Tom74

noted... Thank you.

Seeing a nice cloud of vapor when I exhale is part of the whole mental stimulation for me when im vaping but flavor is equally important to me as well. Gotta have both.

Innokin just came out with an adapter tube for the cool fire 1 so you can now use 18650 batteries. https://www.facebook.com/Innokin.Technology/photos/pcb.626081710796678/626081344130048/?type=1&theater

Support your LOCAL artisan!

Yea, The Cool Fire 2 also uses an 18350. Its only good for about 3-4 hours of constant vaping. Im an Innokin fan also. Just got myself an itaste 134 and its my primary vaping device now. I keep the Cool Fire 2 nearby and loaded up with a different flavor for the sake of having some variety.

Try this place for excellent prices, variety and quality e-juice hardware etc...: http://www.exoticvapors.net/default.asp

I have quite a few tanks myself, of all different sizes. I went to my local Vape shop looking for a multiple tank stand and they referred me to a local wood worker who can build a custom block with different sized bores to fit your tanks. Other than that Ive searched the internet for tank stands and havent really found anything useful.

I have a Cool Fire 2. Fits perfectly in the palm of your hand and has a nice weight to it. It comes with an iclear 30b tank but im not impressed with the performance of it. In my opinion the unit produces much better flavor, and vapor with a kanger EVOD or Protank. Just my 2 cents.

Generally this is how its done... But I have always noticed, even after "Cleaning" the coil, there is still always a residual taste of whatever flavor you vaped with it the first time. If having the best quality flavor and vapor production is most important to you then just replace the coil with a new one. How to separate the iclear 30b (watch the first minute and 20 seconds of the video) http://youtu.be/uPtWiQN6UTA How to dry burn:

I was thinking about doing that but I don't want to risk possibly loosening any connections in the unit by disassembling it again. Im just happy its back to perfect working condition. It's a pretty straight forward approach though. Unscrew the 7 screws from the top of the unit, unscrew the 7 stainless steel rods that are threaded into the mid section, gently move the firing button assembly to one side and use a nut driver to remove the 3 5mm nuts that hold the variable wattage ring in place. Once you have the nuts removed gently lift up on the VW ring. There is a plate below it with 5 small holes in it where each individual ball bearing sits in. You almost have to use tweezers to handle the ball bearings all while your trying to keep the unit steady because you dont have it completely disassembled. I tried removing the bottom section (battery section) of the unit first so it would make it easier to work on just the control head but it seems that the 8 stainless steel rods on the lower half of the unit are press fitted into the mid section of the body of the unit and the are hollow, so I wasn't about to risk grasping them with pliers and trying to yank them out.

Just an update... The 134 is still hitting like a champ. I can officially call it fixed. Wonder if anyone else has ever had this issue before.

The 134 comes with an iclear 30 but I find that with the 134 kanger protanks put off waaaaay better hits.

Wow! no one is going to believe this... So I decided screw it! At worse its a loss so why not disassemble it just to see if I cant find what went wrong. After tediously removing the 8 thin stainless steel rods from the top half of the 134 I was able to access the firing button and its circuit board. Then, below that, there were 3 5mm nuts holding a retention plate for the Variable Wattage ring... Got those off and I noticed something peculiar when I got a view at under the wattage ring. There are 5 very small ball bearings that the Variable Wattage ring sits on and one of the bearings had been somehow thrown out of its well, I suspected this could possibly have been the reason I was feeling an extremely hot sensation on the VW ring since this misplaced ball bearing was grounding out the battery and causing the wacky light show. Got all the ball bearings back into place (took like 4 tries) tightened everything back down and BAM! This sucker is firing like Rambo again!!! EVERY TIME! I got my babyback, babyback, babyback!!! So happy!!!! Thanks for all the helpful input but sometimes I guess you gotta just get your hands dirty if you want to get something done!!!

Well at Least It came in a pretty little case which I can now lay it in so it can be at eternal rest. LOL!

Luckily I have an innokin cool fire 2 VW that Im using as a backup for now. Doesn't come close to as fine as the 134 would hit (when it was working) but oh well, gotta make good with what you got I guess.

Its totally fried.... The indicator light on the fire button is blinking randomly (red, green, yellow) in no particular order, even when im not touching the button. This totally sucks because I ordered the thing from China and now, even if they will exchange it, I have to pay to get it shipped all the way over there and probably wont get the replacement for at least 3 weeks... Damn...and I was under the impression that innokin made some quality products.

WEIRD! I noticed when I hold down the fire button and it doesnt fire, If I give it a hard shake with the button still depressed it will fire up immediately. WTF!? The body of the unit is getting very hot at times (Not the tank/battery connection area). When this happend the last time I pulled out the battery immediately and it was cool to the touch so I know the battery isn't overheating, its the circuitry.

I have noticed when I hold down the fire button then twist the VW ring at the same time it will kick it into firing. Either way its still some type of malfunction.

Im using an IMR 18650 high drain unprotected "Flat Top" battery which I read was the suggested type for the 134 but ive read on other threads that some people are using button top 18650s. Still.... It doesnt make sense, it worked flawlessly for the first straight week with a flat top 18650.

I regularly dry out my tank/battery connection on the unit with a Q-tip. I havent noticed any excessive liquid on it anytime recently.

I know its not a problem with my tanks. Its been firing perfectly now for the past hour. I have no idea what has possessed this thing!

I purchased my Itaste 134 from a vendor in China through ebay about 3 weeks ago. I recieved it last week. I know its an origional innokin product because I ran the authentication code through innokin's website and it cleared. So I popped in my imr 18650 battery and started vaping just fine... no problemes what so ever. It was working fantastic. Then just yesterday It started putting out inconsistent hits. It would hit weak on a few tries, then it would go back to full force. Im depressing the fire button firmly so I know its not that issue. The unit is also getting hot to the touch (around the VW ring) sometimes just from holding the fire button down for as little as 4 seconds. I know its not a shorted out coil head either. I have 2 kanger protank II's a kanger evod and 2 iclear 30's and the units is acting the same with all of them. Does anyone have any ideas what is going on here!?