Rixter

Now that you've used it for a while, how's it holding up?

I ordered a black Vision Spinner 2 1600mAh battery yesterday evening.

I'm also in the 20-25ml a week range.

Just keep in mind that the more you twist, the more wire you're adding to a given length. It's a balancing act between the reduced resistance of the added strand and the increased resistance of the added length due to the twist.

Good job Tam! It's been a lot of fun having you along for the ride.

I started getting into RBAs right about the time that dual coil BCC tanks began to appear, so I sort of missed the boat on rebuilding those. *UPDATE* Do a Google Search for "how to rebuild a BDC". I think you'll find the info you're looking for (if nobody here knows how).

I just bought an Efest IMR 18650 35amp 2500mah Flat Top Battery to compare to my AW IMR 18650 24amp 1600mAh Button Top Battery.

Just received a Pyrex 510 drip tip from Smok Tech with stainless steel base ($4.69), an AW IMR 18650 Li-MN 3.7v 1600mAh 24A Button Top Battery ($8.99), and a 250ml bottle of PG ($10.95).

Very nice...good job.

Red solo cup, I fill you up Let's have a party, let's have a party I love you red solo cup, I lift you up, Proceed to party, proceed to party

The Pluid has arrived...ready...begin.

Man, that's love right there!

Having tried in vain to quit smoking with patches and gum, I really can't imagine how any product that doesn't mimic the act of smoking could be very successful.

After a little thought on the matter, I decided to take a look at the manual. From the iTaste VV V3.0 User Manual: "Never use your iTaste VV without an atomizer, cartomizer or clearomizer. Connecting to a volt meter without the load required for high voltages can damage the device." While pressing the fire button without a atty, carto, or clearo attached shouldn't be a problem, "connecting to a volt meter without the load required for high voltages" might have some effect on the iTaste's circuitry. The only reason I can think of for this would be because variable wattage devices determine their voltage levels based on the detected resistance of the load, and connecting an unloaded volt meter may "confuse" the circuitry.

No load (clearo) = no energy spent...no harm done. The only energy used without a load is whatever it takes to power the fire button light.

Got me some Pluid.

It's a single 6/5 spaced coil of 29g Kanthal around 3.5mm silica, and it's about 1Ω. That's roughly 17½ watts and a little over 4 amps on a freshly charged battery, and the AW IMR 18350s I use in it are rated at 6a.

At just under 4" tall (including tip) and providing outstanding vapor production, this setup goes to work with me daily. It rides perfectly in the change pocket of my Levis with enough room to spare for a 10ml bottle of juice.

Yeah...I think it's just the right amount of each. Any more brass/gold might be too much.

In all seriousness, that really is a beautiful combo. Good eye.

Sorry...I just had to.

Thank you, sirs.

Okay...here's what I have so far: From left to right: SmokTech "The Natural" w/ UD AGA-T2 SmokTech Magneto w/ UD AGA-T3 KTS+ w/ UD AGI KTS+ w/ UD AGT Rainbow Heaven Hybrid Elite Grand Vapor Sentinel V3 w/ UD IGO-W Telescope Rocket w/ UD AGA-S Grand Vapor Private V2 w/ UD IGO-L

Here's another little Magneto switch trick to try if a known good battery won't fire: Remove the battery to relieve tension on the switch section. Unscrew the switch assembly from the bottom of the mod. Turn the slotted switch section inside the mod counter-clockwise ¼ to ½ turn . Re-attach the switch section. This should help your switch to make better contact.

Here's a new BCC tank from their home page banner that I missed .