Bebop

Apparently I'm getting pretty good coil life. At least by appearance as I haven't kept one coil going for more than a week because I'm playing and rebuilding and trying different wicking configs but I pulled out a week old coil and it looks amazingly clean. The wick itself does not show any wear and the coil has some slight discoloring and a small build up but nothing like I am used to. I'm using 50/50 and 30/70 pg/vg. Generally my juices aren't too sweet. I'm still a bit mystified by a slight flavor issue at the beginning of a new coil. After it breaks in, for lack of a better term, its pretty normal. But i get a funny subtle taste that I don't recall getting with kanthal. Not logical, and not bad. Just an observation at this point.

Awesome. Keep it up.

My builds (in Ni200) generally read lower on my heatvape than they do on my ohm reader. I target the build to about .16. They read .18 on the ohm reader after I load it with juice. Then I tank it up and my mod reads .13 its still operating correctly but it shows .13. I would have suspected it to read slightly higher if anything.

Well, i don't think TC is a gimmick at all. It works, there's less fuss with resistances and power settings, the vapor and flavor are there. The coils are cleaner. In my opinion TC is here to stay and will probably only become more useful. The vape is great and consistent. Im pretty sure the wire itself has nothing to do with flavor. I hope not anyway, lol.

I should clarify. They can be either. The guy in the video is re wicking a standard coil, not a TC coil. What you DON'T want is a mix - some coils touching, others not. You want uniformity. One or the other.

yes the coils come spaced. You want them spaced as evenly as possible. As oopposed to a "contact" coil where the wraps are touching.

Did you see the you tube vid I put up showing how to rewick the pre made coils? It's pretty easy. You could do that. Its not my vid. I linked to it another thread

No, o-rings are not attached to the glass. Lube them up with a touch of juice and they won't bind and your tank will come apart easy.

Well there are a couple "versions" of temp control and I'm not familiar with all of them. But what we are talking about here is temp control - setting a temperature limit on the coil and the mod automatically regulates the power/wattage to hold that temperature limit and not exceed it. It's not simply shutting off the mod. It also has circuit protection and will not operate below .1 ohms as well. I think the TC range is between .1 and 1 ohm.

Make sure when you start and set a new coil that you begin with the atomizer at room temp or "cold". You don't want to fire the coil, disconnect it from mod, put it right back on hot, have it re read your coil which is still warm - it makes TC inaccurate from what I've read. If you are prone to messing with attaching and re attaching your atomizers/tanks, let them cool down before setting them. i haven't needed to set my temps as high as you. I can only suspect that if you are losing flavor and warmth at those temps, then either your temp control is off or you are approaching dry wicks. It could be a juice/wicking issue as well. Are you hitting the temp limits at that setting? I'm sorry, I don't have much experience with the pre made TC coils. Also, I'm finding airflow to be a big factor in performance - which also affects flavor. I must be a wimp, lol. My sweet spot is TC between 440 - 470 and watts about 20 and I let TC take care of the watts after that.

Here's a guy that re wicks the premade coils

The fastest way is to re wick the rebuildable coil. If you don't know how to re wick then you'll have to rinse out and let dry but you're still going to have to play with the wick to get it working. But you should really learn to re wick the as you are missing out on a major advantage to having that tank. There are plenty of YouTube vids on how to re wick.

Hehe....he sold us a couple of heatvape minis too.

Pretty sure I have the V2. I wanted the grey one and I had to wait for it. It came in the dark packaging wrap. I haven't had any issues with mine so far and it appears to be working as intended.

Check the screws on the coil posts are not loose check the pin on the top of your device and the pin on your tank. Make sure clean and good contact make sure coil is not contacting deck any other irregularities you have a short somewhere. It is not safe to fire it. I wouldn't even charge it. Get it checked out before using it. I'm not tha familiar with the Segelei but if you are not sure or not inclined towards mechanical repair, don't mess with it.

Rixter! I hope you're ok, man. That sounds nasty.

I'm leaning towards a non contact coil (spaced wraps). I seem to get the best performance with them. I noticed on a contact coil that while they are easier to wick, the coil seemed to change shape after use. I'm not sure if I'm imagining it or not but I put in some "perfect" contact builds (with a lot of fussing - Ni200 is not as forgiving as kanthal and easily bumps out of shape) only to have them seem changed after use, like they're shifting a little on the heat cycle or something. Not absolutely sure about that though. im now playing around with wrapping on a machine screw. An 8-32 machine screw makes a pretty decent but tight non contact coil around 3mm. It's a little more delicate to wick but seems ok and you can adjust it a little easier after its all put together. ive read that some guys are using Ni/kanthal twists and they work for temp control but I'm not that far along on my experiments and not ready to dive in with more complexity yet, lol.

That's what we need! We need the Flavor Wizard in on this. Go Comp go! btw the way I have to get another order of to you Comp. I'm dying to try a max VG Hydras in my tank!

You could bump your wattage down and go to a 1ohm coil on the 6mg. I know it's a bit like asking you to drive 55 on the freeway but it works you could mix equal parts of 3 and 6 and get 4.5mg you could use different set ups. You have lots of options just with what you have........

Yes. And I'm sure there is more to come. Rixter must have forgot about us. I was hoping he'd chime in on this too. I'm finding in general that TC does not tolerate any mistakes. I can't speak for factory premade Ni200 coils because I haven't used them. On my KST mini, the RBA base center pin theads to the positive post base. Mine worked itself a little loose and I didnt catch it and my ohms reading was jumping all over the place until I figured it out. I have a couple of design issues with the ST mini. 1. The base piece that theads to the tank is the smallest, thinnest, piece of the base, isn't knurled and can be difficult to grab. The tendency to unscrew the airflow assembly, which is knurled before the base unscrews is something you only want to do once which leads to.... 2. The airflow base if it unscrews and slips has spring and bearing assembly that pops out very easily. You only wanna do that once lol. The bearing is about as small as a gnats eyeball and if you lose that you lose that nice little click in your airflow settings. And reassembly it is not fun. 3. I kind of wish they did a reverse thread on the RBA sleeve that surrounds the coil. Sometimes when backing out the base, the coil sleeve unscrews first leaving the coil base in the tank. Once that happens you have to pull the coil base and start over. No biggie but a minor issue that could be solved with reverse threading. I have most of these issues solved more or less now that I know what works well and how to avoid these issues but the reason I bring it up is the point that you should know your tank well as eliminating other issues only helps to make sure everything is optimized so TC works well.

kanthal is short for kanthal A1 which is the standard wire used for building coils not temp controlled

Well the other thing I've noticed with TC is that airflow is super critical as well. TC loves lots of airflow which may be contributing to the flavor factor. How much air, how hard you pull, settings - all change the experience. I suspect I've got a good learning curve on this ahead off me. And trying different tanks may be a thing too. Every tank has it's little personality and some tanks may favor TC over others - I don't know yet - just speculating at this point. This morning I took a great deal of care making my coil and positioning it and making it as perfect as I could - non ccontact , but tight and it's performing beautifully but still not quite "there" compared to kanthal. Ive got the Zeph in my cart.

Oxygen deprivation. Up your airflow.

I am noticing that I get better flavor generally from a kanthal coil. The flavor and vapor are there with Ni200 but it's not as good as kanthal so far. also, I read somewhere that you have to be consistent on the coil build with Ni200 in order for temp control to work properly. Either a contact coil with the coil loops touching or not touching at all which seems to be the case. Any inconsistencies and the temp control goes a little bonky. there is a slight but noticeable suppression on TC over kanthal. It's hard to describe. It's not bad but it just feels a little flat compared to kanthal. Still experimenting. I'm also gonna get the new Zephyrus tank as well.