piece that I have noticed getting a VERY small cut or nick in it and the heads flood and the juice will seep onto the top of the 510 connection on your battery or in the instance of the AeroTank the air regulation part. -
Hey guys, a buddy of mine and I both use different variances of Kanger tanks. Since we are both relatively new to the vape world these are kinda where we have started off. The question I have is about the heads on specifically the Evod 2, Protank 3, and Aerotank. All of these take the same heads. I have noticed that you need to be really careful when putting them in because if you get a small gauge in that bottom "plug" piece, not he o-ring above the heads, but the bottom rubber boot piece. If this gets a small nick or cut in it the heads seem to flood and then are no good. Has anyone else had this issue and if so have you found any way to remedy this? Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks!! Vape on!!!
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Hey all! I didn't see a review of this mod so I figured I would toss one up. I started out with an iTaste VV 3.0 and quickly outgrew it as my fascination with vaping started to steamroll. I did some research and after looking into mechs versus VV devices I decided I wanted to go with a VV/VW mod that I could sub ohm with since I was interested in seeing what all the hype was about. My decision was the Sigelei 20W device and thus far my experience has been phenomenal. You can find all kinds of reviews online as far as youtube and other sorts and they all pretty much say the same thing. For the price tag you can't beat this device. It does what it advertises it will other than going super sub ohm. I believe that the reason why it is advertised that it will fire lower than it really will is because the resistance meter that is built into the device seems to be off by approximately .2 ohm and that is .2 ohm on the low side. For instance I have a Fatty V3 on there now that reads 1.9 ohm but when I connect it to my other resistance meter it reads just over 2.1 ohm. As far as the functionality of the device it is VERY simple to use. The SX200 chip that is in there works great. The "tilt" adjustment takes a little getting used to and can be a bit of a pain as sometimes you need to go back and forth just to hit that "sweet wattage spot" of your preference, but other than that the device is super easy to use. I have been running Sony 18650 30 amps in the device and usually hanging around 11.8 watts for my daily use. The battery lasts me all day at work and into the evening a bit as well, and that is with what I would call pretty heavy use. Overall this is a great device and I would highly recommend to any vaper looking to get into a good VV/VW device at a reasonable price tag. I paid $109 for this at a local B&M and I would have gladly paid the $119 that I have seen all over the internet for this product. That pretty much sums it up! Thanks for reading and feel free to post any comments with any questions and I'll do my best to answer or point you in the right direction. Vape on!!!
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iTaste vv/vw 3.0 awesome for noobs like me!
ChesapeakeVapor replied to wikidbitch's topic in e Cigarette Reviews
This was my first device as well. Great little battery and thus far I have had no issues. I quickly moved on to a little more high test mod in a Sigelei 20w but the iTaste is still in my rotation. My only complain is how little those adjustment buttons are! Oh and as far as price you definitely got a deal Wikid, I paid $50 at one of my local B&M's. However I did find the Sigelei at another B&M for $109 where I have only seen it for $119 online. Either way, hope your feeling better and enjoy that iTaste! -
Good topic here guys! I am relatively new to the vape game and have been enthralled since about a month ago when I got into it. As of right now I have been all VV/VW but I just picked up a Stainless Stingray Clone by Infinite off of ebay for quite a steal. I should have it in a few days and once I give it a try I will post a review. As far as RDAs go I started with a Trident clone and then picked up a Fatty V3 to mess around with single coil builds. I also have a Kayfun 3.1 clone on the way as well as a Quasar clone. So, its safe to say that I am ok with the clones. I just simply cannot afford to get into the real deal stuff until I figure out exactly what I like. My only recommendation on RDA's would be to get one with holes in the posts such as a Patriot like Joshua recommended. They are MUCH easier to start building on as its much easier to thread your leads through the holes rather than wrapping them around the posts like on the Fatty V3. Trident is also not a bad RDA to start on as it has slots at the top of the posts and can make it easier to experiment with different wire gauges, and types such as flat ribbon. Regarding the mod clones I have done a good bit of research and found that the Nemesis is definitely one of the better ones out there. Many reviews of it stating that it is as good as the real deal. As stated earlier I will post a small review of the Stingray once I get it and give it a good test run. Also, I cannot stress enough #6 up there that Joshua posted. Definitely research the heck out of battery safety. The Sony 18650 30 amps seem to be what a lot of guys are using and it is a safe battery. However, look into how to do it correctly and safely and what the warning signs are so that you know what you are doing before you get into trouble. The last thing you want to do is damage the device you just spend hard earned cash on, or even worse damage yourself.
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Well just to round this out in case anyone else has the issue I had with the Fatty V3 RDA. Keep an eye on your posts on this device. When I took this completely apart I switched the positive and negative posts. One is longer than the other and they have to be in the correct side. If you have this RDA you will notice a insulator on the deck where the post fits through, that is your negative post or the shorter of the two. If you make sure to have them correctly placed, you won't have the issue that I did. As a short review of this RDA, it is a little overly complicated for what it needs to be. However, if you are a single coiler like myself, and enjoy a good flavor over a huge cloud this RDA could be one that would make it into your rotation. The draw is a little tight for my liking, but I may drill out the air holes a bit and see if I can open it up a bit. Also, this thing can hold a decent amount of juice as doesn't dry out fast at all. Overall, I really like this device, now that I figured out what I screwed up in the first place, and I would recommend it as a decent single coil RDA. Thanks again to all the quick responses!
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Also, a buddy of mine just purchased a Protank 3 Mini. Not sure if that is what you're looking at but once he gets it I will check back and let you know what he thinks.
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I am mainly an RDA user, but I do own and enjoy an Aerotank for when I want to take one piece with me on the go and have enough juice for the day. The airflow is nice, but I find myself using it at wide open all the time which is probably why I would regard myself as an RDA guy since I like a airy draw. One thing to be wary of is the bottom of the heads. There is a small silicone piece that seats the coil plug into the bottom. If this gets a small cut in it from anything I have found the coil to be useless since it will continually flood. With that said, the Aerotank is my go to tank at this moment.
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Thanks Bebop, thats what I was trying to figure out last night. The Fatty is on of those RDAs where you wrap the kanthal around the post and tighten down the connection clamping down the wire. I was fiddling and trying to figure out if it wasn't making a good connection with the post. I'm gonna grab a ohm meter on my way home from work today and do a bit more "fiddling" see if I can't figure out what I am doing wrong. I've never had an issue with my coils on my Trident but this Fatty seems to be a fickle RDA. Thanks again for the advice! Much appreciated and I welcome more!
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Thanks Bebop! I have checked everything and all is clean and looks brand new, really both devices are pretty much brand new. I will definitely be getting an ohm meter for more reliable information. But any thoughts on the fact that a perfectly good coil was reading 0.0 ohm and simply would not read? I even used one of the coils that wouldn't read on the Fatty onto a Trident and I am currently vaping on it right now, reading 2.1 ohm. Thanks again for the input!!
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Thanks for the response guys! I have been looking into picking up an ohm meter for testing, but just haven't yet. I am still a bit new to the vape world. I will definitely be picking one up next time I am by the shop. Also, I did check the 510 connection to see if there were any issues there and on the mod it has a spring loaded pin so I know that one is good and the connection on the atomizer is fixed so it doesn't appear there is any movement to be had. This one truly has me stumped. I know that this atomizer is a weird one as it has some funky parts to it and is a little more complex than necessary in my opinion, but it still makes we wonder what has changed since the first two coils I put on there. Thanks again for the help!
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Hey guys, new to the forum and I need a bit of advice. I just purchased a Fatty V3 from my local B&M and I am having some issues. Firstly I am using a Sigelei 20w device and anyone familiar with this device will know that it cannot fire below .6 ohms even if its advertised to. I am shooting for around 1.5-1.8 for this Fatty atomizer and the first coil I installed read around 2.4. I've wrapped about 5 coils since that one and they all read "LOW RES". its either reading the coils between 0.0 - 0.4 ohm. I even tried popping the original 2.4 coil back in there and it read "LOW RES" again... can't figure out what I've done. Any advice is truly appreciated! Thanks! -Ryan