WillBlack

You can get some cartomizers here. http://www.madvapes.com/smok-tech-17-ohm-rn4081-cartomizers.html Some made by Boge. http://www.avidvaper.com/products/Boge-Blank-RN4081-Soft-Tip-Cartomizers.html They were originally made by First Union and were some of the most durable atomizers made. But quality control plagued them later on. Their ecigar was also quite popular. Who makes them now is anybody's guess.

I like this guy's vids. Although he does all the trendy things, this is just a pair of simple to wrap (looks like 3 wraps each) coils. No squeezing, tweezing. microizing etc. He also offers the clone you see, and they will drill the air holes to your spec and provide enough Kanthal (choose your gauge) for about 30 coils. Not bad for $20. http://bevapehappy.com/shop/2-hole-xl-nimbus-clone/http://bevapehappy.com/shop/2-hole-xl-nimbus-clone/

Where you people coming up with this?? The DNA12. The DNA20. And what kind of of sub ohm vaping could you do with with the DNA12's ~ 11.5W output anyway?

Just in case you want to up your game a tad, this is a good deal for a fine PV. http://101vape.com/vvvw/148-innokin-itaste-mvp-v20.html Long lasting, nice read out, VariableWattage, and the ability to charge it while vaping, just to name a few advantages.

Pretty cool. But does it properly 'ZERO' when testing ohms (mine doesn't)? You got a lot of wire there. Here's Rocketman's approach using a $3 Harbor Freight meter. The connectors are tapped right into the PCB, he can still plug in the leads. Here he is also using it measure voltage of a Twist.

That usually means you haven't made good, solid wire connections to your posts. And FWIW a SS wick can be reused for many new coils.

That's just the way it is (pretty much for all Gens), keep it vertical. You have a rather large. open 3mm hole. You can try make a little plug for the empty hole out of a small chunk of mesh, but note that may slow down the wicking.

You don't have to put an cotton in the coil. Seems to work fine. Another take, note this is @ 1.6Ω http://youtu.be/_vf1NcNmcVw

It's up to you I guess. Do note the latest in wick, Ecowool IS silica.

Someone got this and liked it, it is rechargeable and has a full eGo connector. "I got the meter today. It took 12 days to get here. The plastic is hard; it feels much more solid than what I expected. The 510/eGo connection works with everything I've tried on it so far, but I don't have anything 808 to put on the other one. I like the big green button that you press once to turn it on/off. Also, the display is nice and bright, and it even has a red LED that turns off when it's finished charging. I don't think there's anything else I can say about it, other than the price was great and I'm glad I bought this one." Use code-> FOCALECIGSHARING http://focalecig.com/Product/USB-Powered-Atomizer-Resistance-TesterOhm-Meter--11615 With free shipping <$13.

Would have been better off posting here: http://www.vaportalk.com/forum/forum/7-help-it-broke-technical-issues/ And for these kind of questions a few pics are in order.

The drip shield was originally developed for the 901 atty. The 901 and it's battery formed a tight seal, the 901 pulled it's air in through the side hole that you see. Unfortunately it often made for a bit of a mess when dripping. The bottom o-ring of the shield was just below that hole. It now functions as a true drip well (not just a catch cup) as the juice that accumulates can be sucked back into the atty (as long as you don't over do it). With the 510 you need to add an adapter so that the o-ring ends up below the atty/battery junction.

IBTanked sells custom cut tubes, but only in 3 packs. http://www.ibtanked.com/custom-cut-tubes/15mm-20mm Very good vendor BTW.

So that will fix the OP's button problem? LOL

What a lame name. It's neither 'auto' nor is it 'dripping'.

Every talks like VG ratios are somehow some set standard of judging viscosity, that's simply not true. Some concentrated flavorings can be mixed @ ~3% while others may need up to 25% and lets add a little sucralose to the mix. The viscosity will be different. The first glycerin I bought was "aqueous glycerin" meaning water had been added to it. Adding a few drops of water to VG goes a long way towards helping with flow problems. It also helps to lower the vaporization temp a bit.

Hard to say. Did you eyeball the coil before you covered it? Did it glow evenly? That kinda drop (or vice versa) used to happen to me when the coil wasn't firmly attached to the posts with Gens. Wire is cheap, wrap another coil with one more wrap and try again.

Stormy's will have them very soon.

Didn't say you could not send them. Did you check the regs for shipping overseas which is more relevant to the topic?

Here we need to clarify what you mean by batteries. Are you talking about PVs like an eGo 'battery'? The current brouhaha with the shipment of li-Ion batteries is for loose, actual batteries (18650s etc.) The USPS had a ban on shipping Li-Ions overseas for a a while, they now allow Li-Ions to be shipped as long as they are installed in the appropriate device, ie flashlight etc.

This is not unique to China. The last time I shipped a package to Texas via the local USPS I was asked if the package contained Li-Ion batteries.

Howdy.

Alcohol won't cut the coil gunk. Use a cup of PG for long soaks. It works slow, but heating (set on the hot plate of a coffee maker) and agitation speeds up the process..

Nice write up. But: As with most things the total resistance of a PV is the resistance of its weakest point. ​There seems to be this unwarranted love of brass contacts. Copper is the standard by which electrical materials are rated (IACS is the abbreviation for International Annealed Copper Standard) and conductivity ratings are expressed as a relative measurement to copper. With copper as 100 aluminum is listed as 61% as conductive (61 IACS). How about brass? It comes in a rather poor 28% (28 IACS). Definitely the weak link. Sounds like all aluminum would be the way to go. Food for thought.

Well you have have to understand what "500 charges" actually means. Usually this refers to the actual battery inside the PV. The battery itself is seldom what goes bad, it's the electronics. Although I have no experience with them, this company has a sub forum on ECF and has been around for years. http://www.greenhouseone.com/eGo-C-Twist-1100mAh-Battery-w-5-Click-Protection-p/egoct.htm Sure sounds sweet.