Tam

I was going to say the same thing. Every bottom feeder I've ever used filled from the bottom.

This may be a stupid question but are you filling from the top or the bottom?

When needed I've just held in the vapor a few extra seconds and noticed it produced a visible difference in the amount of vapor I exhale.

Still doing good, B! Get back on it and I'll be over here with my pom poms cheering for your next weigh in.

Only if you want to be able to recharge the battery.

No, they aren't. I can hurt not to get an ohm meter. If you're rebuilding coils, for safety's sake, a dedicated ohm meter should be the very first thing on your shopping list even before you buy anything or do anything with wire!

No. They are most certainly NOT. Like Joe said above, there are several different direct drip atomizers out there that will not break the bank and they're not rebuildable. There are bridged and bridgeless atomizers in 510, 901, 306 (I don't think I left any out but I might have...). At the Vapor Talk store you can get a basic but good quality 510 atomizer that is fairly inexpensive to try. If you're getting an atomizer I would strongly suggest getting a drip shield from Empire Mods to cover it. Make sure it says "EGO" in the name so that it will cover the eGo threads on your Twist and/or Spinner. Atomizers tend to have a natural leak (air holes) in the connection end and you'll find juice running down your fingers and battery. Not fun. Just regular direct dripping has a learning curve. An HH.357 is my atomizer of choice but it has a learning curve even for experienced drippers. I always recommend a regular atomizer to start. Plus, the HH.357 is around $22 and $24 for the custom made while the 510 atomizer can be anywhere from $3.50 - $9 or so. As for mods, I've put my RDAs aside and use them with my KPT 2/3, Anyvape Davide and Aerotank. Listen to Earthling, he gives good advice in his post above.

The first thing I'd tell you to try is to put in a new coil. Sometimes, the coil is bad even right out of the box, and will leak all over the place. It could also be that you might've gotten some knock off coils and not genuine Kanger Evod dual coils. Those two things are usually the main culprits. I've never heard of 8 ohm stock coils. Do you mean 1.8 ohms?

Is what you were talking about the KP long barrel?

First, it helps if you'll let us know what exactly it is that you're using. What's the type of tank? What kind of battery do you have? What ohm coil is in your tank? This type of information is needed so we know what it is that we're dealing with.

The Copper Penny is a gorgeous mod. Saw one as a door prize at a Vape Meet recently. Hate to admit it but I think I drooled a little bit.

Moving thread in 3...2...1 Welcome to Vapor Talk!

You're truly awesome when you swing the ban hammer, Jeff.

Go ahead and ask. I'll hold Jeff off for you.

I'd say your next step is to do more research into all that you need to know before coil building. There's a lot to learn. The first item on your shopping list should be an ohm meter.

The nic content can make a difference in harshness but you'll want to keep a higher nic level until you're off the analogs for some time. It will help cut the cravings and will help with the withdrawals from the myriad of other carcinogens and other noxious things in regular cigarettes. If it were me I'd check the PG/VG ratio and the resistance of the coil first. Nic level would be the last thing I'd touch -- for now. Innokin iTaste has several different types of VV and VV/VW selections. Only you will know what works best for your situation. The only reason why I suggested going with a VV battery to start is so you can have a dependable battery that's relatively simple to start. Like you're finding out with trying to dial in the tank and juice and such -- do you really want to mess with even more stuff on your battery while you're still learning? For me, that would be the one more additional part of a learning curve I'd prefer to let wait until later when I'm more confident in what I'm currently using. That's just my two cents. YMMV.

Welcome to Vapor Talk.

Thanks for passing that along. I'll give it a try next charge.

What is Jessie's method? I went back a page or two in this thread but I must've missed it.

Welcome to Vapor Talk.

I believe your mod should be at around 3.7v. What resistance is in your coil? That will make a difference in the amount of vapor you produce. A 2.0 - 2.5 ohm coil will not produce a whole lot of vapor with 3.7v. Also, what's the PG/VG ratio in your juice? A higher VG ratio will produce more vapor.

The Aerotank base has an airflow controller that allows you to control how much air is getting through to better customize your vaping experience. Some people prefer a tighter draw so you can close the air holes a bit to what you like. Others prefer an airy draw so you can open it wide to let the maximum amount of air in. Much better than the original that is set with no way to change the air flow going to the coil.

I'm with Bebop. The iClear 30S that came with my iTaste VTR was nothing short of dismal and...icky. It never worked well and when it did, it leaked all over the place. The KPT 2 with an Aerotank base is miles better imo.

I see Jeff's ban hammer arm is in great shape today.

Scroll down and watch the video. http://www.avidvaper.com/products/HH.357-Cisco-Spec-Hybrid-510-Atomizer.html