Uma

Scott's (igetcha69) review of the DINGO is out! The DINGO is smaller than the ROLLER, because it is not telescopic... unless you purchase ala carte the roller tubes too!.... otherwise it is a sweet little 18350 mod, with the wonderful ROLLER button.

The name escapes me at the moment, but there's a new chip out that modders are playing with. Mamu made a special mod for Russ of Clickbang.... The NIVEL CHIP!! ... that's it. I understand the 300 Hybrid will have it installed as well. It originated in Russia or Germany, I believe. It does both VV and VG, plus counts your puff or whatever else you want to program it for. It will probably be old hat by this time next year.

Those are clever and beautiful both, Mark! I'll be trying to pick one up after the Holidays sometime too. Probably after April. I'm still enjoying the one I won, and can't believe how little of space it takes up on the tiny end table. It's so handy to use! And I never tire of admiring the beautiful wood..

Kanthal A 32gauge is the typical wire sent out with the genesis type atties. The wicking will be different with various meshes. Your's is probably 325. Try a size 400 or even 500. (some say 500 is outrageously better, while others say it's no different from 400, just more expensive to purchase). I like the 400 for both pg and vg and especially for the mix. In the meantime, you can always thin your VG (little by little!) until you find a good wicking ratio. (distilled water or everclear or vodka or PG) But, the CLONE's wick is small. Hence most of the wicking problem. It's the same difference as drinking out of a maritni straw vs a McDonald's straw. The tiny wick will dry faster, because it can't keep up like a fat wick can. (the clone wick hole is about 1.8mm in size. The MINI DID is about 2.8mm in size. A huge difference!! The DID20 is even larger). The more mesh that can be rolled, the more juice it can hold and deliver. Oh, and Seasoning your wick helps the mesh to wick better too. Liquid is drawn to liquid...

After re-reading today, I see that I left out one very important part. There are SOME Coop leaders and SOME Vendors who constantly try to get these things improved. Because of THEIR due diligence, they are indeed improving, which is obvious when one sees the vast difference between the first clone and the last clone. (oh! even the screws are improved on the AGA-W from what I've read). But, until ALL the leaders are involved, it's a slow process. But it is a process. And the process is in process. Just thought maybe I should clear that up.

LOL, you're welcome! He even has clear wraps now for beauties like the Caravella or Metallic Pink LTV2's. Call me crazy, but I love the fire skull one for my SB. Someday soon....

Changed into something more comfy, but not comfy enough. I need a script writer to come up with something clever, I'm afraid. These did CLONES were the first ones built by China. They tried to copy MMVapors Mini DID, but they didn't do their perspectives homework. They work, and have knurling, but that's about it. They are cheaper than sin, and that's why they became oh so popular. But, they lacked horribly in the materials & craftsmanship dept. Since these first ones came out, the COOP leaders and even many of the Vendors who sell these clones, have been in tighter contact with the Clone manufactures in China. The clones have been improving, and with each new improvement a new name is given. It is becoming like the Bible's "begat" story, and with the Vendor's various names tossed in to boot, it has branches upon branches that all trace back to the first clone. With that said, here's a few of the new and improved versions: AGA AGA-T (not bad! but the center tube is chrome over brass and not ss) AGA-W (doesn't have knurling) Chobra (supposed to be a copy of the Cobra lol, but it's still just a copy of the previous listed, but many prefer this to the first clones). The improvements, sadly, are minute. China likes to save their pennies. The newest and next AGA-T-SS is supposed to be ALL SS, but we'll believe it when we see it. Will they toss in some improved insulators?? That MIGHT happen, but... seriously, I doubt it. They will save where they can save and don't much care if we're totally happy or not. You have to research all over the net for McGyver fixes. For instance, on the AGA-T, we have to unstuff a SS cartomiser and use that for the center tube. (and find connectors and o0rings to fit on the ends). The butt plugs from cartos and so forth can be modded for insulators. (see, what I mean? Those are standard okay strength, and the ones in the clones are like squishing a bug awful). Hopefully, by the time the next new and improved clones hit the coops, they will be improved even more. That's a huge repair list, so don't hold your breath. They need to make the wick holes larger and closer to the center post, the center post hole smaller, the insulators stiffer and stronger, the nuts wider, the materials true SS, the airholes lined up with the wick, .... and on and on. It's up to the VENDORS who are reselling these "awesome clones" to insist on corrected features. They are being lazy, and in a hurry, to make money. (they buy them for 7-10 bucks and resell for 20-40 to more). (it goes by size of batches ordered. The more attys ordered, the more the savings for the "vendor". The more money made by the Vendor, the more they're raved about). There ya have it. Oh! DiscountVapers is at least active in getting spare parts, and better spare parts at that. Keep an eye on their new and improved clone parts. In time, these might become workhorses, but it's going to be awhile. (and they'll never be an equal match for the genuine articles).

Tam! Check out these graphic design wraps by jwraps. They have all kinds of awesome ones. They don't leave glue or residue, they wrap perfectly and have good life.

LOL, I'm a God Poster. LOL Think I'll go change my post title into something a little more comfortable. lol

No, I wouldn't attempt that, tbh. Besides, it would shorten the vaping hours of your battery if indeed the battery and mod withstood it. That's a big "if". There are a few attys out there built with that in mind though, like the Fogatti22 or I think Bliss, perhaps the Silver Dog. There are a lot of good threads all across the net in various forums, discussing the pros and cons of various types of setups, mesh sizes, wire gauge sizes, twisted wire, dual wicks, u-ey wicks, and so on. I wouldn't advise setting up the clone that way though. The insulators, for one, are not strong, the center post is wobbly, the screws are minute, ... it just doesn't have a lot of safety features built into it... the clones are just a cheap way to see if we might like the genesis style of atty, it's not meant to be a workhorse. Perhaps the future ones will be better... we can always hope. Oh, and yes, you can remove coils easily. Removing one at a time until you say AHA! that's what I'm talking about. Just be aware of how high or low your mod's battery is at the time of adjusting...

I'm not sure I understand your question, or problem. What I understand, 2 coils are usually reserved for U-ey type wicks or the new double wick types of gennies. Other ways of using 2 coils consists of a twisted coil. The twisted coil is just that. You take a long length of wire, bend it in half, loop the looped end onto the end of a tool and twist the wire nice and tight without kinking. You then wrap it normally on your wick. Is that what you meant? You were so wonderfully persistent!! Yours is the first time I ever heard about "fire" lol. What a great time we had figuring that one out. Looking back, I bet it seems so funny to you now. OHHH, do tell!! I didn't know you have a genny!! Rock on!!!

Good deal! Glad to hear/see it's going. Careful of that 6v though. That's a sure fire way to burn your juice plus pop a coil... perhaps over amp your mod/battery too. The top pic looks great, nice and even. ! The 2nd pic, it looks like the bottom coil isn't as evenly heated up. If that's true, check to see if your wire stays low to the base all the way til it wraps. You don't want it touching the base, but you don't want a lot of air there either. If it's shorting a little, just push that coil down a little towards the base. (and then even up the others if need be, and retighten the center post nut of course). Glad you stuck with it!! It's so worth the learning curves. You'll see.

Perhaps I came off a little too strong. My apologies. Let me start over. Welcome to VaporTalk, Striker!! What is it about the clones that you like better than the original genuine Mini DID that it was copied after? Me? I like the price much better. Can't argue with that!!! Anything else? Do you like the way the center post hole is large and lets the post move around? Do you like the way the insulators are soft and squishy, easy to tear, allowing for possible hard shorts? Do you like the way the width size of the insulator nuts are so small that they can be easily screwed down inside the center post hole, taking the squishy insulator with it? Do you like the way the chrome polish covers the gold polish that covers the questionable metal of the tank? Is it brass? I've heard it's brass. Do you like the smaller size of the wick hole? Do you like the microscopic screws for the negative post and refill hole? I don't understand your thinking, if it has more to do with things than the price. hmmm, sorry, I guess, even that sounds "awful". I don't mean it to sound awful. Guess what I'm saying, is ..... Prove it buddy. Prove why you like the clone BETTER than the genuine article. I have both. I can take comparison pics if you'd like, to show why I like the genuine article better than the clones. I can put it in writing as well, as to why the genuine article is awesomer. It's a duel dude. Get out your weapon.

Striker!!! Funny meeting you here. and I vehemently oppose your view on the clones. hrrrrmph. I hate the clones in comparison to the real genuine DID and I would never ever ::: insert Chris Tucker's voice here::: never ever ever ever ever ever ever not EVER trade my genuine for a clone. That's a horrible thought, like you said you did. But then, unlike you, I'm not trying to scoop up buyers for my clone coops.... I Luvz ya man, but... come on. The clones are okay to learn with though.

Thanks DayVape! I hope it is helpful to newbies. Hopefully Jdog will pop in and offer some tips too. She has a genuine Mini DID up and running better than mine! I so completely agree about the OHM meter. Without it, one will get HARD SHORTS and possibly ruin the mod. or at the least, go through a truck load of mod springs. It's not worth it. Besides, the OHM meter can be used to check off the store bought attys and cartos too. Even those can cause hard shorts if there's a short in them. The Genesis is just the easiest one ever for fixing those shorts so that they're usable instead of tossed. I've tossed too many attys and cartos in the last few years. Sucks. But, I've never had to toss my Genesis! (genuine DID's). It's impossible to always achieve the same exact thickness of rolled mesh. And when we change from, say, 325 to 400 size mesh or even to 500, we again have a brand new ball game. There is no EXACT ohm reading from numbers. We HAVE to have an OHM Meter reader. Thanks for pointing that out, DayVape!!

haha, love it! At least once a year, I'm shouting from the rooftops over a new to me fantastic flavor with vapor juice. I haven't yet tried the VapeDudes vape. Thanks for the tip, and for the motivation to try yet another brand. Congrats to you for finding yours.

Don't give up yet. It's worth it once you get past the learning curves. EXTREMELY worth it with a genuine genesis, to be honest, but at least worth the while with the clones. Every wick is different. In order to "know" for a fact the ohm, you need an OHM meter of some kind. The one I linked you to, or the provari is good. The first pic shows good even hot coils. Give yourself a pat for that. I'll try to outline some steps for you to check and cross off: 1. torch the wick, either with a torch or over the gas stove top. Try to keep it in the blue flame. The blue flame isn't as hot as the orange flame, which is good, because you don't want to make the mesh brittle. Too hot of a flame will brittle it. Hold it in one place until it turns bright orange, then move to the next spot. Repeat until the entire surface and edges of both sides have been oranged at least once, preferrably twice. 2. Fold over the far edge a little bit, crease it tight. 3. Straighten out a medium sized paper clip, or take a fat needle, and set it on the near edge, and roll the paper clip towards the folded far edge. 4. Check for fit in the hole. Make tighter or looser as needed. It should go in snug, but not tight. Just a little bit of friction. Some vapers prefer loose, to where there is an air between the rolled wick and the mesh. 5. Take nail clippers or scissors and cut the tank's end of the wick at a 45% angle. This allows the juice to enter easier. 6. Torch the wick again, paying extra attention to the newly cut end. You don't want any frayed edges touching any part of the atty/tank/ top cap, etc. 7. OPTIONAL step, and one that I do religously: Torch the rolled wick, then while hot, dunk it into cold water (preferably distilled water). Repeat 2 more times. This will stiffen the wick. (nice if you live on bumpy roads or have a thin wick). 8. OPTIONAL step, and another that I do all the time: Wet the wick with VG or whatever you have on hand. Light it on fire with your match or bic lighter. Let the fire die out naturally. Repeat this 2x's. It's called "seasoning the wick" 9. Cut your wire, and anneal it. Anneal means to heat it with your bic lighter all along it's width. Pinch the hot wire between your fingers and run your fingers along it's length. This smooths out the kinks, plus makes it easier to work with because it also makes the wire less springy. 10. Wrap your coil to your wick. There are many different ways to do it. The main rule on it, is that you want to wrap the coil snug, but never tight and never loose. You want perfect tension, and you will achieve that with practice. Perfect means you can lightly twist and lift the wick out and reinsert easily. You will remove the wick from time to time in order to dry burn your coils. A. Leaving tails for the negative screw and for the center post, wrap your wire around your wick at least 4 times. (many like to do 5/4). Set your wrapped wick into the hole, place the bottom tail under the negative screw and tighten the screw down. Now wrap the other tail and wrap it around the center post and tighten down the nut. Make sure there is not too much room between the center post and the wick. Think Captain Hook and pinch any spacey wire. TAKE OUT THAT PAPER CLIP now. LIFT the wick off the bottom of the tank. You don't want it to touch anything metal at any time. B. Look at the wires. The negative wire should be extremely close to the base, but NOT touching the base. The wires on the coil should be as equally spaced as possible. Make sure the wick isn't touching the center post. Make sure there is no highwire act going on between the center post and wick. C. With an OHM meter, check the ohm. If it's steady, you're good to go. If it says 0 there's a hard short. If it bounces around there's a minor short. Turn off the OHM meter, and with a toothpick or something, play with the coils until they all glow evenly and pretty much simutaneously. If one glows hotter than another, it's usually the coil beneath that one that needs scooting a bit. If the top coil is hot, tighten the nut, or kink a hook, or rewrap that part. Also, Sometimes, we just need to twist and lift the wick a bit to fix all shorts. Sometimes there's a frayed edge or something. Don't despair. You'll eventually figure it out. D. Set it on a mod that has a dull battery. Pulsate the coils. Pulsating will heal most minor shorts, oxidize the wick more, and be safer for your mod as well. Once all coils are glowing nicely, then REWET the wick, and fire it up, and check for spurts and sputters. You're aiming for a nice steady stream of white vapor into the heavens. A few sputters, spits are okay, but if it goes wild on you, you need to scoot some coils or oxidize your mesh more. E. TRIM the top of the wick so that it is level with or below the center post height. Fill up the tank, rewet your wick, and you're good go. Once you've achieved a great setup, you'll see it gets easier and easier and faster and faster to achieve. The good news is, the Wick will last you months and months, and the coil will last for a good 6 weeks or more too. Whenever it starts to lose pizazz, just take off a coil. The more seasoned and oxidized the wick gets, the less coils we can get away with. (LR) The fresher the battery, the hotter the vape too, so keep that in mind whenever lowering your resistance. I know this looks like a lot, and probably looks overwhelming, but just take one step at a time, check it off your to do list, and by the end of day you'll realize that it wasn't that much at all. Good luck.

The clone that you have, has a small wick hole. The smaller the wick hole, the less it wicks. You might have to turn it upside down now and then, like we do the Viva's etc. in order to avoid any burnt or dry hits. First thing, like Jeffb mentioned, is to get an OHM meter. I got mine at MadVapes, but can't find the link right now, but I did find one a COV. http://www.cloudsofvapor.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1334&category_id=127&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=85 It's indespensible. Watch Scott's video again and again. His video is about the real genuine product, not the clone, but it still provides the basics. Todd and AG have a video on how to rig up the clone. AG: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=YjIusGTPB_I Todd: and, of course, there are a lot of others.

I was in the interest coop for the Segali ZmaxV2... and you'd never believe the solutions to problems that are STILL ongoing. To be honest, I would wait before getting one. Check out Rusalka and SanJose's interest thread. They've been trying to go live for months... but keep having to have things corrected. Hopefully the Vendors have warranty plans in place... Oh, and they take flat top aw-imr's. All mine are the regular aw-imr tiny button tops. If you're overflowing in batteries, this might be a headsup in and of itself. But, after all is finalized, these should be awesome!

It's gorgeous Jeff! I bet you keep hitting the button to watch the perfectly matching blue LED light up. I know I would! and I'm getting the Metallic Pink as soon as they restock them. (should be soon Joe said) Pretty cool that the Pink and the Blue sold out in the first day!

Got their promo newsletter... Preorder is 110, and suggested retail price is 129. I'd rather get a new xBox...

haha, yeh, I agree with and echo all the replies. Just think, without the vaping, you would still be in the rut of chain smoking between every quit.

Jeffb! Tomorrow's here, where be you????

That Metallic Blue is gorgeous with the blue LED. Nice choice, Jeffb! I'll be getting the bright Metallic Pink one for sure. Love this LT V2! (the vapeteam or whatever show has a nice view of it) Oh! and Joe Inferno stated that 2 more colors will be added soon, in a week or so (you know the drill), and that there will be "special" color offers now and then. Think Purple, Emerald, Lime, .... whatever.

Oh my oh my, DayVape, we don't really want to go there now, do we?? Oh! I keep saying I be tanked when it's IB Tanked.... so here is the link. They have glass tanks for both the Chids/DUDs/Griffens as well as for the real genuine DID's. http://www.ibtanked.com/