Joshuab3687

Some of the red 18650's are button tops. That might account for having to shorten it with those. I have the same one you do and have noticed the same thing. My pin is only in about 1 full turn. As long as I take the battery out of the bottom and leave the top cap alone, it'll stay put.

Oh, we're doin great! Just been to Knoxville to load and now we're on our way to Marion, IL. I thought about BCarter as we were heading out. I think thats where he lives.

See, Comp! Ya just gotta press him a little and all the links fall out! Lol Thanks for all that bro! You da man!

Stopped early last night. There was a lot of reports of tornados south of Nashville. If we'd kept driving, we would've been right in the middle of it. I'd rather deliver late than not at all. Beautiful weather this morning though.

Welcome to VT! Glad to see a safety minded new vaper! You'll fit right in!

Nice to see ya again DG! How ya been buddy?

When you get em in, let us know. There are a few guys here on VT that know what to look for when spotting fake sony's. They'll have you take pics of the printing on the green battery wrap and the positive side of them

Ma, its not me you have to worry bout. But, I'm looking forward to Sis puttin the hurt on Fish and Joe! I got your back if you need it Sis!

Thanks Comp! I forgot about the eraser trick.

Joe likes to throw out the names of wonderful devices, then make me crawl on my knees for the links! Just kidding Joe! Lmao

You didn't raise no dummy Ma!

I don't wanna come across like an azz when I say this but I need to list out some things first. You'll need: 1. A good understsanding of Ohms Law 2. An even better understsanding of proper batteries to use (ie. C rating, peak amps, nominal amps, etc) 3. And even more better understanding of battery safety. 4. An Ohms checker (I CAN'T STATE THIS LOUDLY ENOUGH)! 5. Coil building knowledge (which you seem to have started gaining) 6. Good batteries for subbing (Sony VTC4's, 5's, or a good nominal 30amp rated) 7. Dedication to vaping safe These are some of the biggest issues we have as some people get into sub-ohming or "cloud chasing". Those of us here that sub ohm are extremely safety conscious. With all that said, a good atty to start out with is the Patriot. Clone or authentic. Either one. The authentic has a much better build quality and the holes in the posts are a tad bigger. But I have both and do some good builds on each. Clones are the way to go if you're on a budget and help you learn on. If you get the patriot clone, make sure you get the 22mm one. Vape Safe, Vape Happy, & Vape Often!

+1

Tam, don't worry, we all know you're both!

VTC 4's are great too! The 5's will last a bit longer, but not by much if you're a chain vaper like I am. I'm holding off on the purchase of the 5's untill the 6's come out. I may be one step behind the next latest and greatest thing, but when the 5's hit the market, 4's got a lot easier to get a hold of.

I've got one Ma. The biggest problem I have with it, is the pyrex glass is too thin and is glued to the inside of the pretty shiny outer metal case. Mine has a leak if it is laying on its side. But if I keep it upright, its great. I haven't had it break yet.

I would take a VERY fine emory board or cloth and very lightly rub the black marks off. Then I'd recharge the batts and see if they'll hold the charge. If not, they may be fried.

Here's a screen shot of one of the negative reviews from the same place you bought it from.

Ok. Based on that info, you are within safe limits of your battery. Does your build ohm out at 0.3ohms? Thats what I come up with on that same build. So, the problem lies with your mods fire switch. Is it a spring switch or magnet? I'm thinking that if your fire switch is getting overly hot, that your mods switch is spring loaded. Some of those springs are made of an inferior metal that doesn't have good conductivity. You may wanna disassemble your fire switch and see if you can get a new one and try that. It sounds like your getting whats referred to as "hot spring".

That one in front is the Hypertank. Good looking kanger coil tank!

LMAO! ^^

Most, if not all your mfrs of copper attys have claimed to have gone to 99.5 copper/0.5 silver & lead free.

If you like the way the kfl works, thats great. But there really isn't much need to sub-ohm it. If its big vapor you're after, then the kfl won't get you there. Its more of a device to build exceptional coils for getting the most flavor. You won't need subohms for flavor.

The problem with sub-ohming a kfl+, in my experience, is a lack of sufficient airflow to keep the coil/s from scorching the juice. Again, this is just my opinion. There are other people here that love the KFL+, but its not my fave due to the airflow. I'm more of a fan of RDAs and TONS of airflow

They should, Troy. As long as the device doesn't list "button top" specific. They are flat top batts.