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Walt is right on. I can just tell you what I do. I stick with Clapton's or fused Clapton's. I build to .28 to .35. I use a ohm meter to build on like the coil master 521 and if not sure I will check the build on a regulated mod to be sure. I will be hunting for a dead rabbit on Black Friday. What I do works for me on a series mod. Duel coil. As long as you hit the right ohms you will be ok. More ohms is better till you learn. Have fun

Wow, nothing like jumpin right in there head first! .25Ω is probably pretty close to what you will need. I don't know what all you've done in regard to building and mechs so I don't know where to start. I don't want to jot down a lot of rhetoric you already know. .25Ω on a dual coils makes each coil .5Ω. A single battery delivering the full 4.2V will deliver 8.2 amps to each coil or in other words, each coil will dissipate a little over 34 watts. That's not too bad of a match up as long as you don't go too insane with the coil i.e. too exotic and bulky. There are those who would say you are on the line pulling over 16A from that battery, but I personally don't see a problem with it. Just use common sense and keep track of how warm the battery gets. You don't need to be afraid of the things, just check and double check your resistance with the atty fully assembled. Keep the mod clean. If the mod starts heating up anywhere, inspect that area of the mod for dirt, carbon build up etc. That heat will be pointing out a high resistance joint. My favorite flavor builds remain to be a two core parallel Clapton. I was surprised to see a recent youtube video that confirms that build per "wind tunnel" tests. The air really hugs that configuration of coil if it is hitting the coil from the side. Contrary to popular practice, the video indicates a direct hit on the coil rather than underneath. Obviously nothing beats just trying different things on a particular atty. Hope this gives you confidence. I really sense you have the situation in hand.