WillBlack

One thing to keep in mind is that with a basic battery mod never concern your self with 'polarity' to the atty. It doesn't matter which lead (positive or negative) goes to the center connector. Here's a boxmod. http://www.walagata.com/w/mysticx/box_83f-e70e.jpg Note all the wiring involved to get the positive to the center post of the connector. A much more elegant, simpler and less resistance approach. Also note this box will need a lot of epoxy to support the connector as all epoxy (including the over-hyped JBWeld) will eventual succumb to eliquid. A little extra will postpone the inevitable. I would also suggest you get one of the epoxies made specifically for plastic. Good Luck.

Still works. One 'reviewer' made a video touting his home-made drip tip, which was exactly how you did it.

Yup, you can drip into it but the liquid is basically running around the cart w/filler, through the air holes to the bridge.

Once upon a time there was a use for it, but that pre-dated the atty adapters that are so common now, that make for a much neater and more reliable connection. When I saw those vids, I just see an awkward way to attach an atty. The 'new breed' of modders often think they thought of some new, or run with someone else's idea with out giving credit where credit is due. Well over a year ago Warp1900 came up with the idea and basically went nuts with it. Using them for power supply and batt changes still makes some sense though. The way the German modders use various RCA/audio type connectors (not as clumsy over length adapters) makes some sense though.

Well there is really nothing to them, and they don't require much soldering either. My first, powered by a modem power supply (5.1V@2A) I had laying around. Gives me a measured 4.5V with a Joye atty. The advantage of a modem/router power supply, hardwired, is that all the current should make it to the atty . No additional resistance due to USB connectors/thin wires. You can find router 5V@2.5A router Power Supplies on Ebay for about $10. These will give true 5V with Joye atties and run 1.5Ω LR atties at a nice ~3.7V. My latest, this is USB equipped, using a 2000mA adapter. This gives me a measured ~4.15V with a Joye atty (I kept the USB cable to ~28"). The pics should be self explanatory, there's not much to them. Some sort of stress relief where the cable enters is a good idea. Top is just 2 layers of heat shrink, bottom is air-line tubing (some adhesive was added later).

Cool. I don't know if you are are taking statins, much of the tests were done on men. Seems woman react differently to them. It's also important to note that controlling dietary cholesterol has little real impact. In a nurses study with those who consumed less, their bodies produced more, and for those who ate more their bodies ended up producing less. Hopefully your Doc has looked at your triglycerides. In other parts of the world these are considered more important than the made up cholesterol levels the US uses. Good Luck.

It gets a bit tiring to see coffee disparaged and always refereed to as simply caffeine or lumped in with Mountain Dew. The lift, satisfaction, and health benefits provided by coffee can never be duplicated by pure caffeine. There are additional stimulating effects of coffee which have nothing to do with its caffeine content. Coffee is a complex product with many components. http://www.health.harvard.edu/press_releases/coffee_health_benefits Sounds pretty good to me. Much coffee research has been done in Finland, the highest coffee consuming nation. So far the main thing they have found is that Finland has one of the lowest rates of type II diabetes in the world.

If you check the volts of stacked cells when you pull them, the lead cell usually has a lower voltage. It tends to work a little harder. Alternating positions of your pair will help to 'age' the cells at the same rate. I would also suggest giving just pulled/used cells a short rest before charging. This will give them (and the voltage) a chance to stabilize first.

I agree. I was using your tests so folks can get a feel on how they can can be used to further explain and de-mystify certain aspects of vaping. And as you demonstrated you don't need fancy equipment or arcane procedures to draw meaningful and useful conclusions.

A decent vid. A few observations from what you posted. In your first demo with the Mark Mod (a 14500 I assume) the unloaded voltage of 3.98V would indicate either a not fully charged cell, or a problem with the Mod itself. Raw cell voltage and unloaded mod voltage should be almost identical, maybe a 0.02V drop... tops. I'm assuming the meter is fine from your later USB adapter voltage test. Any time someone builds a basic battery mod, box, tube, flashlight etc. the raw cell to unloaded mod volt comparison is important to make sure there is no unwanted additional resistance being introduced. What that test shows quite clearly is what a poor choice the typical 900mAh 14500 cell is at 1.5Ω. Part of the problem is that they are nowhere near 900mAh at high amp loads. And mAh are related to how much current they can supply. Here's a test, with a usable range. 4.2 - 3V at a rather light (by our standards) 0.8A discharge. The verdict? The 900mAh UF14500 is actually 592mAh. And that's at .8A, a LR atty wants 3 times that amount which means the mAh will actually be lower. In your test @ 3.3Ω you had 3.61V loaded. Folks should realize mAh's play a huge part in performance, not just vape times. Here's a loaded test by Rocketman. His meter is quite accurate. The cell is a freshly charged 18650 UF3000mAh (OK for low current demands like this, for LR use look elsewhere). Here he is firing a carto that he metered at 3.2Ω. Sweet. Your PT test with the 2A PS was interesting. It shows that a 2A power supply does not guarantee 2A to the atty. I may be old school but if it's a 510 PT I want to know how it works with the real deal, the Joyes. Extrapolating from your test results/drops a Joye atty user (510 or 306) would be at ~4.2V (maybe). It would have been interesting to see how a 1.5Ω load on the PT would compare to your first 14500 test.

No they don't. I doubt there is a more efficient regulator available. Heat? Hardly any. These regs use PWM to control the voltage, they aren't burning off anything. These step down Buck switching regulators use batts in series, which ups the volts but not the mAh. And even though they are quite efficient he's working with only with about 600 true mAh (if that) after they get a little mileage on them. Everyone's vape style/ml consumption varies, but 4 to 6 hours of runtime sounds about right on 14500's in series. @ rcummings5886 You should do a few voltage checks when you pull your cells for charging. Usually the lead cell in a series pair drains faster. Folks always talk about using them in pairs. Using the same pair but switching their positions should help 'age' the cells equally. And FWIW in general, TrustFires usually are a better choice than UltraFires.

It is. I never thought to heat it though. I've always just soaked them in my aquarium pump 'jiggler', usually overnight.

Well a few tips, start low on the flavorings. It's pretty easy in the search for more flavor to end up with a cloying mess. Also a just mixed, then vaped batch will probably taste much different the next day (or week). Good eliquid always has a few ingredients, not just one. Certain subtle undertones can really enhance the overall satisfaction.

Sure seems like a lot of atty prep work. Now if you designed it work with an almost unmodified atty...

That all depends how much current is available if running a true PT. Most folks opt for the common 2000mA adapters for their PT's. That amount of current, with a LR 1.5Ω atty, in actual vaping volts will be ~2.9V.

Let's look at IcaBod's (Mr Darwin) original claims (actually lies). Now that you have a VV mod have you found his claims to be true? Are you getting "good hits and bad ones" and as your batteries weaken is the vapor being reduced?

Ever heard of Ohm's Law? The relationship of Voltage, Current (amps), Resistance (ohms) and Power (watts) is well known and easily predictable. http://www.onlineconversion.com/ohms_law.htm There is no "controls the voltage and the amps independently", when one changes the others follow... period. That makes no sense. The atty gets hot because you are using it and the tube and connector have now heated up and are influencing the vapor as this heat is being transferred to the vapor. The cone on the eGo was designed to maximize and use this created/retained heat. It has nothing to do with any resistance change, which in this case will actually be higher (by maybe an undetectable 0.2Ω), a common flashlight mod will also make these 'adjustments' to resistance changes as AMP draw is related to resistance. And because the entire atty is now hot adjusting 1,000 times a second means nothing. It will take more than a few milliseconds for any temperature changes to register, quite a few actually. This has nothing on the ProVari, which is quite efficient, uses easy to get cells, and has a host of safety features and comes from an established and well regarded vendor.

Reminds me of the old riddle. If you call a tail a leg, how many legs does a dog have? Four, calling a tail a leg doesn't make it one. Works better for me.

Well there is no such thing as an eGo passthrough, read what Brian said. Nowhere does Janty list an eGo passthrough. There is no current passing through to fire atty, it's simply another battery device. And if your are a Joye/Janty/eGo atty user you have to be very careful about the simple cord/switch/connector assemblies that vendors now like to call '5V PTs'. Here's one vendors spiel. This Passthrough runs at 5 Volts and requires 1 Amp (1000mAh) of power to run properly! (Don't Say we did not tell ya ) (No you cant use Low Resistance Cartomizers or Atomizers on The 5 Volt Pass-Through.. They are meant for 3.7 Volts remember? These run between 4.8-5.1 Volts depending on the power supply. A 1 Amp (1000mA, there is no 'h') supply won't even fire a Joye atty as it will only provide about 2.2V, loaded volts.

I got mine at the $1 store, they have lots of uses.

Don't buy from anyone who doesn't plainly and accurately label their product.

Well how about the Boge 510 atties? http://www.litecigusa.net/product_p/510batom.htm

Sure you can, and how do you think bottom-feeders like the WetBox work?. It's simply soaking the resistance wire (found in standard cartos) like dripping does. It certainly isn't just refilling the batting/filler around the tube. You can't just pop an empty carto on a bottom-feeder. And FWIW a standard top-feeder with the feed tube shoved up against the inside wall of the mouthpiece works quite well with cartos as most of the liquid actually flows down the sides anyway, right onto the batting and also wetting the resistance wire. The CE2 cartos (with their little atty like coils) become vapor monsters when top-fed.

Well I always suggest that those new to vaping should start with PG only liquids. You need a base on which to make your comparisons, something you can compare to, you can then move on the various PG/VG combos to see how each affects the various parameters of the vape and which ones suit your needs.

As a new vaper I would suggest you start with a pack of the standard Boge 3.2Ω cartos. You need a reference point. You need a base to start with, to compare to. They won't go to waste. These will be easier for a novice to master and use, as there is a learning curve. How to refill, how often to refill, what it takes to avoid that 'burnt' taste etc. Master and understand the basics first, and note many folks are more that happy with high ohm atties and cartos. It's odd as just a few months ago I was always in debates as many found fault with my recommendations for Joye 510's (which compared to all the other atties out there were LR) over the higher ohm imitations. Many claimed the Joyes were too hot, too harsh etc. While calling atties like the SLB/DSE 510's (3.2Ω) a much better choice.