Rixter

I've not used any Ni200 premade coil heads in my Subtanks so I can't speak about those, but I have made coils for the Subtanks' RBA heads and they perform beautifully. I also refitted an eGo One tank's coil head with a Ni200 coil and it works just as good. I think that where TC really shines is in RDAs and tanks where you can't really see what's going on under the hood. It's really hard to see your juice level in an eGo One tank (I've unintentionally run out of juice in it several times) and with most RDAs, so when you run dry, TC kicks in and keeps your coil temp from skyrocketing, thus eliminating charred wicking material and a burning throat and watering eyes. Run dry with no TC on a Kanthal build and...well, you know what happens.

​I use mine all day, every day, and I can assure you that's exactly what it does. When using a Ni200 (nickel) coil in temperature control mode, the mod adjusts your power level down to maintain your pre-selected coil temp.

I bought a Heatvape Invader Mini 50W with temperature control and it works as advertised. I will not buy another mod without TC. There's no gray area...if a vendor told you that TC doesn't adjust your power to keep you at a constant preset coil temp, then he/she doesn't know what they're talking about.

Sounds like you're doing everything just as you should. I build my own coils which requires preheating the coil before wicking, so I have to let it cool to room temperature before attaching it to the device. Just make sure to manually prime the wick in the coil head with a little eliquid before putting it in your filled tank. By the way, dry-firing a Nickel coil shouldn't affect it's performance at all...the whole premise of TC was to prevent skyrocketing temperatures when your wick goes dry.

Describe in detail the procedure you follow when installing a new coil. Please include the type of coil you are using.

The starting temperature of the coil when you attach it the device has a lot to do with how it will perform. Once you get your coil set properly and wicked, remove it from the device, let it cool to room temperature, and then attach it to the device so it can read it as a new coil.

​I did, but mine's been performing well. It occasionally shuts itself off after a short time of sitting unused and reverts to default settings, but not very often, and that's almost always when using Kanthal coils as opposed to Nickel.

​V2 has a black sleeve around the clear plastic box and V1 has a white sleeve around the clear plastic box, but you can eliminate the guesswork by just going here.

You know, I can't really think of any other mod that I've ever wanted to own more than one of besides this one. I enjoy these so much that I can see me having several of these so I wouldn't have to switch out atties.

Heatvape Invader Mini 50W V2 Updated Firmware & New Packaging MSRP is set $64.99 by Heatvape

I've been looking around on the web trying to find some extra adjustable connection top caps for the Heatvape Invader Mini 50W but have had no luck so far. I think it would a lot easier switching out atomizers if you could just leave the Invader's connection ring on them, and they make a pretty stable base for your atties when they're not in use, too. I emailed Heatvape about where to buy them in the U.S. and I'm waiting on a reply...I'll post their information as soon I get it.

​That's weird because I've also heard about people using twisted Nickel and Kanthal (for added coil strength) strands successfully in TC mode. The TC circuit should recognize the path of least resistance, which would be the Nickel wire strand.

​Glad to here it, Tam.

​Thanks, man. I've been wanting to take a couple of days off work anyway, so it was perfect timing.

Definitely the mod's fault. Rubber O-ring to keep it from making a connection instead of spring. Should've known better. I claim complete responsibility.

​ Sorry guys, but I've been a little "distracted" lately. I had an IMR battery pop (and blaze) on me yesterday morning while installing it in a mech mod (Grand Vapor Sentinel clone) and it destroyed the mod and burned my hand pretty good (2nd degree). I didn't know IMRs would flame...now I do. As far as temperature control mods go, I've only used the Heatvape Invader Mini 50W, but I would recommend it to anyone who's looking to find an affordable TC mod that works as advertised. I really love mine and I use it every day with an eGo ONE 1.8ml tank. I disassembled the stock 1Ω coil head and refitted it with a .15Ω Ni200 coil (12 slightly spaced wraps, 3mm, 28g) and run it on the Invader Mini at 400F and 20W. It's the perfect mouth to lung setup for me. I also use the Invader Mini with a Kanger Subtank Mini base with bell cap and RBA head (12 tight wraps, 2.5mm, 28g) which meters at .12Ω. This setup has a lot of airflow and since I use it for direct lung hits, I prefer it set to 450F and 25W.

There are quite a few TC box mods out there now at really great prices, but the Invader Mini is the only one I know of that will work after you drop it on a hard surface. It's built like a tank and priced lower than any other TC mod I've seen.

Maybe a little less than a half-second or so delay, but I can deal with that. It doesn't have a bar-code on the battery cap.

From the product page: "Petite yet powerful, eGo ONE is the One device for everyone. Adhering to this concept, eGo ONE stands out from different kinds of e-cig products by using two types of changeable atomizer head to cater for different vaping methods: mouth inhale, mouth to lung inhale or direct lung inhale. Also there are two types of battery for you to choose: 1100mah and 2200mah." I guess you would call the tank a clearomizer.

From Joyetech's CLR Head (Rebuildable) product page: "The CLR Atomizer Head is a newly designed atomizer head made for the eGo One. Compared to the traditional eGo One CL atomizer heads, the "R" stands for Reusable, Rewickable and Rebuildable. The CLR features a unique body design, allowing users to conveniently replace the cotton and customize the coil resistance to their preference. Organic cotton is used for wicking material of the CLR, which provides robust flavor output."

Lots of good, pertinent information...if you own one, you should watch this video. Phil gives it an overall thumbs up.