Tektronik

Trash can, toilet paper roll, hand sanitizer, and one of those little cups that come with cough syrup that's filled to 1.5 tsp of EVERCLEAR pure grain alcohol for some quick cleaning. Oh, and a small can of compressed air to blow out the alcohol-it works real quick! Al of these items are either on my desk of in my vaping tackle box. I spend a lot of time at the computer doing schoolwork when i'm home, so it's all here.

I don't have a high voltage solution, but I do have those drip tips from nhaler. They sure beat removing and replacing those regular whistle tips every time you add drops. I was getting juiced too, but what I've been doing to sort of help that was when I put my device down, I lay it on its side. The way I see it, the atomizer gets hot, the juice heats up and thins out, wants to run. By laying it on its side, whatever juice was collected under the heating element starts to come out as well. I use 901s so I make sure the hole on the side is facing up. The warmed juice can touch the drip tip and pull down some of that condensation that was forming around it was well. It all seems to work for me. I might sound crazy right about now by thinking that's whats really happening in the chamber, but I get juiced a lot less when I lay it on its side. Also, every once in a while, when I do get juiced, I run a q-tip down the hole and back up just once to soak up whatever is coming up. Hope this helps.

Those were some truly awesome explanations. Thanks so much for spilling your brain out all the floor, cleaning up the mess, and sorting everything out neatly on the table. It would be nice to see this info on batteries moved to a separate thread labeled "Battery Talk" or something similar. That way it won't get lost in the archives over time! Thanks once again from the SME on batteries

I'd have to agree with you on that VP2. I stopped using it for a while, and went to that plastic box mod I made to hold me over. After about a week of not using it, I went back to it, and it works fine again! I cleaned out the atty connector with alcohol, switched to a 901 atty with adapter, and it seems like new again. I also adjusted the set screw for the switch. Hmmmmm. Now the T-tip i'm using on it brought back everything I liked about it when I first bought it and more!

Great info! Thanks a million! You're the resident battery SME (subject matter expert). Yes I've noticed that flicker on my 510 charger when I first got it too. I used to be worried about leaving them on the charger overnight for fear of losing battery life, but I guess it was I who was "conditioned" by the bad experiences with leaving batteries on chargers too long. So, then why did my laptop battery go from 4 hours of running time to 45 minutes? I used to believe that it was because I'd leave it hooked up to the wall all the time and constantly charging and that would kill it. My lenovo laptop even had a battery maintenance feature where it would charge all the way, run it down and then charge back up all the way when you told it to "re-condition" the battery. Even though it was a Li-Ion battery. Another thing: i suppose that the voltage check on the charger is a good thing because those OEM 510 batteries don't have protection on them, but what about the 14500 batteries and all others with the PCB on it? Does the charger that we use for them do the check or does the PCB handle the cut-off? Is it both? I know your BB uses the 14500 as does my VP2. I have that single battery charger that can charge several different models of 3.7 volt batts. If both, than do you think that dual redundant check is even necessary?

Yeah, I agree, once that atomizer gets hot to the touch, the viscosity of the juice changes and it runs out of it and everywhere. Problem is, when I'm at my computer, I have a tendency to chain vape, and can't help but heat up that atty to that point. Maybe I need to wrap my VP2 in a cloth and keep it on with a rubber band. Would that qualify as a mod did I just invent a mod? hehe

Since you now have some 808 carts, would you mind taking a resistance reading off one of them? I like to add that to my list for future referrence. Thanks.

Brandon, Let me ask you your opinion on initial charging the Li-ion batteries with PCBs I always hear that when you first get your batteries, you should charge for at least 8 hours. Would you still have to do that if your batts were the protected type with the PCB? I mean the PCB prevents overcharge and overdischarge anyhow, so why 8 hours, won't it just cut off the charge when the battery reaches the upper voltage limit anyhow?

Got my D-tips in the mail today. I really like them for use on my plastic box mod. They don't throw the weight off like the T-tip does. Which one do I like better? I suppose I like the T-tip because the additional metal cools off the atomizer much faster, but the D-tip is comfortable to vape with. They both have about the same hole diameter.

I'll tell you what. It looks slick. I just got my t-tip in yesterday and the first thing I did was put it on the VP2. It looks really slick. If it weren't for the brass connector the thing would be completely silver! I'm using a stainless 901 atty from dietsmokes to match the tip. My VP2 seems to be working again after not using it for a while. I'm gonna use for the next couple of days again to see if it starts acting up again.

Just a hoax? Ahh that's too bad cuz when I heard about that, I've wanted to -up until just now- to pry one of those open because my kids go through AA batteries like crazy! Never got to it though, should have, then I wouldn't be passing along ignorant advice. Thanks for clearing that up!

I agree that stacking them end to end would give one long and obtrusive device, but you can always put them together, side by side in a 2 by 2 battery holder, and place that holder in something like a project box with plenty of room to spare for a nice switch and whatever atty connector you want. That was what I was thinking about doing anyhow. You could still wire them in such a way as to have two pairs each in series and parallel those two together. Ever have one of those big blocky 6volt batteries? The ones like you usually get with a cheap flashlight with a handle? If you were to take the casing off the battery inside you'll find 32 AA batteries. You get 6 volts out of it. If each AA is 1.5 volts, you'd have to wire together 8 sets of four in series and parallel all 8 sets together. I wonder if you could use big @$$ battery that with an atomizer? Hmmmmm....

Wow! That's actually going to produce about 9.13 watt vape! A little more when the battery is fresh, and a little less when the battery is low. It's still within what most people consider to be ideal range for a 510 atomizer! Can't wait till those get re-stocked!

You know, after I made this single 14500 box mod to hold me over till I get my VP2 fixed, I started thinking about going to higher voltage with another battery box mod.. I mean you can, it's just that I'm a bit scared of using the 14500 battery to do it. Seems like there's a reason everyone uses the RCR123a style of battery. There must have been some planning behind it. Your idea of using 4 batteries and run them in series and parallel at the same time that may be the answer! Series for the voltage, parallel for the current requirements/stability. I'd definitely take the advice of the others and use a voltage regulator. Keep in mind that a fresh 14500 battery starts at 4.1-4.2 volts. That would put you at about 8 volts on fresh batteries. I'd be very interested in seeing the outcome! Good luck!

It really was the only option I had left. I almost hated to admit it, but it was because of the nicotine! I had just placed several orders in at different places- new attys, some T-tips, more juices, etc. This vapor culture is now a part of me, and like I said before, I don't like analogs anymore. I was offered a marlboro light at work a few days ago-i tried it. It wasn't the same as it used to be. I felt nauseated and actually started dry heaving! After looking at the receipt from Radio Shack, the battery box and switch cost a mere $4.18 plus tax. I used my 14500 batteries and they fit right in! I'm thinking of making one or two more so I can give them to friends who want to try it out; just need to find another charger and a few more batteries and I think it would be a great intro device!

Wanted to share a unique experience with you all. Last night, at work, I noticed my beloved VP2 started acting up. The switch really started to stick, and the lights would flicker on and off when I used it. By the time I got home, it got worse. It's still under warranty, and I'm sending it off this week, but I quickly realized that I had no viable backup since I loaned out my OEM 510 starter to a friend a few days ago. I didn't want to ask for it back, but started getting desperate. I refuse to go back to analogs to hold me over! When I woke up this afternoon, the VP2 still half worked, but I knew, just knew it was only a matter of time. I use that thing so much, carry it everywhere, and vape constantly with it. Ordering another starter kit would take too long, so my only option left was to make one! Quickly got dressed and ran to Radio Shack before they closed. Got there like 10 minutes before closing and got the battery box and switch. Got extras just in case I messed something up. In about an hour, I had a working battery box mod. I used 901 atomizer connection I pulled off an old stick battery (thanks, Wagex for that quick advice) and used epoxy to seal it. I couldn't believe how simplistic the whole thing really is. no LEDs in this one, just needed something to hold me over till I get my VP2 fixed, but liking it more each time I pick it up. I'd post a picture, but I don't know how you do that. Besides it's just a simple mod, nothing fancy, but it works well! By the way, would someone who has a VP2 please put in a fresh battery and take a voltage measurement at the atomizer connection and post it here? I'm curious to know if its just me, or is this faulty switch attenuating the voltage output. It's low; a fresh battery at 4.2 volts reads only 3.26 at the atty connection, whereas my little battery box mod reads 4.2 at the connection.

No way..... Was watching more closely than normal. This video is very disturbing. I was just waiting for that kid to put that thing in his mouth, if he did, I would have had to create an account of my own just to give him a piece of my mind!

Just wanted to do a follow up on this thread and let everyone know what I've tried to do to get this thing to work... RooR said to try a knock off 510 atomizer. Luke from VaporGalaxy told me he had some so I ordered one to see if it would work. Here's what happened: 1. When I tried it on the computer usb, it worked fine. 2. When I used the wall adapter, the LED came on like it was going to work, you could hear the "sizzle" from the atty, but immediately (like one second later) the LED flashed five times and the sizzle went out. Press the button again, and the LED just flashes. Disconnect from the wall, reconnect, and the atty fires for one second then quits again. 3. tried it in the car with the usb adapter and it does the exact same thing. So, this attempt did not work for me. Oh, well, at least the thing still works when hooked up the computer, and that's where it will stay until it finally quits for good.

I'm going to order some new ones on Monday. When they come in, I'll follow up!

These two atomizers were bought last year. I bought this 901 kit off my co-worker who introduced me to this last May (2009). He quit using and went back to analogs, so he sold the kit to me for 20 bucks. They are both used pretty heavily, but still work. If Brian's is at 3.7 and his is newer, that might have something to do with it. I need to buy new attys.

Just took a new Joye 510 atomizer out of the little white box and plastic it was wrapped in. I got 2.2 ohms. So that rules out any inconsistencies with my multimeter. It's right at what yours is reading for 510s.

Well, that answers that! I guess I don't need to try a 302 (801) atty anymore to see what the difference is! they're about the same as a 901, right?

Took readings 3 times on each one (I only have two) both are averaging ~3.2 ohms. I just noticed something too, they have SLB printed on the bottom.

did you dry your attys all the way before testing the ohms? both of mine are wet, not sure if that's going to affect the reading. I'll give it a shot.

I've just printed that up and put a copy of it in my Vaping tackle box. Thanks, mcquinn for taking me back to 1993 when I first went through fundamental electronics at tech school at Lowry AFB in Denver, Colorado! That base was closed about two years later, but you still brought back good memories! Brian, any info on 901 attys? So, 11 watts for 5 volts with a 510 atty. I heard Cisco talking about that once on Vaporcast. That's probably that "sweetspot" for vapor production that everyone has been talking about. What about battery life? How do I put this to question? Ummmmm, Ceteris paribus, would the battery life be less or more with the combination of a high volt atty on a high voltage device when compared to a low volt atty with a high volt device? I assume that answer would parallel the comparison of a low voltage device. Thoughts?