WillBlack

Well for me there is only one 510 and it's made by Joye, as is the eGo. The imitation 510's (they aren't really clones, they look but don't perform like an authentic Joye 510). You should start with eGo. And I at least would only buy Joye 510 replacement atties. Janty's eGo (made by Joye) was a major game changer and brought many big mod users back to the Chinese e-cig fold. As was noted many can now get all day vaping on one charge. No need for PCC's anymore. Those, like the original stick type e-cig batteries are yesterday's news. The technology has improved, use it.

How a charger works is not open to interpretation. Show me some charger specs that say it's just a 5V power supply. And the link you provided calls the eGo USB battery a passthrough, it is not a passthrough nor does Janty ever refer to it as such. Here's a few Li-ion battery charger schematics. Notice that that they are being powered by various 5V USB sources. Sure is a lot of stuff between the dumb power supply that you purport is all that is needed and the actual battery.

No that is totally incorrect, it will regulate nothing. What it will do is hopefully prevent the battery from overheating/burning/blowing up from being overcharged, and anytime a battery's protection circuit's overcharge circuit kicks in the charger should be replaced, the battery has in fact been overcharged. You need a charging circuit not just protected batteries or a protection circuit. Also the amount of current that can be used will depend on a Li-ion's capacity. If you are referring to devices like this? These are NOT chargers they are simply dumb power supplies. The same can be said of the so-called cell phone chargers like this. Again this is simply a dumb power supply that feeds the actual charging circuit that's in the phone itself. Totally incorrect. No charger for 3.7V Li-ions outputs 5V... period. And a charger is far more than a power supply. Running 5V into a 3.7V Li-ion and hoping that a protection circuit kicks is simply bad and dangerous advice. The basic algorithm is to charge at constant current (0.2 C to 0.7 C depending on manufacturer) until the battery reaches 4.2 Vpc (volts per cell), and hold the voltage at 4.2 volts until the charge current has dropped to 10% of the initial charge rate. The termination condition is the drop in charge current to 10%. The top charging voltage and the termination current varies slightly with the manufacturer. The preferred charge algorithm for Li-ion battery chemistries is a constant current-constant voltage (CC-CV) algorithm. The charge cycle can be broken up into four stages: trickle charge, constant current charge, constant voltage charge and charge termination. The 1.5A switch I linked to works well and can easily handle your current needs. Your penstyle at 5V is pulling about 1.4A, at 3.7 a measly 1A. As far as needing 3A, some of the best and most recommended mods by AltSmoke use 2A switches. Also note that is not a MadVapes horn switch. Well I'm outa here. Good luck.

Well a few observations. You got lotsa room there, why the 50¢ switch? Those things you are using are rated for 50mA, you are probably running 28 times that thru it. If you want to buy local this RS one is decent. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508 This one also. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062543 FWIW the atty is not polarized. I routinely run the negative lead to the center post. I also advise folks to lay the epoxy on thick around the atty connector. All epoxy will eventually get soft and lose it's bond when exposed to eliquid. I noticed you were wiping it down. Keep the epoxy as clean as possible, don't let the liquid just sit on it. As far as inbuilt charging it's fairly simple as Jolly mentioned, for 3.7V mods. http://www.madvapemods.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40 But charging a pair of batteries in series is not the easy. I don't agree with mcquinn, that's not the function of a protection circuit. If you want HV and charging, track down Jolly's Tekk mod video.

AW is considered to be the premier battery maker (you certainly will pay premium prices). I've got nothing bad to say about them except they are expensive and the 18650's mAh rating, although accurate is too low. The high drain LiMN. The Li-Ion. Do note the larger Li-Ions have no 'button' top, for some devices you may need a spacer (small magnet) Do note with 14500's the high drain LiMN's make some sense, as standard Li-Ions here can not keep up with the current demands of even a standard Joye atty (they are being pushed past their max discharge rating, stressed). And with 14500's for some reason, vape times are very similar. FWIW TrustFires in general are better that UltraFires. These are very good for budget vapers, The reviews are positive and they have been tested and are in fact true 2400mAh cells. Nice price too. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-37V-2400mAh-18650-Lithium-Battery-2-pack-P517.aspx

The only thing I don't like about them is their short vape times. Most 18650 Li-Ions can easily handle a 2.5A drain which covers almost any atty. A standard Joye510, for example pulls maybe 1.8A. Take a peak at this 2A drain test. Look how quickly the AW IMR drops off (bottom, green), then look at the standard AW Li-Ion (top, black) and how much longer it maintains a higher voltage. In general the AW Li-Ions capacity is about 60% greater. One reason to put up with the bulk of an 18650 is for large capacity and long vape times. Another thing to note is the poor showing of the often used red/white UltraFire 3000mAh batteries (brown line). Although they last a bit their heavy and quick voltage drop is unacceptable. Avoid them.

I tell you, pull on them real hard and they'll take your breath away. True nicotine TH, that spasmodic effect on your throat tissues.

I wouldn't be too concerned as long as the charger and the batts protection circuits are working properly. But my concern is if they aren't. I never charge my 18650's unattended, there have more than a few reports on the flashlight forums of malfunctioning batteries and chargers that end up cooking the battery with scary and sometimes explosive results. There have been reports of fires and pictures of melted, blackened chargers. Some use a timer with their chargers. These aren't exactly precision, high quality items. FWIW there really is no "the eGo battery with the built in passthru", You aren't passing though the current to the atty you are vaping off the battery, if you have it plugged in the built in charger is simply charging the battery. It has no real effect at the atty, it will turn on and off depending on the state of charge. You'll note that Janty doesn't use the term pass through and accurately describes the product.

Let me add my 2¢, for any other members ready to take the plunge. These PT's are chintzy devices made with the cheapest components available. They have nothing in them that could possibly protect either the atty or the device that they are plugged into in case of a short. Hopefully your game consoles and computers can quickly deal with a dead short or stuck on button. As a long time PT user abuse is inevitable. They get yanked, dropped, stepped on etc. and the one you buy today may well be different than tomorrows. That one person has declared the 'universal fitness' of them as safe, should be considered with a grain of salt. The various e-cig forums are strewn with horror stories concerning PT damage to expensive equipment, even with the more expensive PTs that purport to have various electronic safeguards built in. Buy a $10 AC/DC USB 2000mA adapter, not only to save you equipment but you'll also get better performance.

Well it depends on how you look at things. Seems everything was working fine, until you plugged in the new PT. Now devices that once worked do not. So you are saying that the computer that was working fine just so happened to go bad when you plugged in the PT? Then you proceed to plug the same PT into other devices? Not the way I would of went about it. To me that would be the time to quickly remove it. Whether the PT was good or faulty doesn't really matter as far as your original computer, but I would guess that it did in fact jack up your computers USB.

It seems many of these mod designers never used a real 510, The Joye. Many of the basic 5V box mods also cannot handle a real Joye, but work fine with the imitations (higher ohms). The Joker claims "Unit's regulator 'shuts down' once 3 amps have been reached". At 5V that would happen at 1.7Ω. What kind of batteries are you both using? The 3V Li-PO4's or 3.7V Li-Ions.

Very nice, fancy switch too. I don't know if it's too late or how it sits, but the bottom of the board is the heat sink. I little bit of air space between it and the plastic case is a good idea.

Nope two radically different designs. The threads (as noted) and internals. Here's the inside of a standard KR carto. Note the tube and the lack of a coil, just a wire running through the tube. Here's a GreenCig carto. The new Joye/eGo cartos are GeenCig style.

Well the GreenCig cartos have no slot across the positive terminal (neither do LeCigs D1's) like most cartos. That means that air for draw must come thru the center hole only. Here's a slotted 510 carto. It also has some small inlet holes in the threads. It can draw air through the notches in a typical 510 atty connector. It will work with a sealed 510 connector. Note the GreenCig on the left. No slots and no side notches, no side holes. The no-slot cartos will not work on the no-slot Kanger manual batteries. The hole in the connector is actually sealed, there is no air available through it. I hope this makes sense.

The standard 901 whistle tip carts will fit into an end of a 510 carto. I trim about 1/8" of plastic off it first.

I only buy from vendors who clearly identify their products. http://www.litecigusa.net/510_Blank_Cartomizers_p/510bogesoftcartosb.htm

Forget the finicky Carlos Juicebox, they lost their luster quite a while ago.

Thanks for the info. I poked and prodded the tube and the filler. I actually pulled some filler as I use juice feeders and the draw is my only concern.

Worked pretty well. Thanks. You didn't mean to push the wire all the way through did you?

Can you recommend any of their tobacco flavors or the RY4?

Silver = Boge Brass = SLB (for the most part) My problem with the standard Boges (run at a true 4.2V) is the draw, rather quickly (about 2 days), stiffens up to almost nothing. You can't really open up the tube again due to the wire running through it. Soaking barely makes a difference.

That's incorrect. A variable resistor/rheostat that can handle a 3A load will be large and expensive.

Nice. The main thing I like is the ability to open up the vent holes in the 510 threads. Almost impossible to do by just soaking. The draw gets harder as atties are used, this should help. Might not be a bad idea to also attach the bulb to the thread side, as you may dislodge some gunk that may plug the little hole in the plastic wire retainer. Here's a 510. On the left you'll also see where the little vent hole has been melted almost shut.

The batteries may charge to 4.2V, but they vape (loaded volts) at a about 3.7V when fresh. Remember with an eGo atty you need to have about 2.4A of current to get to 5V.

???? As a Joye 510 user that means the best I could hope from it is 2.75V. It won't even fire the atty. It doesn't matter what the input voltage is. You also don't want to be pushing a regulator full tilt at it's max rating all the time, lotsa heat, poor longevity. The TI UCC283 and 383 adjustables are 3A devices, they also have very low dropout, 0.5V, and will usually be running at about 2/3 of their max rating.