Rixter

Innevape Private Stock Vape My Day?

From GearBest's USA Warehouse: 140 Pieces of Muji Japanese Organic Cotton - $5.05 Nitecore UM10 Intellicharger - $7.85 Insulated Zirconia Ceramics Sharp-nose Tweezers - 2 x $3.90 10m 28g Ni200 - $2.70

Try this thread.

With the sub-Ω craze and all the high-output mods available now, it's about time someone comes up with a safer alternative to lithium batteries.

Uninformed dentist, or at the very least, uneducated in the facts of real-world vaping and buying in to Big Tobacco & Big Pharmaceutical propaganda. Mine said my teeth have never looked better. Same story with every vapor I know. Also, my M.D. said that whatever it is I've been doing lately, keep it up. I want my medical professionals to look at all the facts before regurgitating BT & BP talking points.

No TC? It seems to me that, while really nice, Provaris seem to always be one step behind the rest of the pack on available tech features. I think they are eliminating a lot of potential buyers by not including temp. control. If they did offer it, I'd probably buy one.

At the link I posted previously, it's allowing me to put one in my cart. Are you sure that they're out of stock?

I'm still test driving it, but so far, it's been a great tank. It gurgles for a few minutes after filling it, but the gurgling stops pretty fast once you start vaping with it. I ordered some Ni200 coils that should be here in a couple of days. When they arrive, I plan to swap out the RTA section with a factory coil head and give it to him if it still performs well. I just want to make sure that it's a hassle-free tank before I do.

Your mod's temperature setting is going be based on several variables, but it really just comes down to how warm you like your vapor. Just keep in mind that dry cotton has a flash point of around 420°F, so that's a good place to start. Once your cotton wick has been exposed to e liquid, it usually won't char at higher temperatures (500°F-600°F), even when you accidentally run the tank dry. You'll notice a major decrease in vapor production long before you'll burn your wick.. As far as wattage settings go, there's really not much need to go past 30 watts because your mod's just going to dial your wattage back down once your coil reaches its per-determined temperature setting. At 30 watts and 450°F, my Aspire Triton Tank's coil ramps up quickly and gives me a thick, warm, flavorful vape. On My eGo ONE tank, 400°F is about as high as I want to go. My Kanger Subtank Mini shines at 550°F. Different tanks behave...differently. Hope this helps.

I just bought an Aspire Triton and RBA head to see if it would be a good tank to give to my dad to use on his Heatvape Invader Mini. Since he's never sub-ohmed before, I installed the 1.8Ω coil head into the base and filled it up, and it vapes really well. I'm impressed, and I'm sure he'll love it since it's a top-fill tank. After vaping on it for a while, I decided to put a cotton wrapped vertical nickel coil in the RBA head to use in TC mode, but I don't know if I can swap out the heads while there's still juice in the tank. Has anyone tried swapping heads in a full tank before? I'm going to go ahead and answer my own question for anyone interested. Obviously, you'll need to leave the fill/vape dial in the vape position or your juice will spill out under the drip tip. With the tank upside down, as long as the juice level is below the juice flow holes on the internal stem, you'll have no problems swapping coil heads without having to drain the tank first.

This information seriously highlights the need for good high-amp batteries to power variable wattage mods in combination with sub-Ω tanks. Kudos jasonculp.

Did you get it back together yet?

If I'm not mistaken, those are parts from a Subtank Mini...not a Nano. Their parts are not interchangeable. Could you post one more pic of the Nano's top cap placed upside down or on its side? That way we can see if the air stem is still attached to the top piece and if the top O-ring is still in place.

Here's another pic of the Nano's individual parts.

Other than it's shadow (which seems to support my previous statement), how can you be certain of how tall something is in a two-dimensional pic?

I'm pretty sure that the top piece is shown standing upright on the stem (I don't believe said stem is removable...I could be wrong) and the missing (from view) O-ring may still be inside the top piece. Replacement O-rings are readily available online, though (in a variety of colors).

When unscrewing the base to refill the tank, you need to make sure that you're gripping the airflow control base with one hand and the lower metal tank base (the one that is closest to the bottom of the glass section) with the other hand. Otherwise, you stand the chance of disassembling the tank section (like what happened in your case) as you would if you were cleaning the tank. Hope this helps. It should come apart like this when refilling. Here's the exploded view of the Nano's individual parts. Notice how the Top Piece's stem threads into the Glass Base Piece's bracket to hold the Glass slugly in-between. By the way, make sure to have both (red) gaskets in place or you won't get a good seal and your tank will leak e liquid.

Your question is a little vague. Could you be a little more specific and possibly provide a picture or two of the tank you're having problems with?

Just wondering how you users of the Triton RTA section like it.

I like the Kanger Subtank Mini. I'm using one on a temperature control mod and the replaceable Ni200 (nickel) coils last a long time. YMMV.

LOL

From everything I've read on the subject, using Ni200 on a TC mod set to 600°F or below poses no risk of graphite production, which is probably what concerns you. Prolonged exposure to higher temperatures (between 800° and 1200°F) can cause an extremely small amount of graphite to be produced and subsequently inhaled.

Cotton has a flash point of 420°.