WillBlack

I agree with Rixter. Cisco of Avid vaper knows a bit about coils. http://www.avidvaper.com/rebuildable-atomizer-coils-with-non-resistance-leads/ Here's a pic of one of his pre-rolls.

Well FWIW the button you actually press was probably not attached to the actual fire switch. China PVs use small tact switches Here's the original soft button version of the Vamo. Here are the actual switches that conduct.

Do note the Fasttech Igo L is NOT the Youde/UD original, it's a knock off.

Well FWIW the term Glass Fibre can sometimes be silica. Note our common drinking glasses are ~75% silica. That said for the most part it may actually refer to a fiberglass, which in this country usually "is a fiber reinforced polymer made of a plastic matrix reinforced by fine fibers of glass." The main problem is it's much lower melting point than pure silica fiber. This vid may help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yctRbIZpPeU Silica wick is what you should use, it can be dry burned and black crud buildup can be torched off.

Not quite, if you put a meter on torched SS it still conducts. But current will always take the path of least resistance, in this case the coil..

You need to test the volts under load (vaping volts). 3 NiMHs just don't cut it. Here's a quick test. These batteries (4AA) came off the charger at ~5.5V. Here's what happens with a 2Ω load. Again note 4 AAs. If you are using NiMHs you could get some of these AAs instead. You will need the correct charger. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BPI-4-X-NIzn-NI-ZN-1-6V-2500mAh-AA-Rechargeable-Battery-AA-AAA-Charger-/400535307947?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item5d41c3c6ab They have a higher voltage, they come off the charger @ ~1.67V, and sag less under load.

Sure is the correct term, as you you have modded (read-> modified) your set up. Calling factory made PVs 'MODS' is an incorrect use of the term, as is calling anything that uses a USB cable to feed an inbuilt charger a pass through.

There is nothing wrong with draining Panasonic Li-ions to 3V. If you look at the 2900/3100 datasheets you'll note Panasonic determines the mAh based on a 2.5V cutoff. It's a way Panasonic exaggerates the mAh. FWIW anything between the battery and the atty will impact performance. A traditional Li-Ion battery with a protection circuit (PCM) is still the safest choice and in the long run will also maintain the battery best. A PCM provides protects against over charging, over discharging (which what the OP saw) and dead shorts. And in the event of a dead short it trips almost instantaneously. An IMR also has massive amounts of energy that will be released in the case of a dead short, It may have safe chemistry, but you better be ready to toss your PV if a short happens. Here's some interesting pics of a shorted AW IMR18650/1600mAh cell posted by Old Soldier on ECF. It never would have gotten to that point with a protected, PCM equipped battery. It's also best to suit the battery to the task. As an example with a 2Ω atty/carto you'll need about ~2A, which is quite easy for 18650s. High drain batteries have a huge amount of unneeded energy which is why some can handle a 20A discharge. Kinda like using a sledgehammer to swat a fly off your nose.

Can't quite follow what you are saying, lotsa silica wick on eBay at good prices. This seem decent: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3mm-High-Quality-Silica-Rope-Wick-Temp-Res-1600-C-Perfect-for-Attys-Wholesale-/111118122684?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item19df27febc 15' of 3mm wick + 10' of 32g Kanthal for $10.80 shipped. Should put you at ~ 60¢ a rebuild. More options. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.Xsilica+wick&_nkw=silica+wick&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Get a few of the sweeteners that are available. Liquid sucralose, liquid stevia or EM (ethyl maltol). http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-6650-sweetener.aspx http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-6666-ethyl-maltol-crystals.aspx Or the EM as Cotton Candy. http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-6658-cotton-candy-flavor.aspx Note although EM may not be overly sweet it's usually a good addition for many mixes. You may want to peruse these offerings. http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/c-150-sweet-or-sour-flavors.aspx

I imagine it's the stuff China has always used for their atties. Here's a Joye 510.

Shouldn't be. Then start low.

Came out nice. Too skinny for an 18500?

A knock-off? Joye makes a device like this? 3-6V with inbuilt charging?

Yes, those little notches are the air intakes.

If this is what you are referring to, you can just file the notch(s) at the bottom to make them larger/deeper.

First off the amount of current a charger delivers will depend on the voltage of the cell. With the TF if 2 cells at < 3.6V are placed in it, it will infact provide 500mA to each at the start. As the voltage rises the current will fall off. Take a look at this chart. You'll note the full current is only available for a rather short time, <25% of the cycle. Also note that for the last half of the cycle the current is quite low as the cell is slowly pushed to full saturation.

Well I think the thinner cap is a plus, I don't use metal DTs so I've no problem with heat. As far as price or parts you can get almost 4 of them for the price of one AC9. The newest ones have also gone to a polypropylene tank. The AC9 I would assume is still using PMMA, AKA plexiglass/acrylic.

There is no easy one-size-fits-all answer. It's harder to maintain consistency, from carto to carto with a dremel. Also note the sharp edges you'll end up with can play hell with your o-rings. Even if all the liquid you buy is from the same source, different flavorings (percentages and/or the carrier) can sometimes alter the viscosity of the final product. If you are in it for the long haul a decent carto punch might be your best bet. Smok Tech makes a cheap version of the Siam Mods one but it dulls rather quickly. Clouds Of Vapor has them, might as well get a spare screw at the same time. http://www.cloudsofvapor.com/store/127-new-at-cov/1054-siam-mods-stainless-steel-carto-punch-v2.html?keyword=punch

It's a two channel charger. Mine takes a while but it does in fact turn green. It's also over 3 years old.

IDK, I always rinse out my atties (fill them to the top, let sit and gently blow out the bottom) with pure PG to remove the primer.

I use a lot of Dekang. The Tobacco, Flue Cured and DK-Tab are my favs.

You'll need an adapter with eGo cone threads but the Kanger eVods work quite well and replacement heads are inexpensive.

Get ahold of the Vamo (VV/VW) manufacter, they seem to be good for ~4A in a stacked config. Probably less than ~$25 in bulk. Rip out the guts and have a ball.

Mods are made by modders. Modders for many years have bought things like flashlights, battery boxes, emergency chargers, plumbing pipe/fittings etc and repurposed them. The PVs made in factories are not mods, nothing has been repurposed, nothing has been modded/modified, they come that way. It's the same thing with the catch phrase 'pass through' which has come to mean any PV with an in-built charger. Does Joye make an eGo pass through or PT? Nope. Look it up they make a Joye eGo USB battery, no where do they claim it to be a pass through, which makes sense cuz it's not.