Uma

Beautiful homes, places, guys! Wouldn't it be lovely to win the lottery or make it big with some odd genius product we invent or any other wonderful ways and means to achieve such bliss. ::: off to collect aluminum cans for to buy the first needed window ::: Oh WAIT!! Who needs glass panes when there's tons of glass beer bottles over at Mark's for the taking!! :::: adding a bit of cob to the mix :::::

I just found my dream home. (lol, yes, yet another one, but THIS one is it!), There is tons of trees and river rocks at hand, but it's going to take a lot of glue and a mighty big glue gun to put it all together. But then again, I do have tons of baling twine and duct tape! Show me yours!

I'm sorry for that! The AGA-T is a twist on cap, just like the genuine DID series has. I wouldn't take one out without a twist on cap either!

Sweet! You're set up nicely. I think I am too. Pardon the mess, I can't be bothered to stop vaping long enough to spit shine the SS.

The kick is great! All you need is the Kick and the Kick Extension. Altsmoke sells both. (I still love my SB, even non-kicked, for all my outdoor chores).

That's a pretty bold statement, considering that Jan 17th's huge meeting is still to happen. Hopefully the FDA will finally be forced to remove their lying campaign off their site.

Nice tips!!!!

Just a heads up reminder about warm buttons, courtesy of HealthCabin because of the new Vamo's V2 spring. (an SB spring or Helix spring (hot springs) work great) Emergency Notice Dear customers, We are very sorry to inform you that we stop selling eGo Bamboo APV(Stainless/Chrome/Black Chrome) for a while because the big wide spring in the cap has big resistance, which makes the Bamboo cap very hot when Bamboo is working, especially when Bamboo works at a high Voltage or Wattage with a low resistance atomizer. We are working on new good springs with low resistances and expect to get new springs ready in some days. We will resume selling the products and their caps when the new springs are ready. If you have Bamboos (Vamo's) with the wider big wrong springs, please stop using the products and contact us by ticket system. We are very sorry for the inconvenience. If you have any questions or need any assistance, please feel free to let us know by using Help Desk and submiting a ticket. We look forward to always being able to serve you better. Health Cabin

I love Irish Cream! Send me your wick, hurry! You can even wash the wick under the faucet, roll it pat dry on a paper towel, re torch to dry, then fire season 2x or so, your nicer to you flavors. I know one gal who even tosses her wick into the jewelers sonic washer thing once a month. They're pretty darn tuff and last for months. (fire season: Remove wick from coils, insert the straightened out paperclip into the hole, drip juice on it, light it on fire with your Bic lighter, let the fire die a natural death. Repeat. Take out the paperclip, reinsert wick into coils, drip your fave juice, and vape away).

haha, there is the Variable Volt, the Variable Power/Watt, and now, thanks to the RBA, we have the Variable OHMs. Gawd I love it!

You're welcome! It sounds like the "S" is a nice workable one afterall, like the first reports promised it to be. I have the "T" but not yet the "S" and soon the "T+" will be out and I have a feeling it's the same thing as the "S". (Vendors like to confuse the issue). O-rings ... maybe discountvapors will be carrying them? Radio Shack, Hobby stores, etc.. might have the right size. There's a few o-ring shops on the net, where we can buy colorful ones as well, but I don't have a link, you'll have to google. Good luck!! Looking at your photos, the wick hole is indeed closer to the center post!! Yay!! That was a major problem with the chids, chobra, and previous clones. The AGA-T is too far away too, but manageable. Oh! The tank ml size. When it says 2ml, it's really 1.5ml because of needed airflow room. But, yours sounds even smaller than promised. Go figure eh. You might want to keep an eye out or contact IBTanked for a tank that will fit the S. Now that it's working good, you'll be removing coils, to keep the OHMS where you want em. Isn't life grand! We are no longer stuck with the same coil, nor searching for a 6v mod in order to run those dying storebought coils. We just remove a coil! Easy Peasy. How do the insulators feel on the "S"? Are they like the carto condom type of silicone or are they super squishy, cut like biscuit dough? I hope they've improved drastically, like promised. (if squishy dough, you can cut to fit a carto condom). The refill hole has a plastic stopper? I didn't know that at all. You can break off a toothpick or something to fit the hole after the juice is vaped down some or for when you need to turn it off and pocket it for awhile. (sounds safer anyway). As long as there is a small strawhole in the wick itself, (rolled the wick with a needle or toothpick or straightened out paperclip inside), then it should wick good with the Fill hole plugged as long as there is airflow room in the tank. Should and do are two different things, of course. It sounds like you're experimenting with cause and effects, and are already mastering a lot of the quirks! Pretty soon, I will be coming to you for solutions. Good luck with the o-ring search.

Pretty darn impressive for being a first timer! I'm happy to hear you have it up and running again.

Believe it or not, one of these coilings, that top coil nut will suddenly be a breeze. The dexterity just kicks in and voila! Where is that dexterity until then???? Only heaven knows. Some vapers will actually wrap the wire around the post and leave the nut off. BUT, if you do that, your vapor will change temperature and volume. (possibly flavor?). If you decide to do that and if you have room, add that top nut,anyway, but don't worry about tightening it down. The top nut acts as a vortex thingie. But you had it going your first day out, good job on that!! You obviously have the basics and are doing fine. Now it's just the finessing and troubleshooting. One of the biggest reasons for a popped top coil is from using a mod battery that is not below 3.8 or from using a VV that is not below 3.0 on a new wrap. Did you remember to lower your VV or wait til your battery was low? Another reason is because there is too long of a tightrope wire in between the wick and the Center Post (positive post). Try doing the hook trick. Before the coil leaves the wick to journey to the post, hold it on the wick so that it forms a nice hook. (JunkyRock shows how). This will shorten the distance that the current has to travel. We always strive for the shortest distances. Another reason: Your wick may have become scratched from scooting the wire around. Take the wick out and torch it once again. Just a quickie should do it. Another reason: If the bottom nut loosened at all, moisture may have entered the positive post tube. Tighten the nut again after twisting the atty onto your mod. (dry the center tube out first of course). Also, sometimes if the wick is touching the top cap or the bottom of the tank, it might short out. Make sure the wick isn't touching the body of anything. (check for frayed areas). Double check to make sure the wire is not touching any other wires and that each coil is pretty evenly spaced with each other. The top coil hot spot is a common p.i.a. with all attys. The clones have it more, because the wick hole is further away from the center post than say the genuine DiD's. But, bending the wick slightly towards the post should help solve that. When all is ready to go, with your mod on low VVV or low battery, take out the wick and pulsate your new coils until the hot spots heal themselves. Re-insert your wick, pulsate a time or two, then direct drip several times. Now fill er up if she's cookin. Re-DD the wick and if all is good, start increasing gradually, your VV power. Or switch to a not as old battery but not quite fresh one. Within a half hour you should be going at full power without any problems. (sometimes less, sometimes more). If you don't have used battery, then pulsate your 1/2 hour, with longer pulsates as you go along. It sounds like a lot more trouble than it is. I gave you different scenario's for a "check off list" of things to check for. I probably missed something lol. Don't give up! It's so worth it, to be able to vape for pennies a day and to know how to fix your atty when it wonks out at the worst possible time. Pretty soon it will all be old hat to you. I've been using gennys since June, and have only dealt with one blown top coil and that was on the clone I tried. (haven't touched it since lol, but I don't NEED to, because I have my trusty and well loved genuines). The clones are great for their own reasons, too, and worth getting to know their quirks. Bummers about the top cap being o-rings instead of twisted on. I prefer the twist, so I don't worry about it coming off. I hope you find your 0-rings okay. At least it will be easy to line your airhole up with the wick eh. OHH, and another trick, is to be sure to vape it with the wick pointed towards the ground, to help wet the wick. (especially important on the clones with their small wick sizes). egads, I wrote long. It's really not that much, just different "could be"'s.

Sweeeeeet!!

Until it's easily (not slippery easy, but snug easy) removable, the hot spot will probably continue because the coil(s) is probably digging into the wick. Too tight of coils cause shorts, plus they restrict the wick flow. You can anneal your wire after each un-coil, before you re-coil. Running it between your thumb and finger along the hot wire will smooth the kinks out, making it easy to use again. I like to leave the tail on the center post until after I'm confident it's up and running good. After it's broke in nicely, you'll more than likely remove a coil a week. Oh, and be sure to use batteries that are half used up, so that the coils aren't surged. If you're using a VV, then use it at lowest setting until it's up and running good.

Woooooot!! Congrats on your new RBA journey. To fill: Make sure the needle is dry before inserting, or else the moisture bubbles block the air flow. Empty the tank (using the syringe), pulsate dry burn the wick dry-ish, fill the syringe the rest of the ml limit, wipe off the needle, and either: * tilt the tank like you fill a cup with beer or soda or carto and slowly squeeze the liquid in. * or tilt the tank like above and shoot it in fast * or tilt the tank completely upside down and shoot it in fast. I have the best luck, personally, with the tilt and slow. Sometimes an air bubble will block, and I have to remove the juice, and repeat, but with added poke the bubble jabs first. If the wick is still wet, it will seep up the wick and out the hole, with very little juice added. That's why I pulsate dry burn the wick dry first.

Ahh yes, the Top Coil. That one can be a little p.i.a. with good attys sometimes, but with the clone, it's a given. The chid's clone's wick hole is placed too far away from the center post which means there's a lot more wire between the wick and center post. A highwire act can be found there if you're a flea. To fix this, you'll have to kinda bend the wick over towards the center post, to lessen the gap. But don't let it touch the cp or crease in two. Next, try to take the excess gap out of the wire by making a captain hook's hook right before it leaves the wick. Tighten the top nuts again. Also, did you anneal your wire? Annealing the wire takes the spring out, makes it easier to wrap. Plus it removes the machine oil it may have. Above all else, make sure the coil is not too tight. The top coil will sometimes dig into the wick when it's pulled over to the CP (center post). Can you gently twist and lift the wick out of the coils?

.I echo the above posters, totally agree with them. You might want to dedicate an atty for your strong flavors or different flavor groups. Tobacco (like Dayvape mentioned), Cinnamon, Clove, Fruti, Beverages.... when you expand out into more and more flavors to try. It's easy to keep the atty dedicated, by color coding the atty and the flavor. (colored rubber bands for instance).

Can you post a picture? Is it one red coil or more? Top coil? Bottom coil? middle? Which coil(s) turn red? The red one is your culprit when the wick is wet.

I have and love(d) my Reo Grand! I don't use it much since switching to the genesis rebuildable atty's, but it would still be my favorite out of all the ways and means used before the genny discovery. The rubbery plastic bottles have a soft spot. Take it out of the Reo, empty the bottle into another bottle, then play with the empty bottle until you find that soft spot. Mark it somehow, (sticker or something) and make sure the soft spot is facing the squonk hole after you refill and put it back into the Reo. Some bottles are harder than others period. I don't know why. Try to master the blind squonk too. The blind squonk comes in handy for every type of delivery system from Reo's to Genesis. Don't fire the button, just suck gently until you feel a difference in the pull. You'll probably flood it a few times or more until you learn the feel, just keep practicing. (low nic or 0nic is handy for that). There is also the Chalise and the Era that are rebuildable bottom feeder attys that everybody seems to love. Good luck to ya, and hang in there! Try a different bottle, one that's easy to find the soft spot with. I like to buy juices from Pink Spot Vapor because they have easy to squeeze bottles that fit right into the Reo Grand, and is so easy to change out. (this may vary, with their order purchases, but so far so good). Plus the juice is great in the Reo with a Cisco LR 1.5 atty.

When the wick is good and wet and the coils are not shorting, there won't be any red coils showing. Just vapor. If there are red coils showing (hot spots) even when the wick is wet, you can twist the wick up and around a little. Perhaps there's a non-oxidized spot hitting the coil. (also, doing this, you will know whether or not a coil is on too loose or too tight. You want the wick to be gently snug, but not tight) There is more, but we'll start with that. The insulators in the chid/griffen clone suck. If you have any carto condoms laying around, you can adlib/cut those to fit. The goal is to keep moisture out of the Center Post Tube. Sometimes when we tighten the atty onto the mod, the center nut loosens (on any rba). Be sure to tighten as needed. If it produces vapor with the cap off, but not with the cap on, you might need to lift and shorten your wick so that it doesn't touch the bottom of the tank or go above the center post height. Line your air hole up with your wick for good vapor. Off Kilter for stronger throat hit. You might need to lightly wet sand the cap til it fits, checking the fit with every grind. Or, add an o-ring so that the cap sits differently. (the clones aren't precision made, we have to fix it ourselves). I hope it's one of the above... Once you have a genny up and running, there's no going back. They're amazing!

What kinds of problems are you having setting up your clone? Wicking? OHMs? Hot Spots? Shorts?

Bummers all the way around. I hope you find work soon!!

The thickness of the wire gives differet ohms, yes. The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire. I think, if I remember right, you ended up with a CHID/Griffen/dud/ type of clone right? If my guess is correct, the one you have was the first off the China line... which means they've since improved V A S T L Y but still, of course, have a ways to go before they're spot on with the genuines. I would search for the AGA-T+ that will be out soon. Or the AGA-S (it's the T but all SS) The chid sucks. Make sure you thoroughly wash the machine oil out of the atty before using. Dry thoroughly. Use a hair dryer or a low oven on that tube. (this goes for any rba) Make sure your center post TUBE thingie is dry as a bone inside. (this goes for any rba) After you twist it onto your mod, tighten the center post nuts again. (this goes for any rba) Did you pick up a cartomizer/atomizer OHM reader? Those are real handy for figuring out shorts.

King Orchid of ebay. Make sure you get Kanthal A1 either 32 or 30 or 28 gauges are good. He has some in stock now, but he'll be out soon. Keep checking with him til you nail some. He restocks every week usually. http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-1-32-awg-resistance-heating-wire-100-ft-/251177457898?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7b57d8ea Nice price on the wick's eh. Plus one wick will last months... a good coil will last 6 weeks more or less. (I'm on my 7th week on my Mini DiD right now).