Compenstine

I like the looks of that. Wonder when it will be available...?

On Fast Tech the Chi-you clone is $27.00 that is big difference from $138 they show. That is $111.00 mark up

Switch Assembly Upgrade This is the Original switch assembled. Break down of Original switch This is an attempt to show the play in the original switch This how far out I had to twist it to get a connection to fire This is a break down of the parts added to the switch upgrade. Larger and stiffer main spring, thumb screw to raise contact used rubber insulator from 510 batt post to hold thumb screw in place, small spring on fire button to tighten play. Upgrade Assembled Fire position after upgrading the switch I can now even stand it on end without it firing or falling over

LMAO Nice!

I'm always looking for a better Juice calculator and had happened across this. It didn't quite suit my needs, though, I did like the set up, I decided to email them about some of my thoughts to make this more useful for my needs. Apparently, my email had ended up in their bulk mail and they didn't see it before this release. Only a short time ago, I received a reply from them apologizing for this mix up and a link to a beta version 3.3 adding my suggestions for changes for testing. Wow, I'm impressed to say the least. I shows me they care about user input. Kudos to Smart Vape LIQMix for a job well done and helping DIYer's possessive manner.

I still use my manual 112 batts with my new IClear 16s duelies, quite the combo I only dripped with the 112 atty I used the cart with the poly fill on the 510 and 901s... I always had a paperclip and napkin handy LOL It wasn't to blow my noise but sure sounded like it... Gad I remember the tea bag thing lol made a better tea filter than a wick LMAO. I went to Hobby Lobby and had bought a hug bag of poly i still have a huge bag somewhere.I have 3 new 112 attys left in my supplies... err more like my E-Cig museum hahaha, I'm sure they will be there a while.

I hear yeah, I would rather spend money on a new toy over fluid.

Thanks, I do have to give some credit to my Dad, rest his soul. When he was with us he taught me a lot about electronics and being a McGyver. LOL It was his nick name where he worked. He was an electroics enginer all his life. Has one pattend to his credit.

LOL Oh how I remember. And yes I still have them as well even some manual 401s and 901s. My most liked combo was a 112 manual batt with a 901 atty. I even have many of the adaters. If I wanted a good hit off a 112 atty I would drip and stove pipe it... ahhh those were the days. LOL

I can do that. I didn't reman the switch so much as I added what it needed to tighten it up and make better contact. I will throw a quick pictorial up in this thread in the next couple days. I may be able to give you some advice on yours and what can be done to make it better. Some pics of what your looks like and what you want will help me with that.

It's just me but I always test my coil builds with a mutimeter before screwing them on my unit. I'm just overly cautious that way.

I hear yea, but, when it is a matter of saving over 50% on the bulk items that i don't need asap, I'm not against waiting a couple three weeks. I am ordering the 2 I want now from a US company that probly gets their stock from China anyway. Igo-L is $12.85 from US company + $5.00 SH from fast tech 5 or more $6.00ea out the door free shipping. What I won't buy is E-Liquid, Flavoring, or Base from China. Now if it is made in the US and I see a clone from China... I would by the US version every time.

Thanks everyone. I had fun doing it. gave my gray matter a good workout. LOL

Wish I would have known that a few hours ago LOL Dag nab it i can't add to my order. LOL Ohhh maybe not, bad reviews, I think i'll save my pennies and look at getting an orignal.

Thanks IMEDICx90 I have been looking at the Trident after pdoan2006 mentioned it as well, not priced to bad. I found a 24k Gold plated one for $16.85. It's only a few dollors more than the IGO-L at $12.95. I like looks of the Nimbus, little pricey, but not unexpected. I would get one more for an everyday take with me RDA.

Tutorial is done posted it in the Mod section

This was brought up in another thread, moding out a multimeter for testing atomizers. I had bought a Radio Shack Model: 22-182 Multimeter just for building coils and testing other E-cig needs. I promised a tutorial of what I did when I was done, well, here it is. I started with a stock Radio Shack Model: 22-182 Multimeter This Multimeter comes in its own case and is mounted with 2 screws into the case for changing the battery. I wanted to use the case it came in as it was very compact and is easy to store. After some thought I decided to make a panel that would fit into where the test leads were stored. This would allow me to close the case lid and keep it all in one neat package. I found an old 5.25 black bay cover for a PC to make the panel. I used connectors I salvaged from dead 510 and 901 batteries and atomizes also some used wire from a old PC LED. I wanted a tight fit for the panel so I made a template of the test lead storage plate from a piece of semi ridged clear plastic. Laying the plastic over the multimeter I traced out the shape I needed for my panel with a Sharpie. After cutting the template out, I traced it onto the 5.25 bay cover. I placed the template in the upper right corner of the bay cover. This would allow the downed edge to act as a stop and a support for the panel once in place. Using a Dremel I cut out the basic shape, leaving room to adjust it's shape to fit tight in the test lead storage area of the Multimeter. I used the Dremel with a sanding cylinder to shape it for clean fit. I used a 5/16th in drill bit to make the holes where the new leads would be mounted. This bit was a tad smaller than the atty and batt but, I wanted a tight fit. The 3/8ths bit was just a hair to large. I then took my Dremel and a small sanding cylinder to make the holes just the right size for them to fit nice an snug. Note the holes are a little off I made a line to follow but the center punch moved a bit on the second hole from the top. Ooops lol After that was all done and ready to go, I soldered the all the leads together. I did this before installing them into the panel so I wouldn't risk melting the plastic panel. Once soldered and mounted them into the panel. I did a test on all the new leads to make sure all had a good connection and they all worked. I did this by taking a base reading on 1 atty. Then using it with an adapter to test both the 510 and 901 atty leads. I then used 1 batt and did the same with the 510 and 901 batt leads. After it all tested a go, I then used 5min epoxy to glue the leads in place. I also added some to the wires so they would move and possibly break the solder joint. I want to be able to remove the panel when I want so the wires had to be secured. Once the epoxy had set, I retested the leads just to make sure all the leads were still working. It was at this time that I cut the original leads from the multimeter making sure I left a little extra in case of a redo. I then soldered them to the leads of the panel. To protect the connection I used some shrink tubing on these connections. Now it is time to pop in the panel and test it again. It all tested good so there it is, a custom 510, 901 Atty and Batt tester. The space at the top allows me to add 4-5 adapters for testing other size attys, Batts or extending the lead up to test tanks that are to big around to fit directly on the 510 lead. I Love DIY!

Thanks for the input 3Rutez I have seen a lot of good reviews for the IGO-L and W. Of course the Nimbus as well. If I decide i like dripping better than my tank I may just grab one if see it on sale. I become good at building coils so I'm not afraid of the IGO-W being a dual coil. I want to do some mini coils too just because.

I have the same issue with my Drunk Tanks on the SID mod with my tobacco juice only. I don't have any issues with my KPT, KPT2 or the Iclear16s I use or other juices. It did not mater what voltage or wattage even at it's lowest settings. I even swapped out coils, same thing... I would say try a different juice in a new cart and see if the same burning taste returns. I normally run at 4.5 volts, 7.0 watts

Thanks for the input pdoan2006 Being that it will be used primarily for taste testing I won't need cotton in the atomizer to hold juice. When you taste test you only need a few drops 2-3 to get the flavor. If the flavor is not right you add more flavor to your test batch and try again. Having cotton in it, you would need to saturate the cotton so it don't burn.This would throw off the amounts in the small test batch mix to a point of ending up with a unreliable and a unrepeatable recipe. If I were to use it for my main atomizer then yes I would agree, cotton would be the way to go. There will be times I do want just that (cotton) to test the flavor once I have it down. This would allow me to see if it would be good over time. This is why I would want a few attys so I could test it as dripper would taste it and not just as a tank user.

Thanks CE If it wasn't for the quick flavor cleaning of the ss mesh I wouldn't worry about the wick type at all. But for the price of Igo's I would go with 3 or 4 of them if they would work well for flavor testing... So you are saying it would be possible to do a mesh on the IGO L? I'm not set on these models either I would put out the cash if suits my needs but why spend $65 if it don't need to.

I just noticed this poll LOL sorry... Best answer: Over Time Yes 5ml cost around $0.10-$1.50 Depending on how much flavoring gets used 10ml cost around $0.20-$2.50 Depending on how much flavoring gets used 30ml cost around $2.00-$4.00 Depending on how much flavoring gets used 50ml cost around $5.00-$8.00 Depending on how much flavoring gets used Flavoring and Nic are the biggest expense in DIY Wizard Labs has the best price on NIC and 8ml bottles of flavoring Good Plastic mixing bottles run about $0.79 50ml, $0.99 150ml, $1.29, 250ml (Hobbie Lobby) Plastic Drip Bottles range from $0.30-$0.50 (Bulk is less) (I use Glass mostly) Savings will very if you get stuff on sale when you can. Suggested Start-up items: Glass Beakers Volumetric Flasks Droppers Pipettes Syringes Rubber/Latex gloves

Posted this another thread but it got buried... ATM I use the old school 401s for my flavor testing and have 1 atty for each flavor. Now that I'm running low on them and find the flavor is definitely sub par to a RBA SS mesh wick tank, I'm looking for a good RDA that I can use a SS mesh wick. Looking at: Smokteck 510 RDA (not showing wick type) IGO-L 510 RDA (shows Fiberglass or Silica Rope wick type) IGO-W RDA (shows Fiberglass, Silica Rope or SS Mesh wick type) Phoenix V2 RDA (not showing wick type) The IGO-L or IGO-W is what I'm leanig toward but, I'm just not knowlagable enough in RDAs to make up my mind. I don't want a replaceable atomizer/cartomizer as I'm moving away from any thing I can't grab some wire, wick and rebiuld it. I'm finding that the SS mesh don't hold the previous flavor of juice like silica and cotton wick can so, mesh is a must. Any advice from you long time drippers would be a great help, Cost is not so much an issue for this?

I would suggest looking at the threads with a magnifing glass and see if they have been cross threaded. What you will see is metal shavings or threads that are not uniform like two sets of threads. Other than that I can't think of what may cause it except dirt or somthing it the threading.

If your old flavor is not a mint, Vodka works really well but can take up to 24 or longer. hot water same... The fastest way I have found is to use tasteless fluid to flush it out. Drip 3-4 drops onto the atty let it sit for a minute or so. Then blow it out. Repeat this a couple times. Them drop 3-4 drops in the atty and vape a few times... Blow it out.. repeat 2-3 times till you dont get any flavor when you vape. once done do 1 final blow and fill with new flavor. This can work with mint as well just takes a afew more flushes.