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Like ive said.. ive asked alot of people and they have no clue about the mod or the RDA. but its okay though it works like a charm Thank you all for the help!!!!

That could be any number of mechs. Except for the fact mine is copper, it looks just like my Arthas. I'm going to assume there is no information on the firing button about the manufacturer. If there is, take a pic of the firing button and one of us may be able to track down info. The atty looks familiar, just can't positively id it yet. In the meantime, take the atty off of the mech and look at the bottom. Most manufacturers put some sort of id markings on the bottom of the deck.

@smacksy it was under $40 I got it on amazon

Make sure you do your research if you don't currently use an RDA and have only had minimal experience with them. Safety first. Good batteries, an ohm meter and some basic knowledge of Ohm's Law are all musts when using RDA's, even if those RDA's are on regulated mods the coils are pre-made coils. Blatant disregard for vaping safety is most likely the leading cause of people ending up on the news after they have a battery go boom in their mod, in their pocket, in their hand bag or in their backpack. There are many of us around here who are more than happy to chime in and talk you through things. Of course, if you DO have experience with RDA's (beyond simply trying a friends), then hopefully you have already done your research and know the safety aspects.

I protest! No Tomfoolery and no Canoodling I can understand. No Hanky Panky...well...I'll deal with that. But Shenanigans MUST be allowed!!

Hey guys, So the other day I got this email from Uwell about Ceramic coils. What do you guys think? The Truth and Science behind Ceramic Coils Customers have asked why Uwell doesn’t makes ceramic coils since the ceramic coil has a longer life compared with the Crown 2 coil and some ceramic coils even have better taste. The article followed contains some researches and analysis of how ceramic coils affect vapers’ health and it may help to answer the question. Uwell realizes the short life of the Crown 2 coil and we are developing coils to taste better and last longer. The latest version has increased life time and is now on the market. The good news is that there is positive response. Figure 1 shows three kinds of ceramic coils on the market (#1, #2, and #3 stands for three different brands, respectively). For #1, there is a layer of cotton between the ceramic and the coil. This design is lower in strength and makes the ceramic fragile. For example, the ceramic coil breaks apart when pinched and tiny powders fall off and stick onto the cotton. It is also hard to distinguish the cotton and the ceramic material since they are both white. In the case of #2 and #3, the ceramic material and the coil are heated up together to be made into one piece. However, the melting point of the coil is lower than the ceramic material so this causes the surface of the coil to be loose and porous. This makes the coil have low durability, is fragile, and has powders falling off. Figure 2 shows partial end surface microstructure of #1, #2, and #3. All three ceramic coils appear translucent with a glasslike exterior. Visible light can be reflected and scattered by pores inside the ceramic material. This is what makes it a translucent surface. The ceramic coil is made from silica similar to glass. Therefore, the ceramic coil appears as a glasslike surface. Many impurities can be seen at a magnification of 100X from a microscope and they appear as black spots. The glasslike particles are not uniform and appear to be uneven and chaotic. The tiny glass pieces have sharp surfaces that can scratch the trachea and alveoli when used. The black spots could also be unrefined toxic material that could have impurities. Figure 3 shows partial cross section surface microstructure of #1, #2 and #3. After breaking the material for the cross section, we can see glasslike particles with sharp surfaces. The glasslike particles are clearly visible at the magnification of 100X. Figure 4 shows partial edge surface microstructure of #1, #2, and #3. Some parts have defects and some parts have sharp edges. This comes from two steps in making the ceramic coil. In the first step, the friction causes defects and coarse edges when samples are removed from the mold. In the second step, the surface of the ceramic coil is loose from the friction between the ceramic powders and the mold. The loose powders cannot be heated up and molded onto a dense body. The ceramic powders also stick to the surface of the ceramic coil. This process also makes the ceramic powders fall off easily. Figure 5 shows ceramic powders falling off microstructure #1, #2, and #3. When the ceramic powder is touched, the powder sticks onto that surface. All these powders are glasslike pieces with sharp edges mentioned above in the optical microscope. The size of the ceramic powder is distributed between 30120 micrometers which is too tiny to be seen by the human eye. Figure 6 shows the microscope image on the contact segment between ceramic and coil. Number #1 does not compare with others since its coil does not come in contact with the ceramic material. Many ceramic powders gather at the position near coil. The first reason is that the coil cannot be easily compressed into a ceramic material when the ceramic material is molded. This is because the cross section of the coil is circular. The second reason is that powders are produced after taking the coil off of the mold. It is impossible to clean the powders stuck to the inner surface of the ceramic coil. There are ceramic powders on the inside of all ceramic coils on the market. Finally, ceramic coils may cause death. Making the ceramic material The ceramic coil is made from inorganic porous ceramic material. There are tiny pores inside the ceramic material that cannot be seen. Pores play an important role in wicking. In order to produce a porous ceramic material, raw materials such as silica powders and poreforming materials like starch or other organic polymers are needed. Then they are mixed and put into a mold with high pressure. Samples are obtained with a fixed shape. The samples are put into a furnace and set to a high temperature. Pores are formed while the poreforming agent combusts and escapes. This kind of pore plays an important role by introducing eliquid into your vape. However, to make enough pores, the temperature to stick the materials together is lower which causes low tensile and compressive strength. The powders fall off or crack when the ceramic coil is touched or shaken. All the powders can be introduced into the lung by air which is dangerous (the speed of air can reach 223mph when we are vaping). Vaping Ceramic coils will absorb more eliquid. Eliquid is vaporized and evaporated when the coil is working. High pressure from the vapor will expand and damage the structure of the porous ceramic material. Loose powders will fall off and go into the lung. Causing death Silicosis is a form of occupational lung disease caused by inhalation of crystalline silica dust. Symptoms are inflammation and scarring in the form of nodular lesions in the upper lobes of the lungs. This is a type of pneumoconiosis. Silicosis can be complicated by the development of severe scarring, where small nodules gradually merge together, reaching a size of 1cm or greater. Progressive massive fibrosis is associated with more severe symptoms and respiratory impairment. Silicosis can also be complicated by other lung diseases such tuberculosis, nontuberculous mycobacterial infection, and fungal infection, certain autoimmune diseases, and lung cancer ("Silicosis." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 29 Sept. 2016.)(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis). In conclusion, ceramic coils are not healthy. First, a ceramic coil is made from silica similar to glass. Second, ceramic powders or glasslike pieces easily fall off. Finally, silica powders may cause death. Uwell is working hard to develop a better ceramic coil. However, it is impossible to continue with current technology. Therefore, Uwell will put making a ceramic coil on hold. Uwell wants to tell customers the truth. Uwell will never produce a product that causes death. Would you buy a coil that lasts longer at the cost of your life?

yea I've got a few clients out that way and they've all closed shop and boarded up the windows. Hopefully it doesn't hit too hard.

Alldridge gardens,hoover,al.I have basically taken over a bench there,lol gorgeous trails,my bench overlooks a huge pond,with tons of dancing dragonflies, turtles,birds of all kinds and it's semi-wooded with beautiful flowers everywhere,and vape friendly too!I love it there, I go there to reflect.

I have an original Twisted Messes 2, it does come in a knock off version. I learned to build with this one and it was easy. Nice big work area and it will take all kinds of builds. It is a pricey RDA, knock off is cheaper and just as good from what I heard. I got mine through a connection at a very, very good price. I would buy another. http://twistedmesses.com/product/black-twisted-messes-rda2-tmsquared/

I thought so its on my list to get

Oh wow. I don't think I've ever seen a mod like that that appears to have a concave type fire button..thx for the pic .. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

I assume the fire button is on the bottom..can you post a pic of it? Might be able to identify the mod..just a thought Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Is that a mech? If so who makes it? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

I like that v2 version of the kit with the larger diameter jig options, the cutouts for batteries and the space for a small spool of wire. I have the v1 version, which is still pretty nice. I've been holding off on getting a v2 until I go to ECC this year. I got my v1 coil kit at ECC last year for $20 so I'm hoping I'll be able to get a v2 for that this year.

How much did that kit set you back? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

I bought the Coil Master kit It comes with everything needed to build your own coils

There are several basic ohm meters out there that are more than adequate. Off the top of my head: Coil Master and Eleaf come to mind. Coil Master makes a basic ohm meter and they also make the more advanced 521 Tab, which will also fire your coils for you to test while you are building them. This one in the Vapor Talk store is identical to the basic Coil Master ohm meter. I'm not sure if it's made by CM or if they are manufactured and then sold under multiple names, but it's more than adequate for learning the ins and outs of building coils.

As far as ohmmeters go I would suggest buying a quality one..That said I paid about $30 for this one at my local B&M about 2 yrs ago and it's still very accurate..I forgot the name brand, sorry Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

What Mod are you using with your RDA

I have lots of experience with RDA's but the only thing I don't know how to do is make coils and what coils are good. On the RDA i have now (honestly not sure what it is) i have 4 wrap 22 GA. I need to get me an ohm reader though. Any tips on which one to get? Thank you smacksy. I will look into this RDA.

Welcome to VT Sorry I don't know much about the derringer but the Dark Horse seen here has been excellent..paid less than $20 for it and a year later it still vapes great ..in fact it's the only RDA I use today .. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Almost any Mini RDA is going to give you great taste because of the shortened height of the cap. That being said there are going to be a couple of things that come into play with the recommendations you are going to receive: 1 - "Inexpensive" is subjective. What is inexpensive to me may not be what you consider inexpensive or vice versa. 2 - "Great taste performance" is also subjective. What one person may think is great may only be so-so at best to the next person. But again, almost any mini is going to give you a good flavor with the right build. 3 - Some people may make recommendations purely based on their preferred post design - 2, 3 or 4. The number of posts may ultimately play a role in which atty you go for as well. If you are looking for a mini RDA that will give you the mechanical performance of something like the Derringer or Stro while providing great flavor, I would recommend taking a look at the following: Freakshow mini, REMatty or Royal Hunter (both the regular and the mini on the RH - the Stro is very similar to the RH full size). The Freakshow and REMatty are both 3 post, the RH and RH mini are both 4 post. All of them are under the $40 price range for authentics. If you shop around, you can probably find all of them for under $30.

Welcome aboard, I ventured into RDA's with a mutation Xv4 It wasnt expensive at all. Its small but I dont know if its considered a mini rda

This is the one I am using. I use the one that @Adversarious1 uses also. I can't tell a lot of difference, but for some reason I really like the Nichrome/Kanthal combination. For what it is worth, I have been running a standard 26 GA 316SS and it isn't a lot different. I do think the Clapton has more flavor, but the quick heat up time (standard wire heats much quicker because the mass of the Clapton is so much more it takes more time to heat)

I thought this might be useful as I had to use it today Wire cross sectional area calculation The n gauge wire's cross sercional area An in square millimeters (mm2) is equal to pi divided by 4 times the square wire diameter d in millimeters (mm): An (mm2) = (π/4)×dn2 SWG to mm conversion chart SWG # Diameter (mm) Area (mm2) 7/0 12.700 126.6769 6/0 11.786 109.0921 5/0 10.973 94.5638 4/0 10.160 81.0732 3/0 9.449 70.1202 2/0 8.839 61.3643 0 8.230 53.1921 1 7.620 45.6037 2 7.010 38.5989 3 6.401 32.1780 4 5.893 27.2730 5 5.385 22.7735 6 4.877 18.6793 7 4.470 15.6958 8 4.064 12.9717 9 3.658 10.5071 10 3.251 8.3019 11 2.946 6.8183 12 2.642 5.4805 13 2.337 4.2888 14 2.032 3.2429 15 1.829 2.6268 16 1.626 2.0755 17 1.422 1.5890 18 1.219 1.1675 19 1.016 0.8107 20 0.914 0.6567 21 0.813 0.5189 22 0.711 0.3973 23 0.610 0.2919 24 0.559 0.2452 25 0.5080 0.2027 26 0.4572 0.1642 27 0.4166 0.1363 28 0.3759 0.1110 29 0.3454 0.0937 30 0.3150 0.0779 31 0.2946 0.0682 32 0.2743 0.0591 33 0.2540 0.0507 34 0.2337 0.0429 35 0.2134 0.0358 36 0.1930 0.0293 37 0.1727 0.0234 38 0.1524 0.0182 39 0.1321 0.0137 40 0.1219 0.0117 41 0.1118 0.0098 42 0.1016 0.0081 43 0.0914 0.0066 44 0.0813 0.0052 45 0.0711 0.0040 46 0.0610 0.0029 47 0.0508 0.0020 48 0.0406 0.0013 49 0.0305 0.0007 50 0.0254 0.0005

When vaping up to 5 mods in rotation I hate it when I forget what flavor was in what tank when refilling, lol Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

The ProTank 1 is such a simple device. The only reasons for no airflow, coil working or not are: 1. Blocking airvents at base with fingers or such. 2. Plugged airvents At base 3. Plugged chimney or drip tip 4. Plugged coil