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I love dobermans... I use to breed them back in the stone-age, lol... I've not had one in about a decade (actually my daughter's dog), and I really miss the cuddly land-sharks Your girl is adorable, and I hope you get the boy so they can have a friend to play with... I have Great Dane's now... and my female is pregnant... so I'll have a house full of them around the first of April. I'm not sure if I'm excited or terrified, lol

Thanks @Edna I would feel embarrassed but I'm too old for that, lol. This is not my first experience with operator headspace. I usually don't trip over mountains, it' usually a crack in the sidewalk. I really like the concept of temp control. I'm hoping I can find a mod/atomizer that will do it well. I can imagine a quick ramp up and a consistent temperature vape. I'm getting better breathing abilities the longer I go without analogs. I'm finding I draw often between 7 and 8 seconds. That's a lot of time for temp ramp on wattage mode. That's not to say vaping in wattage mode isn't a pleasure, it is. Of course maybe temp control will never live up to my expectations, but I love experimenting.

A Vaping Noobs Brife Uninformed Review of Two Awesome Tanks: Uwell Crown 2 & Sense Herakles Plus To get things started I will give you a brief run down on my vaping history. About a year ago I decided to give vaping a go in an effort to quit/reduce my cigarette habit. The first 3 or four months I used Kanger E-Smart kit, which, I will say having tried other products in its class is a good product but I think has been discontinued. Unsatisfied with the low yield of the little E-Smart 510 rig I looked into stepping up into something better but not sure if I wanted to dive into the deep end (or spend much money). That landed me with a Nautilus mini tank and a VAMO V4 or V5 (cant remember) VV/VW mod. Big improvement. Everything about it, the adjustability, flavor and clouds (relative VAMO only goes to 12/15 watts). A few months later I decided I was going to do it right and get a state of the art (for those 10min) but still not too pricy, set-up, so I got a Kanger Sub Top Tank. Obviously it goes without saying that the extra power brought things to a whole new level. Finally, a contraption that could satisfy my rather heavy smoking habit. However I felt it lacked in one major area, flavor. I tried all the different coils (except the RBA set which I am yet to try my hand at). I knew what seriously good flavor was like from the Nautilus, but I found that the TopTank only with the Clapton coils came into the acceptable realm of what the flavor should be like. After dropping it, replacing the glass, which I still cant get to stop leaking I decided to try out the current highly reviewed tanks. So a little over a week ago I placed an order with DIRECTVAPOR for a Sense Herakles Plus and a Uwell Crown 2. I can saw without question that these two products have delivered far beyond expectations. Uwell Crown 2: Built like a tank . I mean this thing is solid. Like the Herakles It came with two atomizers and an extra glass. I found it Vaping really well in the 50 watt area with my favorite juice, Beard 32. The airflow had nice tactile clicks when you open/close it. Simple, well made, delivers great flavor and plenty of vapor. Sense Herakles Plus: Once I got this things humming all I can say is wow. It can really output some serious flavor and huge clouds. This tank has three points of adjustment. A bottom airflow, top air flow, and juice flow restrictor. Now I am not %100 sure what the top airflow does, the bottom airflow seems to work as it does on the other tanks I own so I normally leave it opened all the way and adjust the bottom. Now here is the kicker, this thing drinks juice at an unbelievable rate. On top of that, it destroys the battery in my K-Box. The tank was certainly designed for a more powerful mod set-up. To sum things up, both these products are great. The Herakles however, if you have the hardware to handle it and don't mind buying juice by the gallon takes the cake. It should be noted that the Crown 2, when comparing its efficiency to the Herakles is an outstanding performer with really not that many concessions. I hope that some of you found this write up informative. I am obviously not very interested in the technical aspects of vaping but from a practical standpoint I hope to have provided some insight.

I was ready for a change,so I got in the bathroom and did it!I don't trust beauty shops,they always screw my hair up no matter where I go,so I just got out my shears and got it how I wanted it!

Got a pack of the T10 coils for my CloudBeast tanks from my local shop.. so far I'm impressed, [emoji4] Rated up to a whopping 300w the cloud blown here almost blocks out my 55" TV at 150w..Just when I thought the T8 was the cats' meow here comes the T10..And I've heard Smok has the TFV12 CloudBeast King tank that uses the newer V12 coils out now, but sites l've visited are sold out and not currently in stock...now this may not be news to some of you but it was to me when I made a run to my local shop for wire (RTA-2, Griffin).. Will probly get this latest Beast when it is available.. [emoji4] Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

I vape at the same wattage on the CB and at about 75 on the BB. Go figure. Maybe something while cleaning them? Honestly, I'm at a loss as to why they would warp (absent exposure to extremely high heat from the tanks).

The ohm meter is more than likely more accurate than the mod.

Are you referring to these?

I have been building for over a year. I just got a new RDA the other day, just for the fact that it had 3 post and not 4. I normally buy them build till I get bored with it then sell it to get a new one. I have just been trying to cut down on it cause wire is super hard to find in the sizes I want and I hate waiting for the mail. I have only had my Alien for 3 weeks and I am already looking to sale it. Today I have built to past the time but I got frustrated cause I want a .5 and it reads .5 on the ohlm reader but when I put on my mod its .4... Sent from my SC-1010JBBT using The Vapor Talk mobile app

I did it again, used a OCC coil that I rebuilt with kanthal for a Subvod, subvods use a subtank nano. I put the nano on a 75w Kanger TC mod, switched to CR mode set the .78 coil, and set the temp down to 200F, got no vape, slowly raised the temp, and settled on 270F. Watched the watts while pressing the fire button, and after the initial surge the watts hovered around 13 watts, I normally run that coil around 15 watts when in power mode, so I guess Kanthal does work in NC mode. I normally run my juice between 360F and 380F so I had to drop the temp about 100F.

Since I consider myself semi-retired from my machine shop I operated since 1994 I don't take on any new customers, but still work with my old customers on a limited basis. I should sell my machinery and fully retire, but than I would get very bored. At least it gets me out of the house. My shop is on my property so its not like I have to drive anyplace, and all it costs me is electricity, and tooling if I break any.

In theory, yes. The early TC mods that have basic settings for Ni, Ti, SS are essentially just changing the TCR to match those wire types. With newer TC mods that have TCR and/or TFR settings you should be able to set the dial in the TCR value to match the value of kanthal and get close results. The problem is the lower the TCR value, the less accurate the results are going to be. It just isn't something I'm willing to toy around with, though. I'm allergic to blowing myself up.

The Kanger TC mods that have a NiCr setting will work with Kanthal, I have tried it a couple of times. I used the NiCr mode and used a much lower temp setting than I normally would. Not something I would do on a daily basis, but I just had to try it.

I'm loving my Hohm Slice mod since it does TC with kanthal. The majority of my drop in coils are kanthal because other coils aren't available for the tanks I prefer to use and that's definitely a nice bonus. I have switched to primarily SS for my handmade coils because they can be vaped either way. I think there is another company besides Hohm Tech that is making a TC device that fires kanthal in TC now, but it was an obscure manufacturer. I also heard a rumor (literally heard, didn't read) that Evlov is working on a DNA chip that will fire kanthal. If that happens, I'll truly be in heaven.

For what it's worth, MSRP on the TFV12 according to SMOK's website is going to be $59.99. The MSRP for the TFV8 Cloud Beast is $54.99. Considering there are plenty of places where a Cloud Beast can be had for about $30 online I expect to be able to find the TFV12 for around $35-$40 online. The price will likely be closer to $40 for a bit and will start to drop to around $35 after the initial "ooooohh" and "aaahhhh" period.

Call me crazy, but, There's nothing like a long slow draw. In itself it is a very relaxing experience. Couple that with a great tasting vape and I have Nirvana!

The beautiful thing about TC - hit the desired temp and the chip will adjust the wattage as necessary to maintain the temp. I could never take a 7-8 second hit in wattage mode. It will continue to get hotter. The consistent temps help with longer draws and that's just one of the reasons I love TC.

Lots of great videos on Youtube and lost of willing to help folks here when you're ready, so don't be shy. Ask any questions you have and we shall answer.

We try to help around here...It's funny how people find this forum like you did with a problem of one type or another then they wind up sticking around. (I did it too) This is probably the nicest group on any forum I've ever found. If you have questions just holler and welcome to VaporTalk!

@Adversarious1 LOL!! I wouldn't blame anyone but myself. If it's not my thing, I have a few friends serving overseas that might like it or you might just get a slightly used but well cleaned back up to your backups in the mail

I can't legally sell the juice I make, but I can take donations to help offset my cost, I can't help the donations I get are more than I invest.

@FXRich is right on mixing your own... you spend a few bucks getting started, but you save in the long run! Just tonight, I mixed 600ml of juices for me, and another 300ml of juice for my fiance'... and I doubt I have $10-11 in the entire 900ml? Nicotine is your real expense, and if you are vaping low levels, a 250-500ml bottle of 10% strength will mix gallons of e-liquid. As for hobbies to do cheap... the sky is the limit... what are some things YOU like to do, or ever thought of doing? Painting, photography, jogging, small-engine-repair, flower arranging, building computers....

You're going through 30 ml in two days? Holy cow! Even with me chain vaping, I only go through maybe two tanks in a day? But then I don't subohm and that makes a difference in how much juice you go through. Maybe do some research into vaping and tanks and other accessories as a new hobby? There are wraps to go around your battery that you can change for not very much money...

My female needs a boy to pick on. Here is the current one She's the apple of my eye the love of my life. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice review.

Ordered some RDA decks today hopefully winding my own will vibe me the vape I desire Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Something's wonky and won't let me embed a video here. Go to this link and it will show you how to pull the center pin up. I know it's a different battery, but it's the same concept. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9x95J3ljQ54

Try My Vapor Store, I think I saw it on there.

It's not my fault if you don't like it...

Okay, I can't personally confirm this as it's based on info from another forum and photos of the AIO starter kit and I don't own one, but... Check the bottom of the mod. There should be a little hole right in the center. According to a couple of threads I saw elsewhere this is not a vent hole as one might expect, but is actually the access are to conduct a hard reset on the mod. Use a pen or paperclip to gently check the inside for a tiny button (similar to the reset button on many wifi routers or other electronic devices). Press the button for a few seconds and this should perform a hard reset on the control board inside the mod. That might fix the issue you are experiencing. The area where the button should be (again, according to info from another forum) is depicted in the following pic: @Ednamay be able to confirm whether or not this is an actual reset button access location or a vent hole. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I got my info from another forum where someone described a similar issue and this was their solution.

1/16 bit. Originally I tried drilling the parts that came with the tank, but that didn't work out. I have some 1/4 SS 304 so I put some in the bar feeder, programed the lathe, set the tooling, and made a few parts. That worked out pretty good.

@Edna Nothing more satisfying than giving the gift of vaping and creating another ex-smoker

I may be a little biased because all my mods are Kanger, but I think the Kanger Subvod is a great pen style starter device, the wide range of coils make it capable of pretty much any style of vaping. I have 2 of them which I use almost daily, and they fit nicely in my pocket.

All from the Vapor Talk Store: 2 Kanger Evods with 2 (5) packs of coils to vape it forward. (only $10 each and the coils $3.75 ea.) great way to help family and friends without breaking the bank, One's for a cousin and one will be held in reserve for my next victim 1 Kanger toptank nano to replace the one my neighbor decided he loved too much to give back (yay I FINALLY got him into a mod and tank instead of an ego pen after 6 months of trying) 1 SMOK Baby Beast to find out what all the hoopla is about and I couldn't beat the price in VT's moving sale price...

My AIO only gets rare use but I love it for running to the grocery store or for a night at the movies. The pen styles with built in batteries really don't last that long if they're your main vaping device. I have quite a few different devices and my Kangers and eleaf pico are my favorites. You'll not go wrong with either one. This is a great forum to get advice and it will be as varied as there are users. I have had pretty good luck with the Joyetech AIO and Evic mini V2, but I also don't rely on it as my all day workhorses. The bottom line is getting what will work best for your life style. For my two cents, If you like the built in battery then I'd go with an ipower by eleaf if not, a Kanger subbox is a great workhorse or the pico. Just please educate your self on battery safety and charging as well as the units functions. Oh, also Welcome to Vapor Talk it's a great place with great people

Short of not mentioning that you did charge it fully (which I assume you did) I would happen to guess you have a dead coil and there's a disconnect. My AIO flashes but doesn't hit for two reasons one being the battery is too low to fire the coil or it's low in power. I would try to recharge it until the light goes out and see if it did get a good charge beyond the ability to turn on your light. If that doesn't work try another coil. One last question though...How old is the AIO the batterys only last so long it might have lived a good life and needs replaced and if that's the case I know that the Vaportalk store has them on sale right now and at this price you might grab 2 or even upgrade to the Joyetech twist or mega AIO https://www.vaportalk.com/us/product/joye-ego-aio-starter-kit-black/

It could be that your center pin got pushed down when you were cleaning it. Try pulling it back up a bit. Even the center pins with the spring can get stuck.

Which version of the AIO are you using? Is it the ego starter version (pen style) with the built in battery, the evic box style with built in battery or is it the Pro C with removable 18650 battery?

Never fear, the apparent resident expert is here. (Those are other people's assertions, not mine. I just happen to love the TFV8 line of tanks and have done a lot of research on them). Before I go into detail with an answer to your questions, I'll start by saying that @DWrainbowvaper36basically hit the nail on the head that the biggest differences in coils are airflow. Honestly, the airflow differences between the coils are the biggest differences. Now, the more subtle differences in the coils have to do mostly with the actual number of coils in the assemblies. I'll break it down by the name of each coil for you: T8 coil: This is an octocoil (this means there are 8 distinct coils in the assembly). The T8 is rated at .15 ohms and can handle anywhere from 50W - 110W, depending on how warm or cool you prefer your vapor to be. With the octocoil you are going to get most likely get the most vapor. There is more surface are contacting the cotton and the higher wattage capability of this coil will vaporize more liquid as a result. However, due to the higher wattages necessary to run this coil in an effective range you are going to experience a faster drain on your batteries. T6 coil: This is a sextuple coil (6 distinct coils in the assembly). It is rated at .2 ohms and can handle anywhere from 40W - 130W, depending on how warm or cool you prefer your vapor to be. Contrary to what physics would tell us about the resistance and how many watts should be able to run through it, this coil can actually be run slightly higher than the T8 coils, thus producing a warmer vape. With the sextuple coil you are going to get vapor that is almost but not quite as prevalent as the octocoil. The flavor will be slightly better. The assembly is identical to that of the T8, so airflow is the same. X4 coil: This is a quadruple coil (4 distinct coils in the assembly). It is rated at .15 ohms and can handle anywhere from 30W - 70W, depending on how warm or cool you prefer your vapor. The housing is different than that of the T8/T6 housing and has less restrictive (more) airflow. If you like higher airflow then this particular housing is the way to go. With this coil you will get a nice balance between vapor and flavor, but if you are a mouth to lung vaper then it definitely isn't for you. (In fact, if you are MTL then the baby beast probably isn't for you anyway, although it is possible.) Q2 coil (both options): The Q2 coil is both unique and confusing. It comes is two different resistance variations, a .4 ohm dual coil and a .6 phm dual coil. The .4 ohm version is rated from 40W - 80W while the .6 ohm is rated from 30W - 50W. Both coils use the same housing as the X4 and have a lot of airflow. Flavor is, in my opinion, superior with these coils but vapor production tapers off considerably compared to the T8, T6 and X4. These will also produce a much cooler vape than the others mentioned so far. There are two new drop in coils coming out that will also be confusing, the M8 coils. This is another dual coil that is available in resistances .15 and .25 ohms. I would imagine these are probably going to be rated in the same range as the X4, but I cannot confirm that at this point. From pictures I have seen they also seem to use the same housing as the X4 and Q2 coils, so airflow will be high. RBA deck: The RBA deck for the Baby Beast comes with dual claptons pre-installed. The dual claptons are rated at .35 ohm resistance and can handle anywhere from 30-60 watts. The claptons will help with both vapor and flavor production because of the way they are constructed (more surface area and the "why" a clapton works better than a standard coil is an entirely different topic). After the claptons have run their course you can pretty much build whatever you want on it, which is nice because it means you can use nickel, titanium or stainless steel and use the Baby Beast on a TC mod (unless you have one of the very few mods on the market that will run kanthal in TC mode). To sum all of that information up, higher resistance will mean less vapor, but better flavor. Lower resistance will mean more vapor, but flavor will be sacrificed. However, as someone who has used the Baby Beast extensively, you really can't go wrong as far as flavor is concerned. If you have seen my video review of the tank, they should have called it the "Flavor Beast", because it really packs a punch where flavor is concerned no matter which coil you are using. You will have to make sure the mod you are using will fire down to .15 ohms, but most mods that have been introduced in the last couple of years will fire down that far. With the lower resistance/higher wattage combination you are going to be drawing more amps and the length of time your batteries last before needing to be charged will be less than with the higher resistance/lower wattage. You will also notice much more liquid being consumed with the lower resistance/higher wattage coils than with the higher resistance/lower wattage coils. Add in the fact the Baby Beast is only a 3ml tank and you will be refilling it often, even if you choose to go with the .6 ohm Q2 coil. Hope I cleared things up a little bit and didn't make anything any muddier than it was. Really the choice is going to be based on how much airflow you like, how warm or cool you prefer your vapor and the amount of vapor you want to produce.

here in Bama people pack to go to the grocery store!!! I can not legally own a gun. ..but I can do some real nice work with a good cast iron skillet!!