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Joshuab3687

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Everything posted by Joshuab3687

  1. Yep, thats the one! Sorry, I got post happy and didn't check what everyone else was posting. Lol! Yeah Yamankafozi, that one unscrews from the one just to the left of it
  2. I dont think its a floater Joe. I bet when it came from the factory, they ran it all the way in tight to keep it from vibrating out when shipping. Same way my AR mod and Panzer clone was. Damn pin was ran in and tight.
  3. See the smaller diameter pin at the far right? That unscrews from the slightly larger one that its up against on the left of it
  4. I'll show you what mine looks like: Thats the pin run all the way in. The next is the pin unscrewed
  5. Ok, your adjustable positive pin is screwed all the way in. If its stuck, you'll need to use a small pair of needlenose pliers and gently twist the smaller contact counterclockwise. Once it loosens with the pliers, you can do it by hand. The one that adjusts is the smaller post thats nestled up close to the bigger one in your first pic.
  6. Well, the debate between "authentic" & "clones" will rage on forever. I have a few authentic RDAs and mods, as well as clones. When it comes to the individual designs, there is no "best". Only whats best for you. Each design has its own pro's & con's. As far as the difference between auth and clones, well, the authentics are gonna have better build quslity and probably superior metals. With that said, I have found some clone RDAs to be a good investment. If you are looking into building your own coils and getting into mechanical mods, here's a few things you'll need: 1. A good understsnding of Ohm's Law 2. An even better understanding of battery safety. 3. An ohms checker/reader 4. Coil building knowledge 5. A mod of your choice ( auth or clone ) 6. A couple "good" batteries. ( A good majority of us that use mechs use Sony vtc4's, vtc5's, or MNKE's) Many of us on this forum that use mechanical mods are EXTREMELY safety oriented, so if you get pointed questions or perhaps a sharp rebuke, its because we are passionate about vaping and this lifestyle. We don't wanna see anyone's face on the 6 o'clock news because a new person to mechanical mods blew their face off. Alway Vape Safe Hope this helps For what its worth, I'd get the copper Nemesis clone and a 22mm Patriot clone. They are good to start out with and the larger deck of the Patriot atomizer is easy to build coils on
  7. Or... Lol!!! Sorry! Brain just took the first exit onto the Gutter Highway!
  8. That one that Jeff just posted holds 2x 26650 batteries. I can't imagine a mod any bigger than that! I could use that thing as a tire thumper!
  9. Holy crap! Heavier than the VTR? I can think of only one heavier than that, and its the E-Huge Vamo. Did it look like this?: http://www.modsandatties.com/en/home/129-the-e-huge-mod-whole-kit.html
  10. Ok, take the top cap off (the part that the atomizer screws onto). You should see a contact pin (it may be copper, silver, or brass). It should unscrew. Unscrew it a little, then re-attach it with the battery in the mod. If the battery still rattles, unscrew the pin a little more. Let me know if it helps
  11. Guess I haven't seen that. If you come across it again, see if you can snap a pic of it.
  12. The size depends on the battery. My Panzer is modular, in that sections unscrew from each other to fit 3 different lengths of the 18000 series battery. The 18 delineates the diameter. The last 3 numbers delineates the lenth. So, an 18650 means it's 18mm wide and 65mm long. As far as some being so huge as to seem "obscene" , its sometimes all in the design. I now have the "Hades" mod clone, and it is designed for the 26650 battery. Typically the lithium-ion batteries we use are designed in such a way to allow for longer periods of vape time or higher power to the coils that we build depending on the ohms. My Sony 18650 vtc4's are a 30amp battery which is good for sub-ohming. My Hades mod takes the Sony 26650 vt 50amp battery, which is a freakin power house! It lasts longer and hits much harder. I can also go lower ohms on my coil builds with the 50amp 26650 if I chose to do so. Which I won't. The lowest ohm I go is 0.24. But with 26650, a person could go much lower. I like the cloud chasing I do with my builds, but I'll never compete in the cloud chasing competitions. So, I personally don't feel the need to go any lower ohms than I'm at now. I hope that helps
  13. Good listing Joe! Now you can go back to bed! Lol
  14. Thanks for the link Joe! Just ordered one! Thats a REALLY good price for a 28mm dripper! Had to snag one! Lol Sorry Ma, it ain't purple. Maybe have to do what Joe said and try to find a purple Cerakote and coat it! Lol
  15. Its gonna need a little modding work though. Its a Fasttech clone and they used the black PVD coating on everthing, including the threads. Has a nasty voltage drop. Gonna have to use a brass wire wheel on my Dremel and get the black off the threads. After that, it should read no more than 0.1 VD.
  16. I've gotta agree with 3Rutez. Lets try to include the site where to get it when we post a delicious flavor.
  17. I find no problem with clones. If you wanna talk RDAs/RBA, we have a sub-forum under the "Hardware Specific" - "Rebuildable Atomizers".
  18. Well, I better turn in. Gotta head up to Elkhart, Indiana for delivery on monday. G'nite all!
  19. Checked out the fatty v3. Its only 22mm wide as well. Drat!
  20. Does the battery tend to rattle in the mod? If so, then the battery is not making a solid connection. Does the top cap of your mod have an adjustable positive connection pin?
  21. I feel secure enuff in myself to rock a purple mod. Now, if we could just get the manufacturers to coat em in that! Lol
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