Rixter

Need I say more?

Are you spending more than you'd like to on vaping supplies? Do you find yourself hiding new gear or juice from your significant other so they won't know about your "dirty little secret"? Let's hear about it.

Ahem..."Bump Everytime You Buy Something New". I normally wouldn't say anything about getting off topic, but this is a thread that I've got set to alert me "Everytime You Buy Something New", so I keep going to my PC thinking I'm about to see "Something New"...and I'm not getting to see "Something New".

You're using a Zmax, right? If you start using the power option instead of the voltage option (option 7 on your menu), it won't matter what your coils meter out at. Just set your power at 8 watts or less and the Zmax will adjust your voltage according to your juicer's resistance level.

I buy this wire and this wick for rebuilding BCC heads.

I suggest going to YouTube and finding a video on how to rebuild a Kanger Protank coil. I've had nothing but trouble with factory BCC (bottom coil changeable) heads. Eventually (sometimes right away), they either leak juice into the connection area or gurgle. Since I started rebuilding my own heads, I rarely have that problem now, and if I do get a leak on a rebuilt coil, I can just rebuild it again. By the way, I use 32 gauge Kanthal A-1 to make five wraps around a 2mm silica wick (supported with a sewing needle). Then I put another 2mm "flavor" wick on top of the coil (which further fights off leaking). Then I reassemble everything and trim the wicks. Once you watch a couple videos on the subject, you'll have a better understanding of the process. It's really very easy to do.

I've placed five orders with FastTech, and I've been very satisfied with everything I've bought from them. I did have a little trouble with a Cobra clone RBA I got there, but I must admit that it was partly user error and not entirely their fault (one should never use the coil & wick that comes stock on an RBA - always dissect and wash the hardware first, then re-wick & coil with fresh materials). Other than shipping time being longer than I'm used to (over a week, but probably less on the west coast), I've been completely satisfied with them.

I can only vouch for the IMR 18350s working with a Kick in the KTS. That's the only configuration I've personally tried since I don't have any 18490s or 18500s.

Okay. The Kamry Kick Chip is just a protection chip...no power adjustment. Nice research, jeffb. The X8 is a carto tank that uses standard length (35mm) tank cartos...not XL (45mm). You can use the XLs, but they'll stick out of the top of your tank a pretty good bit. If you want to up your vapor production, you'll need to get some low resistance (2Ω) tank cartos for it. I use Boge LR tank cartos in my carto tanks...the best price I've found for what you need to get (Boge 510 LR Stainless Laser Slotted) is here. Your X8 probably came with a 2.5Ω carto, which will put around 5½ watts on your carto's coil at 3.7v. A 2Ω carto will give you close to 7 watts. Just remember this...without a variable power chip (like the Sigelei Kick), your voltage will drop from 4.2v (freshly charged battery) to 3.5v (time to recharge) with use, which in turn will cause your tank's power to decrease as well. If you do get a Kick, you'll more than likely need to get an 18350, 18490, or 18500 IMR battery, because I don't think an 18650 plus a Kick will fit in your mod. X8 Carto Tank

If that's the case, then the culprit is likely the X8's resistance level. Since we apparently aren't able to adjust your mod's power level with the equipment you have, we'll have to reduce your tank's resistance, which will increase the power to your coil. Gimme a few minutes to do a little research and I'll get back with you.

What power is your Kick set at? Just remember that the mod is just a battery holder...the vapor produced is going to be directly dependent on the power setting on your Kick. I have Two KTS+ mech mods and with a Sigelei Kick in them (set to 9 watts), they are fog machines.

Yeah...you're probably right. I still have my first e-cig kit (with the original pre-filled RN-4081 cartos), a NicoTek Metro. lol

Patricia, I've been at this for a year and a half, and I started out just like you...one piece at a time. First it was the e-cigs, then the eGos, then the big battery mods. Almost all of the mods you see in my pics never leave my desk, and I paid a fraction of the cost of high-end mods for most of them, but it is nice to have a different mod for each juice I like. One day I'll cut things down to a couple of really nice hybrids and something to take to work with me, and sell the rest (sure I will ).

Yeah, but we all knew it was coming. Sooner or later, someone would find a way to vape "other things" with one.

No need to extract...now they have these. AGO Rechargeable 650mAh Dry Content Vaporizer

So YOU'RE the reason for the sign.

I like the part about no water pipes or hookahs. lol You reckon they've had problems in the past with stoners walkin' around smokin' the dank in a bong before?

You noticed that, too, eh? lol

In today's vape mail: ...to match my V3 mech mod. Now I just have to wait 'til the tarnish catches up.

You should always be very careful when threading your delivery devices onto any mod, cheap or expensive. Using an adapter as opposed to the native connection is always a good idea if you change out juicers a lot. BTW, for 4.68 more, you can get the M16 (clone) in brass instead of aluminum.

That's a J-Wrap. Very cool.

Sadly, no...there are others around the house, but the ones pictured are the ones that get used regularly. In my defense, I can tell you that I've been pretty thrifty with my purchases...I've seen hybrids that cost as much as half of my entire collection.

Vapor Rater has reviews for tons of different juices, and the reviews usually recommend a power setting for each juice.

PWM (pulse width modulation). Makes some DDs sound like a rattlesnake...especially cartos.

I like my V3 a lot for use at work because it's solid brass, so the finish won't scratch as easily as chrome-plate or SS. Brass is also an excellent conductor of electricity. It costs a few bucks more, but it's still under $20 shipped. The V3 is built like a tank, too. You could probably run over it with your car and wouldn't damage it. lol