irwink

It's called voltage drop. It happens when a power source has a load, in this case a coil, applied. Its measurable. A standard eGo batt drops from 3.7 to 3.2 volts when under load.

It will shorten the life or even pop it if you dry burn at too high a voltage. I always did dry burns with a standard non-twist eGo. They dip to 3.2 volts when you fire a coil. I would dry burn a couple seconds at a time until the coil windings glowed a clean red.

IMO dry burning is a must. The proof is poor taste/performance if you don't.

I used to repeatedly clean and re-use kpt coils. I always dry burned before using as there was always buildup on the coil windings that remained after cleaning with an ultrasonic cleaner using vodka and then rinsing in hot water. Now the coils are so cheap I just swap out with a brand new one.

Smoking won't kill you instantly. If you grow sick with cancer or whatever the various entities that own the politicians will then get a growing piece of your paycheck. As long as you have insurance you are a revenue generator until you're finally in the ground or reduced to ashes.

They sorta care. If you die they lose all future paychecks from you.

Wow Uma! Thanks for all the work it took to compile and post all these links.

That's a pretty good vid. Hopefully the vaper, cat and iguana all survived.

I've been using protank 1's for months and the few coils I've blown were ones that I had cleaned and reused repeatedly. In all but one case they blew during the dry burn after cleaning. It's hard to troubleshoot anything remotely. The problem could even be a bad batch of coils that are coincidentally blowing only on that 1 kpt. It is also possible that that your kpt has fallen victim to demonic possession.

Joye.

A very good article. Thanks for posting it.

I have a V3 that's served me well. It gets used every day in rotation with my other toys.

Thanks for the laughs.

In either mode, vv or vw, your pv sends voltage to the delivery device when you fire it. Using one mode over the other makes absolutely no difference in terms of leaks. Something else is going in.

If you spent time as a computer tech you should be able to answer any of your own questions about this issue.

I am in total agreement. I always vape in the same power range. When I change delivery devices of different resistances or swap batteries my pv remembers the wattage, and therefore the voltage required, when set for vw and automatically adjusts to my preferred setting. When set for vv no device "remembers" and has to be adjusted from scratch every time. Can you get a just as good a vape with vv? Yes but you will find yourself having to make adjustments to your pv far more often than you would if using vw.

I'm still using the original KPT's and have no complaints. I haven't read a compelling reason to trade up so far. If it ain't broke... well you know the rest. FWIW.

I've owned a number of pv's and on a given day will use an eGo, eGo twist, Sigelei Zmax, a Vamo, a Semovar and an eVic all on the same day rotating between flavors and workplace circumstances. Each has it's place. Some do one thing or the other or better fit the circumstances than the eVic. But I find that the eVic does more things well enough and has the feature set that make it my favorite. I've had it just shy of a year. Because it's a rev 1 I did have to secure the control head with epoxy. That's the only problem I've had with it. The key to any pv is matching it with the right delivery device. More power does not automatically equal better performance. Matching any pv with the right delivery device equals better performance.

Yeah? An eliquid master huh?

The draw of protank coils should be the same regardless of the resistance provided they're all from the same manufacturer, Kanger preferably. The only variable affecting performance in this case is the voltage applied to whatever the resistance of the coil to achieve an equal wattage across the various resistance coils you have. If you don't vary the voltage to account for different resistance values then you will never have a consistent vape.

I've bought loads of computer parts from Newegg over the years. Used to be that's all they really did but they've been branching out to other consumer electronics in the last couple of years. Guess it was just a question of time. Check this out: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0WW1023081

Newegg is now selling eGo's. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2P41270941&nm_mc=EMC-MP110313&cm_mmc=EMC-MP110313-_-EMC-110313-Index-_-index-_-9SIA2P41270941 I received one of their numerous emails this morning and there it was.

Keep on keepin' on!

If your carto tasted burnt you probably need to switch to the RMS mode of voltage regulation. Common complaint easily remedied. Here's a copy/paste of instructions that likely apply to your Zmax. Look at option 8 for RMS mode. To access the menu system simply press the activation button quickly 3 times, you will then be able to cycle the following menu by pressing the same button: 1. Uu Adjust Voltage Up 2. Ud Adjust Voltage Down 3. So Standby (On/Off) 4. Uc Check voltage of battery 5. Ds Various Displays Sub-Menu Do Display atomizer/cartomizer output voltage Du Display battery output voltage Dr Display atomizer/cartomizer resistance 6. LED On/Off 7. Voltage Power Po: Constant Power (wattage) operation Uo: Constant Voltage operation 8. Change voltage calculation method, RMS or mean calculation In the event of a fault, the following error codes may appear on your ZMAX device: LOR - Atomizer/cartomizer resistance is too low LOU - Battery voltage is too low, replace or charge battery WSC - Short circuit in faulty atomizer/cartomizer - See more at: http://www.vaporkings.com/SmokTech-ZMAX-variable-voltage-wattage-p/zmax.htm#sthash.0MuVJLnd.dpuf

I got Panasonic evic batts from myvaporstore.com for $11.95 each a few weeks ago.fwiw.