WillBlack

FWIW keep in mind that Vision is a trading company, not a manufacturer Someone else makes their hardware. A Spinner without a logo could very well come from the same manufacturer.

Did you actually get the Kanger? Lotsa knock offs. http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10005164/1442701-kwx10-protank-e-cigarette-atomizer-2-8ml

LOL for the UltraFire 3000mAh. Yet from the one review: But at $1.98 each what can be expected? For high drain needs (if these are fresh, Fasttesh has been know to sell old stock) these are probably some of the best batteries made. Here they are at a 7A drain (sub ohm fans take note) vs. the over rated grey Panasonics. Note any mAh below 3.2V is useless.

Fasttech has the V3 @ $32.18. http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004394/1374101-vamo-v3-variable-voltage-mod-e-cigarette-battery The SS is just a tad more. http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004394/1394901-vamo-v3-variable-voltage-e-igarette-mod-battery Fasttech uses USPS' E-Packet shipping option (free). Rather speedy, but they often take at least 3 days to get the order ready/out.

If you don't mind assembling, here it's even less @ 24¢ http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004596/1432701-replacement-heating-coils-for-rebuildable But are all these things the same? Many places where I live sell pizza, do I strictly buy based on price? Hell no!.

Do note that's a very soft finish, Extreme care is needed if you are concerned with how it looks.

Got it.

For those who have a bit of SS mesh, a very small bit rolled and inserted into the tip's hole also works.

FWIW many meters will not zero out. Touch the probes together and note any reading (if there is one). This number then needs to be subtracted from the atty reading you get. My meter shows 0.3Ω with only the probes touching each pther, which is basically the resistance of the probes themselves..

Well it's good to see you trying to troubleshoot, but much of what you've posted makes no sense. I'd venture to say your meter reading is incorrect. These PWM devices can play hell with meters. 3V is barely vapeable. Make sure your Vamo is set to RMS volts.

Unless you are Tommy Chong, who was prosecuted and jailed for selling bongs.

I believe that the short ones are the only ones they will making from now on.

"This is just the voltage of the battery correct? " If your are determining/measuring the voltage while under load. " I have an aw imr 18650. When it is fully charged it reads about 4.2 volts. Is this the voltage number the calculator is asking for?" No. Watts is current/energy consumed. Here is a fully charged, 4.2V, AW18650 Li-ion firing a Joye 2.1Ω 510. Now you can figure the watts you will be vaping at using 3.85V in your calculator. Basically there is a ~16% difference, quite significant and noticeable. Also note that anything between the battery and the atty will suck current (added resistance). That silly, way overpriced fuse you mentioned would probably drop that 3.85V you see down to about ~3.6V. If you were looking for just a general sense of what the watts may be, using a Li-Ion's nominal voltage (3.7V) would be better.

Well looking at your 2 coils they are both wrapped 3 times. But your bottom tightly twisted coil starts out with 2 much longer strands of wire = more resistance.

A few random thoughts. It's kinda useless to ask for opinions as there can be quite a bit of manufacturer diversity involved. The old apples and oranges deal. @ the OP, if both batteries are identical (same manufacturer and same age) it sure sounds like one is bad. Also determining a 'full charge' by the the light can be a false assumption. With a regular charger (using 14500, 18650 etc) they will try to charge a cell to 4.2V, but they will not start the charging process unless the voltage is below a certain threshold. Pop in a cell that is at ~4.1V and the light will not change (to charging color) it will act/look as if it's fully charged. And although 4.1V sounds pretty good, in actually the battery is only at about ~80% capacity.

If this is your first foray, why not try one of the many and inexpensive China RBAs? The Igo L is a fine basic atty, with lotsa room to maneuver. It will give you a chance to hone your coil winding. Even if you move on to fancier stuff it will still be usefull, juice tasting etc. FastTech sells a clone for~$8 (I don't have any experience with it though).

Hmm.... Didn't show in the original.

If you want to go to BCC this is a good and inexpensive choice. http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004996/1389502-x10-protank-atomizer-with-dct-tank-40ml It has a few quirks, but it works fine and it can use official Evod heads. http://youtu.be/_fX9zJ5KQlo

Seems these 'hybrid' atties have gone through quite a few revisions. The hybrid term meant using a 306 cup in the larger diameter 510 tube. For a while Hanna had a guide on how to make them. I had posted a pic of Avid's Aero and Rixter commented it didn't look like the HH 357. Here is a side by side view of the HH 357 vs. the Aero from 7-2012. Except for the 2 holes in the SS wrap (HH is on the left), the machine made Aero was pretty much identical. It would appear that Hanna now spaces his wraps out a bit. Avid no longer posts pics of the Aero so it's hard to know if he has made similar changes. Compared to the original standard/stock atties we see the use of a thicker gauge wire. Cisco implemented this long before the Genesis folks did. The original atties also had just a small tuft of wick that was inside the cup only. We now see it hangs over and into the SS mesh, which can now act as a juice reservoir. It looks like they could now be punched/slotted and shoved into a carto tank.

I grabbed one if these. Very inexpensive. http://www.fasttech.com/products/1336002 Works fine, good build quality. The bottom screw holds the carto tight,

I didn't like the way he pre-trims the legs. Trim them after it has been assembled. It's also a good idea to flame the wire a bit (just hit it with a lighter) before stating to coil.

I was unclear. The pic is of Avid's bridgeless Aero atty. That's why I said about the same.

There are many types of various forms. They are low current switches and usually have tactile feedback (a click). The Vamo PCB has three. Common uses would be on many types of electronic equipment, VCRs, DVD players, coffee makers etc. Be tough to actually glue something on as many folks press the button upwards of 300 times/day. https://www.google.com/search?q=tact+switch&safe=off&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=PYAJUovdJsuiqQGy54HYDQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1024&bih=724

The 'micro coil' thing is interesting. Seems Cisco of Avid has been at it a long time. The HH 357 atty looks about the same. Seems that Petar K also came damn close with his method. He was also the first to champion unoxidized SS wick.