Rixter

Juices can go bad, but it's not likely that's happened in your case. It sounds like you've got a classic case of "Vapers' Tongue" . In lieu of going into a long explanation of what that is, I suggest you click on this link to find out more. I will say that it happens to us all from time to time...especially new vapers.

After about a year of heated debate with my wallet, I finally went for broke today and bought an HH.357 Long Barrel Hybrid 510 2Ω Atomizer from Avid Vaper for $25.31 shipped. My previous favorite drip atty was an EmpireMods Premium Bridge Free LR901 1.5Ω, but sadly (after only 7½ months ), the resistance level recently started dropping, so I figured catastrophic failure was imminent. Now I'll finally get to see why the HH.357 costs $14.50 more than my old atty.

Cool, because I've had no such luck with the standard T3, MT3, or EVOD. It could be that I need to get replacement heads from another vendor because with the ones that I've been getting, I keep getting liquid in my 510 connection at or below ½ a tank.

The AGI...NOT Bucky's!

Here's what I use...notice the Lowest Discharge Voltage & Max. continuous discharge rate: AW IMR 18650 2000mAh (Red) Official specifications: Nominal Voltage : 3.7V Capacity : 2000mAH Lowest Discharge Voltage : 2.50V Standard Charge : CC/CV ( max. charging rate 2A ) Cycle Life : > 500 cycles Max. continuous discharge rate : 10A Operating Discharge Temperature : -10 - 60 Degree Celsius You'll notice low vapor production long before you get to 2.5v, and I'm pretty sure that nobody will disagree with me that AW are some of the most reliable batteries on the planet. I stopped using protected batteries (ICRs) in favor of IMRs because I noticed a substantial difference in performance in side by side comparisons.

Please keep us informed on how they do once your juice level drops below ½ a tank. I've had a lot of trouble with BCCs leaking on me once they get below that level.

I bought a UD (Youde) AGI RBA/RDA today from Bucky's Bargain Vaping for $28.33 (free shipping). I've heard some negative feedback on them, but I figured I'd give it a shot and see for myself.

I'm pretty sure that all the seals on the KPT are silicone...shouldn't be a problem. I'll let you know how it works out. I think I'll stick with cigar puffing for flavor because I don't think I want to inhale something that melts plastic, right?

I'm waiting on some Cinnamon Fireball ("Make It Nuclear" option) from EC Blend to arrive before I try out the KPT that I won in Veteran Vapers VT contest. You gotta have glass to vape it in. From the EC Blend product page warning: DO NOT USE CINNAMON FIREBALL WITH POLYCARBONATE TANKS. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. (Read Review portion below): Posted By: Dungeoner : I've actually melted 3 Vivi Nova tank threads with this juice, and almost completely melted the bottom of an acrylic threaded drip-tip on a Stardust. I didn't know what that odd flavor was when I was vapping till I unscrewed the drip-tip and found that it didn't want to come out too easily. The entire shaft was disfigured & broken down. I actually threw out the Stardust after that. I should note that the Nova tanks lasted a good 3 weeks of constant use before the threads were too far gone. The Stardust drip-tip however, lasted less than a week; perhaps 3-4 days. Although this is by far (in my opinion) the best juice out there, it will tear up your plastic items.

Not saying you won't like the T3...I just know that after having used both kinds in the past, I tended to gravitate towards the easiest one to fill more often than not. I have also noticed that the bottom coil clearos tend to leak a little more than the top coil clearos. That's probably because the wick & coil assembly is always submersed in a BCC. PS - you can always compensate for the lower vape temp by upping the voltage on your PV.

In my opinion, the T3 doesn't provide as much flavor and warmth as the T2 does. This is probably because the T2's coil and wick assembly is at the top of the air path as opposed to the bottom coil placement of the T3. The T2 is also a little easier to fill because all you have to do is unscrew the drip tip. The T3 must be removed from the battery and disassembled to fill.

Pre-punched cartos are designed for use with carto tanks. The holes in the side of those cartos allow the juice from the tank to continually flow into the carto, keeping it saturated. It's basically the same vape as a regular carto without having to keep topping off the carto as much. Think of it like a fuel tank for your carto. Without the tank, a pre-punched carto will leak your juice right out of the holes in the side.

For the initial fill (out of the package), absolutely. It's not only faster than drip filling, it's the most efficient way to get your juice into the bottom of the carto where the coil is. On subsequent fillings, I drip my e-liquid onto the poly-fill (avoiding the center air flu) until it looks saturated.

Actually, this is what your $25 gets you. The included parts eliminate your mod's 510 connection, giving your RBA a more direct connection to the battery, and making your 510 mech mod look and perform more like a hybrid (Battery tube and RBA in a single unit).

Like many vapers out there, I started out using cartos, but as I got more "into" vaping, I started using more advanced delivery systems. I've tried just about everything new that has come down the pike, but continues to be what I go to when I need reliability and simplicity.

From Vape Squad: Review: The Fusions SG-1 Hybrid Kit: "...the Fusions SG-1 is a kit designed to allow the use of a 510-based atomizer on a Sigelei #8, #13 or #19, effectively turning it into a hybrid. We also tried it on our Green Sound Matrix 3, and found it fit that mod as well." Available from Fusion Mods (currently out of stock), the description states: Fusions Mods adapter kit for the Sigelei #8,13,19 Compatible atomizers - RSST, AGA, AGI, Terminator, DID clone, Richman

Does anyone here know where I can buy some of Mad Murdock's Radiator Pluid? I really want to try some, but I've looked all over the interweb and can't seem to find any.

Welcome to the dark side...we have cookies.

I think you'll find that, like all new things you try, taste and performance will get better and better with each new coil you wrap. Practice makes perfect.

I get a 1.7Ω coil with a 5/4 wrap of 32g Kanthal around a 2mm SS wick. Your silica wick may take a few more wraps on the coil because it's probably a little bit smaller in diameter once wrapped than 2mm.

Yeah, since I started doing it this way, I've yet to encounter a single hot spot...once the negative screw in snug, you're good to go.

Yeah...you're gonna want to get Kanthal or Nichrome resistance wire. I like 32 gauge for SS wicks on RBAs, but most folks use Nichrome on silica wicked devices. Since I don't have any experience with silica wicks yet, I can't really steer you in the right direction for the proper gauge of Nichrome resistance wire to use. I'm sure that if you start a post asking that question, you'll get an answer pretty fast, though.

Try screwing it onto a PV first and then twist the cap clockwise and off. I don't own an IGO-W, but I'm pretty sure the cap is held on by two O-rings and not threaded.