WillBlack

Well FWIW you sound very new to the game. I don't think the 134 should be your starting point. For one it has no display or the ability to check ohms. The watts adjustments are also way to coarse. It has 6.5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12.5W presets. You'll notice it jumps a full watt from 7-12W. That's just too much. 0.5W adjustments makes more sense. You should look into a Vamo 3. You get a display with a true battery meter and 0.5W adjustment plus you have an ohm checker (almost a necessity these days). And at ~$40 it won't break the bank. Food for thought.

FWIW on the vivi style Aspire the 'throat' where your drip tip goes is rather deep. If you choose to use other drip tips try to use one that extends further into the cap. The shorter ones leave a gap where condensation tends to accumulate This an example of a longer one. Here are some shorter ones, quite common with cheaper China mades.

FWIW this is the kinda problem that can be easily diagnosed with an inexpensive multimeter. You will be able to determine: If the battery is in fact fully charged If there is actually voltage at the PV's 510 connection when you fire it That the cartos ohms are correct Basically everything Bebop12 said could be checked (not guessed at) in 2 minutes. And it doesn't have to be a fancy meter. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html This one is nice for the $ and has a some good features (ships from USA). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LCD-Multimeter-XL-830L-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Ohmmeter-OHM-VOLT-Tester-DK-/271352035881?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f2dd77a29

Well here's the resistance. AWG 28: Low Resistance (0.44 ohms/inch) AWG 29 Low Resistance (0.55 ohms/inch) AWG 30: Low Resistance (0.70 ohms/ inch) AWG 32: Low - Standard Resistance (1.1 ohms/ inch) AWG 33: Low - Standard - High Resistance (1.39 ohms/inch) No simple answer. You coil has ~50% more resistance. Using that, your wire has a resistance of ~ 0.66 ohms/inch. Oh well. I don't think it's worth worrying about. Seems you have ~.17Ω per wrap, just adjust accordingly. 9 wraps should get to ~1.53Ω. If you want more wraps use a smaller drill bit. Next batch try some Temco. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kanthal-A1-wire-28-Gauge-100-FT-0-61oz-Resistance-Resistor-AWG-A-1-/190991728249?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c77fe7e79

The originals I take it. FT doesn't seem to have the newer SS version.

Many folks seem to like these inexpensive atties For some reason the newer all SS version doesn't seem to have caught on. It seems to be a nice upgrade, the SS, the little adapter to allow the use of any drip tip, the adjustable air flow ring, and the included clear and SS mid piece. http://hugevapor.en.alibaba.com/product/1446958294-219957422/2013_hot_selling_electronic_cigarette_king_mod_rocket_atomizer_maraxus_mod_kayfun_atomizer.html Just about the only vendor I found. http://www.desire-ecig.com/MOD-electronic-cigarette/Kayfun-Clone-Atomizer-Ultimate-Stainless-Steel FWIW this seems decent, and it appears to also measure in hundreds. http://www.desire-ecig.com/MOD-electronic-cigarette/Cartomizer-Atomizer-Resistance-Tester-Ohm-Meter

Your welcome. Too much anecdotal evidence just gets passed on and on. Manufacturers post some crazy high specs and people proclaim them great. The MNKE 18650 is another example. "I'm waiting on my MNKEs so I can sub ohm vape" LOL. MNKE is just a 2nd tier manufacturer, but they post good specs. The Sony works OK at lower loads, but I think most would expect a claimed 30A battery to soundly trounce a 22A rated one.

LOL I'm a tobacco guy, the SE/Septwolves is quite unique. I like it.

After finally finding your vid, I gotta say it's's a well thought out mod.

These folks seem to have it a bit cheaper. http://www.bulkhempwarehouse.com/100-degummed-soft-hemp-fiber/ This stuff looks prettier. http://www.bulkhempwarehouse.com/100-hemp-sliver/

These folks seem to have a good selection. http://www.caterpillarvapes.com/categories/hangsen-e-liquid.html

Don't waste your money on the Sonys, middling performers at best. This is a pic from SunVapers 20A Torture Test. He was comparing the Sony 30A to the Efest 30A (probably the same battery BTW) Ignore the 2 upswept temperature traces. I've marked where the Sony hits 3.2V while under load. Note the mAh at that point. I'll call it 0.260Ah = 260mAh. Now lets take a look at the Samsung INR18650-20R (22A/2000mAh) battery at the same 20A drain. Note where it ends up when it hits 3.2V. Looks like 1.130Ah = 1130mAh. The Samsung manages 430% MORE mAh. I'd call that quite significant. The other thing to note is the extreme and rapid voltage drop of the Sony right outta the gate, it's really struggling at only 2/3rds of Sony's claimed 30A. The Samsung, on the other hand has a nice, gradual drop. We can look a little harder at the initial hit. The Sony manages only about 0.075Ah = 75mAh when it hits 3.3V. While the Samsung manages 0.75Ah = 750mAh. That's TEN times more mAh. The Samsung simply slaughters the Sony in high drain/sub ohm comparisons. You can get them here at a very nice price, from a reliable eBayer. Samsung Sony spankers BTW Samsung current rates them @ 22A.

Kind of a confusing thread. That said at 6.5W things shouldn't taste like burnt plastic, unless the coil/wick is, or has become dry or the unit is defective. Are you letting the Kanger sit a while when you fill it? Nor do I think 'cheap' juice is a factor. It would have been better if you had got a more informative and versatile PV, the Vamo comes to mind. By that I mean one that actually has a readout/screen which would provide some clues as to what it is doing. Are you actually on 6.5W? It don't sound like it. Is the atty's ohms OK? Who knows. And the watts jumping from 7 to 8 etc.can be also be rather problematic as that's a rather substantial jump. Where is 7.5 or 8.5W etc.?

None of your links worked for me. That said how did you solve the air-inlet for draw problem?

LOL, I give up. I thought I thoroughly explained the reasoning with examples and charts to boot. Of course it hurts. As does Ignoring common, correct practice and ignoring the manufacturer's recommendations and specs. Why would I? So many glaring mistakes and incorrect assumptions, I saw more than enough to know hack modding when I see it. It's your choice, doing it right cost no more money, actually sometimes less, and takes no more time. I guess It just depends what group you want to be a part of, the elite or.... ?. CYA...

Nope, there have quite few I've seen from perusing various forums for the last 4 years. Most have started with this. http://www.pelican-case.com/microcases.html From a ways back.

The DNA like many of today's devices already has it's own protection built in. Adding another layer to the battery itself often confuses this built-in protection and is neither needed nor good practice. And this holder's PCM circuit will in fact be chewing up some current and impact actual mAh. It's a fact of life that anything in the path will do this. Here's an example, of the battery he uses (a poor choice BTW), naked Panasonic vs a PCM protected one. I imagine he thinks he will be gaining additional runtime with this 3400mAh cell, he will not. He can expect an early end to his vapetime as this under powered cell has excessive sag under load. Even with it reading 3.5V (unloaded), once the button is pressed it will probably sag/drop below the DNA20's threshold/cut off. This has been reported on one of the UK forums by many non high drain battery users. Here's a view at some of the stuff in the path of an add on PCM circuit. I'm always leery of new modders (Feb 2013) posts as rarely have they tested it fully or are honest in any shortcomings. Many of his statements show he has not done his homework. Here's one. That is incorrect and shows that he doesn't understand the current demands of batteries when used in a boost type of circuit. He has figured the current at the atty, obviously there is a lot of stuff, circuits, wires, his added PCM etc on the way to the atty. Nor is 20W some sort of constant, the amp draw will vary quite a bit depending on the ohms of the load. The question is what does a boosted cell need to provide over the range of it's voltage to maintain regulation. And as the voltage drops the current needs to steadily increase. My advice would be to bypass the holder's PCM, the wires also look a bit thin (24GA, 26GA?) I'd opt for Evolv's recomended 20GA and use a proper high drain cell rated at a minimum of 10A. That said here's a 10A comparing my fav high mAh cell vs. the Panasonic high drain 10A offering. Just something to think about. Good luck.

You are using it with the DNA20?

You didn't specify which Lava tube. Many of the various early VV devices, even at their lowest setting were pumping out ~4.3V,

This would be a better choice for a DNA20. http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10003906/1279300-218650-serialparallel-battery-holder-case The PCM equipped one will cripple the DNA. When boosting, the batteries have to provide significantly more current than a simple check at the atty would show. And as the voltage of the batteries drop the current draw has to keep increasing to maintain regulation.

WTH is "faff"??

Definitely worth a shot. Seems they have some good feedback from users and at 14¢ a peice if nothing elso you'll have a lot of wick to use. All China atties/cartos use that as does the Master atty designer, Cisco, from AvidVapor.

Better and easier.

I wanted folks to see that's it just basic coil winding, although he does vids with all the currently fashionable 'in' techniques. Folks should also understand for large clouds very large air holes are needed.

Their latest, AGA T3, looks rather good has some cool innovations. Note the screw on the deck is simply a fill hole, it is not used for the coil. Also note the reduced cap. Unfortunately it only has a liquid capacity of about ~1.5ml, unacceptable in my eyes. Too bad.