Poppa

blu: I think the mod mentioned is for their own product, not GP.. I'd still rather just slap-up a VV board & box. Although.. I've seen some "coppers" that were drop-dead gorgeous works of art.

Why not adjust the voltage properly? Why not select decent resistance (ohms) Why not wrap your own "wick & wire"? I've seen a lot of folks talk about connectors in place of resistance/voltage/amerage/wattage - it seems self-destructive.

heh.. http://www.bestecig.com/help.asp?id=47 instructions.. http://altsmoke.com/....html?mode=list - more instructions.. And, a Quote: Meanwhile, That flavor is traditional to clearomizers and tanks.. Has to do with crappy designs and leftover oils and such on wicks and parts that heat.. For this reason most folks: Dryburn any synthetic wicks on purchase; Rinse-out clearo and tanks with either vodka or everclear (hi-proof). I've also used rubbing-aclohol, but rinse like mad with hot water, too. Rinse with hot water and allow to airdry before filling. Hope that helps!

5-clicks on/off. Hold on to "fire" - should be a 10-sec cutoff and irritating flashes at that point as well.

Began vaping at 1630.. "LO" finally kicked in at 2330: 8 hours of solid chain-vape off three different tanks with 3 differing resistances and between 3.7 and 4.5 volts. I'm going to call this a complete Win.

Heh.. I can assure you that the tongue and brain can sense the nicotine. It's got a "bite" on the tongue, and I was getting really, really tired of NOT sensing it as I mixed a no-nic flavor for the nephew.

OK, I suffered the webcam and a softrware download:

Oi.. Sooooo nice to have a VV again, even if it's 10440-powered and a transplant ;-P My Puck can have a few hours off, and I'm vapin' up a storm around 4.5 volts ;-)

And, a VW mean "Bug" - old skool, not that silly knockoff with a radiator! ;-)

fits into the tube with batteries; uses a tiny pot for adjustment; must open the tube to adjust - w/o volts; must meter to ascertain results; costs around $50.

Yeah, I rather expected that. Since I only own protecteds, and the silly pcb itself seems to be protected as well, I think the series-issue is a non-issue. Somehow, I think the whole affair is a fright-campaign and finger-pointing at idjits.. I can easily imagine unprotected batteries shorting/discharging with much the same result is huge-*** caps, (or - remember the coils behind old tv's? ;-). Parallel shouldn't be any sort of issue as long as the batteries have the same ratings, afaik: if they are all 350mah, then everyone will be playing well together - mixing say.. 600mah and 300mah in series sounds rather dangerous, although in parallel that too might be legit. Anyway, I've got 3 holes to align & drill, (CA'd pcb in for alignment/test), and a pile of 10440's to charge up - looking more and more like I'll get it to work properly without calling upon Cthulhu and his minions!

I found a few I liked, I disliked the price and switched to DIY. "Desert Ship" and "USA-Mix" are both decent, the latter nice & harsh.

..and about $25 in parts, (less at their quantities)..

Had one - different brand-name - didn't play VW games at that point. It worked. It chipped/scratched - I sent it back for a refund. From what I read, Variable-Wattage isn't really as wonderful as initially suggested. YMMV Rather have a boxmod.

I stopped buying premade juices, and stocked-up on nicotine, pg, vg and flavors: both companies offer flavors and I stick to tobacco-like tastes/scents. Some recipes are here. Yes. I too prefer a higher nicotine-content, as it slows my vaping and battery-life is extended. (mind with you, I have no plan to reduce nicotine to zero: any reductions in my recipes are experiments with flavor/bite or necessity).

But, wait! You forgot Duty Cycle! (since we already debate watts VS volts&ohms ;-) And, hey! Current Drain! (poppa chuckles ;-)

series & parallel are indeed voltage vs current - I was more concerned about "The earth will explode!" info there ;-) Much more a convenient size than the 18350's. Well, if there was abs to cement, yes - have it at hand. Issue is the protected cells are each about 3mm longer than the vv350 tube, so my cutting it left a neat gap between top and bottom caps.. Alas, the epoxy-puttys will fill the gap, yet not adhere to the abs. That ship has sailed, and my further examination of the circuits indicates I can get them all unglued and lay them flat, so that too seems Solved.

Also note: A lot of people automatically assume "tank" implies a "carto-up-the-center".. I view them as simple as eGo "tanks"; and ranging to as complex as a Vivi [mini]-nova, Vision Version Two/Thor (clearo), or the Vivi Tank.

JQ: shorthand for yer nick ;-) Those were eGo-T's? C's? Twists?

I like KISS: "It's a flashlight - fake it!" Seriously, the mention of the atties and resistance really is something that saves money, time and drustration early on. (and, the url I threw JQ covers basics)

I did throw you a link in PM, JQ.. You might find that useful. As far as ohms go, unless you get VV right off the bat (like a Twist, for example), you likely want several different ohm-attys with which to experiment. (Each will 'taste' different). Either a Thor/Vision Clearomizer kit with 3 different atties, or perhaps a Vivi Nova (again, a set of atties). I've not seen a Mini-Nova "kit" with a variety of atty, so the prior two remain my suggestion - and the Nova holds a nice 3ml. Under 2ohm is LOW (LR), meaning higher current-flow and Hotter; Under 3ohm is STANDARD (SR), and the variations are about 1/2 ohm either way - less current, cooler; 3 and above is HIGH (HR), and you run less current and much cooler coils and vape. With something like an eGo stick, LR tastes better to me - YMMV. With the Twist and other VV, SR works Jus'Fine™, because you can control the voltage and current external to the coil. With my Puck, I tend to coil atty somwhere between SR and HR and just deal with the variations. Hope this helps.

OK, so.. Finally tired of screwing around with my Varistack/vv350 and its stupid tube not fitting my protected 18350's.. I already used a pipe-cutter on the ABS "tube" and soldered a better-quality ground line in, but nothing I have want's to bind with the ABS to form a longer tube, (several varieties of epoxy-putty simply harden and never bind). Looking around, I recall I've a tiny, attractive psp "power supply" case that is designed for 4xAAA in series.. Anyone have a sensible reason why I can't hack the connectors to provide 2x(2x10440) - 2 pairs in parallel to the vv350 circuitry? I suspect it would be a per-day vape, recharging each night - since I was getting nearly 2 days out of a pair of 18350's before the stupid device started gibbering "LO". These are still "protected" batteries, but at least they fit in a tidy little "boxmod" case. Worst-case I can see is that the pushbuttons are 90-degrees opposed and don't really apply well to a flattened package. Not a deal-breaker, but irritating.

Happily for Darwin and evolution, you can't make people smarter. As long as we can buy solder and batteries, I'm not overly worried about idiots trying to blow their faces off. You can't protect folks from themselves and frankly, getting them out of the gene-pool before they perform bodily-functions in it is Mo Betta. Nothing we can do about the docs sad because they don't get their fee for visits to prescribe - and nothing to be done about a behemoth looking for more greenbacks from consumers in a "minority". I'm just wondering how one acquires flavors and nic-liquid from a "black market"/"dealer". ("Cheer up! It could get Worse! - And, I did and they did.")

The eGo-T and the tanks are.. Well, good intro anyway.. (I got tired of the tiny capacity, then they start leaking, THEN you buy more plugs, etc, etc). The Vision Version Two clearo's work well; the CE6 and E1's (Discount Vaper nomenclature at least) worked well and tasted nice. The durability of the latter two is lower, the former higher, (the former in an offbrand that's nice is a Thor, also from Discount Vapers). I've packed my VV2's and Thor for the nephew - I just discovered Mini-Nova's. 2ml and much easier to work with.

I've several clones, and I hacked a Vivi Tank into a genesis as well. I think the toughest propositions are: capacity and "can I get my hands in here to work on it?" THe phoenix is *tiny*, the Vivi Tank mod is.. well, I hate the o-rings.. The DID and clones are mostly foriegn, the Cobra looks nice - never seen a hellfire. Part of the issue is that folks cobble these up from solid metal - as a hobby. All you need is a wick, pos/neg posts and nichrome - the rest is all debateable. These inclinations to too much metal and lathe/mill means Mo Money. I entertain myself by re-reigging everything I get to SS, and a lot of them are a pain to wire - the coils can be a bear.