miatafrank

At work I stealth vape since my livelihood could be on the line, but at a bar I have to agree with Ben. At a bar, what is the worst that could happen, they tell you to go outside. You could try talking to the bartender, and if it's OK with him then you're golden. At the bar I frequent the most, the bartender said I could do it inside, so I do. At other bars that I don't frequent as much, I just start vaping in stealth mode and progressively step it up until I'm producing huge clouds, and I've never been told not to. The only people who have ever come to me and said "hey, you know you can't smoke in here" have been analog smokers who are just jealous that I'm vaping inside while they have to smoke outside. I explain it to them and they seem interested, so I give them several websites. Do I ever see any of them follow through?.......NO, hardly ever.

That's why I opted for the Joker with the 801 fitting. I can use my 302 attys, and if I want to use a carto, I can use an adapter. It is better to adapt a bigger fitting to a smaller atty than the other way around.

I would not ignor the LED or assume that it is not responding correctly. If a standard Joye 510 is 2.2ohms, in my honest opinion that is too low resistance for the Joker. I know everyone seems to be in love with the 510 atty, but since I've discovered the Joye 302 I will never use another 510. In my honest opinion the 510 is small and doesn't hold more than 2 drops, Floods easily, and leaks like hell. I bought my Joker directly from Vaprlife so that I could get it with an 801 fitting and use my 302 attys. I can go 3 or 4 drops with no leaking, and the heat and airflow are just right for great taste and vapor production every time. With that said, the Joye 302 is 3.3ohms nomimally which makes it perfect for use with the Joker. I can always tell when my atty is about to die, and I measure the resistance and the high value verifys that it is gone. A dead or dying atty can jump up to over 100ohms, and of course an open atty is completely dead. I experienced what you described once, and when I measured the resistance of the atty it was 1.7ohms, so I replaced it with a fresh atty and the joker started working like a champ again. A 302 atty should have never measured 1.7ohms, so I'm going to have to look into that a little closer since that atty seemed to work well when I first started to use it. Until that time I have never seen the resistance of an atty drop, so I think something goofy must have happened with the mesh. A while back many people commented that they wished that Vaprlife would make their mods available with a 510 fitting, so Jesso caved in on the Joker, and now we are seeing these issues. This may be just my opinion, but I have been working in electronics for the past 28 years, and I think I am qualified to make these assessments.

It's the Joker-FV (Fixed Regulated 5-Volts) that is $99, and the Joker-AV is $109. These are the prices for the bare bones PV unit. For the complete kit with the batteries, charger, and holster, it is $119 for the Joker-FV, and $129 for the Joker-AV. When the original Joker kit was $169 (that was the whole kit with the batteries, charger, screwdriver, and holster), everyone came unglued and said they must be crazy. When the Buzz came out advertised at $115 (that is the PV only), everyone said that was a much better deal. Now add to that 2-sets of batteries and a charger, and thats $147.84. The Buzz doesn't come with a holster, so I'll add in the pigtail cable to use with your multimeter, and that brings it to $152.79. When you do the math, the Joker was never really overpriced. Now that it's $129 for the complete kit, it's not only a better deal, it's the clear choice.

I just got the Joker back after the AV upgrade. I ran the same test, and here are the results. I adjusted the voltage to 5.08v, and with the 3.3ohm resistor load it measured 4.98V. That is exactly the same regulator performance as the buzz, in a package that is thinner, lighter weight, and better looking than the Buzz. Don't get me wrong, I really do like the Buzz just fine, but as Burn said "the Buzz is my back up". For anyone who might be wondering about the VP/PT, Connected to the AC supply the output is 5.46v, and loaded with the 3.3ohm resistor it is 4.80v. Connected to the USB port on my computer it is 5.08v, and loaded it is 4.28v. This was a surprising result.

I just sent my Joker back for the AV upgrade, and I hated to let it go since none of my 3.7v devices even come close to satisfying me anymore. I bought a Buzz to use as a fall back while I send the Joker back for it's upgrade. When the Buzz came in, I ran a few tests before shipping the joker back. First I adjusted the Buzz for 5.00v, then I connected a 3.3ohm 25watt power resistor to simulate the 302 atomizer I am using. The voltage on the Buzz dropped to 4.90v with the 3.3ohm load, which is really quite impressive to drop only 0.1v under load. I then connected the non-AV/non-regulated Joker to the meter and the unloaded voltage was 6.58v, connected the 3.3ohm load and it dropped to 6.32v. This was not a bad result for unregulated battery voltage to drop only 0.26v, but it will be interesting to run this same test with the regulated version when I get it back. Here are some results from the other units/batteries I have. A VP1 using a 10440 battery measures 4.17v fully charged, and drops to 3.70v with the 3.3ohm load. A standard 510 battery measured 3.39v (obviously not a full charge)unloaded, under load it was2.8v. A 510 mega batt was 3.14v (again not a full charge)unloaded, and dropped to 2.86v under load. On another note, the Buzz is fatter and way heavier than the Joker. It took a while to get used to as this thing is like holding a brick in my hand compared to the joker.

For the black shirt, I like the graphic of the cigarette with the human figure crawling out of the ash. You had a banner of that and it woud be awesone for a T.

Does anyone else see a chain of events here. First go after a ban on e-cigs, then raise the tax on analog cigs to a ridiculous rate. Sounds like someone in New york has a hidden agenda.

In my honest opinion the 510 attys are not as well suited for 5v. The 801 is a much better choice at 5v, and in particular the Joye 302. The 302 has better airflow than the standard 801, and is not prone to leaking. At 5v I can drip 3 drops and get a decent number of hits before the taste goes foul. This of course is just my experience and opinion.

Vaperite and awesomevapor are both in GA

The first 801 atomizer I got came in a kit and included some 801 carts. I filled a cart and noticed the same nasty throat harshness, and I never got that with 510 carts, although I never really liked 510 carts either. That was the last day I ever used a cart, and I've been direct dripping or using cartomizers ever since.

You might just need to clean the threads on the battery cap. This is the negative terminal side connection for the batteries, and if crud gets in the threads it will make a bad connection and lower the usable voltage. That's why unscrewing it a little and screwing it back in helps, it's making a better connection.

I have a Joker, and it has been my go to device since the day I got it. My go to atty has been the 801, so I got the Joker from vaprlife so I could get it with the 801 fitting. I have not popped an 801 atty yet, but I did pop 2 901s, which is no great loss since I'm really not a fan of the 901 attys. I have not tried a 510 atty on it, but is rocks a 510 carto. The first 801 atty I tried came with my VP1 and I liked it OK, but then I bought one from the VT store and fell in love with it. I've gotten some other 801s that I didn't think much of, so I decided to try a Joye 302. It turns out that the one I got from the VT store that I loved was really a 302. The air holes are different and it makes a huge difference, so when I say that the 801 is my go to atty, I really mean the Joye 302. Given what others have said about popping attys, I would say that the Joker was designed to rock an 801/302 atty. I do agree that the price was set a bit high, but since I bought it with the 801 fitting and I use primarily 302 attys, the Joker has worked flawlessly for me. I would say that I'm a pretty heavy vaper, and given that I use the passthrough when in front of the computer, I go through 1 set of batteries a day.

I agree that te drop method is good for about 3 ml, but since some droppers might give bigger drops and some may give smaller drops it's not working out for bigger batches. I found this calculator http://www.tji-java-ide.com/e-cigarette/index.php?option=com_wrapper&view=wrapper&Itemid=88 which gives measurements in drops and in ml. If you have large droppers with ml markings, this should work out better. I just got my DYI kit in the mail yesterday, so I haven't tried it myself yet. Let me know if this wouk better

That's awesome True!!!! I just did the same thing with a guy from work. I sent him on his way with my original 510 kit for the weekend, and 6ml of juice. I asked him to make an honest effort to vape more and smoke less, and I'll check with him on Monday. I also gave him a nuber of websites to look at for more info, and I hope to find out that he ordered one.

Of you want 5v on a budget, try the stompbox at cloudsofvapor. it's small, inexpensive, and two 14500s should give decent battery life. I've been using cartos on my 5v devices, and I find that juice consumption is not too bad. The flavor with the cartos is great, and the draw consistancy is something you don't get with dripping. What I mean is that the longer I drip on the same atomizer it seems that the draw becomes harder and I have to clean it out, but I can vape on the same carto and it draws the same for as long as it lasts. I also find that cartos are weak at 3.7v, giving you lots of flavor but no throat hit, but at 5v they rock.

And yet another VP-PT

If you have an ohmmeter, just measure them. If they are popped they will read an open, and if they are just flooded they will read ok (around 3ohms).

Again, you can't read a wall outlet and a battery with the meter on the same setting, as one is AC and the other is DC.

Reading a wall outlet (AC) and reading a battery (DC) are two very different things.

Nice job, I like it. I especially like your use of a washer for the headcap and everything being press fit. Way to go.

Once again, I agree with you. My original intent of the Ohm's law info was because I noticed that often questions pop up about "will this atty work with that PV?", and Ohm's law answers that question very well. The numbers would tend to support that you start overstressing the atty at about 13 or 14watts, and whatever combination you come up with should stay under that. The question was put out there about the batteries themselves, and I put my 2 cents into it. I really don't think there is a way to calculate this, and I really wouldn't spend a whole lot of time thinking about it. Just remember that the voltage will not be "as rated" under load on the integrated batteries (510, 901, 801) and I think the 10440s would fall into this as well, and I think with 14500 and higher things start getting better. Pick one that fits your individual needs, and be happy.

McQuinn is absolutely right, the protection circuit is the fly in the ointment when trying to figure the drop in voltage under load. I suspect that there is a calculation that can be used to figure this on an unprotected battery, although I'd have to look it up because it's not something I use everyday in my profession. I would also suspect that the mah(milliamp hour)rating of the unprotected battery would be an important factor in determining this loading effect. However, the mah rating is really used to determine discharge rate, and I'm sure that there are other unknowns in the internal design of the battery that factor into this. Add to this, all the unknowns of the protection circuit, which electrical designs could vary from manufaturer to manufacturer. What type of comparitor circuit was used to determine when to cut the battery off, what type of switching circuit was used to do the switching. This http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/joye-510/65055-battery-voltages-surprise.html illustrates these effects very well. Based on these findings, I would conclude that the smaller more integrated batteries such as 510, 901, 801 and so fourth all show this voltage drop under load, regardless of mah rating. We can expect better results from the batteries used in the mods, and the oGo batteries perform similar to the mod batteries. The only thing I would have liked to have seen in this guy's test set-up is a switch on the load. That way he could turn the battery on, measure the actual unloaded voltage, then turn the load on and see what the drop was. Otherwise he's just assuming that it is 3.7v because it was fully charged.

It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs. Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty. Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated: A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohm discovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of this relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease). Voltage = current multiplied by resistance Current = voltage divided by resistance Resistance = voltage divided by current Power = voltage multiplied by current Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV: A 3.7v device with a standard atty; Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations. A 3.7v device with a LR atty; 3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps 3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat) A 5v device with a standard atty; 5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps 5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat) A 5v device with a LR atty; 5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps 5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP) A 6v device with a standard atty; 6v / 3ohms = 2amps 6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP) A 6v device with a HV atty; 6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps 6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?) My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.

I laughed so hard I almost fell off my chair.