WillBlack

Seems decent, if you trust stuff made by SLB. Their track record isn't much to talk about. The side fire button though is a fail for me.

Nice and very thorough guide, but: That's odd, looking at the datasheet sheet for the assembly we see this. We also see this: Anyone building this mod, should use a common and easy to find 220Ω resistor instead, which will properly cap the voltage per spec as recommended by the manufacterer. Just saying...

How about a link to this?

I would just opt for this from a USA shipper. http://www.ebay.com/...=item3f1e16c8c0 No reason to over pay at RS.

Good luck finding a legitamate attorney who will go after a China company. And FWIW no product is perfect, nor does it have to have a 100% track record to be considered safe. Here's some more battery explosions, these aren't isolated instances either. http://www.wthr.com/...ttype=printable Stuff happens.

I notice that eventually the liquid in the tank will start to darken.

Just some observations. If you are using the Tenergy LiPO4s you are only vaping at ~5.2V not even close to 6V. Here's a fresh set pushing a Joye 510. Another thing I've noticed is once you run an atty at a high voltage there is no going back to 3.7V. Also note most mods like the Big Kazoo (unless they have changed the regulator) will go into thermal shutdown once you start pulling over 2A. That mod appears to have covered the assembly with a thick layer of goo (silly), hard to dissipate the heat these regs generate. They need a heat sink and some breathing room/air space. Note from their description.

Do note the 2200mAh Joye cell is not protected and is a flat top (no button on top). If you want to use a protected cell you should search around and see if they will fit (about ~2 - 3mm longer).

I couldn't live without a real PT. I would not fool around with any cheap, resistance adding USB cables and connectors. Look to see if you or friends have any power supplies from a router. The D-Links are usually 2.4+A and will work well. They are usually high efficiency switching types and do in fact provide the amps they claim. http://www.ebay.com/...=item414a13b272 http://www.ebay.com/...=item4aae95dd98 If you are a 1.6Ω DCC user those will give you ~4V. With any atty/carto that's 2Ω or higher you will get about ~5V. This was my first PT with RS parts. That's a 2AA box. The whole thing will cost maybe $15, including the PS, and is about the easiest mod to attempt. The cheap 2000mA adapters when coupled with cheap USB cables and connectors will never allow you to get the full 2000mA to the atty itself.

The thing I find intriguing is the rush to get a China PV that has no time in the field. The China copy PVs have not had a very sterling track record, early adopters got stung bad. Do folks remember SLB's DSE905, the 'Screwdriver'. What a piece of work that was, Bauway couldn't even get a simple tube mod right, the disastrous 510N. How about Boge's juicer? All 3 of these went through some quick and numerous revisions. I've already seen how the Lavatube's atty connector leans in two reviews,maybe the plastic top cap should have been metal. And what's the deal with it not able to fit a standard protected 18650? My advice would be to wait out the first run and see how they work/hold up, and how the seller will be handling any problem units.

You may want to try the Smok 1.7Ω single coil cartos (~45mm). They work quite well and hold more liquid than the Boges (~35mm).

A little late here, but you should check each individual cell. When using them in series one cell will drain more. I can take my mod to ~ 6.4V total. But one cell is often at 3.4 and the other is at 3V. It's a good idea to mark your cells and rotate the position each time, so that the cells age equally. FWIW it is best to stay above 3V at all times. But 14500s are cheap to replace.

I've found the SmokTech 1.7Ω singles to be excellent cartos. They respond well to lower voltages and are longer lasting, with better draw (don't stiffen up as quickly) as the DCs in tanks.

Sure, I don't just pop a dry one in my home made tank. The hole/slit size is a bit tricky with the DCs. They have to be small enough so that he liquid doesn't just leak through and out the center tube. As soon as you get it filled and together top it off with a little liquid to get the ball rolling and let it sit a few minutes. In the video he makes it seem so plug & play. It's not. If you are getting dry hits the slits/holes may be a tad too small, but it's easy to get them too big and end up with a mess. Remember these aren't precision openings. FWIW the Boge cartos are much easier to work with and slit/hole size is much more forgiving. I also don't buy into the assertion that these last for weeks, unless you are a very light vaper. After about 25ml of liquid the taste is dulled and the draw will stiffen up considerably. Try another to make sure you just don't have a dud.

I doubt if it's anything like coffee which has been found to have numerous and significant health benefits.

Didn't seem so idiotic to me. The assumption that vaping all day is safe and doesn't harm you is rather premature. History has shown that many 'safe' products come back to haunt us many years later with a vengeance. The 'natural vegetable' shortening (in this case the vegetable was cotton seeds), that was to save us from lard is one of the best examples. I've made a concerted effort to keep vaping at a reasonable level, and that includes no more deep lung inhales. Do folks really think our lungs were designed to process heated, vaporized e-liquid? Is this something our ancestors had to deal with that through natural selection our lungs would try to adapt to?

I like and recommend high quality switches, but those C&K's although pricy, seem to be not quite up to snuff. Seen more than a few complaints on forums of premature failure. One thing I don't like about the RS is the close proximity (with no juice well) of the connector and the switch. Neither the switch nor it's mounting hole is sealed. Sometimes you gotta wonder when a replacement switch is offered so prominently. You don't see AltSmoke offering replacement switches.

It's in the details, one size does not fit all. What OHMs are you using.

Thanks good to know. I wonder if the AW's may perform better. Yea you get a higher initial volatge, partly because they don't have a protection circuit to deal with. I'll try the AWs I need the shorter size more than anything for a mod I'm building.

Well what BRAND of IMRs did you get?

If you really did some research you won't be buy a PV like the inefficent Infinity that can only handle 2A loads and uses some of the stupidest batteries made. Try to find some brand name protected 14430. I would also guess the true mAh is closer to 500mAh. And with the cheap linear regulator it uses you can expect about 35% of the batteries' charge to be just burned off at the regulator. If there is a problem with the Don, it's the boring look and the finish, which will need constant attention to look nice. These are a must.

Well I don't know where you got that info, but they aren't even close to being 3000mAh for our needs, and with their high resistance they are a poor choice for ecig user in general. If you are using 3+Ω atty/cartos they are OK. If we use 3.3V as a cut-off that UF gets about to about 1700mAH (that's at a 2A drain). The black AW2600 (~$15) and Tenergy2600 (~$8) will actually make it to about 2500mAh before they drop below 3.3V. Any mAh after that is useless. Anyone wanting to try the Tenergys should probably get the button top version (Amazon only has the flat).

You gotta take those ratings with a grain of salt. Here's a standard UltraFire 14500, 900mAh cell actually tested at a modest .8A drain. True capacity 592mAh. Also note the time it took, 44.28 min. I would assume at a more vape like drain, ~1.4A it would drain in about ~30 min. If you use standard 14500 and LR 1.5Ω atties you are also beating that cell death, aging it prematurely. It's not made for such a drain (even with standard Joye atties) and can expect it's capacity to drop after about 100 charge cycles, not the some 300-500 claimed.

Have you taken a look at the site? No encryption while entering your personal info, no contact/owner/location details. Can you say 'fly by night'? Hardly a review, smells like SPAM to me. BTW the same copy/paste 'review' is on many forums.

True throat hit is nicotine dependent. It creates a spasmodic muscle reaction in your throat. Gooey glycerin acts as a buffer. All the other various additives just create throat irritation.