Rixter

Yep. Still vaping.

You mean I can't put my smart phone in the dishwasher? Bummer.

This post was one of the first posts (if not THE first post) I responded to when I first started vaping exclusively. I still don't know if making the switch to vaping was the culprit, but the eye twitch eventually went away and I haven't had that problem since, so there's that. Vape on.

Nobody here knows how to scroll DNA75C profiles on the fly?

"Cigarette smoking is responsible for more than 480,000 deaths per year in the United States, including more than 41,000 deaths resulting from secondhand smoke exposure. This is about one in five deaths annually, or 1,300 deaths every day. On average, smokers die 10 years earlier than nonsmokers." https://www.cdc.gov/tobacco/data_statistics/fact_sheets/fast_facts/index.htm I like my odds...I think I'll keep vaping.

Does anyone know how to switch between the presets on a mod with a DNA75C board? My wife has a Lost Vape Mirage and a couple of tanks she rotates between, and I've looked everywhere online for info on how to switch between her Escribe created presets with no success. Everything I've found pertains to older, non-color versions of DNA boards, which doesn't work for the C.

There's simply no better RDA on the market. The Profile is miles above anything else out there. Best flavor, vapor production, ease of use, ramp up time, etc. I'm a huge fan of the Goon v1, but the Profile makes the Goon seem anemic. BTW - OFRF nexMESH strips make the Profile even better.

...still vaping.

I'm not sure about the others you listed, but the original Goon beats all other RDAs that I've tried for flavor and build ease. I've heard that other versions of the Goon (v1.5, LP) have issues, but the Goon v1 performs flawlessly for me. Since 528 Custom Vapes doesn't offer a BF (squonk) pin for the original Goon, you can pick one up here.

Absolutely. There's a ton of battery bogus-ness (re-wraps, outright lies on specs, etc.) going on these days in the name of the almighty dollar. It's a lot to stay on top of.

Walt, did we go to the same mech mod class? lol

Fully charged LI-ION batteries are 4.2 volts. Nominal voltage is usually listed on various batteries at 3.6-3.7v, but when it comes off the charger, it's 4.2v. It drops with use, and you should stop using it before it drains below it's safe-discharge limit. Each battery has it's own set of specs, so you can google how low your particular battery can go before charging. I usually recharge mine when they get to about 3.2v. You'll experience a cooler vape as the voltage drops, so with some experience, you'll learn when to change out batteries based on the vape you're getting. Until then, change out early.

Do a little Googling and you'll find that nobody recommends using anything other than mated sets of batteries in a multi-battery mod...all bought at the same time and charged together as a set...every time.

We'll need to know a little more about your setup to give you an accurate answer, but In a mech mod, the lowest resistance load you can safely go with on a fully charged battery (4.2v) and stay under your battery's 20 amp limit is .21Ω, which will yield 84 watts. Voltage / Resistance = Current (amps)..........Voltage² / Resistance = Power (watts) Remember, your resistance can/will change do to a variety of reasons, so it's imperative that you keep a close eye on your coil's resistance fluctuations, especially if you are setting it up to run at your battery's safety threshold.

Man. Why did I just watch that video? I will never un-see that. Man.

Good question. If you drop in two of your .4Ω coils, you can double the power from 27w to 54w and retain roughly the same temperature vape but with (again, roughly) twice the quantity of visible vapor, and hopefully twice the flavor, too. Now pop on a 12-coil setup (yep...they have 'em) and you can take things upwards of 300w easily. same rough temp with about 12 times the vapor (...and flavor ).

Nothing fancy...just a single ribbon-core Clapton metering .43Ω in my Goon RDA.

Okay...I'm starting to get the feeling that this post is a ploy to get a rise out of some folks in the know about such things as DEADLY POISONOUS LEVELS OF NICOTINE!!! I don't even know the proper procedure for disposal of something so deadly, but you need to find out, and then you need to do it. IMO, anyone asking questions like you did obviously doesn't know the math necessary to DIY safely, and owes it to anyone who might enter a room in your house where you've broken the seal on pure nicotine to get rid of it promptly and properly before somebody dies.

Can anyone recommend a good sub-Ω tank that's made here in the U.S.? I've run across some pretty nice homegrown mods (with some foreign components), but I can't seem to find any American sub-Ω tanks.

Yeah, based on some of the internet chatter I've come across, it's most likely Kanthal...but I've still not found anything official on it. I use my TFV8 on a HΩ Wrecker G2, which does TC Kanthal well, but I'd like to be able to TC it on some of my other mods, too.

Do any of you Smok Beast Tank users happen to know what type of resistance wire (Kanthal, SS, Ti, etc.) is being used in the V8T8 coil heads? It would be nice if Smok were to print that information on their boxes for the benefit of the TC crowd, but they don't.

Does "battery" mean a loose 18650 or the likes, or does it mean a mod of some sort? *EDIT* Never mind...I just watched the video.

Has anyone tried rebuilding the V8-Q4 with a smaller ID vertical coil (say, 1-1.5mm) and a nice fat cotton wrap? It's the only coil head out of the available three that looks easily rebuildable, and it might just convert the TFV8 into a decent MTL tank. Just a thought.

You've come to the right place. There's plenty of information here from lots of vapers that have tried just about everything out there. Congrats on making the switch.

First, I like the internal spiral fin design which not only spirals your vapor into your mouth for smoother airflow but also blocks spit-back from devices that are prone to do that. Second, it's minimalistic in design...looks like a smooth cylinder on top of your tank. They're strictly MTL, though. There's a little bit too much restriction for the DLers IMO.