WillBlack

Very cool Brian. those numbers bear out your original, seat of your pants conclusion, but do not jive with the spec's 2000mA output. This from the PDF where it repeats it: But why couldn't it supply the full 2A @ 5V as your test show that it did if fact get to 2.67A. But from my chum I got this caveat: Oh well maybe they were being conservative with their published specs (very un-Chinese though), or it was from an earlier revision. Does it seem to get hot at higher volts? Well in general both our observations were valid, my theoretical one based on the specs, and yours from an actual real word test which basically shows the specs (as written) are wrong.

Mouser seems like good place. BigChev went with the tantalums, I did up the volts to 16 from his 10V. Reading the spec sheet for the correct caps is a maddening experience. But I think in our case, battery input and a simple resistive load (the atty) we don't have to be so technical. The chip (or get some samples): http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/UCC383T-ADJ/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsGz1a6aV8DcPXeWoVS0FnzOQaH6Ohm4sY%3d One trimmer that should work. http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/3296Z-1-204LF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs26uXuX7MLMRCLxTj8FVH7 http://ca.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Trimmer-Resistors/Trimmer-Resistors-Multi-Turn/_/N-76qcu?P=1z0vko6Z1yzuvtx Caps. These should do it. http://cgi.ebay.com/10-uF-25-Volt-Tantalum-Capacitor-10-each-/220332871874?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item334cdcd0c2 http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?LH_FS=1&_trkparms=65%253A12%257C66%253A1%257C39%253A1%257C72%253A3983&rt=nc&_nkw=TANTALUM%2010uf&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=2 I'll find the link to Big's guide.

That ain't gonna work. This is the key reason: Mcquinn wants a lower volt device, but he still needs something that can handle about 2A (2000mA) just to be safe. As far as using resistors they will have to be able to shoulder some of the WATTS, 5W ones should work. These tend to be a bit large. There is nothing overly technical about resistor wattage. 5V with a 2.2Ω atty produces about 11.4W, 3.7V about 6.2W. Subtract and you get the approximate amount of watts the resistor needs to absorb, about 5.2W (to make that jump). Hence the need for large power resistors. You asked for a diagram. Here's one of BigBlue's that I've butchered (simplified actually). This is using a 5 pin TI LDO adjustable regulator. Assuming you are using a solid 5V power supply this reg has a drop-out voltage of .5V (loses that much). That means the highest output will be 4.5V which should suit you fine. Where it says '200k 1/2W' that's a trimmer capacitor. If you get a 25 turn one your voltage changes will be very precise and small. You'll probably be able to drop by 0.1V increments. The 2nd cap on the output side is not really needed you can omit that. If you really think you want to tackle it I'll provide more info. FWIW the SWADJ3 that Brian linked to is well worth the money, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. With less than $10 in additional parts you'd have a dynamite mod. The case could probably be removed and it would probably fit in a AA plastic box. But unfortunately the vape time would be very short due to this spec: What that means is someone vaping @ 5V with the TI LDO's is good to go until the batts drop to 5.5V. With the SWADJ3 the same vape will only last till the batts get to 6.5V. If you used it with a 5V power supply the max output would only be about 3.5V.

Well maybe you are right, I have no real experience with an adapter like yours. Maybe 6V-7V @ 2A behaves differently than 5V @ 2A. No way to check it with the calculator. Plunk 6V and 2A into it and it reads 3Ω. Plunk 7V and 2A into it and it reads 3.5Ω I'm gonna check with one of my buddies for some sort of confirmation. Checking amps can be a bit tricky. You have to do it in line with the source load. You can't just put the meter's +/- to the connector. It will fry it. To check voltage under load you need to make a special adapter. If you get true loaded voltages the Ohm's Law calculator should provide the current. You'll also see that a pair of 3V Tenergy Li-PO's vape at 5V, not 6.

Maybe, but off the charger isn't what we vape at. The eGos and Joye e-cig batts come off the chargers at 4V and vape at about 3.2V. While homemade or American mods using a 14500 will vape at about 3.7 to 3.8V and an 18650 maybe 3.9V. Almost all the Chinese e-cigs are throttled down. The DSE 905's are at about 3.45V. An M401's battery for example fully charged is only about 3.1V. Using the calculator you can figure out the relationships. Here's another. http://www.onlineconversion.com/ohms_law.htm @ Brian Are you in fact using an authentic Joye 510? With an SLB/DSE 510 (3.2Ω) or any atty/carto of at least 3Ω that adapter will behave as expected from 6V on down. Plucking the numbers, volts/ohms, into the calculator we see that the current is 2000mA (2A) or less at 6V with at least 3Ω. In general any atty or carto with a resistance of 3Ω or more will work with your adapter up to 6V. My warning was for Joye 510 users. Back to the original post. My first question would be what exact atty or carto are you using. An answer like '510' is not enough. For $3 more (maybe with no bids the same price, $6.99) than the 'N' adapter from RS you could get this (which has the same size DC connector): http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-5V-2A-AC-DC-Power-ac-adapter-Power-supply-/260659841154?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb0898882 Using the Ohm's Law calculator we see that for a Joye 510 it will provide about 4.4V, what many consider the 'sweet spot'. For me that is more than enough. It will produce about double the watts (power/heat) of a standard Joye e-cig, and almost triple the watts of a SLB/DSE 510 e-cig. If you are using knock-off 510's in the 3Ω and up range, 901's, 801's, or standard cartos you will be operating at a solid 5V. I'll add one more tidbit that hopefully won't confuse. They always say to never use LR atties on anything more that 3.7V. Does that hold true for a PT that is being powered by a 5V @ 2A (2000mA) power source? Nope. We will assume LR to be 1.5Ω. Plunk 2A (Current) and 1.5 (Resistance) into the calculator. We get 3V and a measly 6 watts. One last tidbit, Don't expect the various AC USB 5V @ 2000mA adapters floating around to actually get 2000mA to the atty with various USB PT's. Due to either cheap construction, exaggeration, or all the additional resistance of the USB connectors/wires figure about 1850mA to the atty (which is actually a nice vape though, at about 4V with a Joye). If you want a standard AC USB adapter this may be the best choice (haven't tried it personally but the specs are good). It should provide a full 5V for all standard atties. http://www.provantage.com/sonicwall-01-ssc-2848~7SONI0AV.htm If someone wants a little info how regulators work, ask.

That's some pretty pricey stuff. I also saw this under the specs: Just a note for Joye 510 users. Using Ohm's Law, if you have a Joye 510 atty (2.2Ω), 2000mA (2A) can only give you 4.4V tops (which is quite nice). To actually achieve 5V with a Joye the unit would need to output 2.3A (2300mA) If someone is interested in a true 5V with any atty (you really don't need more), this adapter (it has the same 'N' type plug) will do the trick. It is regulated, so even though it has extra amps it will always be a solid 5V. The extra amps means the unit will not have to operating full tilt to power your atties. http://cgi.ebay.com/Genuine-DELTA-SWITCHING-AC-ADAPTOR-ADP-15GH-B-5V-3A_W0QQitemZ290372974728QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCOMP_EN_Networking_Components?hash=item439b93f888 A word of caution though, a true 5V with a Joye produces about 11.4 watts (power/heat). Compare that to a standard Joye 510 e-cig that comes in at about 4.4 watts... big difference.

Return it and get another brand. There have been many problems reported with these batts. The newer ones are supposedly fixed. The connection threads/LED to batt is poor and supposedly a new glue is being used. See if you detect any looseness there. The Riva's or the Hello 16's would be a better choice.

Well FWIW you never vape at 4.2V. As soon as you hit the button (loaded volts) the voltage drops. With Joye products a freshly charged batt vapes at 3.2V, a 14500 at 3.7V and an 18650 at about 3.8V (these are Joye 510 atty numbers). A pair of Tenergy 3V Li-PO's hit at 5.18V. Unfortunately the smelly, original silicone (contains acetic acid) bond does not hold up to e-liquids. Maybe the Type II (that doesn't stink when curing) will hold up better. I have only tried the original.

If were really considering such a device you'll need one that can supply more than 1A. This is a 3A output version. http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-1202/Dimension-Engineering-25-watt/Detail

Nice find. Lotsa cool magnets.

Easily remedied,like Carlos' Juice Box. A quick vid to show (not the same box). He overdid it though, you just need to run screws into the case (he used magnets there also) and put the magnets in the cap. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6tdB8jmr8g

I've been looking at this one. I'm too old to be trying to cram things into a little space. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/1591LSBK/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsrGrAVj6eTveLsjJTOd8UPrhKlVvV9mt8%3d

Well I'll add my 2¢. Most good liquids need more than just one flavor. You need a few very subtle undertones. Adding more/too much flavor usually results in more off-tastes rather than more flavor. Remember these flavors are just chemical equivalents. When you mix up a batch you should let it rest, it will always taste different the next day. One reason it's hard to find VG is because the USP only has a monograph for Glycerin, USP. There is no USP listing for vegetable glycerin.

Batteries aren't regulated power supplies and as such will sag when a load is applied. Raw (unloaded) volts don't mean much. We know a fully charged Li-ion comes in at 4.2V, but that's not what we are vaping at (loaded). This guy built a tester. What you are seeing here is two 3V Tenergy LiPo's actually firing a Joye 2.1Ω atty. This is the true voltage we actually get when we vape. Note the 3V protected Li-ions (actually 3.6V batts with a built in mini regulator) may be different. Using Ohm's Law we see that this atty is pulling 2.5A. Unfortunately these LiPo's where never designed for such a high discharge.

Those LiPo's with a Joye 510 atty will give you a nice 5.18V vape.

I believe that's what the newer 'Premiums' are. From a bit over 3Ω they have gone to a bit under. Seems like soft one piece end caps (not glued) are also the new deal. The Boge 510 cartos (full size) come in at about 2.7Ω.

Seems like you should be able to squeeze them into one of these. http://www.web-tronics.com/pb-1p.html You could cannibalize a 2XAA box for the +/- contacts gluing them directly to the box itself.

That's correct. They seem to work well enough at first but my 2 died a very early death (days) at 3.7V.

The device has nothing to do with the volts. It's all about how much current (amps/power supply) is available to power it and the atty used and it's resistance (ohms). That's also the reason '510' is such a useless term. The knock-offs look the same, they don't perform the same. A 1.5A Kensinton power pack will run a SLB/DSE 510 at about 4.7V, but will only run a real Joye at at about 3.3V.

Ain't it the truth. Here's a pic of a 14500 2XAA mod under a 2.5Ω dummy load.

That may be true on a mod (although most mods' initial loaded voltage is closer to 3.8V) , but it is not the case with a Joye ecig (or any Joye product) which throttles down the voltage and only produces around 4.4 watts. Here's a freshly charged Joye batt and 2.2Ω atty.

That's not what Robert was using. He was using the unbranded blue CR2's off Ebay that everyone has warned against using. This is the junk he had that blew up (his own pic): I have no idea why when real branded CR2's from a reputable dealer can be had for $1.53 (that's shipped). http://hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=59 Some common sense helps. Have a meter and check you batteries' voltages periodically. The flashlight fanatics do extensive testing. Many of the cheap chargers folks use for standard Li-ions do not cut-off properly or completely, and do continue to trickle. This is often discussed and many use timers to ensure a complete cut-off. Reading the comments at DealExtreme you'll often see comments by knowledgeable folks warning of chargers that continue to trickle. Heat plain and simple. Charging or not you are constantly cooking your batteries. If you are always on AC power pull the battery pack. Unloaded voltages don't mean much when it comes to actually vaping. On a home-built mod or no electric frills American mod as soon as you press your button (loaded volts, atty engaged) you are down to about 3.8V, that's on a good day. The commercial Chinese mods and ecigs considerably less. A Joye ecig's loaded volts (and the Joye made eGo) are only at about 3.1V from the get go. Looking at the watts (power heat) explains why someone who moves from a Joye 510 ecig to The Chuck notices a difference. Both use '3.7V' batteries but the Joye ecig produces 4.4 watts while The Chuck (or home-made mod) produces 6.6 watts. An analogy would be the light from a 40 watt bulb vs a 60 watt bulb. Using an imitation (they aren't clones as that would infer identical performance) SLB/DSE 510 atties on The Chuck would only yield 4.7 watts, hence the lack of throat hit that many prefer.

Don't know who you got the Mega's from but the Joyes are what to get. Many are selling the inferior and cheaper SLB/DSE ones.

There is no way a real Joye atty could possibly work with 1000mA. Using ohm's law and assuming an authentic Joye @ 2.2Ω: 5V@1A (1000mA) = 2.2V Now with the imitation DSE/SLB 510's (3.1Ω) you'd get 3.1V, vapable and almost identical to a Joye standard ecig's voltage, but the imitation 510 is only producing about 3 watts (power/heat), while the Joye ecig's at 4.4 watts. Actually you have a very sophisticated model. To be able to get any kind of vapeable results out a computer port with a Joye atty is no mean feat. I'm assuming that's what it was designed for. If it had been cheaper yet, with only a 2 wire connection it would work fine with the 2A power supplies mentioned, but not the computer. As a final note it's more about the power/watts/heat, and to get 5V with a Joye means you have to supply about 2.3A of current.

Well in the throat hit department make sure you are using authentic 2.2ohm Joye atties, not one of the cheaper semi-clones that are passed off as the real deal and hit more like a 901. As far as voltage your Ego might have a 3.7V battery but under load it's only a 3.1V device as is the Joye 510 ecig. A simple home made box mod or the rather simplistic American mods when using a 3.7V battery, right off the charger, hit about 3.8V under load. Is this a significant difference? If we look at WATTS (power/heat) we get this: - 3.1V = 4.4W - 3.8V = 6.6W Also remember true Throat Hit is highly nicotine dependent. Don't confuse it with Throat Irritation/burn. As far as 5V about the only real way to get it is with a regulator, something the fancy American mods don't use. With a TI regulator first hit, middle hit, last hit... always a consistent 5V. The American mods use a resister to tone down the voltage, higher than 5V when you start and declining with each puff till the batteries die. Good Luck in your quest.