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Everything posted by Rixter
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My moneys gone and I have nothing to show for it!
Rixter replied to Patricia's topic in General Vaping Discussion
You are correct, sir. Panasonic Looks to China for Lithium-Ion Battery Manufacturing -
My moneys gone and I have nothing to show for it!
Rixter replied to Patricia's topic in General Vaping Discussion
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I just rolled a 5/4 for the missus' EVOD. It metered a little high dry (2.8Ω), but after filling the tank and firing it a couple of times, it's now reading a consistent 2.2Ω on the ZMAX. I'd say a 5/4 of 32g Kanthal A-1 around a 3.5mm silica wick (with sewing needle support) should be a good starting point for you to get 2.2Ω. Based on these results, I'd say that each additional wrap will add ±.4Ω to the total resistance of the coil.
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Another good choice is the Sigelei ZMAX. I've owned one since Christmas and can attest to it's durability.
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All of mine are either in use or already rebuilt, but the next time I do some up, I'll try 5/4 & 6/5 to see what that meters out to be. Dragongunner said earlier that he is getting a consistent 1.5Ω from his 4/3, and I get a consistent 1.8Ω from mine, so YMMV based on technique and (possibly) climate or altitude. I've found that once you figure out the number of wraps that works for you, it's pretty consistent from one build to the next.
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LOL I was in no way referring to anybody here at VT being not-man-enough to vape on a machine-gun mod...just girly-men in general. LOL They're he-uh to pomp...you op!
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Yeah, but e-cigs don't stick to your skin as well as patches do, so there's that.
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How 'bout I buy one, abuse it for a while, and then let you know how it works out for me? I'll tell myself that I'm doing it for the good of vapers everywhere. *EDIT* As far as the weight and bulkiness, this thing was designed to look like the M134 machine gun... ..it's probably not the best choice for a girly-man. LOL
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If you're experiencing a stiff draw, it's probably because the wick and coil is sitting a little too high in the housing and blocking off the air flow through the top stem. You might try removing the needle before inserting the bottom grommet & pin so you can pull the coil a little further down into the housing. Like I said before, there's some trial & error involved with rebuilding, but you'll figure out what works best for you after doing it a few times. What diameter silica wick did you use? *EDIT* Take care when inserting the bottom grommet & center pin not to push the wick & coil too high in the housing. Bending the leads to the side should prevent this from happening, but if it does happen, you should be able to pull the coil wire that's still sticking out around the grommet and/or center pin to lower the coil back down before breaking off the leads.
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I don't know how much you paid for your Vamo, but the Innokin iTaste 134 is $140 shipped from Vapor Kings. If I was going to buy another VW mod, this is what I'd get.
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Does this mean I'm famous now?
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Rebuilding/rewicking coils and what to use
Rixter replied to Tam's topic in General Vaping Discussion
As you go down in wire diameter (up in gauge), your 4/3 coil is going to increase in resistance. Conversely, as you go up in wire diameter (down in gauge), that same 4/3 coil is going to decrease in resistance. Think of it like a water hose...more water can flow through a big hose than a small one because a big hose offers less resistance (more flow). So yes, my 32g 4/3 1.8Ω coil will grow in resistance if I switch to, say, 34g. Personally, I wouldn't use wire any smaller than 34g because it'll be more apt to burn in two. I prefer 32g over 34g because 34g pops too easily for my taste. *EDIT* Also remember that my 4/3 is wrapped around a 3.5mm wick. If you use smaller wick, then those wraps are going to be smaller, too, which will further reduce the resistance of the coil. There really is a lot of trial & error to figuring out what works for you, but after you meter a few of your first attempts, you'll get a pretty good idea of what's going on. For KPTs, EVODs, & the like, I suggest going with 3.5mm wick and 32g Kanthal and see how it works out for you, and then adjust accordingly. -
My moneys gone and I have nothing to show for it!
Rixter replied to Patricia's topic in General Vaping Discussion
So that's why my latest FastTech order is taking so long to get here. I had four Li-ion batteries in my latest order because those damn greedy Americans want too much for theirs. Wait, what? There are no American made Li-ion e-cig batteries? They all come from China? Okay...that's why I ordered directly from China then. -
Rebuilding/rewicking coils and what to use
Rixter replied to Tam's topic in General Vaping Discussion
Kanthal Wire 36 Gauge RW0189 - 100 FT 0.07oz Series A-1 Resistance AWG Diameter: The thinner the wire (higher gauge number), the higher the resistance per foot. The thicker the wire (lower gauge number), the lower the resistance. -
Same here.
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Once you get all the gear that you need (or want), the cost of vaping drops to around $10 to $20 a week... maybe a little more if you like to vape top shelf juices. I haven't actually gotten to that point yet, but I'll let you know when I do. lol
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They like me...they really like me!
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For an 8 watt vape with a 1.8Ω coil, set your Twist at 3.8v.
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No need for a flavor wick if you use 3.5mm silica wick..I get mine here. You can get 100' of Kanthal A-1 32g resistance wire for under $5 here. No. You can use Norwegian nail clippers if you like. Thanks!
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Here's a hastily compiled tutorial (with pictures) to show you how to rebuild the heads for KPTs, EVODs, and various other BCC (bottom coil changeable) tanks. In this tutorial, I will be making a 4/3 wrap of 32g Kanthal A-1 around a 3.5mm silica wick to achieve a 1.8Ω coil. Break everything down to this point (just start pullin' stuff apart...you'll figure it out ). Coil some Kanthal around a silica wick using a sewing needle as a support. Place both leads through the housing until the wick and needle are as shown. Bend one lead to the side, thread the bottom grommet onto the other lead, and slip it into the bottom of the housing. Bend the other lead (the one you just threaded through the grommet) to the side and slide the bottom pin into the grommet. Bend the excess leads of Kanthal back and forth (really fast) until they break off flush with the head. Remove the needle. Replace the top stem. Trim off the excess silica (I use Chinese nail clippers). Replace the cup seal. All you have to do now is install your freshly rebuilt head into your BCC tank's base and vape on! Hope this was helpful...it works for me. Oh, yeah...I almost forgot...always check your new rebuilds with a meter before using it!!!
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Yeah, each additional wrap will add just a little more resistance...trial and error is all I can say about that. You can wrap as close as you'd like as long as the wraps aren't touching each other. They work a heck of a lot better than they do coming out of the box, too. By the way, I just got finished taking some step by step pictures of the entire rebouilding process from start to finish, so I'll be posting a pictorial tutorial shortly. I'll provide a link in this thread when I've finished it.