Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/03/2016 in all areas

  1. Spice queen

    Need some help please

    Ok made a mistake. It was an Eleaf 30 and it is the one that died. The new TC60W is what a bought to replace it. I used the EC 0.3ohm that was pre installed with the Melo 2. It seems so harsh and not what I'm used to. I will watch the videos you suggested and see what I can learn from them. This is just so different than what I am used to and seems to be so complicated. I do not understand anything about the temp control stuff. You guys are awesome. Thank you so much. Just switched to my nautilus mini and lowered down to 7 worked my way up to 11 and it's perfect. Who wants a Melo 2? I have no use for it.
    2 points
  2. Earthling789

    Need some help please

    I'll chime in a little help here... As everyone said earlier, the simple solution is to use your Nautilus Mini on the new mod, switch it to Wattage-mode, and use somewhere between 9-12W, which is probably what you were using on the old iStick 30W? This is the simplest solution and you'll be happily vaping the same as you were before the iStick 30 died. There's no need to sub-ohm or use TC-mode unless you want to, which leads me to this... When you drop resistance of your coil... you also have to lower your Nicotine strength by roughly the same ratio. For example, if you were using a 1.8 Ohm coil and 8mg Nic strength, and want to use a 0.8-1.0 ohm coil... you'd want to drop your Nicotine down to 4 or 5mg. Dropping from 1.8 Ohms down to 0.3 Ohms is a major drop... (over 80%) so you'd want to drop your Nicotine level down to 1 or 2mg to prevent harshness and to maintain your "normal" Nicotine dose-level (Nicotine absorbs faster into the body as it gets hotter). You'll also want to increase your VG ratio to 30/70 PG/VG as a good ballpark for sub-ohm vaping.
    2 points
  3. Edna

    Griffin Build Question

    Yes, I did and they were right on the money. I fiddled with them to get rid of the hot spots and they're working fine. I switched the tank to a different mod and it came out at 2.1 I think it was because my istick's battery was low. It tastes SOOOOO good now
    2 points
  4. Also, which Aspire mini were you using and what was your nicotine level (presuming you are vaping something other than 0 nic eliquids)? If you were using the Aspire Nautilus Mini (I believe that was the only "mini" Aspire tank available a year ago, but I could be wrong) you were likely using coils that were 1.6 ohm or 1.8 ohm. Dropping to a .3 ohm coil is a whole different world. Aside from the fact that sub ohm vaping (vaping with a coil resistance less than 1 ohm) isn't necessarily for everybody, a higher nicotine content will definitely contribute to harshness.
    2 points
  5. Anytime Edna[emoji4] Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    2 points
  6. Right now I'm running a .5 SS coil in a RBA in a subtank mini in watts. The reason I'm running watts instead of TC is I only get 1 tank per coil with the coffee flavored juice in it when in TC, in watts I get 3 tanks per coil. Other juices in TC seem to last weeks between coil changes. I have to agree about Clapton coils, I wasn't impressed with them either.
    1 point
  7. Well since a short or near short equates to heat, I'd say that's how it's done. No doubt Claptons take a lot of juice to light up. One thing I've noticed is that claptons require more amps even given the same resistance as a standard subohm coil. Not sure why that is but a .3 kanthal wind and a .3 Clapton behave differently. Claptons get hot. I've tried them in my youde zephyrus and they heat that sucker up big time with a .5 coil and 40w. The tank gets literally almost too hot to handle.
    1 point
  8. Dry burning a Clapton coil might get it hot enough, I just ordered a 160w Dripbox it comes with dual claptons installed, now I'm thinking about ripping them out and putting in a couple of other coils.
    1 point
  9. Yup take out the510c center pin then unscrew deck them unscrew the pin that holds it I might of got it too hot lol It looks like a type of plastic
    1 point
  10. I've had an iStick since before Christmas, and it's worked beautifully with every tank or RTA I've put on it... with the exception of over-tightening a KPT3-mini on the adapter, causing a short (my fault, I know). Now, my newest iStick is starting to do weird things, in that I can attach any tank, and it will show the resistance (usually very accurately), and after I take a hit or two, I get a burnt taste... look down at the read-out, and suddenly the resistance is reading some rediculious Ohm reading... like 4.9 or 3.5. Once it reads the resistance incorrectly, huge voltage is applied to reach the Wattage I have set, which means I'm burning wicks (and my juice). I've had to re-wick my RTA twice in one day, and so far I've toasted a couple of Kanger and an Aspire coil... Fortunately, I've not toasted any juice (yet). If I set it down and wait a minute or two, press the button, and the resistance is correct again... WTH? I have re-seated attys, and even if they are fully seated, this occurs randomly. I've tapped the fire-button and watched the resistance change in the window (wild fluctuations).... wait a moment, tap again, and it will read correctly... I have tweaked/lifted the center pin, and it still occurs randomly, even right after adjusting the pin, installing a tank, and not touching anything.... a couple dozen hits are fine, then boom... excessive Voltage applied because it reads the resistance incorrectly (always too high)... I've tried using VV mode, and that has stopped the over-voltage issue, but it still reads the attty incorrectly at random times... and if it reads the atty at max Ohms, the Wattage will be below the threshold, causing it to not fire at all... so that's not helping much either... although it has stopped the burning of wicks Do I have a defective iStick, or what? Does anyone else notice this issue?
    1 point
  11. Thanks for the heads up. This the auto linking system acting up. There are trigger keywords on the forum that link to the VT store. For some reason when quoting, the markup language is coming through. I'll look into this and see if I can't get it resolved
    1 point
  12. Edna

    Need some help please

    I'm SO glad we could help out There are a lot of awesome people on this forum that have helped me tremendously too. Happy vaping, Edna
    1 point
  13. @smacksy Herakles rta 2
    1 point
  14. How to Use Switch display mode: Keep pressing upside and downside of the adjustment button simultaneously for two seconds when the device is off, the screen display will rotate 180 degrees. You can view the screen from two different angles through this operation. Switch among VW /TC-Ni/TC-Ti modes: Long press the menu button to switch modes. 1) In VW Mode: Adjust wattage: In VW mode, the output wattage can be adjusted from 1W to 60W by pressing upside or downside of the adjustment button, upside to increase and downside to decrease. Long press upside or downside of the adjustment button can rapidly increase or decrease the wattage level. These are the directions to set it as earthlink suggested
    1 point
  15. Ugg, did that last night... 30-min away from the house... dead battery... back-up mod also had about 20-min left in it... YES, thankfully, I have a U20 in the console to charge them up while we spent an hour plus in the restaurant My fiance had just put a fresh battery in hers, and didn't bring her backup... and she wasn't about to share, lol
    1 point
  16. Jason could probably explain it better than me, but TC is based on TCR (temperature coefficient of resistance). Metal changes resistance when heated, some change more than others. TC measures the amount of resistance change, and determines the temperature based on how much the resistance changes. TC assumes the coil resistance when locked in as being 68f. As an example at 392f Ni200 increases resistance 108%, Ti 66%, SS316 17%, NiCr 2%, and kanthal .04%. As you can see Kanthal doesn't change enough for it to be used for TC, and NiCr (Nichrome) changes a very small amount, but some mods can measure it. That is why it is so important to chose the correct mode when using TC. The newer mods are more sensitive to resistance changes than last years mods. I have read that the Hohm Slice can detect changes in Kanthal, but don't know for sure. I have used Kanger mods with the NiCr (Nichrome) TC setting, and it does work.
    1 point
  17. Edna

    Need some help please

    No it wasn't a waste of money at all..you just need to use your nautilus mini on it instead of the melo 2 which is a sub ohm tank. You're fine Lets start over. Use your Nautilus mini tank and put it on the 60. Drop your watts down to around 9.0 and slowly work up until you find the correct setting for you. @Tam can probably help you more on this. I know she uses a coil similar to yours on her Aspire Triton V2 tanks I think she sets it around 9.7 but I'm sure you might have a different setting since no one vapes exactly the same. Don't give up! we'll get it figured out No it wasn't a waste of money at all..you just need to use your nautilus mini on it instead of the melo 2 which is a sub ohm tank. You're fine Lets start over. Use your Nautilus mini tank and put it on the 60. Drop your watts down to around 9.0 and slowly work up until you find the correct setting for you. @Tam can probably help you more on this. I know she uses a coil similar to yours on her Aspire Triton V2 tanks I think she sets it around 9.7 but I'm sure you might have a different setting since no one vapes exactly the same. Don't give up! we'll get it figured out The Triton V2 tank would work for you too I believe. You might read this thread there's a few people who vape MTL and with different tanks that might work for you. Tank suggestions I vape sub ohm so I'm not that versed in these but try the Nautilus about 9w until more folks chime in
    1 point
  18. willmad85

    What's up!?

    love it! Wasn't super stoked as i wanted my broken griffin 25 back but i wouldnt switch it in for anything else for an rta its awesome! Sent from my SM-G928W8 using The Vapor Talk mobile app
    1 point
  19. Love me some Claptons, although they are a PITA to make until you get used to them. I haven't used any prebuilt Claptons because I trust myself more than I trust buying prebuilt. Case in point, those two coils were either a lot closer to .5 ohms each (most likely just over) or one coil was higher than the other, which can be bad. Just out of curiosity @Edna, did you check each coil individually on a meter before vaping them?
    1 point
  20. Adversarious1

    What's up!?

    Welcome to VT. How do you like that Limitless RTA? Been thinking about pulling the trigger on one simply because I like the way it looks.
    1 point
  21. Edna

    Need some help please

    In your Aspire tank what coil were you using? Maybe if we know that, we can help you more also, what juice are you using and what's the pg/vg ratio? If you're using the 0.3 coil with a high pg ratio juice it's going to be harsh. That coil likes a higher vg ratio..I learned that one the hard way I have an eleaf 60 and I love it. There is a learning curve though. I hope we can help you out because it's a great mod/tank kit.
    1 point
  22. Spice queen

    Need some help please

    Ok made a mistake. It was an Eleaf 30 and it is the one that died. The new TC60W is what a bought to replace it. I used the EC 0.3ohm that was pre installed with the Melo 2. It seems so harsh and not what I'm used to. I will watch the videos you suggested and see what I can learn from them. This is just so different than what I am used to and seems to be so complicated. I do not understand anything about the temp control stuff.
    1 point
  23. I threw in (2) 0.4ohm prebuilt fused clapton coils. They came out to 0.27ohms and I like it much better. Now just to get the flavor dialed in and I'll be a happy camper. Thanks @smacksy
    1 point
  24. Edna

    Need some help please

    Hi and welcome to VT Spice Queen! The drip tip is removable and can be replaced with one you like better that's easy. You know you can use the tank that you used on the istick 40 on the 60. Then you can just use the same settings (or close) because just like with the 40 the more freshly charged the battery the stronger it is, as the power in the battery goes down you might have to tweek it a bit. The operation of the istick 60 is just like the 40 for the most part. It just has more options. Your Eleaf 60 and melo 2 kit came with 3 EC coil heads. The one with the white o-ring is 0.3ohms and a mildly warm vape you can use it between 25-60W and is for wattage mode. (it's the one that comes pre-installed) The coils with the blue TC-NI 0.15ohm and red o-rings are for TC-TI 0.5 ohm these are for temperature control. (60W max on both) You might want to watch this: Eleaf 60W Video He breaks it down quite well. Or maybe this one: by rip tripper
    1 point
  25. Got tracking for my Boss 3000 [emoji4] My Reign Has Just Begun
    1 point
  26. Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the Cupti, I figured it would have the same chipset as the 75w Kbox, I use 2 of them in my daily rotation, and they work great for me. Maybe they use a poorly designed chipset, or maybe you got a bad one, I guess we will never know for sure. I don't think it was user error on your part, seems you got a bad one.
    1 point
  27. smacksy

    Griffin Build Question

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk No worries about dual coils..If you can wrap a single coil and install it you won't have any problems with duals.. Just keep in mind resistance splits with duals..in other words say a single coil reads 0.6 ohms dual coils would read 0.3 ohms..other than that dual coils are easy-peasy..and double your vaping pleasure Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines