WillBlack

A few random thoughts. The 2XAA boxes from RS have no master switch or rear cover clip to hold the cover on, you gotta use the screw. This switch though is decent and has a lower profile (and needs a smaller hole) than the rather large MadVapes 'horn switch'. Choose a switch with a rating of at least 1.5A. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508 Buy a few boxes. Drilling plastic is a new experience. Try to clamp them firmly. Decide if you want to recess the atty connector into the box. The advantage is a smaller profile and a stronger overall design. I've dropped mine more than a few times. This pic shows the rear clips that the RS box doesn't have (that's a MadVapes box), there will be a ready made hole on the bottom. Not a bad place to add a flush mount 3mm LED if you want one. The disadvantage of a recessed atty is juice in the box if you aren't careful. I would also suggest one of the sealed atty connectors, again to keep juice out. For a first project I would recommend a single, protected 14500 battery mod for it's compact nature. A 900mAh 14500 should last at least as long as 3 standard Joye batts. These batteries also have better longevity (months of use/more charge cycles) than e-cig batts. The other advantage of these box mods is the increased heat (Watts). Joye batts only pump out about 3.1V (about 4W), freshly charged the 14500's should be providing about 3.7V (almost 6W). Without being overly technical that's a nice step up from 'stock'.

It's interesting to note that with a 2.5 ohm load freshly charged Joye 510 batts vape at about 3.1V.

As was noted it probably isn't making good contact, I notice even in reviews folks crank down the atties like they would a car's lug nuts. It just needs to be firm, as the constant over tightening can eventually lead to the center connector being pushed down/in. Some folks take to using small pieces of paper clips or solder blobs to raise it.

They just came out with Version 3. New button and color. Joye has always made it. HeavensGifts is also offering the new V3. Seems they have switched to the Joye302 pen style atomizer. You can get a 510 stick adapter, it's like an empty 801 atty so it doesn't get lost in the V3's recessed connection. Reports of the Janty 510 adapter were not good though as it seems that Janty added a resistor to the mix. The Joye Stick 510 adapter is a straight thru design though (I think). Mik from Janty has been saying he will match any price, but he's got a kinda used car salesman approach to questions.

Well it depends how you look at it. If you look at The Chuck, it's a no frills, no electronics, low resistance copper mod with just a basic mechanical activation switch and one wire. An 18650 (3.7v) batt comes off the charger at 4.2 volts, stack a pair of CR123's and you'll be coming off the charger at 7.2V. Go with unprotected CR2's, and it's higher yet. In head to head reviews, comparing it to a fancy higher resistance aluminum mod with multiple switches, mosfets, wires, LEDs etc. The reviewers always seem the comment on how The Chuck vapes better at either 3.7V (seems more like a 5V mod was one comment), or at 6V. Because of it's straight thru, low resistance design it's able to more efficiently use all the power the battery has to offer and maintain a high voltage longer than most of the slick aluminum mods. Back to your original question this is from PureSmokers site. Prodigy V2 Breakdown: * Push Button Mechanical Switch * Designed to use (2) RCR123a Batteries. Voltage under load is roughly 4.5v - 5.25v * Completely sealed design. Dripping Friendly. * All parts (Minus Atomizers/Battery) built from scratch utilizing Stainless Steel/Aluminum/Copper/and Delrin Plastic.