charliestheman

I couldn't wait on my MVP, bought it at a HUGE discount then paid out the *** to get it sent express mail lol.

The VTC3s and 4s are on special on vaporjoe's today with a coupon code, $10 and $11 a pair and some change I believe. They might always be that cheap some places, but figured I'd mention it just in case even though they aren't the VTC5s you asked about, in case they can be used as backup in a mod or something.

If you don't like a really "airy" and loose draw you may not love the iClear 30 tank, for me personally I liked the 30S much better than the 30 when I first got the MVP, but my vaping is more advanced so I should probably revisit the 30 and see if it fits me better now that I'm freight training with the deep lung hits, as Rip Trippers would say.

First things first, with your tank/cartomizer you want to snug it down where it makes a connection, "finger snug". A lot of clearomizers with long center pins can screw on to the threads too far if you go past the snug fit. Pressing both buttons on the LCD will display the resistance and battery capacity. So when you are attaching a clearomizer or tank, once it connects snug you can press both buttons and see if it shows an ohm number. If it says "NON" that means it's not contacting the firing pin unless its a short somewhere. If you get a resistance reading back, try and take a vape and if it fires it's good to go. The biggest thing is, there's two modes, they are seperate. You can set voltage OR wattage, not both. Start running wattage mode (P for Power on the button label, it's the top button on the LCD. There's tons of bad advice where people are instructing users to set both, which is impossible. If you set Power, and then you press the "V" button for volts, it discards whatever P you just set, and vice versa. Set the (P) which is power to 7.5 and start vaping. Once you've vaped a lil bit, enough to warm up your tank and get it wicking, bump it up .5 at a time, and when you start to get the hint of a burnt taste back it down a click. The lower the ohm rating, the lower your power needs to be. If you build your own coils start around 1.8 to 2 ohms, and you'll probably crank the power up quite a bit. With my protank it tends to burn at higher watts than my aspire tank with BDC. My protank is a protank 2. When you set the (P) it's going to regulate the power for you. It caclulates the resistance in your clearomizer/cartomizer and decides how much voltage to send from the battery so that you get that wattage. When you set voltage, you're telling it not to do the math for you, to try and stay at exactly that voltage instead of adjusting it for the power output to stay the same. If you build your own coils, start out around 2 ohms, 1.8 something like that. When the ohms get really low the MVP battery just can't put out the power it needs, you'll get a better vape with a higher ohm, at least that's my experience. If 1.8 works well you can try lower next build and find the sweet spot. With pre-bought coils personally I like 1.8 ohm but 2.2 works almost as good so if you have a bunch of 2.2 coil units from kanger or aspire or something, you can use them just fine. PBusardo has a great review

Has anyone gotten one of these yet? I'm looking forward to seeing how they turn out.

I love me some trading and bartering. I hold auctions sometimes and work with a big auction company often buying and selling equipment and miscellaneous stuff. I often buy things with the idea that even if I can't sell it when I'm done with it, or if i'm strictly buying for resale purposes either one, when it doesn't sell I can always TRADE it for more crap, but different crap lol. I would really love to see more trading going on in the vaping community, especially with all these different clones and mods and such. I know a lot of people buy multiple clones to see what style they like, and it would be neat to see a place where people could just swap all the ones that didn't make the "short list" which would save money and resources, although I like to see vape shop owners making money too, that's why I like the idea of trading clones to help decide what someone might like a lot, then they could narrow it down and buy some genuine items or stock shelf items with a lil markup from the local shops and online vendors active in our community.

Edit removed sentence that was here after rereading your post, only one left is slightly OT sorry What bcartervol98 was mentioning is that anyvape switched to strictly run Aspire coils in the Mini Davide King edition and they may be doing the same with their other tanks. They were having leaking problems with the universal setup so they ditched the option to run either in the new tanks.

I got some pluto over the weekend, story on how I ended up with it is in the vape mail thread. But I could tell the menthol was there, it's a very "cool" vape. It's a light menthol though, but for someone who hasn't vaped menthol I definitely tasted/felt it. There's a guy making "cool watermelon" down here, and the Pluto made me think I have an idea what "cool" fruit flavors feel like, just enough menthol to feel the tic tac ish/dentyne ice flavor on the exhale. Not sure if it helps any, if you have no cool feeling its different from mine, if it's a very light "cool breeze" vape but not strong enough for a menthol person, I could see that being the case and being disappointed. Just thought I'd share in case it helps you to tweak wicks or wattage or something and find the flavor.

They make an adapter to run Aspire Nautilul or Aspire BDC coils in the Kanger Pro Tanks. I've seen them twice in the last few days of vape shopping, let me find the link. PS - I just know they exist and considered trying them, I'm not stating they work or work well. Heck that was quick with some vape-fu on the keyboard http://www.vaporkings.com/Aspire-BDC-to-Protank-I-II-adapter-p/adapter-bdc-protank.htm

I was considering the 30 clone. But then I started thinking about how regardless of how it worked, it would still be a clone. And the guys at Evolv have really revolutionized this industry in my opinion starting with the kick and Darwin, and I believe will continue to do so. I decided in the end, I'd want to buy a genuine DNA 30 product to support Evolv and have the real thing, so buying a clone and then a genuine would be more expensive than biting the bullet, buying the real thing and being done with it.

Make sure you're typing the URL and not using a bookmark.

The skeleton must have waited too long to switch from analogs to vaping.

This is so cheesy but it meant a lot, so it's a little story to explain what I got: So my girlfriend doesn't vape, but I call her a "Vape Spouse" because our dresser, her bookshelf, even her nightstand, along with my vape-desk within arms reach of the bed, usually have vape supplies on them. She watches me build coils, understands ohm's law when I explain it brings my juice to work when I forget it, etc. She doesn't even complain about how much I spent getting started and stocking up on juice. When I do something, I'm an "all in" kind of guy, and she's always right there supporting me. Yesterday she took her daughter and a friend to watch a softball tournament out of town. I stayed behind because I've been working all weekend. So I'm dozing off to sleep around midnight when she gets home. She pulls the covers back and says "I got you something baby." I woke up, thinking instantly of my posts "there's no vape shops within a hundred miles" and the distance she drove to the tournament. Sure enough, I stuck my hand in the back and felt, it was a bottle of ejuice. I pulled it out and looked at it, and it was what I vape, 18 mg nic content. She smiled and said "It's presteeped baby. I think you'll like the flavor I picked. I found a vape shop on our trip, the cards are in the bag." She bought me a biggish bottle of Space Jam Pluto. I was impressed, i knew for store-bought, the brand was pretty decent juice from my research I did when I was in a crisis worried about running out of good juice before I had something ready to vape. ( I didn't run out because Compenstine got my juice quicker than I thought was possible) This morning when I got to work, I looked it up, and Space Jam Pluto has most of my favorite flavors in it, and even something new to me that I've been wanting to try, a "cool" vape with a mentholish exhale. So I built a dripper today and after lunch cracked open the Pluto. Mrs. CharliesTheMan did very good. But it just meant a lot that she found a vape shop on the trip and went in and found something, and on top of that, she got exactly the right nicotine content, and I have 6, 12 and 18 mg at home from before I found the sweet spot, so she had to pay close attention, it wasn't just from reading the bottles.

I'm not in Texas I'm in Louisiana, but I'd be happy to answer any non specific questions about the South one might have. Do you drink iced tea? That seems to be an important characteristic. Oh and no matter what kind of carbonated beverage you drink, it's called a "coke" "Would you like a coke?" down here would be followed by "OK We have Sprite, Dr. Pepper, Orange Sode, diet coke and coke. Which kind of coke will you have today?" I don't know what else y'all are used to drinking up there, but we aint got "pop" south of the mason-dixon line

Welcome to the site Laura. We're almost neighbors, I'm in Louisiana. There's quite a few Texans I've noticed. That's awesome about you and your husband. Even though I'm a guy and of course guys don't care about the mushy stuff (lol) I've always thought it was neat Grimm Green met his wife on the vaping forums and then started a their namber juice company together. Crazyavonlady happy anniversary to you too. It's funny how we meet our soulmates sometimes. I'm an IT nerd, and in a computer science class I had a flash drive in one of those stupid plastic hangy packages (i hate those things), and I couldn't get it opened. After fighting with it, this really smokin hot lil blonde chick next to me was like "Give it here, I'll open it for you." I was thinking she had scissors or something, but she went rambo/incredible hulk fingers on it and just ripped the package apart. Three years later we are planning to get married and have a very happy little family and amazing relationship. Laura I bet it's nice most of the time having a hubby in the industry. However I'd be broke all the time, even if I was buying at cost lol. There's just so many fun toys in the vape world. I'd love to see a few pics of the vape shop sometime, I'm in an area with a vaping population too small to support a dedicated vape shop right now.

Who needs stain, a nice lathering of e-juice will occur over time and give it that "scratch-n-sniff" patina. On second thought that's a lot of stickyness, maybe a few coats wont hurt That's a really nice desk, some good organization tricks. I might have to borrow a few of your ideas, Mr Happy Vapor.

I actually just replied to your other thread suggesting the Nautilus as one that might work well. I like them, have one bought but it's stuck on back order for the last two weeks. I like my other Aspire cartomizers better than the Kanger Pro Tank 2 that I bought yesterday. And I know the Nautilus will work with the 510 connection, some of the other cartos that use ego style connections, I'm not sure if they would fit, but the 510 will for sure.

Welcome to the site. I'm fairly new as well, I've been vaping a touch longer but haven't been cigarette free as long. I did some google searching, and found some information that I think is correct on the atmos rx site and here http://www.fortmyersvapor.com/shop/atmos-optimus-510-clearomizer/ It looks like some of the atmos batteries have a "510" connection which is the industry standard, hopefully that's the case. The Atmos 510 Pro-T is a knock off of the kangertech Kanger Pro Tank (don't know if it's 1,2, or 3 gen they cloned it from but looks like one or two at quick glance) If it does have a 510 connection (probably Atmos on the outside threads and 510 on the inside threads) the possibilities are pretty much endless. I like Both the Pro Tank by Kanger and the Nautilus/Davide Bottom Dual Coil tank or cartomizers like these http://www.worldofvape.com/anyvape-davide-bdc-glassomizer/ The Pro Tank Mini or Kanger Evod tanks would probably fit on your battery if it's pen style but I'm not sure if they are 510 connections. If anyone is more familiar with the Atmos RX stuff, do you know if Roxabox's model has ego threads as well as 510 or if it's just proprietary and 510 combination?

I will say that Compenstine and his juice pretty much was the answer to what i've been "chasing" The down side is that now I have a lot of juice that just doesn't cut it, I'm sure with Fadora a lot of it is flavor, but there's also more to it in my opinion. If anyone can help solve what's causing this problem (which is very unfortunate) my money's on Compenstine. His juice is so extraordinary, my girlfriend asked me to find another term because she was tired of hearing me talk about another man's juice and my great awakening.

Yeah I started on RDA's and just got a new mod just for that. I'm going to be picking your brain on stainless steel wicks soon That's definitely going to cut back on my tank usage. I still need the clearos though for some things I want to do where dripping and rewicking isn't an option sometimes. Something else I use the clearos for also is when I use my old ego batteries and a clearomizer for a loaner setup when I bring new converts to the vaping world.

I need some advice from you guys, I've been searching and looking since before I became a member but never found quite what I was looking for. I need to buy a lot of cheapish clearomizers or cartomizers that will have a decent vape, for trying and changing flavors, and to have as backups. I'll be ordering like 10 or 15 eventually, although I will order some small batches to find out which fit me best. I like to be able to have two spare tanks of juice, and also when I clean them I like to let them dry completely and that way while some are cleaning others are vaping. They aren't really going to be my daily drivers, I'll be using better clearomizers and RBA's for my all day vape. These will be for the flavors I only vape when I'm having a sugar craving or want to swap flavors for a little while when dripping isn't practical for me. In case its helpful: My likes are - Aspire ETS clearomizer, iClear 30S (only the 30S not the regular 30) and Vista Nova tank from Vista Vapors. My dislike: iClear 30 - This tank is way to airy of a draw for me. I like a tighter draw which is why I like the 30S so much better.

I had exactly the same problem with an Aspire tank, I thought I burnt it. It turned out, I wasn't only using a new tank, I had put new juice in the new tank. I saved a bottle especially to put in the new tank. The juice was my problem, it tasted exactly like a burnt with but it was really that the juice hadn't steeped and the alchol/chemicals hadn't evaporated. Before throwing out the coil I decided to change juice to what I knew was good because I had been vaping it. The tried and true juice was PERFECT and that's all I changed. It's definitely something to consider, but once you get it right, the Aspire ETS is my favorite above all my other clearo/cartomizers

EDIT Update: I just thought of something, try putting on the tank without the beauty ring but do not screw it tight, just barely snug it down with the firing pin making contact, as soon as you get it where you think it's touching try it and see if it shows the ohm reading, if it doesn't, turn it a lil more, try it, etc so you don't push the pin down further into the MVP after it makes the connection. When you press both buttons does it give you the resistance correctly? It's a connection issue, if it's just right it will make enough connection to read the resistance but not enough to fire the pin, probably part of its protection system. usually about a 1/4 turn will allow the tank to make enough contact to work great, if it's where the ohm reading works but it doesn't fire. If you get a "non" when you press the two buttons to get ohm readings, then it's not making contact at all. You may need to very slightly pull the MVP 2.0 center pin up or pull the center contact out of the iclear 30. I have an MVP 2.0 and have seen this very issue. It's like a nano thousandth of a millimeter that it needs to make contact probably and very gently prying up on the center pin with basically no enough force to feel like you're doing anything will solve it.

Yes it sounds like it's a "firing pin" problem to me. All the different little bits of information seem to support a firing pin issue. Different tanks have different firing pin "depths" and so some tanks will make contact with the firing pin perfect for each other. Other tanks will have longer firing pins so if the threads are tightened all the way down, it actually pushes the pin down in the battery, and the problem with this is that it might work great, but then the user puts the original tank back on and the pin wont make contact. Usually the battery pin is supposed to be stationary, and if there's any adjustment people try to adjust the tank side contact. Some tanks have adjustable center pins but more often than not, they're not adjustable but people can get enough wiggle room to achieve contact. If the pin on the battery is actually pushed down further into the battery than it was before, needle nose pliars are the best bet to try and save it but it can be really hard to find some with a nose to fit inside the ego connection but around the pin to grab it. I had an RDA push the pin in my MVP 2.0 down, and couldn't find the right needle nose pliars but I read a solution someone else used and it worked for me. The distance required may be smaller than what we can even notice with the naked eye. What worked for me was using a small flathead screw driver and gently (oh so very gently) prying the pin up by going side to side back and fourth. It's a very slight movement, to me I didn't even feel that it lifted, but sure enough I screwed on a tank with no contact that my MVP 2.0 wouldn't even read before I adjusted the pin, expecting it wouldn't work since I could barely tell I lifted it, and it made great contact before I even screwed it on all the way. I'm way more careful now and I don't screw any of my tanks past the "snug against the mod" point. I could probably force another whole turn on the threads, but I know it would push that pin down enough to not connect with some of my tanks/clearomizers. I would examine that pin, make sure first theres no gunk or buildup on it so you can get the most out of the connection you do establish. Check it, hopefully its not loose or having a real broken connection inside. If it looks pretty normal first I would see if you can get any more length out of the pin on the tank you want to use most, I've seen people say they can pull the pin out a touch by using a paperclip in the 510 tank connection contact. If you can't get anything out of the tank, then I'd try to slightly pull up on your battery firing pin with needlenose pliars or the screwdriver method I mentioned above. unless theres a way to dismantle your particular battery and adjust it that way which might be safer. I'd set it for your daily driver tank first if possible since you know that one was working with no problems before trying the new tank. then once you get it back up and going solidly, you can look at trying to also get the other tank connecting but make absolutely sure that you don't undo everything you just did by forcing a connection that doesn't match up well. Look at the bright side, I would kill to have the option of having to go back to the store, I don't have stores within a hundred miles so it's an order only situation.

I clean my clearomizers/cartomizers about once a week or so, usually I'm cleaning it to change flavors as much as anything else. I have ordered an Aspire Nautilus and PT3 on order but they're back ordered so currently I'm using an Aspire ET-S stainless clearomizer, Innokin iClear 30S and iClear-30. The 30 has long wicks, don't like it that much or how it vapes. So I try flavors I might not like in it, so my daily driver tanks aren't down a few days with flavor I don't like. I take them apart and rinse off the tank, caps and things that are non absorbable with hot water. Then I put everything in a container of 91% alcohol, like the "rubbing" type from walgreens except it's the 91% instead of the one labeled rubbing alcohol that's only seventy something percent.. I let them soak overnight usually, then I take em out, dry them as much as I can with a lint free towel or rinse the non absorbent parts again, set it all on a papertowel covered paper plate and let it dry until the next day at least. I tried soaking a partially clogged Aspire coil unit in alcohol but I made the mistake of dry burning it afterwords and of course it burned the wick and was awful so I have to test another coil and try it without the dry burn part and see what happens. Some people say that their coils last darn near forever if they soak them in alcohol once a week to de-gunk them. FYI - No amount of alcohol will remove peanut butter from one of my cheap clearomizers, so some strong, stubborn flavors will remain behind even with a week of alcohol soaking/submerging and even with swooshing it around twice a day.