WillBlack

Is your A6 that little 14mm atty? Does it have 2 holes (opposite) for dual coil operation? Dual coils need dual air holes. FWIW dual coils should provide more vapor, you'll have much more wire (coils) at the same ohms as a single. And most cloudchasers would consider 1/16" too small, but I have no experience with small diameter RDAs.

Just a little tidbit. Dekang's original was always labeled Ruyan4#.

You've just confused me. The percentages of PG/VG makes no difference. 18mg means 1.8% of the whole bottle is nicotine.

If ya wanna step up a notch: http://www.fadoravapor.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=55 Well built and well regarded. And the owner is a member here.

From the link you posted click on 'Discussions'.

Hopefully they are truly fine grit like these. http://www.amazon.com/For-Pro-Pink-Board-Count/dp/B0006PS3G2/ref=sr_1_1?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1391705120&sr=1-1&keywords=Pro+Pink+with+Foam+400%2F600+Grit+Mini+Board%2C Many cheap ones labeled as fine come in at about 180 grit. Seems a little overly aggressive. FWIW maybe this would be worth a shot. http://www.amazon.com/Nushine-Silver-Plating-Solution-3-4/dp/B00D5TCYT8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1391704574&sr=8-2&keywords=silver+plating Folks using silver plated contacts should note that one of the advantages of silver is that when it tarnishes it's conductivity is NOT affected. Best to not worry about keeping it shiny as the very thin layer will soon be be gone if often polished.

Many Roar/Rawr liquids crack tanks. This a list from 5/2013. Oil based eliquid that conains essential oils, when mixed with.pg/vg, creates esters which will crack Roar Vapor AuRaWRa Roar Vapor Banapple Roar Vapor Banana Cream Pie Roar Hawaii Awakea Roar Vapor Hawaii Sunrise Roar Vapor Strapple

Not sure about how the liquid is delivered but is is important that the actual coil is never run dry. FWIW I like the the Apire. It's a bottom, dual coil atty with replaceable coils/heads (about $2 each). There are a few different styles and sizes that use the same head.. That said many report weeks of use on each head. For me though although vapor production remains strong I'll change out in 6-7 days as the flavor seems to get muddy at that point. That puts my cost at about 30¢/day which is fine with me. On a standard eGo battery the 1.8Ω will be a good choice.

A good and rather fair and balanced (truly, not some FOX crap) show about ecigs. One thing that stands out is with all the big guns getting involved there will be some real money and influence available to keep them available.

Not enough details, you shoulda at least posted a link to the atomizer or kit.

I might try soaking the joint with eliquid and letting it sit. Kinda like using penetrating oil on bolts. You might also try putting it in the fridge first, then later dunking only the bottom in hot water.

That basically brings up the flawed nature of a switch based on a 2 century old telegraph key. Banging two, unyielding chunks of metal together is far from ideal, especially with DC current (and the arcing that occurs) relying on the user to correctly and consistently supply the proper pressure is asking alot. Without getting into too much detail arcing occurs as the switch is closed again as it is opened. Opening arcing is much more intense with DC. With AC this is much less of a problem. It's this arcing that pits and encourages oxide formation. You can see that AC very quickly flips(does anyone notice their light bulbs blinking?) to a zero state, ending the arcing more or less immediately, not so for DC. Again long ago when early switches for carrying current were needed the telegraph model was not used. Here's an early example. What we see is a sprung clamp that firmly presses against the knife helping to avoid excessive arcing. It supplies constant and repeatable pressure on the 'knife'. It does not rely on the user. We also see that the clamp also does a nice job of cleaning the contact area. Many modern switch designs incorporate a similar wiping motion. Another. Although the gif doesn't show it correctly when the two contacts meet there will be some deflection and a minor wiping action. Again no reliance on user pressure. There also the snap type switches (very reliable) were the user's press simply triggers a spring loaded lever that firmly and quickly 'snaps' the contacts together. Mech switch users should never go for a light press, even if it seems to work. You'll end up with some bouncing/micro bunching (and hence extra arcing). A firm solid press is best, especially when higher current loads are involved.

Interesting. Here's a chart listing the conductivity of various metals. http://www.kp44.org/electric/ElectricalConductivityOfMaterials.php Aluminum is an excellent conductor, far superior to brass or steel. From another site (with a different scale for conductivity, Siemens/m) we get. copper 58.5 Aluminium 36.9 Brass 15.9 SS 316L 1.32 SS 304 1.37 Maybe the contacts weren't actually a pure aluminum alloy?

Well this is the clone that caught my eye. It's the SX220. Some Chinglish from a rep. They also seem to be making an SX350 which is able to be software updated. At least it doesn't appear to be some stock pic of the DNA20. The pic I saw of the Amax mod was laughable in it's phoniness. If the display is firmly attached to the board I see that as a big plus. It becomes a simple one step procedure to mount it. Evolv's floating display seems good in theory but in actual use has been a nightmare for many. Many modders have broken the flimsy wire loom and others have ended up with a not centered or crooked final product. Either way Evolv is shooting itself in the foot by not being able to produce sufficient units. As far as making a DNA20 mod it doesn't need to expensive if it's performance that is the most important.. The board itself at $50 may seem high but's it's ready to go. I've built a few VV mods using various inexpensive (but high quality) assemblies in the $3-$12 range, but these always required the sourcing of various support components and a few hours of assembly time. I like to apply some value to my labor. Here's an example by Mr. Evolv himself. Many of the current crop of tube DNA PVs are also using the built in buttons. Many have also taken to using paralleled 20C LiPo packs (often to get just 2000mAh), as the cool in thing. Why? A battery that can sustain a solid 10A discharge is fine. Evolv's datasheet lists 7A IN for max performance. As you see in the the vid he is using is a 4.5C rated Panasonic high drain. In a similar build I would go with a Samsung INR, the 18650-20R is a true beast (and a real bargain ~$7 from trusted, reliable sources) or the maybe the new 24R (2400 mAh). I'm waiting for this guy to return to try INR18650-24R http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Samsung-SDI-18650-24R-INR18650-24R-2400mah-3-6V-25A-Li-ion-Ecigarette-Battery-/321239769775 I'm a bit put off by his shipping though as his other Samsung cells ship free. But so far he is the only game in town. One 18650, one inexpensive batt holder (for a box mod) and one one PTC if you so desire. In a box type mod I also would forgo Evolv's $7.50 charging module . This seems like a better choice. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Mini+USB+Lithium+Battery+Charging+Board+Charger+Module+5V+1A&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1 http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?345500-Review-of-Measurement-on-Charger-module-with-TP4056-controller

No such animal.

Here ya go. No crazy builds, just a simple coil. Just keep in mind that you need a big air hole (s) for massive vapor, and drilling SS is a major pain. The atty he is using has an anodized aluminum top cap, a breeze to drill out

There are a number of 26650 cells out there. Here's a $10 KingKong. Note the actual tested mAh in the lower right hand corner. Here's a 5A test vs. the Efest. http://www.dampfakkus.de/akkuvergleich.php?akku1=358&akku2=115&akku3=&akku4=&akku5=&akku6=&a=5 It's refreshing to see a China cell that actually exceeds it's claimed capacity.

Start at about 3%. There really is a fine line when it comes to more flavoring. This is also good stuff to have, http://www.myfreedomsmokes.com/diy-concentrated-flavorings/all-flavorings/fa-mts-vape-wizard/

In that mAh CLASS like the Sony US18650VTC3 or the 2nd tier MNKE (another cell with fancy specs) the AW1600mAh is the best choice. Too expensive though. In general these 2000mAh cells are the best high drains and are what I would recommend, for the sub ohm crowd. Great price too. 2x-Samsung-SDI-18650-20R-INR18650-20R-2000mah The ones you got are not really ideal for sub ohming. Here's a 7A test, I'll call it about equivalent to a .5Ω atty, BTW I compared it the Callie's 2250 (Panasonic) the traces are identical. Useable, but the Samsung is the better choice. At 10A the gap widens considerable more.

From the one, very underwhelming test of the Sony US18650VTC3 vs the Efest 30A I'd say the Efest is also just a re-wrapped Sony. Efest makes but also re labels many cells, the mAh is often the clue. Can you guess whats under the hood? Efest 18650 3100mAh Efest 18650 3400mAh Li-ion Efest IMR 18650 2250mAh Efest 18650 2600mah The first 3 are are Panasonic and the last a Sanyo. Take a look at my Sony test post. The now ignored AW IMR18650/1600mAh, (Mr AW rates them at 15C - 24A) will also totally embarrass the Sony US18650VTC3. Anyone doing high drain comparison tests should always compare them to the original beast.

Just not enough time to make any conclusions. Give it a month and then see what happens I have no idea why real coffee (with caffeine) was denigrated, the health benefits of coffee are numerous and well documented, the suggestion to drink crap like Diet Pepsi instead is just plain bad advice. From the Mayo clinic,

It would appear that glass is made for the new glass RSST, not as a replacement for the original's acrylic tank. There is no way a simple cylinder is going to work as a replacement for the original with it's one piece cup.

Maybe you just gotta work it a bit more, as Proteus said.

The original SB Hot Spring was so named not for any melting abilities, nor does AltSmoke or Avid (same pic BTW) make any claims to special fuse like behavior. AltSmoke's Hot Spring was made to remedy the rather high voltage drop in their original SBs/Omegas and BBs. Once load testing became more common the high voltage drop became known. AltSmoke then offered a lower resistance spring for a hotter vape. It was a performance issue that was addressed with the new spring. http://altsmoke.com/sbhotspring.html

My last order from FastTech ( via Singapore Post/USPS) was placed on 12-22 and was at my door 1-2.