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Being able to put it in my pocket is the reason I am always on the lookout for box mods like the Stealth, if it was vv/vw I would end up like Tam is with the istick 50 and have 5 or 10 of them. I can drop it in my work shirt pocket and button the flap, or put it in the back pocket of my pants. I loved my VTR, but it can't be used with many tanks and they are too expensive for what they are to replace it (Plus it's a lot on the heavy side.). I have a Kangside Luxury box, that I got on sale somewhere, went to buy another and apparently they are discontinued. I have a Smoant Knight I haven't yet opened as well. I like the recessed tank, I actually think they are better that the pen types for putting in your pocket. I have pulled apart many eGo-Ts from having them in my pocket, probably from the flexing as I move, and even broke a couple CE4 tanks in my pocket.

Edna, That is a handy calculator, but it doesn't use the correct calculations for a Variable Wattage or Temp Control mod. Ohm's law must be calculated for both sides of the chip inside your mod. (The calculator works fine for a mechanical mod) The simplest way to figure it is: Wattage / Low battery cut off voltage * 1.1 (add 10% for the inefficiency of the board) = Total Amp Draw So if you have a mod (with any ohm coil that it will fire with) and it is set to 60 watts and has a single battery it will pull 18.86 amps because: 60/3.5*1.1=18.87 Most mods cut off around 3.5 Volts. With a board inside them amplifying the voltage to you atomizer the lower your batteries voltage, the more demand it is asking from the battery. On the example above, the board it having to amplify the batteries 4.2 Volts (at full charge) to 5.4 Volts at the atomizer to deliver 60 watts. This requires 15.71 Amps to boost the voltage when the battery is fully charged. When your battery is low (3.5 V) it requires 18.86 Amps. Here is a link to the handiest calculator on the web, but it can be a bit complicated: Steam Engine - Coil Wrapping Steam Engine - Battery Draw - to use this make sure to check the "regulated" check box and "power regulation" check box. I always recommend for beginners to use a pretty good Variable Wattage mod for building. It is just another level of safety. If the mod senses it is shorted, it won't fire, and if the battery gets too low it won't fire. You can still over tax the battery inside it, but it is much harder to do. Have fun with it, building your own coils can be very satisfying. It not only lets you tailor the coil to your vape, but it is also much less expensive once you have your tools/supplies. I rewick my coils every 3 days or so. This gives me a "new coil" vape for pennies.

I bet he's like a kid at Christmas, he won't resist much longer.

I still have five of the original Vision Spinners (1600 mAh) and four of the 900 mAh and still use them from time to time with Kanger Pro Tank mini 3. The Coolfire IV TC100 has an internal battery and TC/watts. I like the small form factor and it's light enough and fits well in my hand. Might be worth a look? And you know me and my love for the iStick 50W, it's a little heavier than the Coolfire 4 but then the 4 has 3300 mAh internal battery versus the 4400 mAh of the iStick.

Eventually you will figure out the best build for you, we all have gone through a learning curve.

@FXRich @Bebop Sorry was running around today and haven't been able to get back online...yes, that's 22g stainless actually I had that one figure out for my Bellus RBA so I went with what I know and I only did a single build and just closed up some of the air holes ... I really like the Avocado and wanted to take it with me so I cheated a bit Good eye....It's 28g Nichrome... you're right I cheated and switched wires sorry I should have noted it