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I've built several out of scrap wood lying around... My current tank holder is a 5"x5"x1" piece of pine with holes slightly larger than the 510 connection and spaced roughly 1" apart (which makes a grid of 16 holes) for holding tanks on my desk. Here's a few pics of ones I've bothered to take pics of (made from spare closet doorknobs) One I made for a former member here

I've owned a Nemesis, and it wasn't my favorite... spring issues, lock-ring was a pain for sticking, and the top-cap wasn't that great for adjust-ability to remove battery slop or tank/RDA connection if the 510 was shorter... I gave it away. I've not owned a Fuhatten, but used one (in copper), and liked it a lot... IIRC, it had a recessed magnetic button and a really good heft to it. I own a brass Caravela by HCigar, but never used it... I bought it because it matched my other Nautical-themed mechs (Stingray and Windrose), lol, and shortly thereafter I stopped using mechs unless (like you) I'm testing a flavor on my RDA or just feeling nostalgic . For $10 each, why not grab all 4? But if you had to eliminate one, I'd drop the Nemesis from my list...

Subvod mega might take longer, it has a 2300mAh battery instead of 1300mAh battery.

That part I bolded and underlined...that right there should answer your question. If you like it, that's what matters the most. However, as someone else mentioned, what do you mean by number 2 coil? That could either be a .2 ohm coil or it could be a 2.0 ohm coil. Quite a difference and if it was a 2.0 ohm coil at 35 watts, I'd be surprised if you still have any lips left. However, if are vaping with the Pico kit, then the tank you should have is a MELO 3 Mini. There aren't any "2" coils for it. The tank should come with a .3 ohm and a .5 ohm coil. If you're using a different tank, then it's entirely possible you could be running a .2 ohm coil and knowing what tank that is would help us make better, more educated recommendations. In either case, as I mentioned initially, if you like it, that's what matters. You can always gradually bump it up. I recommend bumping up a half watt to a full watt at a time. That will help you key in on your personal "sweet spot", which is different for everybody. When you bump by a half watt or a full want and it go beyond your "sweet spot", back it off that half watt or full watt. As far as the 6mg is concerned, that is quite alright. If you start to feel light headed, then you may want to consider diluting it a bit. Once again, though, if you like it...you get the picture. And welcome to VT @vaporwizard Sorry for the double post, folks. It's @Christopher's fault

Back in 1776 there were some people that revolted because of high taxes, and they were being oppressed. They formed their own country based on freedom, I sometimes wonder what happened to that country. History sometimes repeats itself.

I remember more than a few complaints about the switch and a lot of modifying talk on the Nemesis back a couple years ago. Never owned one but it was a hot topic years ago.

I have 4 other mech mods already. All with recessed buttons. A couple have magnetic switches, a couple have springs. I'm not looking at these four as "daily drivers". I don't even use my current mechs daily. They are a "sit in the mancave while I drink beer and watch football" type of thing for me. I also use my mechs and RDAs if I'm going to be doing an eliquid review, although even that might be changing because I'm getting much better flavor production from my Baby Beasts. I'm looking at these four more because of the price and to have additional options available than anything, but having backups of anything, including mods, doesn't ever hurt.

I had the Nemesis a few years ago..I did not like the locking ring... to stand it up I had to lock it..to vape I had to unlock it..I mean it was like unlock,. puff puff, lock, unlock puff puff, lock etc, etc.. One time it was smoking all by itself standing upright on the table...it got very hot and burnt my hand grabbing it ..happened because I forgot to screw down that stupid little locking ring..I never used it again and tossed it in the garbage..I also didn't like the crunchy spring switch.. My mech mods I still vape today have recessed buttons, (no locking rings needed) and magnetic switches... favorite is the XXIX from Bay City Vapor.. Good luck with your choices and vape safe.. Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk

@Edna as you can see on the 3rd picture I posted... it is just a large number of 3/8" holes in the block... As long as the 510 connection can sit below the surface (and not snag in a hole that is too tight), the tank will be held just fine. I even move that block around from time to time (and when cleaning the desk/shelf) and unless I tilt it WAY over, the tanks don't fall off of it. Of course, the smaller 14mm to 18mm tanks may wobble a bit as you move it around... but the larger 22+mm tanks are rock-solid using only the 510 connection as an anchor.

I bought one when they first came out, horrible,it eats coils for breakfast,it leaks,no matter what juice you have in it and the usb port just dropped out one day!*resist the urge not worth it*

For smaller tanks (with or without 510 connection), is used a 5/8" wood bit, and a 1" wood bit for the larger tanks... I think... but just use a bit that is slightly larger than the tank diameter... but for the tanks with 510 connections, I just used a standard 3/8" bit to drill the hole to a specific depth (marked with tape on the bit). On softer wood, tape over the wood will prevent chipping... harder woods (Oak), chipping is not an issue, usually.

@EdnaI just tried my smok beast in it and it fits perfectly my smaller tanks are loose but they dont wiggle the 510 hole holds tyhem nice

@Edna I didnt but it couldnt hurt too do so

@Edna I used a 1in wood boring drill(the pointy flat ones) then for center I used a 9/32 regular drill bit

I made a few of these in different sizes out of some old teak I had lying around

Back in the late 80's, my cousin worked for one of the tobacco companies in a processing/packaging facility (doing their books)... she told me it cost 37 CENTS to make a pack of premium cigarettes (labor, packaging, paper, ingredients, and shipping... including factoring in utilities too), and at that time a pack was $1.50-$1.75 in KY. Today, it probably costs twice that... and a pack of "generics" is $4 here... and $12 in NYC? Last time I was in CA, I stopped by a smoke shop to check out their cigar selection (curiosity mostly) and was shocked at the prices! Things I would pay $4-6 for in KY were $14-20... all because of TAXES. Higher and higher taxes on tobacco is one of the main reasons the vaping has become popular, aside from being successful as a secession aid...

Your battery is running low. Dont forget to clean the charger too. Those subvods take a long time to charge fully. Like 3 - 5 hours

They usually last longer than 3 months, do you charge it until the light on the bottom turns green? there has been reports of the Subvod battery not lasting very long.

Sounds like a low battery warning, have you tried cleaning the connection? take the tank off and clean the connection with a Q-tip, see if that helps, or you might have gotten juice in the switch. You can also plug it in and use it as a pass through.

Which coil are you using? If you are using the .15 coil it might be your resistance might be dropping below the .10 ohm cutoff point.

Yep. Quite proud of my "vaping age" as a matter of fact.

I remember those, refills for cigalikes were sold in them. Still have a few hanging around, use them for drip tip covers a KPT tanks.

Back in the day... a loooong time ago (in vaping years), there were things called "cartomizers" that had these on the ends. These cartomizers were little metal cylinders with a coil on the bottom, usually a small piece of metal as a "bridge" over the top of that, and filler material wrapped around it to hold the eliquid. People would sometimes fill the little cap you're interested in with eliquid then put the cartomizer into it upside down to draw up the liquid. They were also frequently called "condoms." Some of the older tanks also came with these on the drip tips (if I remember correctly, the original Kanger Pro Tank had these). Wow. Good times.

If I remember right you said your brother is a machinist, tooling such as end mills, small boring bars, and similar items come in tubes with plastic caps on the ends. They make very good drip tip covers. Talk to your brother about getting some for you, normally they get thrown away. I use them for drip tip covers.

I use acrylic make up organizers. The lip stick holder part holds tanks and pen-style batteries very well and I never have to worry that the acrylic will short anything out. There are so many different styles for different applications... and the ones with drawers are prefect to hold all kinds of drip tips.

This Christmas we should decorate the trees with politicians, the whole country would get a Christmas present that way.