alekos557

http://evolvapor.com/our-products/#DNA12 They also have the new DNA20 chip with screen coming out before Xmas

The Evercool chip. http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ptr08100w.pdf The LM2596, you can pick them up on E-Bay. Mad Vapes has a VV voltage chip kit that you can get for cheap also. The nice thing about these is that all parts are included...no hunting! If this is your 1st VV mod...I would recommend the MadVapes kit. It is good practice.

Evolve is coming out with the new DNA20 (with screen) before Xmas. That might be a good starting point. They are the folks who make the Darwin and the Kick.. 20 Watts of power... should be enough to blow your hair back. No need to stack batteries.

tried a pen...not horrible anyway.

18350 Purpleheart Color will deepen to a dark purple over time.

I had never done a tubular mod, so it was time. 14500 AW IMR Bloodwood with a digikey switch.

18500

A little pipe, 18500 nose warmer. 1st one done on lathe.

Yes, I did. I need to find another vendor for pipe stems also, wee bit steep in the price.

New mod with a new type of finish. Madrone with Bocote. Not done with stem yet.

New finish technique used with this one, very shiney and durable, Madrone and Bocote.

I don't even want to think about carving the hole in the wood for this. Really would open up some new shape options for mods.

I guess I will get it started. For Tanner a Skate pro in Sparks Nevada

Bigger is easier for me, small is where I run into the difficulties.

Beautiful work, and a great idea!!! The finishing is what I have never had time to work on. I have managed to pick up a double polishing wheel so far. I guess I had better take a pen turning class.

blucavvy, I have no idea if it is permissable to sell anything on this forum. Still pretty new. mcquinn is right on with the "anti-switch"

Butterflym, I usually tell people that cartos last for about 1 15ml bottle of juice,(but personally I normally get twice that much life). I try most of the new equipment when it comes on the market, (have a part time job at a vape store), but I always go back to Boge LR cartos.

Noalox anti-siezing compound should be available in the electrical section of Lowes or Homedepot, or your local hardware store. I use it on all my metal threaded parts especially aluminum.

myPVshop.com has replacement DCT cartos from 1.5ohm- 2.5ohm. On flooding, Just chain vape it for a couple of minutes and the flooding should clear up. To prevent flloding especially on a refill, only fill 3/4 then just push cap down far enough to barely have o-ring touch tube and tilt downward so the hole in side of carto is in the air bubble then slide tank top the remainder of the way on. Otherwise you are flooding the carto right from the start. Oh and use code 10for2012 for a 10% discount.

When filling try to ensure you do not overfill,(up to base of rubber max). Also don't let fluid pour into small tube which is under drip tip. If you are getting excessive leakage, make sure fluid doesn't leak into button area of the battery. It is not sealed and will short out the chip.

The most common issue I have found with the ego batteries button sticking down is that this small housing for the chip has broken loose inside the metal cap. This can be readily repaired with a little due care. myPVshop.com has ego-t batts in stock ,(the site says they still have megas, but they out of stock),for 16.99 plus shipping, so it is probably not worth the effort to repair. (Any damage to or tampering with battery voids the warranty, and is done at your own risk) I have a special table set up with gloves eye protection etc. First a safety issue.....do not disassemble the battery pack that is inside the tube!!!! It is not that interesting anyway, several foil strips coated in chemical compounds(Lithium ion for one) It is very easy to creat a "run away" if disassembled. The entire thing is incased in a plastic wrap to protect it, just don't tamper with it. Back to the repair. The chip has a tactile switch which is depressed form outside by a small translucent button. The housing holding this chip has moved inside of the housing allowing the plastic button to drop and become wedged. I use large needle nose pliers and a shop towel to remove metal threaded portion. Wrap threads to protect from pliers. I just do one partial wrap, and from the top down grasp the chrome portion with the pliers, holding batt with other hand. Apply pressure sideways(rocking slowly) and the two portions will seperate. Be gentle. You will probably see that the plastic chip carrier which is supposed to be glued into chrome portion has came loose. It needs to be reglued( superglue, 1/4 drop) There are 2 notches that it will slide into to ensure proper alignment. The plastic button needs to be reinserted back into its hole prior to this of course. If any wires are broken now is a good time to resolder them. There is also a small ground wire from battery to bottom cap that can break on occasion, this can be resoldered. In closing....SAFETY FIRST...gloves, eye protection, rubber apron.

I have to agree with the above listing, but add that they can be damaged by being carried in the pants pocket. The Vision 1, 2, or 3( the rebuildable version3 is the fragile one) is also a good choice. I am also a big fan of the Boge LR carto.

Just a simple little 18500 pipe, Zebrawood. With a cage for the animalistic AW IMR 18500