charliestheman

So I got my Kanger Aero Adapter protank bottom, 510 - Ego adapter and Aspire Nautilus tank and 5 pack of coils, and some lil pouch things I have no idea what to do with but they were cheap, no idea what I was thinking when I bought them lol. Three for $60 each or three for $60 total??

They should put a grape-nuts label on there. No one under 70 would touch it.

This is one of my favorite cartomizer/clearomizers, it's definitely worth a shot to try at least once when you're ordering stuff. Honestly this $7 is above some $25 to $35 tank setups IMO http://www.sweet-vapes.com/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=vmj_color_plus.tpl&product_id=3259&category_id=90 It uses Aspire coil units that are replaceable, and it seems to be a tighter draw compared to my other tanks which I like

Welcome to the site. Finding the right setup and good e-juice was VERY important in my journey of e-cigarettes and such. I didn't really even mean to quit smoking but I did, with the help of my ego to MVP2 upgrade and good e-liquid. The difference in REALLY good and average/mediocre was like the difference in night and day for me. Sorry got busy in a meeting and never hit submit, this was actually the first reply when I started it. Watermelon is my favorite too! It's my daily vape, I REALLY suggest Fadora juice if you like watermelon, this comes ready to vape, get the extra shots of flavor, it's not overpowering, it's delicious, and a better more authentic flavor IMO, hard to put into words http://www.fadoravapor.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_10&products_id=54 If you can live with a slightly bigger e-cigarette, I HIGHLY reccomend the Innokin MVP 2.0 which can be had as cheap as $35 brand new. It even comes with a pretty good tank (also called a cartomizer or clearomizer). My first order of e-juice was 12 mg nicotine level, and I was still smoking a few cigarettes a day. When I stepped up to 18 mg nicotine and found a flavor that I really liked, it allowed me to quit smoking. Personally, I smoked camel wide full flavor (started with non filters but changed to wides eventually) and wasn't into menthol or flavors. However with vaping, I find most of the tobacco flavors yucky, and I REALLY like sweet fruit flavors like watermelon and grape. Fadora Vapors sells the MVP 2.0 for $48 which is about $5 more than I paid for mine on a huge clearance sale at a large mail order store, and I didn't get the great customer service from them that I've had with Fadora. I really recommend the Fadora juice. Usually, when you order custom made to order high end e-liquid, it needs to "steep" or "age" like whiskey or wine does, but it usually takes 1 or 2 weeks to a month something like that. However, Fadora arrives at your door ready to vape. They have sample packs too, I've tried all three lines and have liked everything so far that I've tried. Here's the MVP 2.0 http://www.fadoravapor.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_36&products_id=119 Here's the e-liquid link http://www.fadoravapor.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 The Innokin VV3 is closer to the same form factor of the Ego and it also runs around $35 or so http://www.innokin.com/itaste-vv-express-kit.html

There's a good chance it's either air draw or the liquid isn't wicking as fast as you're firing. Are you using organic cotton or silica for the wick? I'd guess it's silica since it came from a shop build, I'd think they'd use it because of the user friendliness, long lasting nature of silica. If it's silica, when you're looking at the coils and wick, does it look like the wick could easily be removed and replaced? As in there's not some fancy routing/knot work that you wouldn't be able to reproduce if you removed the wick to reinsert it? If it's a normal wick that can easily be replaced, and it's made of silica, I suggest picking up a bag of organic cotton balls when you pass by like a CVS or Wallgreens something like that, if you can get in the same vicinity as one sometime soon. If you are able to get some organic cotton, let me know and I might can help out. It should run about $3 for a huge bag that equates to like a 1 year supply lol.

I submitted an official comment per CASAA's request, sent them the tracking ID number, then I wrote a letter to my state representative since we have some family ties to them. I even refrained from being a smartass to ensure the serious voice was heard lol.

I've had a few orders from sweet-vapes.com and they've been great, really fast with packing and shipping, as far as click the pay button and having the goods at my door. Also for coils, if Fadora starts selling custom protank coils I highly recommend them, comp can wrap some kangertech coil units

I'd suggest an ohm meter, and if you want to build say a 1.5 ohm dual coil setup, it will take 2 three ohm coils. So aim for 3 ohms and build your first coil, see what it reads on the ohm meter and once you have it right, make a twin for it. So say 10 wraps comes out to be 3.0 ohms, then make an identical 10 wrap coil, test it and make sure it's reading the same ohm load, and wire that dude up. For wicks, I much prefer organic cotton balls. I pull off a section, and then place it between my hands like I'm warming them up so it twists it up. Then I take a scrap of wire and bend it in half, hook my twist of cotton in the middle and pull it through the coils which gives me a double wick, then I cut the ends off about 1/16 inch or so from the coil. The Majority of my cotton is inside the coil and its pressing nicely against the wire which is what I like. I then super-soak the cotton with juice, it's gotta be completely soaked or it will go "poof" With a nice setup like you've got you really can't go wrong as long as you use an ohm meter. Start out shooting for about 1.6 to 1.8 ohms and go from there. I think 1.5 is a nice number since you can aim for 3 ohms for your first coil. If it's 2.2 when you put it on the ohm meter, wrap a couple more coils and it will increase. If the ohms are high, just unwrap a coil or two and test again. Either a nice workbench with a vise or some vise grips or c clamps on a drill bit, or a girlfriend with a firm grip to hold something while you twist the first few comes in really handy IMO.

It wont go above the 11 watts IMO, regardless of where its set. It will fire well below 2 ohms, but you can tell when you take a 1.6 or 1.8 ohm coil build on an RDA from something like a DNA 20 at 5 volts or 11 watts and drop it on the MVP, it will fire it but it's not matching the power output it shows, it will take a long time to get the coils to glow or hot enough to produce vapor, usually around when it starts making vapor, the timer shuts it off. If you were to use an inline meter I would guess that you would see the 5 volt output dip quite a bit when you pull a load on it like a big vape where it's trying to keep up. Even with a 2 or 2.2 ohm build if you fire it at 11 watts you can feel how hot the battery gets trying to keep up with the current that's being pulled. My sweet spot on my MVP 2.0 and RDA coils was 2.2 ohms single coil in voltage mode maxed out. It would have an obvious drop off under load but would still vape quite decent. For some real numbers and charts, PBusardo did a hell of a job with the MVP 2.0 in my opinion. There's links to this in other threads by just in case people haven't seen those and run across this thread

Welcome to the site. I smoked a pack, pack and a half a day, been cigarette free about 20 days. For about a week I smoked a couple of cigarettes a day. A big trigger for me was that I smoked in the truck, so when I left work to go home, or headed to work, lighting a cigarette was instinct. One of the first things I did was quit smoking in the truck. I let it air out as much as I could, cleaned it well, and got an air freshener. Went a few days ( just guessing maybe 4 days) where I smoked 2 or three cigarettes a day but didn't smoke in the truck. At work going outside with my smoking buddies for a vape was a bad idea, I'd end up getting a cigarette so I quit doing that. After getting past the truck part and getting my nicotine level high enough (for me it was going from 12 to 18 but we're all different) and getting a good setup, it was easier than I expected.) The first week or so was the toughest, I had to make a conscious decision to hit the carto when I had a craving instead of lighting a cigarette. But each day it got easier, and that along with not putting too much pressure on myself, worked well for me. It was actually the MVP 2.0, good ejuice, and a few different cartomizers to figure out what juice I really liked that did the trick. If I hadn't gotten into the hobby/enthusiast aspect of vaping though, I'm not sure if I would have been successful. These guys and gals have been quite supportive, and a good bit of fun along the way.

I got in my Fadora Grape and Strawberry 30 mils on Saturday, was too busy vapin and mother's daying/birthdaying over the weekend to post the update. Also on Friday I got in my Craft Vapery juice of the month type subscription box. For anyone considering it, my box was well worth it, and my "flavor curator" managed to put together the first set of juices from anywhere besides Fadora that I've ordered and really liked. I got a Standard Vapor Cell Block Four bottle - OMG this is some good dessert vape And the best part, I reorganized my vaping boxes last night with all the crisp assorted zipper baggies that came with my last two Fadora orders. Also got a donated battery, Evod cartomizer, and USB charger from an anonymous friend over the weekend, to give to my friend Brent that started vaping with me and is going to give up the ciggs it's looking like (he's already cut back to a fourth what he was burning.)

You got it, the On/Off switch on the bottom is for the power output, like if you plug in a cell phone to charge or any other USB device, it works like an external battery bank. The On/Off switch controls that output from to the USB power supply to the other device. If I think of any other quirks/learn as you go type things I'll let you know, but it sounds like you pretty much got it all figured out. Oh something I learned is don't overtighten carto tanks, they will push the center pin down if the tank itself has a center pin. I think it happens often but people don't notice because they use the same tank usually, but if you have one tank with a long center pin it will push the pin down if you screw it far enough on the threads, and then if you take it off and your other tank has a short center pin there might not be enough threads to make contact. I did that and the fix was to get a tiny screwdriver and very gently pry up on the center pin back and fourth side to side. It only makes like a nano-millimeter's but when it comes to firing a tank it's like the difference in night and day. Now what I do is tighten the carto down to where its finger snug, and if the pin makes good contact but the 510 connection isn't as solid as I'd like, I'll screw the beauty ring up a thread or so, so that the connection is solid between the 510 connection and the ego threads for the beauty ring, but my cartomizer isn't pressed down completely against the top of the MVP 2.0. It's hard to describe, but it lets the beauty ring and tank press against each other for a super solid connection, like hammer nails type solid, but doesn't force the center pin down into the mod. I learned that the hard way and the reason I thought of that incident was to tell you that if you ever go to take it apart, the button will keep the top part from coming out of the case until you push it through its housing lol. And also, the center pin isn't adjustable that I could find by taking the top off the mod with those allen screws so it's gotta be "friction lifted."

Yours is working as its supposed to where pressing both buttons at once will show ohm followed by voltage for capacity. Holding down the P or V (looks like a U but it's a V for Voltage) either one will show your puff counter followed by that setting where you tap it. I'm not sure about the manual, but holding down both buttons (well actually its just a press now that I think about it) should show ohms followed by a voltage readout which tells you the batteries remaining capacity. Setting wattage like you're already doing is the way to go, so sounds like you're already doing everything just right. I've never seen mine cycle all four readouts or read in any of the forum users instructions that it should, I have my manual I can check and see if mines wrong (well different from what it really does). I'm usually a manual reader, but in this case I read several how to guide type threads and I don't know if I ever read the manual after I learned how to use it, and if I read it before I used it, I was such a noob I didn't know what I was looking at wasn't how it worked lol. Nice catch on that.

My protank 2 will sometimes taste burnt at 8 or 8.5 but then with my Aspire clearomizers I can vape at 9 or 9.5 often without problems. Liquid can be sort of inconsistent too regardless of the tank. BTW after taking a picture of my DNA 30 I forgot to adjust the voltage and took a big ole drag at 30 watts, I mean a biiiig lung hit one hitter quitter, whew big mistake lol. Also with the protank, I can't chain vape quite as quick without burning the wick as some of my other tanks

I really think a regulated device might be in order for you, something with Variable Voltage or Variable Wattage. Something like the MVP 2.0 would be good, it was my main device for a while and I'll probably never get rid of it. But if you're building really low ohm builds on the fogger you might need something with more power. Either that or consider going with something like Nautilus Aspire tank up top, for more of the "set it and forget it" convenience. With variable wattage, the device will sense what ohm resistance your coils you make are, and then adjust the voltage to give you the correct wattage. Of course, most of the regulated devices aren't designed for super sub 1 ohm cloud blowing competition type atomizer custom coil rebuilds. But if one will work for you, will allow you to start at lower power and keep bumping it up until it begins to taste burnt, then back it down one step. It will also give you a more consistent output regardless of battery capacity, unlike the mechanical mods. The MVP 2.0 runs around $45 U.S. when purchased online, sometimes on sale they're like $38. Other people more familiar with mechanical mods can point you in a better direction than me for devices that your Kick or whatever external voltage regulator you have will fit inside of.

The coil's almost always the culprit for me when the draw gets harder, like you're pulling a vacuum on the tank, in a tank like that where the coil/wick is one unit like that. But since it's an aerotank, if it's like the protank coil assemblys, you can recoil it yourself quite easily and rewick it. Rip Tripppers has good protank coiling videos on youtube. Of course that's not for everyone and if you wanted to build coils you might use an RDA in the first place, so a replacement stock kanger coil might fix you right up. I believe www.fadoravapors.com is going to be building custom coils, I think I saw that on the website. But regardless if you coil it yourself or buy coil units someone else recoiled, they'll give you even more vapor and also have longer lifetimes, and you'll be able to easily pull the wick, dry burn them and rewick them with organic cotton from cotton balls like at CVS or Walgreens.

It's freaking amazing. I just can't believe how good the vape is, even at exactly the same wattage, voltage, and ohms with a clearomizer. And Yes my girlfriend is truly a blessing, Charlie's Angel took on a whole new meaning after receiving her into my life. She's definitely way more than I deserve, and we have an incredible relationship. My angel coming along changed my entire life. I'm a handful to deal with, and she takes it all in stride and is the most supportive woman I could ever ask for. I work 60 hours a week normally and often more.

I hope you get this rectified in the best way possible and continue to do business with Evolv or one of their dealers, I'll definitely be buying some DNA 30's from you in the future. After vaping from a DNA 30 I can't imagine going back anything else really. I see my mechs being more of a novelty for sitting at home in my vape lounge now that I've had Proteus' DNA deep in my chest

So today my life was changed. I happened to get really really lucky, and not in the naughty kinda way, it's better! It was definitely fate, but I crossed paths with a genuine DNA 30. After Tam and Compenstine answered my very noob questions, and I got my first order of really good juice from Fadora, I was ready for a better vape. I was sent a dripper by a buddy, and built some coils that didn't produce much on the MVP because the ohms were too low for the current. I knew more mods were coming but that I decided sooner rather than later. I was watching Proteus' build threads, I grew up in a machine shop. I decided to PM him and ask if he had any cheap beginners mods laying around. He didn't but did have a DNA 30 that wasn't for sale but might be later. I thought "yeah right I can't afford that." But I happened to mention it to my girlfriend who knew about the upcoming clones, and we discussed ohms law and Evolv while waiting at school at midnight for our daughters field trip to return. Well being the amazing woman she is, here's my birthday present The vape is truly unbelievable. Flavors I didn't even like before are delicious and I'm still in my 2 ohm dual coil build I built for the DNA last night. And Proteus, the pictures didn't do this mod justice. I was speechless, it's "rub across my face to feel the texture" kind of beautiful. It fits my hand like a glove! It's so tiny but the battery lasts soooo long even at 2 ohms and 16 watts. Thank you man. And thanks to all of you for answering my questions, and also to the member who replied about helping my friend out who needs some starting supplies. I gave him my only Ego battery and can't part with my only backup device just yet, in case of catastrophe.

I seriously thought I was the only one that got that excited about the baggies when my order came in from Comp. And no it's got nothing to do with my sketchy past, strictly my OCD

After reading the thread again, why not just get an MVP 2 mod and an Aspire Nautilus glassomizer type tank. It would fit the bill and make pretty decent clouds. Personally, I haven't bought an RDA yet that came out of the box with a good coil. The coils and wicks are consumables, like fuel filters and petroleum in an automobile. But with a tank like the Nautilus Aspire, which some of the experts are rating as one of the best tanks with premade coils due to the performance, you can have replacable prebuilt coil units already wicked and everything. They even come in 5 packs. Since you don't want to learn about batteries and things you definitely want something like the MVP 2.0 with a built in non removable battery with regulated power and safety cutoffs. It's non harm proof but there's less of a chance of screwing it up or having a bad vape due to poorly built coils. Every rebuildable RBA/RDA that I've ordered so far had really poor factory coils included with a lil baggy of parts to make my own properly even if I didn't have wire and cotton balls. None of the stock coils worked as well as my $5 cartomizers although with a non regulated battery it may have been different, defniitely wouldn't have lasted longer than a few days though until it needed replacing.

It sounds to me like the wattage may be too high, or your draw is too light to wick the fluid up the wick as fast as you're firing back to back. Are you running about 7.5 or 8 wattage wise? I would definitely try power mode at it's lowest settings. I don't think the reading being off .1 or .2 would cause as much of a problem as you're having. It should take longer to break in the coils than you're getting out of their whole lifespan, you might try soaking them in alcohol, rinsing them and letting them dry and then trying them again since you're throwing so many away on their first day. It could be that the particular juice you're running doesn't wick as well on the Nautilus as it does on the Kanger, so that might be worth a try. Also, are you dry burning the coils in the Nautilus, I made that mistake although it was more of a test, I kind of expected it to be bad. A very quick dry burn with just a tap of the button burnt the crap out of the wick. But that was with a completely clean and dry coil unit. Are you running 1.6 ohm coils in the Nautilus? If so you especially need to have the VW on a low setting. Have you tried changing the air flow to create a different draw that will help pull the fluid up the wick more?

It really could be many things, if it's a metallic taste it could be the mouthpiece. Have to tried washing with warm soapy water? You may try taking out the coil unit and soaking it in 91% alcohol then rinsing it real good and letting it dry completely then trying it. If the wick didn't prime/soak long enough it may have gotten burnt a little, but that will be a burnt taste. There is something on some kanger coils called the "flavor wick" that people remove to enhance the flavor, vape better, and prevent dry hits. Have you tried that? Is the taste completely constant or do you get a decent hit and taste and then the next hit may taste funny?

Personally I can't say enough good things about the MVP 2.0. Your post is like a carbon copy of my same exact thoughts about a month ago. I was worried the box would be a problem. I was very wrong, it's not a problem at all and I'm now in love with the form factor. If the MVP 2.0 was 75 bucks I would tell you to buy it. However at $40, I'm telling you that it's crazy not to buy it. My best friend has gotten into vaping and thought his spinner knockoff was the best thing ever. I convinced him to buy the MVP 2.0 by telling him that if he didn't like it, I would buy it for his cost plus 20 bucks extra. The VV3 is a nice device for what it is, but in my opinion the MVP 2.0 is closer to the "must have" side, while the VV3 is on the other end of the spectrum at "would be nice to have in addition to the MVP 2.0 if I find it for a steal, but there's no immediate need". If possible to send him your business, one of our awesome members and the best juice chef around in my opinion, Compenstine w/ Fadora Vapors has the MVP 2.0 showing in stock and is having a store wide sale right now. You can get up to 25% off http://www.fadoravapor.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_36&products_id=119 Oh and also, you're exactly right about being able to still use your ego style batteries when you need something tiny. I swap setups back and fourth and don't have any problems with the center pins being different lengths on different cartos or anything like that. I'm currently using 2 Aspire ET-S cartomizers with their 1.8 ohm coils, a protank 3, and iClear 30S (bought it seperate from MVP 2.0 and I like it much better than the iClear 30 regular in case that's helpful. I also have 3 rebuildable dripping atomizers I'm using when I direct drip, the MVP 2.0 works great in single coil and dual coil although dual coil 2 ohm RDA setups eat battery quickly, but it's because I'm running high ohm/high power output. I have an Aspire Nautilus that I paid for thats stuck on backorder but the Nautilus Aspire and MVP 2.0 are a match made in heaven IMO.

Wrapping coils is quite easy, you don't have to do the crazy "diamond nano micro flux capacitor" type builds. Start with a nice dual coil build. You really only build one coil then you match the other one (checking they test out even though) Just get a 1/16 or so drill bit (by your location comment I'm thinking you probably have one somewhere close) and wrap wire around it not over lapping. I started by doing a 12 coil wrap and putting it on the ohm meter. If you want a 1 ohm dual coil build, you're shooting for a 2 ohm coil. If it's less, add more wraps and test that. Once the ohm is right, make a twin with the same number of wraps. Pinch off some cotton from an organic cotton ball ($3 a bag at CVS) and place it in the palm of your hand, then slide hands back and fourth like you're warming them up, and poke it into the coil so it sticking out both ends like a mustache, trim the ends down to 1/4 inch or so on each end. Get you 100 foot of 28 guage and ideally you may want to have a little 30 guage on hand too http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Resistance_Wire/RW0118.html That's a decent setup you've posted but other members can probably link you individually to something they'd recommend over it. I'll grab some links. Here's the cotton balls http://www.cvs.com/shop/product-detail/CVS-100-Cotton-Triple-Size-Organic-Cotton-Balls?skuId=405326 Ohm Meter http://www.sweet-vapes.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&category_id=69&flypage=vmj_color_plus.tpl&product_id=3460&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=84