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And that is "manufacturing" according to the FDA's new definition of the word. The last time I checked, changing spark plugs or oil in a car with an identical set of spark plugs or an identical blend of oil was considered maintenance. The same should hold true for retailers. If a person is physically or mentally incapable of changing out the 1.5 ohm coil in their Subtank Mini with a coil that is identical in every way and was physically manufactured by a different company, (i.e. another 1.5 ohm coil from Kangertech), or that person is physically or mentally incapable of opening their tank to fill it with their favorite liquid (from a bottle they already own), then that should be considered maintenance, not manufacturing. Some of these FDA regs make sense on the surface (excluding the extremely high fees associated with the PMTA process), but some of these regs are, in my opinion, a gross misuse of power. Just because someone says you are permitted to do something doesn't mean you should. And just because you do something doesn't mean it's the right thing to do. Just because the FDA says changing a coil or filling a tank for a customer is "manufacturing" does not make it "manufacturing". Just my 2 cents. I'll get off my soapbox now. It's just that these ridiculous regs, along with all the misleading information, partial information or, (in some cases) full on lies, have me rather ticked off.

Got it @90w liking it so far:)

V/T Mail Thanks Christopher

I struggled with with this quite a while. I was originally taught to calculate everything like a mechanical mod, but it didn't make sense. How could a battery at 4.2 - 3.5 Volts supply 6+ Volts to the coil. It took an "old timer", from another board, quite a few posts to get it beat into my thick skull...lol The battery can't supply a constant voltage, but it will supply a constant power (watts). You are exactly correct, as voltage drops, your Amps go up. The difference at 75 watts goes from 19.84A with a fully charged battery (4.2V) to 23.81A with a battery at 3.5V. I am like you, I really enjoy the nerd discussions. Poor @Edna gets caught up in my OCD, Nerd Rant when she is just asking about how to extend battery life...lol Bottom line for you @Edna is that if you are using a regulated mod and running 25 - 30 watts, a HG2 or Samsung 30Q batteries would be a great investment for you. You will notice a difference. I run a NEBOX at 25 watts. With the HE2/HE4 batteries, I change them before I leave work (5:00) but with the HG2 or 30Q, I normally change them late in the evening around 9:00 - 10:00. I personally keep 6 (or more) charged at one time, but I never know when I am going to have to jump and run out of town for work.

The more the merrier Bebop, as to the problem with the Kbox nano, sometimes Kangers are weird, sometimes once a coil gets locked in it stays there until you remove the tank and hold the fire button until the ohms starts to flash. at least that's been my fix. Also make sure the center pin on the mod is clean, and free of juice, or you might get a bad reading.

@spydre PMTA's are required for the manufacturers only. Retailers are not required to file PMTA's unless they are mixing their own juices in-house or building mods/tanks/RBAs/RTAs/coils/etc. (in other words... manufacturing something).

I just use TFA's regular sweetener. 3% mostly for the fruity mixes. I don't want a "candy" taste to my juices. If you prefer sweeter, try 5%.

My 100 Kanger OCC 1.2 Ohm Horizontal coils (with white o-rings) arrived today from SlowTech...er... Fasttech... The boxes were apparently stepped on or hit by a truck or two along the route from China, but the coils appear to be undamaged. Five out of 20 of the blister-cards don't appear to have "Kangertech" imprinted on them, so they may be clones? The rest are properly marked/imprinted. At 68-cents a coil (and arrival in under 8-weeks from placing the order)... I'm not going to complain

And I thought that was in my pocket, you are better than I thought you were.

I got your ID right here

Now I see what you are talking about, you are referring to the drain on the battery not what goes to the coil. But doesn't that change depending on whether the battery is fully charged or almost drained. the wattage stays the same but not the amps when the battery gets low. it seems to me when the voltage drops more amps are needed. Unless a constant voltage is supplied to the board. A charged battery runs 4 - 4.2V most of the batteries I have will go down to 3.5V before needing a charge that's a .7V difference.

Hi Chris Maybe something like these on RTA's/RBA's and subohm.. ...just a thought Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

If you are using a .5 coil it is not a Ni200 coil, they are .15 ohms you may be running a Nichrome coil or a Clapton coil, which has to be run in power mode. what color grommet is on the coil? red is Nichrome, black is Clapton, pink is SS, and blue is Ni200.

Yep that's a Kbox Nano. What coil are you using? I don't have a Kbox Nano TC, but I do have a lot of Kanger TC mods. I run between 350f and 380f depending on the juice. I hope that helps.

It's not letting me upload a picture . It's saying my file is too big

Hi all. Been a vapor for the past 3 1/3 years. just recently got into DIY (Like 3 months ago) I've had a few successes so far. feel free to message me anytime, I promise not to bite

Agree with everything FXRich said, but wanted to add my own 2 cents... It sounds like you only have 2 batteries. I would suggest buying at least 4 more. You never know when you're really going to need those back-ups. When you buy them, make sure you mark them. Personally I would dedicate 2 batteries to each of the mods you have in rotation (mark them 1A/1B, 2A/2B or Eleaf 60wA/Eleaf 60wB and PicoA/PicoB or in some manner that works for you).

Indeed!

Well noted! Thanks Chris for your efforts and time! BTW, f**k the FDA.